tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-62555085230380882672024-03-07T06:31:33.879+10:30Travels with an Oka<br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br>Portland Roads, Cape Yorkdandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.comBlogger114125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-79360631707338692132015-09-22T18:17:00.003+09:302016-05-14T11:08:44.497+09:30WA trip 2015 - East on the Eyre HighwayWelcome to the final section of this year's trip, across the Nullarbor on the Eyre Highway.<br />
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Some would say that the Eyre Highway is one of the most boring trips you can take in Australia (there are others which are worse), and whilst it is very long being more than 2000km, there are enough daily events to make it interesting.<br />
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We don't stop in roadhouses, either overnight or for supplies, we ensure we have enough to get to the other end (quarantine restrictions not withstanding) and we've done it enough times that we are fairly familiar with its environment.<br />
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Our first trip across the Nullarbor was in 1975, in our old Land Rover we drove from England in, and at the time we though the Eyre Highway was so simple compared with the challenges of international travel in the middle east and Asia.<br />
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It was straight, clean, smooth (mostly, the exception being the Old Eyre Highway section is SA which back then was still limestone gravel) and pretty much free of traffic and people. Luxury travelling. Even today, most of those conditions still exist, with the additional safety net of occasional mobile coverage, more visitor information and frequent scenic stopping places.<br />
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We've done it quite a few time since 1975 but most of our recent annual trips have been on outback tracks which bypass this great strip of bitumen.<br />
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Read on for this years experiences.<br />
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<b>21 Sept</b><br />
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On the road from Norseman east towards Balladonia.<br />
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An early encounter of a large kind:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rather large load we had to get off the road for</td></tr>
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Just off the highway on an unmarked track we discovered Newman Rocks, a huge low hill of solid granite with a rather nice rock pool on its summit. We camped near here:<br />
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<b>22 Sept</b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">And so children, what have we learned from this morning’s experimental breakfast?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"> You <i>can</i> successfully refry frozen cooked sausages.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> It’s very difficult to separate slices of frozen bacon.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> You <i>can’t</i> make potato cakes with Deb.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> Smoke alarms and burnt toast don’t mix.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> Creating baked beans by combining tomato sauce with left over salad beans does <i>not</i> work.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> Complex breakfasts create stress and loads of dirty dishes and the cooktop needs cleaning.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Back to Vita-Brits tomorrow.</span><br />
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Today we did around 250km from Newman Rocks to Caiguna and there was a bend in the road. But only one and here is it, at Balladonia:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">50km straight before the bend and 146km after, the longest straight piece of road in Australia and one of the longest in the world.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSSV29CvYXTvJBi0T9WM4JQv9ajgo5dL4-FX9N4cOSUubpiUuYSu82GPewEJsfZFp7vHArU1f3_lrTfXev2Zk5nuGB_w0vW18-YFUOVKgkdlvDN65D99PPyIrcg1TYjvHEz5Hhpu53B7Y2/s1600/IMG_9385.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSSV29CvYXTvJBi0T9WM4JQv9ajgo5dL4-FX9N4cOSUubpiUuYSu82GPewEJsfZFp7vHArU1f3_lrTfXev2Zk5nuGB_w0vW18-YFUOVKgkdlvDN65D99PPyIrcg1TYjvHEz5Hhpu53B7Y2/s640/IMG_9385.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The truck in the distance is merging into the mirage on Australia's longest section of road, 146km dead straight.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Proof that we had been there. Everyone stops for a photo here.</td></tr>
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At Caiguna there is a rather large blowhole. Completely unguarded and big enough to fall into:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0YCUyC1OESs/VgE9EJM5HuI/AAAAAAAAQDU/0niMKuMOKu0/s1600/IMG_9390.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0YCUyC1OESs/VgE9EJM5HuI/AAAAAAAAQDU/0niMKuMOKu0/s640/IMG_9390.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wind rushes up the blowhole from the coast 30km away at 72kph, but not today or my hat would have been airborne.</td></tr>
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Near the blowhole there were 2 men in a small camper. That was different enough, but these 2 were dressed in fly net hats and playing music on a guitar and banjo. How strange is that?<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">At the end of the longest straight was Caiguna, notable for its Telstra network. As a result I had a number of queries and problems to resolve with the Oka website, most of which I was able to sort out on the side of the road.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">We camped about 20km past Caiguna in the Jilbunya rest area about 1km off the highway in a beautiful bushland setting with flowering shrubs everywhere.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>23 Sept</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">On the way out of the campsite this morning we had a close encounter of the slithery kind:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Nothing much else happened until we stopped for lunch when a distinctively coloured Oka pulled up in front of us. It was Frank in Oka 410 who he says spoke to me for advice before buying an Oka. He painted it in those striking colours and seems to be happy with his purchase, and its cracked windscreen.</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: inherit;">We had a chat for 1/2 hour or so with Frank and his mate Richard driving a ute of some kind. They were heading east but turning inland at Madura while we are also heading east but turning up the old Eyre Highway at Eucla.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Later we passed through Madura Pass, which is where the coast used to be before the sea receded 40km many thousands of years ago, leaving only the cliffs behind.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WFuati_lcNo/VgZy8shCrFI/AAAAAAAAQEY/eUpltoZdn4c/s1600/IMG_9405-9407.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="194" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WFuati_lcNo/VgZy8shCrFI/AAAAAAAAQEY/eUpltoZdn4c/s640/IMG_9405-9407.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">After passing down the pass we spotted an unmarked track leading to the Madura Cave, so on a spur of the moment decision we turned down it to investigate.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">On the way we had an “Attenborough” of wildlife experiences. Several kangaroos bounced madly across the track in front of us, a bustard walked <i>hoitily</i> across the track in front of us, but this large stumpy tail lizard failed to crawl across the track in front of us at all and nearly met a sticky ending. The grumpy tailed lizard just lay there growled at us until <i>she</i> was ready to move on.</span><br />
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Janet even tried negotiating with one of them:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r5XbApdVRt8/VgZ0XE2eH5I/AAAAAAAAQGo/V1y_oF22HFw/s1600/IMG_9532.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r5XbApdVRt8/VgZ0XE2eH5I/AAAAAAAAQGo/V1y_oF22HFw/s640/IMG_9532.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The cave (actually part of a sink hole) was quite interesting, if you call the skeleton of a long dead kangaroo interesting, but more so was the track which continued another 40km towards the Nuytsland Nature Reserve and the south coast.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ppCMbj49CYM/VgZzJh1PXgI/AAAAAAAAQEw/wpDS5Yl2RPU/s1600/IMG_9424.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ppCMbj49CYM/VgZzJh1PXgI/AAAAAAAAQEw/wpDS5Yl2RPU/s640/IMG_9424.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">So on the spur of the moment (a completely different one) we went down that track which got progressively thinner, sandier and more difficult. It took us a couple of hours in 4WD to do the 50km (my navigator had adjusted her glasses) until we reached the dense bushland covering the sand dunes which border the sea.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PvyxoXoHcz8/VgZzaZDlxwI/AAAAAAAAQFI/8C39DxjRwMo/s1600/IMG_9428-9430.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="152" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PvyxoXoHcz8/VgZzaZDlxwI/AAAAAAAAQFI/8C39DxjRwMo/s640/IMG_9428-9430.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">We got tantalisingly close to reaching the elusive coast, we </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">tried </span>but ultimately<span style="font-family: inherit;"> failed, so </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">after a 17 point turn on a narrow track we backtracked to camp in a clearing in the forest like Little Miss Red Riding Hood and will try another track tomorrow.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mNSvPHCmoMw/VgZzJn0ZKOI/AAAAAAAAQEs/qr8Y-zhaRRw/s1600/IMG_9425.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mNSvPHCmoMw/VgZzJn0ZKOI/AAAAAAAAQEs/qr8Y-zhaRRw/s640/IMG_9425.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The </span>rangers<span style="font-family: inherit;"> do keep what few tracks there are in good nick, usin</span>g one of these towed behind a tractor:<span style="font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z9VDetahw4c/VgZzX5cNKcI/AAAAAAAAQFA/XpYVcwmAlxA/s1600/IMG_9441.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z9VDetahw4c/VgZzX5cNKcI/AAAAAAAAQFA/XpYVcwmAlxA/s640/IMG_9441.PNG" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Sadly, also like Little Miss Riding Hood, there is no phone service in this clearing in the forest either. But I did contact the Adelaide Base on our HF Radio and give them our whereabouts, even though the spelling of “Nuytsland” caused some difficulties. Apparently its going to be in the low to mid 20’s for the next 5 days where we are, with sunny days and no rain. Just what we need, I hate mud.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>24 Sept</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The drive back from the Nuytsland Nature Reserve was easier than going down, probably because we knew what to expect and could plan ahead.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">From Madura to Eucla, the road across the former beach is long and straight, with the cliffs always present for 100km.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">At Mundrabilla we filled up with water from the thoughtfully placed tanks alongside the highway in a raging wind strom. We had to position the bucket some way upwind from the receiving container so water actually went in it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">At the Border Village we veered off left onto the old Eyre Highway first travelled by us in 1975 and again in 2013 with Bill and Judy.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">We camped around 20km up the track on a small side track which probably leads to some delightful caves or sink holes.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Janet did some washing which was left out to dry all night.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>25 Sept</b></span><br />
<div style="min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">However, with the overnight condensation, the washing was even wetter </span>this morning <span style="font-family: inherit;">t</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">han last night.</span><br />
<div style="min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">While dropping my tyre pressures for the unsealed road, I noticed that the vicious march flies, which would normally take a chunk out of someone's leg if given the chance, preferred landing on the tyres of the Oka rather than my leg, which I found slightly insulting.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Today was a day of sinkholes, blowholes and Welcome Swallows.</span><br />
<div style="min-height: 14px;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The first event would have been the excellent sinkholes 3km off the track to the south but we stayed there 2 years ago with Bill and Judy (where we also hung washing out to dry in the moonlight) so we didn’t go there again.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The next event was the Burnabie Blowhole. Right by the side of the track, it has a powerful blow as our </span>tea towel<span style="font-family: inherit;"> will attest.</span><br />
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</span> <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PdpCMXyGNi8/VgZzmT08A2I/AAAAAAAAQFY/Z1h8Q0nmQlg/s1600/IMG_9462.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PdpCMXyGNi8/VgZzmT08A2I/AAAAAAAAQFY/Z1h8Q0nmQlg/s640/IMG_9462.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2koljK_N-gs/VgZ9xldPmWI/AAAAAAAAQHc/xIKYmt-jk7I/s1600/IMG_9460.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2koljK_N-gs/VgZ9xldPmWI/AAAAAAAAQHc/xIKYmt-jk7I/s640/IMG_9460.png" width="480" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">10km </span>further<span style="font-family: inherit;"> on we ventured north up The Olde Coach Road, an early inland track from the late 1800's or early 1900's, predating even the Old Eyre Highway, which itself was only developed in the wartime expedients of the early 1940's.</span><br />
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</span> <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q__Vu33kSeA/VgZ9zoD-hUI/AAAAAAAAQHo/mNVPSZseseY/s1600/IMG_9468.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q__Vu33kSeA/VgZ9zoD-hUI/AAAAAAAAQHo/mNVPSZseseY/s640/IMG_9468.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Olde Coach Road heading inland across the Nullarbor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">We were looking for Coompana Rockhole which we didn't find, being below ground level as they tend to be.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The Olde Coach Road i</span>s a very des</span>ol<span style="font-family: inherit;">ate narrow track across a flat "grassy" plain and seems to comprise mostly dry, dusty sand. On the map it leads west across towards Eucla, Mundrabilla and/or Madura, depending on which track you follow. But don’t try that route after rain, you might still be there.</span><br />
<div style="min-height: 14px;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">However, it is a perfect environment for wombats, (although we didn’t see any since they are nocturnal), but their presence is very obvious from all the low volcanoes of sand that they dig out of their burrows, and their scats scattered all around.</span><br />
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</span> <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ydFvn3IadcM/VgZzroCLSbI/AAAAAAAAQFg/oQUezfPWeag/s1600/IMG_9469.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ydFvn3IadcM/VgZzroCLSbI/AAAAAAAAQFg/oQUezfPWeag/s640/IMG_9469.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-upwqs8X-Y6w/VgZ0pU-1XUI/AAAAAAAAQHQ/x7jq1mwhzZc/s1600/Who%2Bare%2Byou%2Bcalling%2Ba%2Bwombat%253F%2BIMG_9466.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-upwqs8X-Y6w/VgZ0pU-1XUI/AAAAAAAAQHQ/x7jq1mwhzZc/s640/Who%2Bare%2Byou%2Bcalling%2Ba%2Bwombat%253F%2BIMG_9466.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Who are you calling a wombat??</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Along the same section of Olde Coach Road, is the nearest we have ever been to a man-made meteorite crater. When and why it was dug remains a complete mystery, or there are some very large wombats </span>roaming<span style="font-family: inherit;"> around.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-family: inherit;">But being within a km or so of the Old Eyre Highway, it's reasonable to assume it was something to do with the original road construction project.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GzgdEB-ByZY/VgZz9ZbTnZI/AAAAAAAAQF4/yC9DU5Qhx30/s1600/IMG_9476-9479.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GzgdEB-ByZY/VgZz9ZbTnZI/AAAAAAAAQF4/yC9DU5Qhx30/s640/IMG_9476-9479.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-family: inherit;">Here it is on Google Earth at this location </span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=6255508523038088267">-31.501764, 129.413430</a>, about 80m long and 50m wide.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HaJi_WLz1xc/Vlv9qFw5GMI/AAAAAAAAQNk/90uBKMge8S8/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-11-30%2Bat%2B5.51.39%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="570" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HaJi_WLz1xc/Vlv9qFw5GMI/AAAAAAAAQNk/90uBKMge8S8/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-11-30%2Bat%2B5.51.39%2BPM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The Twin Caves/Rockhole on the map were elusive, and we failed to find them/it on this trip. Maybe the map has them wrongly located.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Koomooloobooka Caves we also visited with Bill and Judy and took quite a while to locate, but locate them we did in 2013, and it was worth the effort. As a reward, we had lunch there then but bypassed them this time.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">We did discover a sinkhole at 31:28:20 S, 129:41:41 E after the correct track was found, which was not the one marked on the map. The actual start is 366m east of the marked track.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hMP4IV1bssA/VgZz8gxUwmI/AAAAAAAAQFw/qki4UZZApSk/s1600/IMG_9490.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hMP4IV1bssA/VgZz8gxUwmI/AAAAAAAAQFw/qki4UZZApSk/s640/IMG_9490.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rbU67w5TtWs/VgZ-AD6XB2I/AAAAAAAAQHw/ogT4ACaCNJE/s1600/IMG_9491.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rbU67w5TtWs/VgZ-AD6XB2I/AAAAAAAAQHw/ogT4ACaCNJE/s640/IMG_9491.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Next on the agenda was the Koonalda Homestead, home of the headquarters of the Nullarbor National Park housed in the old Koonalda homestead building.</span><br />
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</span> <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8Dd6nfoP2TE/VgZ-IFBlepI/AAAAAAAAQH4/cG69sKnPGQ0/s1600/IMG_9500.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8Dd6nfoP2TE/VgZ-IFBlepI/AAAAAAAAQH4/cG69sKnPGQ0/s640/IMG_9500.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-family: inherit;">There’s no one in residence there and the park signage is distinctly sparce. However a sign asking visitors to "Keep the doors closed to keep out the cats" must be considered a good start.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-family: inherit;">Removing my cynical hat for a moment, the Nullarbor National Park has a great deal to offer visitors when there are a few more signs and some literature on the sites to visit, and the tracks are a bit better maintained. Already there is a camping area near the homestead and a toilet block.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-family: inherit;">In the homestead, Janet waxed lyrical about the kitchen range which she knew about from her early (very early) childhood.</span><br />
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</span> <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-snvfxo_GEtY/VgZ0QETWbWI/AAAAAAAAQGI/Lr8MVgezTqA/s1600/IMG_9499.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-snvfxo_GEtY/VgZ0QETWbWI/AAAAAAAAQGI/Lr8MVgezTqA/s640/IMG_9499.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Nearby the homestead is an interesting graveyard of old vehicles and a petrol pump that we would have got fuel from in 1975 when we passed though this area in our old Land Rover, just after we arrived in Australia. </span><br />
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</span> <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7Tkl-yexMt0/VgZz8etFlTI/AAAAAAAAQFs/JtzNqaH6GrM/s1600/IMG_9497.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7Tkl-yexMt0/VgZz8etFlTI/AAAAAAAAQFs/JtzNqaH6GrM/s640/IMG_9497.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">1km up a small track through the rusty car park is a very powerful small blowhole, only about 30cm diameter, but when it’s blowing it’s more than enough to remove your hairpiece, if it’s not firmly attached.</span><br />
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</span> <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SbtoB2lvxlg/VgZ0O5pbDFI/AAAAAAAAQGA/fYOT_WbAOis/s1600/IMG_9505.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SbtoB2lvxlg/VgZ0O5pbDFI/AAAAAAAAQGA/fYOT_WbAOis/s640/IMG_9505.png" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The centrepiece of Koonalda is its cave which is a rocky 5km trip north from the homestead, but well worth the rough ride.</span><br />
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</span> <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZA8k_8GSsJks-38YhdshKLl_pKDFlvthAC2edy_Jo_83jRvZpElFtU5S0kNZts4SjPc6D_k5scfB6LgSFFFG-BuvR8T3HPQX5DEJ5XgOHRfAaX6wUP3RHDw_XpQUdm3L3L6INAEOlo_ZJ/s1600/IMG_9506-9507.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZA8k_8GSsJks-38YhdshKLl_pKDFlvthAC2edy_Jo_83jRvZpElFtU5S0kNZts4SjPc6D_k5scfB6LgSFFFG-BuvR8T3HPQX5DEJ5XgOHRfAaX6wUP3RHDw_XpQUdm3L3L6INAEOlo_ZJ/s640/IMG_9506-9507.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">It looks quite intimidating at first glance, especially the danger sign forbidding entry to the cave to anyone without a permit. However, the nearby industrial strength stile over the stout boundary fence would seem to be contradictory.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fmSfELONzNc/VgZ_FJF5xAI/AAAAAAAAQII/j9sKg9PwDp8/s1600/IMG_9511%2B-%2BVersion%2B2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fmSfELONzNc/VgZ_FJF5xAI/AAAAAAAAQII/j9sKg9PwDp8/s640/IMG_9511%2B-%2BVersion%2B2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">However, the stile does make a handy step ladder for peering into the innards of the cave:</span><br />
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</span> <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yju-EghE200/VgZ0XogSnnI/AAAAAAAAQGw/ndq8EHyWCZU/s1600/IMG_9524.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yju-EghE200/VgZ0XogSnnI/AAAAAAAAQGw/ndq8EHyWCZU/s640/IMG_9524.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q8UUKNdFepU/VgZ-Jrj_V6I/AAAAAAAAQIA/52BbWjedqSs/s1600/IMG_9521-9523.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q8UUKNdFepU/VgZ-Jrj_V6I/AAAAAAAAQIA/52BbWjedqSs/s640/IMG_9521-9523.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-family: inherit;">The cave is home to countless pairs of Welcome Swallows who are able to defy gravity in their quest for a safe nesting location, and they are so inquisitive that every time we stop, a flock of them do a fly past to check out our Oka as the location for a </span>new <span style="font-family: inherit;">h</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">ousing estate.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-family: inherit;">They particularly liked the rear window overhang of our Oka and the spare wheel as the landing ground.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uTKK65nWK-o/VgZ0kPyZtMI/AAAAAAAAQHI/QBoD-aWkc1c/s1600/IMG_9539.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uTKK65nWK-o/VgZ0kPyZtMI/AAAAAAAAQHI/QBoD-aWkc1c/s640/IMG_9539.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w_XL-RlZDmk/VgZ_FUZxPHI/AAAAAAAAQIM/EAeYOHwgVzo/s1600/IMG_9534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w_XL-RlZDmk/VgZ_FUZxPHI/AAAAAAAAQIM/EAeYOHwgVzo/s640/IMG_9534.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
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<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">We camped just past Koonalda along the Old Eyre Highway behind some bushes.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Sept 26</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span> This<span style="font-family: inherit;"> morning's ride was marred somewhat, when we killed a big black snake.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-family: inherit;">We didn't mean to, I thought it was a stick or a shadow across part of the track and it </span>wasn'<span style="font-family: inherit;">t until I was right up close that we realised is was a snake basking in the morning sun, but by then it was too close to do anything about it on a narrow 2 lane </span>track.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VedEt8By6Ow/VgkisErp5RI/AAAAAAAAQKs/2RbINNAW-wQ/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-09-28%2Bat%2B8.50.41%2Bpm.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="466" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VedEt8By6Ow/VgkisErp5RI/AAAAAAAAQKs/2RbINNAW-wQ/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-09-28%2Bat%2B8.50.41%2Bpm.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Is it a stick or a tree root?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Here are it's last moments:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JICR8OiHkL8/VgkiWspqXkI/AAAAAAAAQKk/dofiK8SFSHo/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-09-28%2Bat%2B8.48.01%2Bpm.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="390" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JICR8OiHkL8/VgkiWspqXkI/AAAAAAAAQKk/dofiK8SFSHo/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-09-28%2Bat%2B8.48.01%2Bpm.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Too late we realised it was a snake.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We stopped a bit later and checked that it hadn't flicked up and got wrapped around something under the Oka but there was no sign of it.<br />
<br />
I don't like killing any animals (except maybe flies, mosquitoes and march flies) and it bothered me for some time. It's bad enough seeing all the roadkill along the highways without contributing to the toll.<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-family: inherit;">After completing the Old Eyre Highway past some </span>wrecked<span style="font-family: inherit;"> cars and rusting water tanks, we emerged on the new one at Nullarbor Roadhouse.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-family: inherit;">We chose to complete this year's journey on bitumen since the next section of the Old Eyre Highway does not have the same number of points of interest, and our tyres are not </span>perfect<span style="font-family: inherit;">.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The </span>downside<span style="font-family: inherit;"> is the Nullarbor plain in all its visual glory:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K-J6KIL0urY/VgZ0hKGehGI/AAAAAAAAQHA/RULkpw-RysM/s1600/IMG_9544.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K-J6KIL0urY/VgZ0hKGehGI/AAAAAAAAQHA/RULkpw-RysM/s640/IMG_9544.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
We camped in a rest area well off the highway at Caroona Hut, just east of Nundroo.<br />
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<b>Sept 27</b><br />
<b><br />
</b> Today we passed through Penong, which, apart from 100 windmills, has the first shop we had seen for over 1000km.<br />
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This truck passed us, leading to a completely new meaning of "Road Train":<br />
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At Ceduna we stopped for the necessary but tedious quarantine check.<br />
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<i> "Did you come from Western Australia sir?" "Yes".</i><br />
<i> "Can I have a look in your fridge please?" "Yes".</i><br />
<i> "Any fruit and vegetables with you?" No, we ate them all last night".</i><br />
<i> "Do you have any other food cupboards?" "Yes, in here".</i><br />
<i> "Thank you sir, honey is OK travelling in your direction. Have a nice day".</i><br />
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And we were through, as we knew we would be, we've done this many times before and learned to eat it, cook it (like a soup with left over veggies) or throw it out, before reaching the check point. Then there are no hassles. Some people get into endless and fruitless (pun intended) arguments over a few $$ worth of veggies (or fruities).<br />
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So next to the IGA to replenish our supplies. Not as cheap as in Adelaide, but who cares, we still have to eat. Just leaving the check out, who should we meet than Rick and Sue Whitworth, who we last saw at Ningaloo Reef a month ago, 2236km away by the Great Circle Route or 2238km by the Rhumb Line process.<br />
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They were heading back to Geelong and had parked next to us and we made plans to visit them next time we were in Melbourne.<br />
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After lunch on the seashore and a long but useful talk with Scott in Melbourne, we refuelled and set off for Port Augusta. This was the first fuel we'd put in since Norseman, more than 1300km ago (due to our side trips) and we still had 50 ltrs left (out of 250).<br />
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Ceduna is a really nice town and maybe one day we should spend a bit more than 1/2 hour there exploring.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunchspot view from the Oka cabin</td></tr>
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The scenery gradually changed from bushland to pastoral sheep country to arable farming land with fences. We hadn't seen fences alongside the roads for weeks, how suburban is that?<br />
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Still 900km to go to Adelaide but already we are getting into local mode after 9 weeks away.<br />
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Finding secluded camping spots is becoming more difficult with encroaching farm activities but we did find a small track near the little known location of Cungena, between Wirrulla and Pochera to place it firmly on the map, which offered us some seclusion and a nice bushland setting and that's where we are tonight:<br />
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Nearby we found what we think are some orchids:<br />
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<b>Sept 28</b><br />
<b><br />
</b> We thought today would be a fairly boring bitumen drive from our campsite to Lake Gilles, our normal stopping point in the eastern Eyre Peninsula about 25km east of Kimba. We often camp there for it's great bush scenery. It's a No Camping area, which makes it perfect for camping in since there's never anyone else there!<br />
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However, when we reached Kimba in early afternoon we found some changes had taken place since our last visit. The town has become an RV Friendly Town and a money spider had been spending up big there.<br />
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Looking for our usual water supply point we came across a brand new free RV park with water, toilets and showers. We filled up and sought out the Visitor Centre for more good news. Along the way we found a free Lions Club rest area for campers and caravans with good facilities (which is where we are camped now).<br />
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The Visitor Centre is having a big makeover and the nice young lady there gave us maps and told us of other innovations, like two sculptures on the hill top, the museum, manicured gardens around the recreation areas with a new bowling green and golf course.<br />
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The sculptures were of Edward John Eyre and his aboriginal guide, cleverly composed from rusting local relics and overlooking the town:<br />
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Even down to the prismatic compass Eyre is using:<br />
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Next to the RV rest area is a new Mining Village. Aha, so it's mining $$ which is causing all the activity. But according to Bruce, a 92 year old former farmer in the area who came to visit us later in the afternoon, no mining had actually begun. It was/is going to be a new iron ore mine but the low iron ore price and difficulties with railways and funding a new deep water port has stymied development.<br />
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Nonetheless, Kimba is fast developing into an attractive place to visit, not just an overnight stop. It's another of the very few towns which actively encourage visitors to stay and in return all they ask is that visitors patronise local businesses, which we did, food and fuel.<br />
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One of the streets in Kimba has all its trees and power poles fitted with "tree socks", presumably knitted by ladies of the CWA. Janet calls the colourful streetscape a new "s<b><span style="color: red;">tree</span></b>t ad<b><span style="color: red;">dres</span><span style="color: red;">s</span>"</b><b>:</b><br />
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On a gate next to the IGA supermarket, I spotted this ingenious use of an old universal joint from a car as a gate hinge:<br />
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Since we dallied a bit in Kimba and it's 450km from Adelaide, we'll spread the remaining journey over 2 days and arrive home on Wednesday.<br />
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Tomorrow we'll reach Port Augusta and camp at Mambray Creek.<br />
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<b>29 Sept</b><br />
<b><br /></b>And yes, we did reach Pt Augusta today after a few experiences.<br />
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We met Bruce again this morning on his rounds and he said he was "working" at the museum (at the age of 92), taking people around. So we said we'll see you there on our way out of town.<br />
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He was and he did and we did. The Kimba museum is a treasure trove of old farming and "living in the country" memorabilia.<br />
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Relocated buildings, complex farming implements, engineering tools, old tractors, stationary engines, an old school room, a sewing machine room, an old camera display and an olde shoppe.<br />
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It's described in the tourist brochure thusly:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>Eight separate buildings: The historic pioneer house, the one teacher school, the blacksmith shop, the Government Shed are equipped. Sheds house the farm machinery, stationary engines and fire engine, while a separate museum centre contains a library, photographic and interpretive displays, taped histories and various documents relating to social history. All in bushland setting.</i></blockquote>
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<i>Kimba's local history museum includes pioneer domestic and farming items, stationary engines, harness vehicles and equipment, vintage trucks and tractors, a water conservation model, schooling and communication equipment together with supporting documents, maps, tapes, photographs and ephemera.</i></blockquote>
All of it was very interesting but ultimately we became overwhelmed and overloaded with history but you can read more about the museum <a href="http://community.history.sa.gov.au/kimba-gawler-ranges-historical-society">here</a>. It <i>is</i> well worth a visit.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An old fireplace. I shall build a mantlepiece like this when we get home.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A grader that Bruce built himself from an old truck and collections of scrap iron and used it for several years.<br />
Note the steering wheel is miles away from the seat but he said you didn't need to steer it much anyway.</td></tr>
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After the museum overload we moved on to Lake Gilles, not to camp this time, just for a lunch spot.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pigface in bloom next to the lake<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption">Emu footprints across the lake bed.<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Later on the highway we had to move over for some monster moves.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Eventually </span>after<span style="font-family: inherit;"> bypassing Pt Augusta and waiting for hours (it seemed) at some new bridge works, we arrived at Mambray Creek to camp. </span>Our<span style="font-family: inherit;"> last camping place for this trip.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Home to</span>morrow and the search for the keys to the lawnmower shed will begin. Everything back to normal.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Epilogue</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">This has been quite a good trip, </span>maybe<span style="font-family: inherit;"> not as spectacular as others, probably due to the fact that we had done much of </span>the<span style="font-family: inherit;"> route before, and we had a few unexpected technical problems before and during the trip.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">We've done 10,500km in 9 weeks and covered an area half the size of Europe. 1900 photos and a lot more memories than that, we've met some very nice </span>people, a few other Okas and surmounted quite a few problems, not all our own either. A fairly typical trip.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">There were some highlights of course, </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">like camping </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">and </span></span><span style="font-size: small;">snorkelling in the reef lagoon </span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">on Ningaloo Station (while you still can, it's under threat from the WA Government)</span></span><span style="font-size: small;">,</span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> a</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">nd visiting the northerly section of the huge Rudall River National Park neither of which</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"> we had done before. Plus the freedom and peacefulness of the outback wherever we are, and the warm coastal towns of Dampier/Karratha.</span></div>
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</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">To re-read out blogs use the following links or the "2015 Trek across WA" drop down menu at the top of each page:</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2015/07/wa-trip-2015.html">Home to Newman</a>,</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2015/08/wa-trip-2015-newman-to-ningaloo.html">Newman to Ningaloo</a>,</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/wa-trip-2015-ningaloo-northwards.html">Ningaloo Northwards and then Southwards</a>,</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/wa-trip-2015-norseman-east-on-eyre.html">East across the Eyre Highway</a>.</span></div>
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dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-1213701947404211152015-09-06T22:56:00.006+09:302018-02-24T22:17:02.132+10:30WA Trip 2015 - Ningaloo Northwards a bit, then Southwards<p>Welcome back to the third instalment of our WA 2015 Trip Blog</p><p><strong>5 Sept 2015</strong></p><p>Yesterday morning:</p><p>        <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);">Found one of Janet’s long hairs in my breakfast Weet-Bix.</span></p><p>        <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);">Have I not been punished enough in the hair department already that she has to flaunt her surplus hair at me???</span></p><p>This morning:</p><p>        Shrieks from Janet this morning, she found a long hair in her own Weet-Bix today.</p><p>        Oh, such blessed irony!</p><p>————————————————</p><p>For the past few days we’ve been using our reserve drinking water tank which still had good old Adelaide water in it. The reason being that while at Yardie Caravan Park, we (I) accidentally filled up both main tanks with less than savoury bore water (it wasn’t a health risk, it just tasted like liquid paraffin and tainted the tea). So today we had to transfer water out of the drinking water tank to the shower/washing water tank today to make room from some fresh drinking water available at the Exmouth visitor centre.</p><p>Having been spotted by Rick and Sue yesterday at Oyster Stacks, today we spotted their Oka in the shopping centre car park in Exmouth.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P-VFRm2PkCw/Vew98KUU1II/AAAAAAAAPyk/lCoQ1qUpoMo/s1600/IMG_8956_1.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--P6-xpV7GdI/WpCjN_8KcdI/AAAAAAAAVc4/pug9T_V35TsEnKXKe9MkXLWl-6m70iYTwCHMYCw/IMG_8956_1.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_8956_1.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></a></p><p>That done and the laundrying, shopping and a visit to the bottle shop (for we don’t know how much longer we’ll be able to get 5 litre casks of wine), we set off south to go east and then north if you understand, Exmouth being at the top of a peninsular.</p><p>If I said the landscape south of Exmouth was totally boring, it would be a major understatement. 100’s km of scrubby, dry grassland over low sand dunes suitable only for sheep. No trees, no flowering shrubs like in the National Park, no features of any kind except the occasional termite mound. Here’s a drawing of the landscape:</p><p> </p><p>————————^——————————^——————————</p><p> </p><p>We found a small track into a clear area between 2 sand dunes which was a perfect campsite (see below), apart from the boringness of the view.</p><p> </p><p> </p><p>————————^————O-O————^——————————</p><p> </p><p> </p><p><strong>6 Sept 2015</strong></p><p>Today, being father’s day we had a special Father’s Day treat, a flat tyre, the first of this trip and only the 5th in 10 years and 170,000km of touring.</p><p>It was between Exmouth and Karratha on the North West Coastal Highway. We were quietly motoring along enjoying a Father’s Day drive when Janet said “Should the Oka be weaving back and forth like that?"</p><p>Well actually, no it should not. So we stopped to have a look and the left rear tyre was almost flat.</p><p>So my mechanic and I got out jacks and wheel braces and blowing up thingees and set to replacing the wheel on the side of the road with road trains whizzing past and blowing dust and stones all over us.</p><p>In little more than an hour, we replaced the wheel (they weigh over 80kg each), plugged the sidewall hole in the offending tyre (which had also lost a block of tread), blew it up again as a workable spare and put everything away (which was the biggest job).</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EoyLPsJ9hE4/Vew9tpouRAI/AAAAAAAAPyc/Dj6g_K6g300/s1600/IMG_8957.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RFOl2sadUt0/WpChgear01I/AAAAAAAAVYE/zZMX8mci_VsOWQYNaL2nyjrHOaBLvAKsACHMYCw/IMG_8957.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_8957.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Number of vehicles who passed by >100. Number of vehicles who stopped to help <1.</em></span></p><p>With a replaced wheel we travelled on circumspectly, if there is such a word, noting that both our spares now have plugged sidewalls and even 2 of the other 4 have nasty gashes in their sidewalls.</p><p>Due to our diminishing stocks of safe and useable tyres, if we can't get any new ones in Karratha, we'll have to retrace our steps carefully down to Perth where we would be able to get some and come home across the Nullarbor. If we kept going north and then east and then south, there would be bugga of a chance of getting any tyres the right size along the way and I doubt we could get home with the tyres we have.</p><p>Ironically I have 3 almost new tyres at home but considered that the 6 we took with us had plenty of life left in them for one more trip.</p><p>In the words of me, on my Oka blog: "You wouldn't leave home on a trip with tyres more than half worn, would you?".</p><p>Well they weren't half worn then, but they certainly are now. I shall have to amend my saying to: "You wouldn't leave home on a trip with tyres more than 0.001% worn, would you?".</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><strong>Experience is a great teacher but why does it conduct its lessons when you're 4000km from home? </strong></span></p><p>We crossed the Ashburton River at the Nanutara Roadhouse but needing nothing we didn't stop. Last time we called in they didn't have any diesel anyway and the manager was very rude about it. ("Well, could we have some water instead then?" "No"). Excellent customer relations.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QGLm6xyBSyw/WpCiNudfgxI/AAAAAAAAVaE/_LHUM4sbZCc3gc1JvK7MqJZC-oDXa9MhgCHMYCw/IMG_8972.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_8972.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tBQNsjLXdWI/WpCisZInTRI/AAAAAAAAVbY/YG68Dsk7K8ki6qL7JAvBLm4nx9v0e7UUACHMYCw/IMG_8971.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_8971.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>We are camped tonight in the Cane River Conservation Park. There is a rest area marked on maps but in practice it does not exist. If it ever did, it's now completely invisible and anyway a recently constructed causeway over the river precludes any chance of reaching it.</p><p>Not to be outdone, we located a small track which led about 1km off the highway to a beautiful area of red gravel and green spinifex clumps.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4COplOAfcNo/WpCh6f_q_pI/AAAAAAAAVZQ/zEJ7bLFuMSUsVeDHcTPTS7wRX3nyYVf3ACHMYCw/IMG_8979-8980-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_8979-8980-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p> </p><p>Tomorrow we should complete our journey to Karratha, which is the residential area for the Port of Dampier, where Rio Tinto export their iron ore from.</p><p>Hopefully we'll meet up with fellow site administrator James who lives in Karratha.</p><p><strong>7 Sept 2015</strong></p><p>An auspicious day, my LXX birthday and now I'm officially a septicuglerion, or something similar. (I don't have the confidence to face numerical realities yet while I can still speak fluent Roman. What have they ever done for us? Not simple mathematics, that's for sure.)</p><p>Several Happy Birthday messages on my Facebook page and emails, many thanks to all, and the usual computer generated messages from websites I have visited.</p><p>And I had a nice breakfast of bacon, eggs, mushrooms and fried tomatoes on toast surrounded by my birthday cards:</p><p style="text-align: center"> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-okeah5UBbjs/WpCicnzoHSI/AAAAAAAAVas/jPg6f5UcaZEqtXD3_BoJuWPnAGJ6YANqgCHMYCw/IMG_8984_1.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_8984_1.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p><strong>Fings wot I have Supa-Glued today:</strong></p><p>A broken towel rail rail. I can't believe it, it's only 10 years old too:</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wxa4vnYSMvM/WpCiYUYB7SI/AAAAAAAAVag/NeB2GLuf_Sgn2_3sfOerlClqVWK_qr4CQCHMYCw/IMG_8987.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_8987.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>A couple of minor points where the soles of Janet's sandals had come adrift.</p><p>I can believe that, not so cheap but definitely nasty ladies sandals made to look at not for clambering over rocks, sand dunes, squashing bugs etc.:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jq7B2RRF5Rw/WpCjIIADJyI/AAAAAAAAVco/6hNOHYwHTIEvDx5cz9SSCqabfnTKXZ-JACHMYCw/IMG_8986.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_8986.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p> </p><p>We are now in Dampier in mid west WA, a major exporting port for Rio Tinto's iron ore, but you wouldn't guess it from the photos of the bay (from the bar in the pub):</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C5_hiGUJ2y4/WpCjAcZyAEI/AAAAAAAAVcU/kwOVTwDcEp0hoJ6Bi0axj1CNri0aZ5itACHMYCw/IMG_9010-9013-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9010-9013-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Unlike Port Hedland which is covered in BHP's red dust, Dampier is a very pretty area with all the nasty port-y type things kept very low key and out of sight.</p><p> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,233); text-decoration: underline;"> </span></p><p>We celebrated my birthday at the Dampier Mermaid Hotel, carefully chosen due to the fact that it's the only one open on a Monday, but the food was good and they had an SA wine on the wine list (only one) plus a free shuttle bus to our campsite.</p><p>Sadly no mermaids were on show, although Alex the wine waitress was a good approximation.</p><p>We don't look very happy in the photo but we'd had a long hot drive today and it was still very hot (mid 30's) and we hadn't had a drink yet:</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKsJipT33pT3jplz1ubSHmRoUAVfkCjrG4Y5PVxM2goBv7pnWZSmM6llMDFZ0Xuj6u2hyLDHovfc09H8MYH48eNePub6IYjOoH0DeE4cKwyktF35nvlSrOECzZ1dxqxwI_MFe12P10mBM9/" alt="IMG_9018-9019-1-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Once the wine bottle could be upended without spillage, all seemed much better.</p><p>Here's the Mermaid Hotel as it was in 1968. The views over Dampier Bay are still the same except they are now in colour:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fQxAu2MORMQ/WpCiZ0B6NLI/AAAAAAAAVak/3XFwpUmqqUUm6iW22uFHjAtgPQaXIsWZwCHMYCw/IMG_9157_1.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9157_1.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Historical Note:</p><p>The Mermaid was the name of Lt Philip King's ship when he first surveyed the Dampier area in 1818. He also named Mermaid Sound in the Dampier Archipelago.</p><p><strong>8 Sept 2015</strong></p><p>Today somewhat refreshed and with only a minor hangover we went to visit James, my fellow Oka website administrator at his home in Karratha.</p><p>We had a very congenial chat about life, the universe and Oka websites and a cup of tea.</p><p>In the course of discussions we talked about tyres. I'd previously asked James if he knew of any available in the Karratha area but we both really knew tyres of an Oka size were difficult to come by and we were resigned to spending a few days here while we arranged for some to be trucked up from Perth.</p><p>James then said he had a few old ones lying around his yard which were used as supports for boats, trailer covers etc and would we be interested if that would help? So yes, we said and had a look at what he had. There were a couple of brand new Toyo M608Z's but a few years old and some part worn tyres, all still on original Oka wheels, which he had no further use for since he had moved on to 17 inch alloys and larger tyres imported from the US (partly due to the difficulty in sourcing 19.5 inch tyres).</p><p>After some discussions on price, we agreed the simplest course of action was to simply swap over wheels with tyres still on them. So we moved across the road to a piece of hard standing gravel and changed all 4 wheels. It was hot grinding work in the Karratha heat which is starting to wind up to summer.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R3Ugh0YLVuE/WpChekfa_0I/AAAAAAAAVYA/pYe_VvIGa9EpBBH_BRzbNJUSJiw-IuodACHMYCw/IMG_9027.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9027.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-enVkfCTYcWI/WpCigceHv1I/AAAAAAAAVa0/mCqzrQJztDYTjNvdoekwxnzybHN2sGpuwCHMYCw/IMG_9037.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9037.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center">New <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>front</em></span> tyres</p><p>In the end we took 3 of the 4 tyres available since the 4th one we found had a long Tek screw buried in the tread. After removing it, air came out so I plugged it up but its remaining tread wasn't any better than one of mine, and replacing the wheel on the rear gate is a real drag, so we didn't change that one over.</p><p>Now we were the proud owners of some new and part used tyres which should see us home. As luck would further have it I have a couple of similar part-worn tyres of the same type at home, part of a job lot I bought a couple of years ago.</p><p>Problems solved we thought, but fate was about to play another dastardly hand.</p><p>While outside James' place, we had the air conditioning on full blast since it was hot and humid, when we heard a loud hissing sound from under the Oka, similar to that you get when a radiator boils over. This was followed by a gurgling noise and green liquid spewed on to the ground, which also looked like green radiator coolant.</p><p>However, it was nothing quite so simple. The green fluid was actually oily, of the kind used in air-conditioning systems. A high pressure hose from the compressor had ruptured.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLrLMzFRRT9VgAYhGhLEtbVPQTDvWtOSZuR6_xfWWHcSPUEVnqKRb4r64B_V3aG_kD_WoSC8-C9sFijm_9BuRjF5DwFPUS5cDf00CV8B8Jl8efRA_AKPuJCg-T1pv6nDatcuD1qoMTZBcL/" alt="IMG_9035.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Green fluid spewed out of the 2 black hoses</em></span></p><p>Bugga, another problem to solve.</p><p><strong>9 Sept 2015</strong></p><p>So this morning, after the aches and pains of changing 4 wheels had subsided, we took the Oka to an air conditioning place in Karratha called "Jolly Good Auto Electrics", owned somewhat surprisingly by a Mr Trevor Jolly. They had the Oka for most of the day with the news getting progressively worse as we wandered around and sat and waited in Karratha City, a nearby shopping centre which was mercifully cool.</p><p>At first the hose replacement was an easy fix, but then they found that the condenser cooling fan had failed which had allowed the system to overheat which caused the hose to fail in the first place. Then they found a leak in the condenser itself, which is why we needed the system regassed in Alice Springs 3 weeks ago.</p><p>So to make a long story almost as long, we had to have a new condenser, new cooling fan, sundry pipes replaced, the system leak tested again and regassed, the total cost being northwards of $1300.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ax-tpquUgOI/WpCjDoILYNI/AAAAAAAAVcc/ElNzReCG2SIJhtMRLV03MBAlP6pMpkeSgCHMYCw/IMG_9033.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9033.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>New high pressure "Tee" piece after Trevor was scathing about Oka's original brass joiner</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ww_BFXwnUUE/WpCh_1MdoFI/AAAAAAAAVZg/JNKKFT8P280JE47tJYKhMCWf74kAEpqVgCHMYCw/IMG_9028.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9028.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Shiny new condenser, fan, filter and pipework</em></span></p><p>However, I (and Trevor) are now pretty confident that the air conditioning woes we've had over the past few years should be behind us. Trevor was surprised that the previous "experts" we had consulted hadn't been able to spot these problems before and I should tell them of the real situation.</p><p>Sadly, air conditioning systems are one of the few areas of car maintenance that I'm not able to work on due to legal restrictions on the use of refrigerant gases, because the plumbing work is no different fundamentally to compressed air, bottled gas or water piping.</p><p><strong>10 Sept 2015</strong></p><p>Today at last we had a free day to see some of Dampier's delights.</p><p>We start with our small, volunteer-run and therefore cheap but adequate caravan park, right on the bay:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8v9-cnN81Rk/WpCieaZiAdI/AAAAAAAAVaw/WMqm2k5lx0oPfllY7UTouocztG2lQPG_QCHMYCw/IMG_9038.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9038.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Right across the road from the caravan park is Dampier Bay, a very quiet picturesque bay dotted with islands, yachts and other small craft:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Cqpelq1FsoQ/WpChjN9s95I/AAAAAAAAVYM/Ntys5JWe-AI1bz_ilwwD7H7dc9wJSiZ8gCHMYCw/IMG_9039-9041-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9039-9041-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> </p><p>Of course, being an iron ore exporting port, you'd expect some industry to be evident, but it is fairly discrete, up the other end of the bay:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EyCmMN4kL_A/WpCjUBeRS9I/AAAAAAAAVdI/VR5SiTltXlw58oqdRODBpHLlfnCEEnePgCHMYCw/IMG_9042-9044-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9042-9044-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Surt Desert Peas are almost weeds in these parts and grow everywhere, even on the edge of the shore:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZSzV_BkfAq8/WpCi8JkggwI/AAAAAAAAVcI/AU-a8JtVEs0k6I9ehJpbxd1sp1MD_y6XgCHMYCw/IMG_9049.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9049.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>This is Tidepole Island, a private island with a castle built by a recluse in the 1960's:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-knh0xGzHRD8/WpCiBruCyiI/AAAAAAAAVZk/GAYQYxcDk4A6cGOat7ZfPxz2N1KDU2lrACHMYCw/IMG_9051.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9051.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>There is quite a nice beach nearby:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FvpPC4sx7lo/WpCiqgF3gzI/AAAAAAAAVbU/VcF88xi-8xUUKwF5gqOxiosuqoKkaWGDQCHMYCw/IMG_9053-9054-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9053-9054-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>With proof of at least one swimmer:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E8TDwmm0Tb0/WpChxdV-2aI/AAAAAAAAVY0/y0SSY-lcch0rceBA_r2DcKyBT5vVT-7qgCHMYCw/IMG_9057.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9057.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>From the bay we went up to a lookout overlooking East Intercourse Island (yes, that's its real name the origins of will be explained later), the site of another loading facility:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5mqr4BW5K55jBQ-GSDhNMR7sjGGkY47otAKJnvCGt2iiTodlew4MBfBF8RBp2vHcOCbS5k1KV64byUYQ2enaWF6ZrHw0PcPKtVgpEb_tdDXOiT_IDV-Nmb36pC6ht1gYS9v5uGJ9t0VUs/" alt="IMG_9060-9064-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>From there it's only 20km to the North West Shelf gas processing plant, one of the biggest in the world and its statistics are staggering:</p><p>$42bn of investment, including 4 offshore extraction platforms, 135km of undersea 1m diameter high pressure gas pipelines, a huge gas processing plant (which is the only part of the project visible) and dock facilities despatching 1 LNG tanker every 1.5 days.</p><p>The view of the round domes of the underground LNG storage tanks from the visitors centre. These 4 tanks each hold 60,000 tonnes of liquified natural gas cooled to -161ºC while awaiting delivery, a very large potential time bomb:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjbYHP6AVjl_hFYSf4ZM1NjS_uXoJuITeBJBDFxw3D-Qc0qj_gRuohZkSTYgiVyULID7KiMnu_GvDOYdR3QrVeRGXrCEGR0ID1wQHsf3NIfBYpuc_ETJUHckDxcZSfTw4nJL8m-qDtLOSM/" alt="IMG_9077.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>The Karratha gas plant can produce 52,000 tonnes of LNG a day.</p><p>This is an aerial view of the processing plant, which surprisingly does not interfere much with the natural beauty of the surrounding environment:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yh2WpjYtzyo/WpCik7GRV6I/AAAAAAAAVbE/9XqHEmpVpWYZz-xJRLZqsVJhVg_RYN9jACHMYCw/photo-5-2015-09-6-22-56.jpg" alt="photo-5-2015-09-6-22-56.jpg"></em></span></p><p>This is us at Whitnel Bay, right next to the gas processing plant and it's nice enough to camp there:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6_MQaTWyEzw/WpCiHmJ5TCI/AAAAAAAAVZ4/1KPf8j6gfsk-Jzg6FVGhi1czRBD7UBrXgCHMYCw/IMG_9082-9084-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9082-9084-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>But right behind us, fairly well hidden, is the processing plant:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YlcVprIOUHY/WpCiznn-8PI/AAAAAAAAVbs/cupwj0YTmiIIkSNh8gKGIyRq8nHo0U3AgCHMYCw/IMG_9080-9081-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9080-9081-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p> Even a white bellied sea eagle is at home in this environment:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Amiff28r5V8/WpCiDKZ0_gI/AAAAAAAAVZs/8-8XdqdpLR0NiCej7NPY13GbYESjDoxiwCHMYCw/IMG_9091.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9091.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Nearly every part of Dampier and the nearby Burrup Peninsular is built on huge piles of naturally occurring brown boulders.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hRBrh6Pjjrs/WpCimYs-5GI/AAAAAAAAVbI/EBFNwTOPnOc1poNCPfKkGcif-xofutaOgCHMYCw/IMG_9094-9095-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9094-9095-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9mBqTiv9lfU/WpCh3vSX3fI/AAAAAAAAVZI/JoorvmtFsoE3o6YnFRkYzFVWCq64QMa4QCHMYCw/IMG_9114-9115-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9114-9115-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> </p><p>And in Deep Gorge in Murujuga National Park on the Burrup Peninsular, literally every rock has ancient aboriginal artwork on them. Here is a selection (yes, close up with the sun on them, the rocks were this red!):</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AhldvtB1pa4/WpCjJMpnOXI/AAAAAAAAVcs/T6SSsSx5OGUaYSFJ6ObIcwkQ9XEeMGRGwCHMYCw/IMG_9142.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9142.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uDPmU-eYB5s/WpCiSECFIpI/AAAAAAAAVaQ/e77lXnxRp18YZASAkp2Mb2cuUHtgclRVACHMYCw/IMG_9107.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9107.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lB6ga-USUbg/WpChyEZyo8I/AAAAAAAAVY4/B_ls9l5cFWsC-MZN4MUFJ5U59Pp5NyhcACHMYCw/IMG_9113.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9113.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lhibC9DUQ50/WpChuQ-OYtI/AAAAAAAAVYs/TCt03aBDAMc_rj5XOTkkp90qsbY9XMD2QCHMYCw/IMG_9118.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9118.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0C_HSPDVZ4E/WpCh8XXw73I/AAAAAAAAVZY/0UQTGR981kkj5uSeYK7NQMHjYWCVx-X3gCHMYCw/IMG_9129.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9129.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hZqxowUzIWE/WpCjYw6Bc6I/AAAAAAAAVdU/TLr45F4FaNIrAInuHXpPCdu0Bvqhb7qKwCHMYCw/IMG_9130.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9130.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IdIP4OzCIfY/WpCihGtXzXI/AAAAAAAAVa4/VCDdpOEWarEfI1xchP5MjJD-dXOcH8uWgCHMYCw/IMG_9108.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9108.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>The artworks are fairly faded because they are believed to be between 25 and 30,000 years old, that's 5 time as old as the pyramids. And there are estimated to be around 1,000,000 of these petroglyphs in the Burrup Peninsular and surrounding areas.</p><p>There are some nice waterholes along the gorge and it was pretty hot when we visited the gorges (mid 30's), so it's easy to see why ancient indigenous people would live in this area, water, shelter and plenty of sea food.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ujaivrm-1Cs/WpChT7lMI6I/AAAAAAAAVXg/lUQ70HSb5ZUiYMLwVVhjzdA29JsTadPXgCHMYCw/IMG_9137.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9137.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p><strong>11 Sept 2015</strong></p><p>Time to leave Dampier. Although we've had and are still having a trying time with a plethora of technical problems, it ws still sad to leave Dampier. Despite it's industrial fundamentals, it is a very attractive and tranquil place to be.</p><p>Yes, it has huge iron ore loading facility and gas processing plant and all the infrastructure that goes with them but it is still on a beautiful bay, with very little industrial traffic, a small but adequate shopping centre and plenty of special things and places to visit. It was only occasionally noisy when an ore train arrived or a ship left port.</p><p>People who live in Dampier say they wold never live in Karratha, but when you need it, Karratha is a fairly large town of 20,000 people only 15km away, with all the shops, suppliers and facilities you could need.</p><p>For example, just before arriving in Dampier, I found a grey spot on my leg which I worried could have been a skin cancer. So passing by Karratha Medical Centre, I popped in and checked on the availability of doctor. I waited about 10 minutes and then saw a nice Indian doctor who checked me over and assured me that the spot was nothing to worry about, but a rough area on my face could be a worry if it didn't heal up in a few months so "See your GP".</p><p>It was surprisingly efficient (it took longer to fill in those stupid forms than the time I had to wait), and better still there was no cost, he must have liked me or maybe it was due to my recent birthday.</p><p>Historical Note:</p><p>Dampier was named after William Dampier, the English buccaneer who was given carte blanche to plunder Spanish ships wherever he found them and go forth and explore new lands on behalf of the Crown. All of this was 80 years before James Cook did much the same thing.</p><p>Dampier mapped the west coast of Australia as commissioned by the British government in 1699, but didn't recognise Australia as a major new continent so he failed to plant a British flag here.</p><p>His exploits surrounding the abandonment of Alexander Selkirk on a desert island inspired Daniel Defoe's novel Robinson Crusoe (claimed to be the first ever novel in English).</p><p>Note Ends.</p><p>After leaving Dampier (the town), we called in at Point Sampson just up the coast which is a very pretty small seaside resort and has some nice beaches.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--5xf9DRdvKw/WpCho1MJaVI/AAAAAAAAVYc/rF_qhf-SDs4jUFW3Fih0WKgdjm_-PdKPwCHMYCw/IMG_9158.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9158.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Honeymoon Cove</em></span></p><p>The layered rock formations on the way down to Honeymoon Cove were quite contorted and lifted to the vertical position.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--kAVN9fndAY/WpCiGnPH4YI/AAAAAAAAVZ0/FXmsXzfOgTYs6XnuW2lDHjuc6d42J8FSQCHMYCw/IMG_9161-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9161-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>We went for a paddle in Honeymoon Cove but the sun was getting too hot and burning our legs so we retreated to the Oka.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S9Z8HmtZCW0/WpCitJ4_AJI/AAAAAAAAVbc/yXroR56Ld94hwiuik9zYk5VsWTsZDemqgCHMYCw/IMG_9163-9165-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9163-9165-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>We drove around to Cossack, a very early settlement nearby where a leprosarium was once established due to to its isolated location.</p><p>We had lunch on a headland overlooking Cossack and decided that if we had leprosy, Cossack would be a very nice place to have it in.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W6c3z3SdkHc/WpCh5XhQuxI/AAAAAAAAVZM/GHFwctf34MYN5vvz-KscdfWgay7PHS8ewCHMYCw/IMG_9168-9169-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9168-9169-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>The town's old buildings are being restored by local volunteers and provide a wealth of understanding abut life in the early days of colonisation in a very remote part of the fledgling colony. There's an Ice Cream Shoppe there now but I bet there wasn't when lepers came to visit.</p><p>While we were parked for lunch a flock of Zebra Finches came to check out the Oka as potential nesting sites...</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9vEfdINjgVM/WpCi45Sp1rI/AAAAAAAAVcA/PG-j36QBB5gnCP2bYLXyNtR72ZphO5fewCHMYCw/IMG_9166.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9166.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>From Cossack , we backtracked through the Shire town of Roebourne and it was very sad to see local aboriginals sitting under almost every lamp post waiting for something to happen. It never will until they recognise that they must do something themselves to improve their own lifestyle.</p><p>We are camped in the Peawah Rest Area off the NWCH and fixed one of the a/c fan units which failed yesterday with a stalled motor which dragged the voltage down and did all sorts of unspeakable things to the electrics.</p><p>When I say "fixed", what I actually meant was that I removed the offending fan unit, cleaned out the grunged up evaporator fins and blanked off the opening so we are now operating on only one fan unit, which is surprisingly about the same as 2 of them were with blocked up fins.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BCugN8S8tkg/WpChpy-baZI/AAAAAAAAVYg/4FpZUQ5dcVA7TOU0lumphxfXVhOxz358gCHMYCw/IMG_9172-9173-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9172-9173-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GJCeA6RDetY/WpCiuz5MCDI/AAAAAAAAVbg/MUh5ZkijDdgCQxevuWfXthZZU2ZyJc6QQCHMYCw/IMG_9174.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9174.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p> </p><p><strong>12 Sept</strong></p><p>The NW Coastal Highway from Roebourne to Port Hedland is pretty boring, away from the coast and across endless plains of grassy scrubland, punctuated by a number of sharp booby shaped hillocks in the Tabba Tabba Range.</p><p>Port Hedland is our least favourite western coastal town. It's covered in fine red dust, it's hot and therefore dusty and it's huge, spread out over 50 or more km. They have built a vast new road system including American stye freeways with loop back interconnectors between them, but with huge empty spaces between them.</p><p>You could easily spend a fortnight's vacation in Dampier, but even an overnight stay in Port Hedland would be too long.</p><p>South Hedland, about 20km south of the port, has quite a good shopping centre and they have tried to provide all the essential community services and facilities that residents could require, sports arenas, green spaces and the like, but it still seemed to us to be a fairly dismal, hot, flat, and dusty place to eke out a living. No wonder BHP has to pay its workers so much just to live there. Karratha and Dampier, 250km further west, seems to have a much better living environment with pretty much the same industries and industrial infrastructure. (However see later note regarding the new Roy Hill iron ore mine south of Nullagine, which is even worse).</p><p>Having enjoyed all that South Hedland could offer (shopping, gas refills and fuel), we headed up the boring coastal highway for 50km and turned south towards Marble Bar and Nullagine.</p><p>Frankly it was getting too hot and sticky in both Dampier and Port Hedland, and the reports we got was that it was even hotter up north across from Broome to Kunnunnurra, so heading south and across the Nullarbor seemed to be the best route back to Adelaide rather than across the top and down the Stuart Highway, and it would be a bit more scenic as well.</p><p>The Marble Bar road started just as boring as the coastal highway but with a plethora of long road trains, until we reached the area where the Gorge Range of hills met the Coongan River, when it all became very attractive and we camped (where we had a few times before) in Doolena Gap, a huge gap in the Gorge Range caused by the Coongan River. Being late in the season there was only a small water hole and a few birds making the most of the dwindling resources. In other years, there has been a wealth of birdlife to watch.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cQXtSbk50MQ/WpCjSxAd1TI/AAAAAAAAVdE/OZvVTiaLvDgk4-4VfcwiNlOZF7p-FVQVwCHMYCw/IMG_9181.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9181.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F29FkrA364s/WpCjFGx2bQI/AAAAAAAAVcg/iC8W9q3yr7Iv2m33E6JN1U1sPAWzNNpMQCHMYCw/IMG_9178.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9178.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p> </p><p> </p><p><strong>13 Sept</strong></p><p>Traveling though the Coongan Gorge the next morning revealed this broken down road train trailer.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-61SUUh2r8xo/WpCi0sfSSGI/AAAAAAAAVbw/VTZs_OJfpsEOSJ3IbqaguQNVNeAjbcSCgCHMYCw/IMG_9184.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9184.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fKv4mptbl7s/WpCi6DAHC3I/AAAAAAAAVcE/oAsZ1D1x0Koo6_6rjeQRdAZRhwe9NfOGwCHMYCw/IMG_9187-9188-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9187-9188-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Marble Bar is always a delight to visit, even though it is a very small town. There's the jasper bar across the Coongan River, after which the town is named, a brand new but not yet completed War Memorial with an international war related signpost (Marble bar is closer to Singapore than it is to Melbourne or Sydney, the Iron Clad Hotel and a one stop fits all shop/fuel depot/post office. That plus some small council offices, a handful of houses and a few small mining ventures is about it.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hkYIA44GYY0/WpCi1x2iQEI/AAAAAAAAVb0/crkV_nHuoM4IUXII8TjluzALKiJ3p4VdQCHMYCw/IMG_9196.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9196.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The Iron Clad hotel on the left of the main (and only) street</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i8SMCArvJu8/WpCjGmHKLPI/AAAAAAAAVck/cUtC1LADOxglVrXcVzCyzyOqXs_3XXKWACHMYCw/IMG_9199.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9199.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The Post Office/Shop/Fuel Outlet</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g1yVYqWqohE/WpCjatbWB9I/AAAAAAAAVdc/1zpuTrVo-qIb0eLkLoXsmRhIG7LYLzLyQCHMYCw/IMG_9197.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9197.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The War Memorial</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-46IPDiY4SsI/WpChap64CqI/AAAAAAAAVX0/qUILM3FWq1osIr9ykM_gFmBZmKFZoxGgwCHMYCw/IMG_9194.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9194.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Closer to Singapore than to Melbourne or Sydney</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4l2tFsa_H3g/WpCh2BszjmI/AAAAAAAAVZA/7bEqQ9tOpb06GSJZxPvNYDzUF1f1PlwkwCHMYCw/IMG_9200.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9200.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>A beautiful chunk of jasper in the Memorial</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-naa7eGWaNAc/WpCiyvVfXhI/AAAAAAAAVbo/uNiU5GIZOrsHpKwwx2tBezAOZwKmsACbACHMYCw/IMG_9201.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9201.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>A warm day in Australia's hottest town</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center">But it's also in a very scenic part of the country, and it's not always hot, it can be very hot however and has a history of extremes which give it its legendary status as Australia's hottest town, but not at this time of year. Dry, sunny and mid 30's, the perfect time for a wander around Chinaman's Pool (the early Chinese veggie garden) which always has water in it. Further out is the Comet Gold Mine museum and the WW11 Corunna Downs secret airbase that we've visited a few times for a nostalgic reminder.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QjoKg75gCi8/WpCjcy5gLsI/AAAAAAAAVdk/wg4zy1XC7w8ioLZyGdjuK8yPQ4WPvr2OwCHMYCw/IMG_9204-9205-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9204-9205-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--mcDyEZfs-c/WpCiEv-I7kI/AAAAAAAAVZw/0kdQ04CGh3crnYc46SEGNNoVy7YiAq74wCHMYCw/IMG_9207-9208-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9207-9208-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>"The" Jasper Bar</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3VxlDXnthsU/WpCiit2rgdI/AAAAAAAAVa8/EWlgQgS80W0isLoaYv2TsYJoy5OwtASKgCHMYCw/IMG_9211-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9211-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>The good bitumen road ends just after Marble Bar when the Rippon Hills road to the Woody Woody and Telfer Gold mines branches off and the rough track to Nullagine starts, so I dropped my tyre pressures to make the ride more comfortable.</p><p>Nullagaine is an even smaller town than Marble Bar but it still has a Telstra service so we could check our emails and catch up on the Canberra goings on. ("Rumours of a leadership challenge are just a media beat up" - Abbot. Yeah, right).</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O88pN2ygp58/WpCi-DY3mZI/AAAAAAAAVcM/Shj9Ky28F6wEbAaWGy4bg7vIuqTG47BcACHMYCw/IMG_9226.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9226.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Nullagine, pretty much all of it</em></span></p><p>From Nullagine there is a very scenic track heading 150km east which leads to Eel Pool (great swimming) and Carrawine Gorge (good camping), but we've done that several times before and it's still pretty warm so we continued south to Roy Hill.</p><p>That name has become synonymous with a new iron ore mine being built near there and the road/tracks south is a mish-mash of rough tracks and brand new freeway style roads, bridges and rail crossings.</p><p>Reaching the iron ore mine site is a revelation, with a huge workers village being established with streets and streetlights, landscaped and manicured verges and rows of temporary looking Dongas, all set in a dusty outback environment.</p><p>The mine site itself is a hive of activity even though no ore has yet been extracted. A new rail link to Port Hedland is being built for this purpose, criss-crossing the new road system.</p><p>A bit further on is a new airport (called Ginbata, possible an acronym from Gina Reinhart and other consortium members) and we were amazed by its huge car park with 20-30 brand new buses parked ready to collect/deposit FIFO workers.</p><p>But what really peed me off was that after 40km of superb bitumen highway, and just after I'd raised my tyre pressures again for the expected bitumen road conditions to continue, it all suddenly ended and we were back to a rough desert track for the next 100km towards Newman.</p><p>There was no way the new shiny buses could have driven into the mine site so they must all have been trucked in, along with all the other vehicles and equipment to construct the mine.</p><p>We camped just south of Roy Hill in an area just off the "highway".</p><p>14 Sept</p><p>Today we continued to Newman, completing the circuit we started when we reached Newman from the Talawana Track 4 weeks ago, and lest you think Australia is a small place...</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg019O8hGA0b3bikcDGOnlfHHM3rIqAcyfX358FZ9hdhY8LRKinckJkEs_XZz3CDkVSairIgp23vs_lKtZ495OREl74LK0zWksKCDWErcGEWAu30v_VoMVD7WhJ0nzKndMjk6NYIVYi2LhK/" alt="IMG_9225_1.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p> </p><p>At least these are the wildlife on our Coat of Arms, the rest can obviously go to buggery.</p><p>A lot of large mining equipment was moving up the highway...</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CIve2i0XANg/WpCh-ArZTZI/AAAAAAAAVZc/MReX9YPCJ7MiKWonrGfRlk1GnPwpZsUQgCHMYCw/IMG_9235.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9235.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v9WoavfRQCs/WpCin0zfHwI/AAAAAAAAVbM/C8zrmb3gPEI5uSCpjviysSJGvgKwwPvUQCHMYCw/IMG_9238.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9238.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>We refilled our water tanks at the visitor centre, and seeing the scones and jam that the people on the mine tour were enjoying made us hungry so we also stopped for a decadent Tea/Coffee/Scones/Jam and Cream interlude.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Al48VkOWmDI/WpChnHCR_5I/AAAAAAAAVYY/K_J1Gop6eRg5uzeU5bYujO_Ly9gVC7A5wCHMYCw/IMG_9241.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9241.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r6n2oEtdToc/WpCi_gK80YI/AAAAAAAAVcQ/MYrJTZ9_0dcY258z2-lVEW3z0R8Euuh6QCHMYCw/IMG_9242.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9242.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Headed south past the famous Capricorn Roadhouse and the pretty grotty Kumarina Roadhouse.</p><p>Mula Mulla's near Kumarina...</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_iwUq061z3Y/WpCiUK94PGI/AAAAAAAAVaU/bV7sxW9KZCsTa_mW3F-RaG51OOU9_3ArACHMYCw/IMG_9257.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9257.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vJY_dwrJQfY/WpCjfBhLFYI/AAAAAAAAVdo/OUN8rg4zZt0rxGKXhCbwtnUh6H8L6DTTgCHMYCw/IMG_9259.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9259.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Camped south of Kumarina just off the highway to do washing, always an exciting concept.</p><p>15 Sept</p><p>This morning, the washing having dried overnight and successfully harvested, I topped up the rear diff because the pinion seal is leaking, and greased the rear UJ. I would have done more but my grease cartridge expired and I didn't have a spare (left home in too much a rush).</p><p> </p><p>I also adjusted the front wheel alignment to toe-out more (or rather not toe-in so much) and the steering is quite a bit more stable now. So, on the basis that if some is good, then more must be better, in a day or two I'll adjust the tracking a bit more, to achieve perfection in the steering department with our new front tyres.</p><p>Then on to Meekathara for a grease cartridge and water.</p><p>The public loos required a key from the shire offices but I can't think why, maybe to keep people in, not out. They were not the best by far.</p><p>Then down the smooth and lonely gravel road towards Sandstone (only 1 car seen on it). Camped just off the deserted highway in the bush, so silent you can hear the curvature of the earth.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 14pt; color: rgb(38,38,38); background-color: rgb(222,238,244);"><em><strong>Camped just off a deserted highway in the bush,</strong></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 14pt; color: rgb(38,38,38); background-color: rgb(222,238,244);"><em><strong>so silent you can hear the curvature of the earth.</strong></em></span></p><p><strong>16 Sept</strong></p><p>The track south to Sandstone had some interesting features:</p><p>The sides of the road were carpeted in pink flowers which looked like but weren't pigface:</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eL5f53cij6I/WpCikFNUGRI/AAAAAAAAVbA/Daho8vCZ0QkmQtr2oG1MlCqXR_wSPhULACHMYCw/IMG_9255.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9255.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Barlangi Rock, which contrary to appearances was actually created by a huge meteor strike about a billion years ago, give or take a few. According to the interpretative plaque, the 10km wide meteor hit the earth causing the surface rock under ground zero to melt under the "incredible energy of the impact" and a mammoth crater to be formed.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fiCNJkXh-a0/WpCh7pReZiI/AAAAAAAAVZU/AvVyI7dFw7Qm-3JtqxAcS8Vv8UpOMln3ACHMYCw/IMG_9261-9263-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9261-9263-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>The molten rock solidified and over eons of time, certainly more than a weekend, erosion of the surrounding landscape has left the hard core still standing. The surrounding area is covered in "shatter stones", remnants of the original melted rock which as their name suggests shatter under the internal stresses still remaining within them.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rCeFF74Ddwc/WpCjYC4EyRI/AAAAAAAAVdQ/u0KyN4ksEugEt2x1gJlwH1SUCIRQSJxWwCHMYCw/IMG_9273.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9273.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Further along is a rather more recent development: an 1800km vermin proof fence one of the few which is still in use and properly maintained. Originally it was built to keep rabbits out but that was a dismal failure so now it's only a dog fence to keep out dingoes. It's wires are strung so tight you could play music on them.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d4QLd6iAsZ0/WpCh0aN1K5I/AAAAAAAAVY8/Pfu9BX7TUG88x2cGJqC5z_rQQy8fPv7SgCHMYCw/IMG_9277.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9277.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HnnEFQYJAK8/WpCjB5SrlMI/AAAAAAAAVcY/8wyhyUGgXC0Z06G3O8w5XWJEozGUWTysQCHMYCw/IMG_9278.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9278.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Later we happened upon this large perentie ambling across the road. Normally they race off when alarmed but this one just crouched down and declined to move, so we had to blink first and move on. Had we been of a different culture, it would have made a superb meal.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l2-9vnhnhOc/WpCjWImId-I/AAAAAAAAVdM/dW7Rk_RsamooLF-j6Gcc_bvwxNxj058MgCHMYCw/IMG_9284.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9284.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QWvAytlS7fk/WpCiJw-PLfI/AAAAAAAAVZ8/5MYl4-CQYNwE8xSa2PtKkVG4tEr14ud2gCHMYCw/IMG_9289.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9289.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>When we reached the quiet, almost silent small town of Sandstone, something was different. A loudly dressed and voiced lady stood in the road and entreated us to taste her wares. She was Lady Di (no, not the original one) and her business was Lady Di's Pies. She claimed they were the best pies we would ever taste and even quoted Trip Advisor as a source of support.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nZCP1RDHr0Q/WpChdC0GHUI/AAAAAAAAVX8/91dFNTyQteA7DtfJ2HG3t2ZBnVCQX8xBACHMYCw/IMG_9292.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9292.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_OfxNmMjT9k/WpCjRBzLELI/AAAAAAAAVdA/6TWNDzMFeh40Mm3du2A-4F6FdCpeaMfYwCHMYCw/IMG_9293.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9293.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>So we had a pie and cup of tea and whilst they were OK, they weren't the best we'd tasted, rather greasy actually. But Lady Di was certainly a character and and definitely brightened up a quiet Wednesday morning.</p><p>We had a look around Sandstone's other attractions:</p><p>The pub-cum-store International Hotel:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bcKmhVPa4yI/WpChv6d_-EI/AAAAAAAAVYw/zqXxbCZwXnMh4DqRSYZuBw6XCq30ml9tACHMYCw/IMG_9296.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9296.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X9NMnPmrh-0/WpCiPdhiKcI/AAAAAAAAVaI/jO3VcbeCEgMU3UQ7Os0DoC44L2m1hhO_ACHMYCw/IMG_9298.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9298.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>The memorial to Snowy Lewis, a local military character and base operator from our radio network who ran the Sandstone base for several years. We first heard Snowy on the radio in 2002.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QkwX7LA27_s/WpCiMBSkVGI/AAAAAAAAVaA/8s0EshG0zA0s2MivGz5C5Z6Zh7cRoqz9QCHMYCw/IMG_9295.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9295.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>The fine local historical park :</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FkZitpqTu88/WpChrlL6ZeI/AAAAAAAAVYk/29wd3KcthQczttJrYsrCZeePdDlVBw1HQCHMYCw/IMG_9297.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9297.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>After our lunch we drove on to Leinster for some fuel, just in case, and then down the Old Agnew Road, the original highway connecting several small gold mines in the area. These days the track and the small communities are now deserted and disintegrating.</p><p>We camped just of the busy highway after seeing no one for hours, or overnight either.</p><p><strong>17 Sept</strong></p><p>I raised my big Yagi antenna to get a network signal from Leinster 50 km away. As a result of concerns on the Oka website, regarding Universal Joint failures, this morning I greased all 4 UJs and ensured grease was purged from all 4 caps on each. </p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPnEaXqWSVoDwRVZFUpbgMLlLGNVCj8qT0SfXdosBKQhbpSOIsMchmQd6N6MKCWUypPEGyy-RicQRHCFDGQXse5k26pRq1NXCQbFpsG9NmQBZclEbUP4Fekl7aopvKEXgnt6_Rzyp0Ibz9/" alt="IMG_9302_2.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>It was a biting cold wind so I donned my cold weather maintenance gear, despite the sunny, clear blue sky.</p><p>We stopped for lunch at Doyles Well, the location of an olden day hotel complex. There's very little left now, but in its heyday, they had bands and dances, cricket and footy matches and a swimming pool. But with the demise of the local gold industry and difficulties in establishing pastoral industries in the area, the hotel waned and completed closed down in the 1950's. </p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aJdZYlcYL-I/WpCjKam2d6I/AAAAAAAAVcw/wss4PLcp0FcF0DzgXZrbzvF-_Vr3HIeUwCHMYCw/IMG_9311-9312-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9311-9312-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Along the track lower down, Sturt Desert Peas cover the sides of the sides of the road.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PazzIRxbLBQ/WpCiRHBha8I/AAAAAAAAVaM/PmsZOaSCpnQ4GwDbXflhStocFYCZYv_ngCHMYCw/IMG_9322.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9322.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p> </p><p> </p><p>The gravel road surprised us with an unusual section of divided road over a small rise. However, there was a bigger surprise over the top.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WUt7Cgpp62E/WpChVW9KaKI/AAAAAAAAVXk/jF9HQGLiaKYKEGw4TPw8GZs0grCiWJJcACHMYCw/IMG_9324.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9324.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Part way up a large scratch mark on the road suggested something had happened.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IPSK-2UkXwg/WpCjZe26YwI/AAAAAAAAVdY/Qczqm1HAN5cuNWuGl2VNR9ksFL2B4cM9gCHMYCw/IMG_9324-2015-09-6-22-56.jpg" alt="IMG_9324-2015-09-6-22-56.jpg"></span></p><p>Over the top at the end of the scratch mark was a large mine drilling truck parked wonkily.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-krdfjCmpzZU/WpCjMIsXHMI/AAAAAAAAVc0/estbq1QRqMkps07-DNBjTG9cQZ8VgS_ZACHMYCw/IMG_9329.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9329.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AKx-AHzMljc/WpCjPRH0v8I/AAAAAAAAVc8/osgiIuINBJ8m-PVoBRofDug4PRHNYKR8ACHMYCw/IMG_9327.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9327.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT0sehf6O0ZIopo7ZqEqxsWg7OgbRntR2xnLgMRxBGnzX436UMJIkHWHiPBIRo6-TayD_9fgjHqw-qz3CtsYVHCGxSpxx0knaFECVcnFlb8mSntmtMF4dMicJ3rGBHAIsbhzNEDCDe15nr/" alt="IMG_9328.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>We stopped to check that all was OK but the truck was deserted. As I walked around taking a few photos, a smaller truck drew up. It was the youngish owners of the truck who had a mining lease and were moving their drilling truck on to it. However, they had a blowout yesterday which used up their spare wheel and now another tyre had disappeared completely. They'd been into the next "town" to get some help but there was none available.</p><p>They really didn't know what to do next and didn't have the equipment or expertise to fix their problem on a 20 tonne vehicle. We helped them strap up the dragging axle to the chassis in the vain hope they could continue with the tyreless wheel off the ground but we knew that wasn't going to work.</p><p>They didn't really appreciate our help either so we left them crawling the truck into the bush where they'll have to leave it while they acquire another wheel and tyre, and something big to lift the axle with.</p><p>We moved on through the fast disappearing township of Kookynie to Niagara Dam, a largish dam built in the 1890's to service the fast growing township of Kookynie. Sadly as the dam was finished, they found an underground source of water nearer Kookynie so the dam was not needed and never used. And the gold around Kookuynie didn't last long either which accounts for it's slow decline too. All in all a bit of a balls up.</p><p>However, Niagara Dam still remains, and is an excellent picnic and free camping spot.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Kc9YuQF3Wuw/WpChsyvC_ZI/AAAAAAAAVYo/PT77DoX9lAI16mFopO0s99U5wak7so1WgCHMYCw/IMG_9330-9331-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9330-9331-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p><strong>18 Sept</strong></p><p>From Niagara Dam we ventured down to the small but not yet disappearing town of Menzies, and its quirky steel plate statutes all around the town. We spent so long checking emails and reading the news that we didn't take any photos but we have done many times before.</p><p>From Menzies its an easy 150km drive to Kalgoorlie and our favourite but free rubbish-strewn bush campsite.</p><p><strong>19 Sept</strong></p><p>The call of the washing machines could not be ignored, even though our usual laundromat had "Closed" emblazoned on the door. Luckily we found another in nearby Boulder, and while that was doing, I refilled a gas bottle and one diesel tank.</p><p>It was getting late and we wanted to see if our friend Robin was at home at his Oka Workshop in Coolgardie on a Saturday afternoon. He wasn't, but his grandson was there and we had a chat, left a message and took some photos.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BweUWMjoeK0/WpCiW5-NgcI/AAAAAAAAVac/ObTlGl1DNAEeTbic9UqT_mC4Pbs_ddlbACHMYCw/IMG_9338-9339-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9338-9339-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Cruising around the town we discovered Coolgardie is now an RV Friendly town with a free 24 hour RV rest area next to the railway station (which hasn't seen a moving train for many years). We also discovered that tomorrow was "Coolgardie Day", the day of the year when festivities came to town for the young and young at heart. So fitting into one or both of those categories, we stayed in the rest area so as to have an early start.</p><p><strong>20 Sept</strong></p><p>For a town of only about 1000 people they really put on a big display and hundreds of carloads of people had come from all over. The main street (which is about 100m wide) was blocked off the and by 9.00am this morning it was filled with stalls, scary fairground rides (and I was only watching), eateries, displays of veteran cars, and a 200 tonne ore truck neatly angle parked in the main street, as is the law in this town.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g8G0MN8UZHg/WpCh2cszk3I/AAAAAAAAVZE/Cwlq69w8Da46OKVudzAcLNBxV51mjhI5ACHMYCw/IMG_9345.JPG-2015-09-6-22-56.jpg" alt="IMG_9345.JPG-2015-09-6-22-56.jpg"></span></p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ESXuLMfGHrE/WpCia5dsuUI/AAAAAAAAVao/hrQkbEG3s_8a4IGhL2xq4gPR4zfOI6UwACHMYCw/IMG_9342-9343-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9342-9343-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>But for a 200 tonne truck, 2 small plastic chocks under the wheels seemed barely adequate...</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KqEKL42zCRw/WpChlcCi09I/AAAAAAAAVYU/sxziZZ882nkzYoLo1mTeIXhQMzau4Og_ACHMYCw/IMG_9354.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9354.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>It was a bright blue sky sunny day but the wind was bitingly cold. Not Afghan cold you understand but enough to keep your hands in your pockets.</p><p>I felt very sorry for the 2 girls in skimpy bikinis standing on boxes (their money making plan being to entice people to pay for them to dance around a bit) but not sorry enough to loan them my jumper (or take their photo).</p><p>At half time there was a parade including a police band in Scottish kilts (I bet they were cold in parts too) playing the bagpipes, the local girls volunteer firefighters pulling an old fire truck, a pony parade and a drive past of veteran vehicles and Hell's Angels.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O3l58DYwrHg/WpChjqeaNWI/AAAAAAAAVYQ/bRlzVDOiPOYDWLZOFzACYHLnUJ6xbvoewCHMYCw/Screen%252BShot%252B2015-09-20%252Bat%252B8.01.58%252Bpm-2015-09-6-22-56.jpg" alt="Screen%252BShot%252B2015-09-20%252Bat%252B8.01.58%252Bpm-2015-09-6-22-56.jpg"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PPlIYYRlS_c/WpCjbw4RqnI/AAAAAAAAVdg/kVUjLeCD-fA5kPLtT6lzyB5eZ-rEZA1CgCHMYCw/Screen%252BShot%252B2015-09-20%252Bat%252B8.28.33%252Bpm-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="Screen%252BShot%252B2015-09-20%252Bat%252B8.28.33%252Bpm-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yPiYFiy0JYw/WpCipvXkFXI/AAAAAAAAVbQ/zIXgD2sQjykSWS13qJ0hFjETLPTmfgaJQCHMYCw/IMG_9347.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9347.PNG-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>Later the emergency services put on a sobering display of freeing 2 trapped people from a crashed car using the jaws of life to cut open the car and remove the doors and roof before carefully freeing the passengers.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CqMlUXuUnr4/WpChZFA6ztI/AAAAAAAAVXw/T7o3-KJv_5ARgyeN8-b0jCi4hu_cBYTcwCHMYCw/IMG_9349-9350-2015-09-6-22-56.png" alt="IMG_9349-9350-2015-09-6-22-56.png"></span></p><p>The "Avenger" was the favourite ride and we were surprised that there was no vomit trail as the passengers alighted...</p><p> </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6zzuRP4ivmE/WpChbf9iogI/AAAAAAAAVX4/Qukg_7xvHuoVUsnYphMSRBIvai_ugWMMACHMYCw/Screen%252BShot%252B2015-09-20%252Bat%252B8.05.21%252Bpm-2015-09-6-22-56.jpg" alt="Screen%252BShot%252B2015-09-20%252Bat%252B8.05.21%252Bpm-2015-09-6-22-56.jpg"></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-05_VvhrLEb4/WpCiCbWuG4I/AAAAAAAAVZo/FJIzYHttRogu0IdpirQB9t6XLKUiKYiRgCHMYCw/Screen%252BShot%252B2015-09-20%252Bat%252B8.23.16%252Bpm-2015-09-6-22-56.jpg" alt="Screen%252BShot%252B2015-09-20%252Bat%252B8.23.16%252Bpm-2015-09-6-22-56.jpg"></span></p><p>There was also wood chopping, bands of varying quality, a Maori song and dance display and a fire eater.</p><p>But by mid afternoon we had had enough fun and excitement so we returned to the Oka and left town to beat the rush.</p><p>We are camped tonight near Wiggiemooltha, (yes Virginia, there is a place called Wiggiemooltha) halfway between Coolgardie and Norseman.</p><p>As we are heading east next on the Eyre Highway, that will be the subject of our next blog entry (or blogentary, a word I thought I'd just made up, but sadly someone got there first, just like "thinkative" and "thingleness" which are 16 century words).</p><p>Reports of our 2015 travels are continued in these blog sections:</p><p><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233); text-decoration: underline;">Home to Ningaloo</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233); text-decoration: underline;">Newman to Ningaloo</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233); text-decoration: underline;">Ningaloo Northwards and then Southwards</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0,0,233); text-decoration: underline;">East across the Eyre Highway</span></p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-29955609832788266842015-08-29T10:46:00.013+09:302018-01-05T10:40:18.056+10:30WA Trip 2015 - Newman to Ningaloo<p>Welcome back, this is a continuation of our 2015 WA trip blog from Newman onwards, until I get tired of editing that is...</p><p><strong>22 Aug 2015</strong></p><p>So we left Mt Robinson campsite heading north towards Auski Roadhouse, now renamed Munjina Roadhouse, and then west towards Tom Price another important mining town in the Pilbara.</p><p>The Great Northern Highway passes through the magnificent Munjina Gorge after which the Auski Roadhouse is now named and there is an excellent lookout/camping area at Togloninni, named for one of the surveyors of the route though the hills.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q0Gsw2VT05Y/VeGLh_8pO2I/AAAAAAAAPos/mB5rGtg89fk/s1600/IMG_8548.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bZDh65JNGqo/WkyAedg4OYI/AAAAAAAASpo/OEyIPHXgqugvkKQ8l9J7aMhbtGswZ0qngCHMYCw/IMG_8548.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8548.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Snx9EBZs2l0/VeGLh-GcJpI/AAAAAAAAPoo/HMiN-2P4ESo/s1600/IMG_8552.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HPecWySW-bQ/WkyA4V_LOoI/AAAAAAAASq8/LzaMhnJQU0IyW26RoEwNWlSdePGpXuKXwCHMYCw/IMG_8552.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8552.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>Auski/Munjina Roadhouse is real Aussie icon, with a forecourt as big as the MCG and parking for dozens of 4 trailer road trains, and you wouldn't believe the dust they can make at even 0.001kph with their 86 wheels.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8p-LSdbFH20/VeF9iRjhkqI/AAAAAAAAPoY/dA2v4QFdeOQ/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-08-29+at+6.52.31+pm.jpg"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VyuFvfklaco/WkyBROdAecI/AAAAAAAASsI/E-w6-bxW4H0lUUt8kShhsQ8ritePWaB_ACHMYCw/Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-29%252Bat%252B6.52.31%252Bpm-2015-08-29-10-46.jpg" alt="Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-29%252Bat%252B6.52.31%252Bpm-2015-08-29-10-46.jpg"></a></p><p>From there we could have headed for Tom Price via the Karajini National Park but we've done that twice before and although the gorges are spectacular, it's usually packed with French and German backpackers in "Wicked" campervans.</p><p>So instead we took an equally scenic but less travelled and partially gravel route west from Auski Roadhouse which runs north of the Hamersley Range via Wittenoom.</p><p>The approaches to Wittenoom look spectacular to the south.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VXmFJ6R1YB4/VeGZ2czlERI/AAAAAAAAPpI/kMZwgA7VM80/s1600/IMG_8561.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y0EV_fuODgE/WkyBB1fgekI/AAAAAAAASrY/n0C3Utd1NpoT2LLqc-ySuTU72zjDHLhBwCHMYCw/IMG_8561.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8561.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sq17FoZOdes/VeGZ2PQHeKI/AAAAAAAAPpQ/O-6fKoCInHg/s1600/IMG_8573.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kXMV2DApQHY/WkyBAILxiNI/AAAAAAAASrQ/VjNOhGtKlcU20aie0gEAuvB3nQwCEbyygCHMYCw/IMG_8573.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8573.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>Wittenoom has some very nasty connotations as the source of asbestosis amongst its miners and their families. What remains is now a ghost town stuck in a 1970's time warp with mostly abandoned streets, shops and houses, with all their possessions, cars, children's toys etc. still left where they were last used. There appears to be a very few hardy (excuse the unintended and bad taste pun) residents remaining although how they scrape a living is a mystery.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4Mg4pwrZ5Lw/VeGZ18TU6LI/AAAAAAAAPpM/PsqsisQ3VIk/s1600/IMG_8575.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xfzLcJ0j_6Q/WkyA6vzju-I/AAAAAAAASrA/3VULcHSZOMQAgCCcq35Oq8wfMNuHoFktQCHMYCw/IMG_8575.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8575.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The main street in what used to be a thriving outback town </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBq3RoPwhLSDIYeBO23kwHAeQOufGHQk6pRV_i65eqR1XzwMTqyfAOg2UqJG4H-iS0S-A0buaSvKk_FvMDlyPCjduqBZJKx8GeMqrEFo59YLQUi8fL2geRqjKJRBy4Ag5Hyu7aFVlYR3jd/s1600/IMG_8576.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F_6FvBxfXmo/WkyBS3_SAdI/AAAAAAAASsM/XEc_UGhzASca2-_-Av-0YKV7dlbc1Rq8gCHMYCw/IMG_8576.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8576.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The Wittenoom Gem Shop</em></span></p><p>Ironically, Wittenoom Gorge is reputed to be one of the most scenic in the range but access, whilst not restricted, is certainly not recommended with dire warning signs posted along the highway warning of the perils of asbestos, and if you enter the gorge there are signs with skull and crossbones on them strongly recommending the used of breathing apparatus if venturing further.</p><p>We aren't that stupid of course and didn't go past those signs, we just did a loop around the abandoned township and out again. We had met a Kiwi at Jupiter Well who had gone into the gorge and confirmed its scenic beauty, but he wasn't worried about asbestosis since it takes 20 years to develop and he didn't think he had that long anyway.</p><p>Further on and we come back into mining territory. However the scenery remains much the same.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q3vv-gACzg4/VeGgmjrYuLI/AAAAAAAAPpw/E3zcalEOaPs/s1600/IMG_8590-8592_2.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JfuWsX5asPg/WkyBFvG7YgI/AAAAAAAASrk/DKLVpeXQn1MUW08R77BJ2N1qca9Ohr9owCHMYCw/IMG_8590-8592_2-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8590-8592_2-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>The Rio Tinto Gorge is a narrow single lane winding track though some steep sided hills. ("Call up on Channel 40 to announce your presence").</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0_XI59QyGLc/VeGf7IQnUhI/AAAAAAAAPpo/5zvCyaLMxfA/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-2015.jpg"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UkW0ZFydGIo/WkyBivh33ZI/AAAAAAAASs8/uKX50YoLOUwD2SUzPw8pD72jAu3ttNsoACHMYCw/Screen%252BShot%252B2015-2015-2015-08-29-10-46.jpg" alt="Screen%252BShot%252B2015-2015-2015-08-29-10-46.jpg"></a></p><p>Several years ago we were alerted to an unadvertised camping area used occasionally by mining people which we also called Rio Tinto Gorge since it's just past the real gorge. It's nestled in a beautiful bush setting of spinifex and snappy gums, and although huge mining roads are replacing the small outback tracks, the camping area remains secluded and untouched. Even has a 5 bar Telstra service. So of course that was our campsite for the night.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qYARixcCt6Q/VeGgmpweftI/AAAAAAAAPp0/FXT_4RZVKUE/s1600/IMG_8605-8607-1_1.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeRNxCHTUAnkmq23nAWRPg3UtkexHrKwWgC2cBPiZBWQ0oSsPBy7-u_rvcbxwwIdKqXQAQeOjcgfKS21laXArc-UO0tp602qOPEX_NC4rNBVEroLmM22VYhM_hJ8vhMnHLsel6Zk9JG1ar/" alt="IMG_8605-8607-1_1-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p><strong>23 Aug 2015</strong></p><p>From Rio Tinto Gorge it's only 100km or so to Tom Price, a pleasant green town with all the facilities an outback mining town should have, footy oval, RSL club, a small row of shops, hospital and police station. However, being a Sunday, and being in WA, everything was shut, even the public loos. It pays to plan ahead in WA towns.</p><p>It did have the obligatory ore truck though.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--FErsWIN8VY/VeI_mWsvKJI/AAAAAAAAPqk/rby5b25A6Xk/s1600/IMG_8618.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0zlbrJNi0hw/WkyAyIBS40I/AAAAAAAASqw/0R-7iL_4K0EtiHZgPcVRdw7RESGwaCx4wCHMYCw/IMG_8618.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8618.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>Fortunately they hadn't turned off the water supply so we refilled our tanks, drove around the green town and headed south to Paraburdoo. It's not the shortest route west so we've never done that before but it was a really pleasant scenic drive. A bitumen road and even better the Halfway Bridge rest area alongside a waterhole about 50km south with, wait for it, a free WiFi service! Never seen that before in a remote location, and it worked, I tried it. So that was today's lunch spot.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Hx0umsj0wpw/VeJAOThF5yI/AAAAAAAAPq4/Q-dacZCwiL0/s1600/IMG_8620.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x-FIoE69V28/WkyBJef9W3I/AAAAAAAASrw/mO9CoxapOqkbujJVzm_9J1I8NRIT_Q0rQCHMYCw/IMG_8620.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8620.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G7lcQLjRi_M/VeI_mIBDBeI/AAAAAAAAPqo/L-JA1-5UJQE/s1600/IMG_8621.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aYF7RzdKljU/WkyBZptr5BI/AAAAAAAASsg/qk4vB_WERkgdcxjCtp-ChHK6OvACMYqxwCHMYCw/IMG_8621.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8621.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>Paraburdoo is a neatly laid out town with streets on a grid pattern and also quite green, with similar but smaller facilities to Tom Price, and in both towns, the huge mining operations are almost invisible from the town, and also still being Sunday everything was shut.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7U_A6fZpADY/VeI_k-gBZxI/AAAAAAAAPqc/7XKrXPD7R5A/s1600/IMG_8625.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HK6podLI6NU/WkyBOgQaBaI/AAAAAAAASr8/pfiPGZI131ooEUCv4sEW3gIOFo-DxRLCwCHMYCw/IMG_8625.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8625.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>After a quick drive around the town which was notable for its lack of traffic but lots of kids roaring around on bikes, an unusual sight these days, we continued west towards Nanutarra Roadhouse on the North West Coastal Highway, 350km away.</p><p>The road parallels the Hardey River for many km and we located a track down to small campsite near a water hole, so we took advantage of it to camp for the night.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Dg6GCVTabe4/VeI_o2xRzEI/AAAAAAAAPq0/RhHxLmvuCC4/s1600/IMG_8626.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hEs6jVjwCK0/WkyAgeivdYI/AAAAAAAASps/O1JtgYzKtfkkhHP5mxJk1yg-uhMwkUODQCHMYCw/IMG_8626.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8626.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>We sat and bird watched for a couple of hours and then while cooking dinner we heard a car arrive. It was a pleasant young French couple who set up camp just behind of us. Bugga, solitude banished, and he even borrowed some supa-glue to mend his shoe.</p><p>Then another car came down the track, this time 4 young German girls in a Commodore and a tent who parked in front of us, after we had to move our table and chairs for them to squeeze past. Now we were fully trapped.</p><p>It seems to be a feature of the European character to have to be near people, it's happened to us before, whereas Aussies would never intrude on someone else's space. J thinks its a case of agoraphobia, fear of open spaces. Personally I think is was agriphobia, fear of agricultural machinery.</p><p>Anyway we managed to get though the night and the visitors were very pleasant, especially in their shorts and tee shirts, but we do value our solitude and space.</p><p><strong>24 Aug 2015</strong></p><p>The road to Nanutarra. It was a long but pleasant drive with more traffic than expected, then it is a supply route to mining towns.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kwUS5swgw-U/VeJMi7NVGVI/AAAAAAAAPrM/9UxpivXuu60/s1600/IMG_8639.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Vr4BFnToFRo/WkyBbRPTxUI/AAAAAAAASsk/akI2WvjRvgQU6kg-n0MFHK0WqtUWdcnswCHMYCw/IMG_8639.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8639.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>On arrival at the roadhouse, we called Ningaloo Station to check the status of campsites along the beach facing Ningaloo Reef. They had plenty, but warned that the drive in was rough and corrugated and we might not get there in one day.</p><p>So we checked into Giralia Station Stay for a night, there being no roadside places to camp in this barren, flat area of the country, treeless partly due to frequent cyclones which prevents trees growing more than 2 m high and partly because it's semi-desert anyway.</p><p>We've stayed at Giralia Station before (and also the very similar Bullara Station nearby) and it hasn't changed. It was cheap ($20), dusty but very average and our evening's entertainment was watching the antics of beetles as they launched themselves at any light coloured object and then lay on their backs for ages, gasping and trying to right themselves.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vwdzR8rJ8xM/VeJMi1ZXFeI/AAAAAAAAPrI/igJgfjeaUlY/s1600/IMG_8645.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vD-tPNL2yeA/WkyAmLRdp_I/AAAAAAAASqA/xqA6IgcpghwCPfgbSGS1mo5qEtG9EDudQCHMYCw/IMG_8645.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8645.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>We captured 3 of them and watched them under a glass trying to escape. Strangely when I removed the glass they stayed much as they were, apparently unaware of their new found freedom.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2o9QXsq6QHE/VeJMjUTjX2I/AAAAAAAAPrU/KeFcNDdl-ms/s1600/IMG_8646.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-svlDhlzsNag/WkyAh4xaOsI/AAAAAAAASpw/D0sIcV9XJ3YN6ZoWu7Fj6JiwvAfCqdccwCHMYCw/IMG_8646.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8646.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>Such was our stay at Giralia Station.</p><p><strong>25 Aug 2015</strong></p><p>We arrive at Ningaloo Station. And they were right, the track in, which is owned by the local shire, was diabolically bad, very rough limestone and corrugated sand. The 32km took well over an hour and then we had another 12km up the coast on a similar track to the campsites around Lefroy Bay.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TmlMKrZ1iEU/VeJqcX6cV0I/AAAAAAAAPro/9CK4F3vqRPU/s1600/IMG_8647.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K5YGlPpZPjg/WkyA8S1eoWI/AAAAAAAASrE/_OZ60UV4aC8Nbsd4ZR0bIQS5CDIuaXABACHMYCw/IMG_8647.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8647.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>A CYA sign erected by the local shire council</em></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);">But the welcome sight of the blue/green sea and the waves crashing on the reef one km out to sea made it all worthwhile.</span></p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-L6eKMD-kP1c/VeJqnhVv_sI/AAAAAAAAPsQ/zSf4UOZYieI/s1600/IMG_8681-8684_1.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Xs3m98q93W4/WkyArntKZqI/AAAAAAAASqY/FkqEMljEouUT2qvgUQbB0xD44nsRg0nrwCHMYCw/IMG_8681-8684_1-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8681-8684_1-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>For the next few days we didn't move, except to walk up and down the beach, swim and snorkel on the coral which was close to shore and watch the wildlife.</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t5CvmcxAuX4/VeJqdtqMOrI/AAAAAAAAPrw/JaIoG7kAu4M/s1600/IMG_8657-8658-3_1.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3-g_WBLwvs8/WkyAt0Yct6I/AAAAAAAASqg/hUZSWDYQ6RA3Fuhl2brZuNXcL-tVkdUpgCHMYCw/IMG_8657-8658-3_1-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8657-8658-3_1-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>We've seen turtles, whales breaching beyond the reef, a couple of dolphins cruising against the flow of the water in the lagoon and a seagull, actually lots of birds, cormorants, pelicans, plovers, finches, and several other species hitherto unknown to birdie science.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-52SuLLcM74U/VeJqnncB1cI/AAAAAAAAPsM/QNqpYX9tFw4/s1600/IMG_8688.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ifwuo8hhCEA/WkyBDlIC-zI/AAAAAAAASrc/OCYvF2bLbeAdawX4EttPVkIBXzwoP7vGwCHMYCw/IMG_8688.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8688.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Janet has really mastered the art of snorkelling without drowning</em></span></p><p>Janet who was previously not a good swimmer has really mastered the art of snorkelling without drowning. And I have almost mastered the art of putting flippers on without falling over and looking a total clown.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L-tvLYCCsE0/VeJqgxW9C8I/AAAAAAAAPsA/cFMAoXhlh2c/s1600/IMG_8664_1.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mWjhNWklZeg/WkyBe5atJ3I/AAAAAAAASsw/QX2TNauEb4w753t4npGbtYLO2eTclFuxwCHMYCw/IMG_8664_1.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8664_1.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Each evening it's obligatory to sit on the sand and watch the sunset:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-89A5NCHkjok/VeJqe7_02sI/AAAAAAAAPr4/BXk0lMOQ818/s1600/IMG_8663.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u4bwxq0G2cc/WkyAzuNn4-I/AAAAAAAASq0/-nOEErcHiFsWTTdwGYtVEXf2el1NX4AvACHMYCw/IMG_8663.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8663.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>When not undertaking aquatic pursuits, I have rigged up my Yagi antenna, pointed it northwards to who knows where, from whence I can get a 3 bar signal when before there was none, and hence we have a fairly good internet connection:</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EEChQvmrZvk/VeJqnIYmUWI/AAAAAAAAPsI/MD9JTTZ040g/s1600/IMG_8712.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SseWXa6wvMA/WkyBU79zPNI/AAAAAAAASsU/5A6Q8ST3SZQEIA_4rM7LR4mV-1RNV64JgCHMYCw/IMG_8712.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8712.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>One day we ventured forth to charge the batteries and warm the shower water towards the ruins of a Norwegian whaling station. We never quite got there (it's only rusting junk anyway, puh) as the sand dunes got a bit too soft for our heavy Oka and without backup support, it was one risk too many. We did see some spectacular sandscapes though:</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t4sTlxi8vUg/VeJqs3mMTxI/AAAAAAAAPsw/v1-tKnnmzyY/s1600/IMG_8715.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NJtp6Tw-bRo/WkyAblY2eAI/AAAAAAAASpg/ZI9rBAEeJsUr_vrrswu4VCwajzDh4Z3pgCHMYCw/IMG_8715.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8715.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QxDvpByawYs/VeKOEkEQ47I/AAAAAAAAPuU/eRrbF3AHmZA/s1600/IMG_8714.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oCs-eRh2XQ4/WkyAoFvBjKI/AAAAAAAASqI/68tthb-df9QNsSOUS24Ml_WsTLpst7olwCHMYCw/IMG_8714.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8714.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QX_l3Bp_ACg/VeKM5MZpO8I/AAAAAAAAPuI/EOZpCNbvmd8/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-08-30+at+2.16.57+pm.jpg"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P-CEw-OQdrg/WkyApHBZh4I/AAAAAAAASqQ/x2GgXNUdgH8g-3HILvZrdvKtdQt1pkZmACHMYCw/Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-30%252Bat%252B2.16.57%252Bpm-2015-08-29-10-46.jpg" alt="Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-30%252Bat%252B2.16.57%252Bpm-2015-08-29-10-46.jpg"></a></p><p>While watching the sea, a couple of dolphins cruised by:</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KwB--aCmPEM/VeJqrJSxMpI/AAAAAAAAPsk/SrFIlphnjD0/s1600/IMG_8744-8746.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HdZld6nFQKY/WkyAutxDWyI/AAAAAAAASqk/r4ZpUZ6eiBUQhgzSXO3WmB_fFWUPw7EfwCHMYCw/IMG_8744-8746-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8744-8746-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>And so did a dog:</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEift_z5D0atqzJitzWfRozWHyaJLt8ZVGj_mMj4Tr9K0yHJcuyepqvgkxTPgT3WPh607IzMbrTSPvkE2953DxmezrfmrIvDS9YAmqHcGtEe97S5ou6Ern9s5-RrfIOwsbrj6VyhAZcU8IYS/s1600/IMG_8680.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--PLXoKGRb_E/WkyAojYeQPI/AAAAAAAASqM/GpZDAkoOm1w72yTbXBOcYg7pYy-bR0FXACHMYCw/IMG_8680.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8680.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Doing the Titanic: "My Dog Will Go On"</em></span></p><p>Last night was a special treat for us, since it's one of those few days per year when the moon rises at almost the same time as the sun sets. Difficult to capture both on camera together though:</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oklikahJbTQ/VeKDeL19rXI/AAAAAAAAPtI/E28Q7wefo3U/s1600/IMG_8752_1.PNG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix9xwp4dV8ZNasraztMd0XucfS5Rhru-o34kljJieeeNVll2hMsaKDk83E3C7KFuvNTg2HynJMtWQ9FXg40RjeSOFhq9y350H4UWXCX3-PgeIgs7QetF3cOR4CjGIsFqgo5jQ1g5cVqXYD/" alt="IMG_8752_1.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ik4RQqWNAtA/VeKDfJa8-uI/AAAAAAAAPtQ/n11t0N25X6Q/s1600/IMG_8763.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9DYI6dPJjrI/WkyBdv7bMMI/AAAAAAAASss/I7_J9JbGPAQXlfyYySWg9SrHhWr73W51QCHMYCw/IMG_8763.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8763.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>Without a bit of help, that is:</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1EWOwIKt4nk/VeKXFi_raVI/AAAAAAAAPuk/sArrp_jbgfI/s1600/DoubleTake+Result-2_1.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oV11VRVAvtI/WkyBjiyFRMI/AAAAAAAAStA/WjcMeppaefYglEMXeviAyPDt5LMqLty7gCHMYCw/DoubleTake%252BResult-2_1-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="DoubleTake%252BResult-2_1-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>Tomorrow (31 Aug) we'll pack up and leave Ningaloo Station after 6 days relaxing on the sea shore, for the heady delights of Exmouth. We've done about all we can do here and we are running low on essential supplies, although we do have enough cake for another month.</p><p>Then we have 4 days camping booked in the Cape Range National Park where the facilities are better and the coral is much more abundant and easier to access. There are also different sights to see if the weather or conditions are not clement. Here, with the tracks so rough, there's not much else to do after swimming, snorkelling and walking (and eating and drinking of course).</p><p><strong>31 Aug 2015</strong></p><p>Exiting Ningaloo Station was as slow and corrugated as the track in but we did get to see the old lighthouse high on a hill/sand dune. It was in use until an earthquake destroyed the lighting section in 1931 and was replaced by an automated system.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9BK0dRKJQVg/VewsRGF-5ZI/AAAAAAAAPvA/UfUKgt1aOMo/s1600/IMG_8796.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x-RnqTqlkkQ/WkyA91eM6cI/AAAAAAAASrI/4ECwc2kKSc8CMu0ZFTQ5GJ0T6fm_oAIDwCHMYCw/IMG_8796.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8796.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P6GydLMOkug/VewsQlknixI/AAAAAAAAPu4/tR1N-hoV49E/s1600/IMG_8803.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XlJxHJekaVw/WkyBTvkBVPI/AAAAAAAASsQ/ajXpju8k8c4LPE8d2_m67sDmlkFaapL1QCHMYCw/IMG_8803.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8803.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>At Ningaloo Station homestead, where we called in to collect our bond money for the camp area key, a pair of sea eagles was nesting on the top of a tall communications tower.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cPFMJvPc-lY/Vewse7wSPyI/AAAAAAAAPvI/UQTHgC77XqM/s1600/IMG_8811.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZPyj8rAYFpE/WkyAkhsRUCI/AAAAAAAASp8/LJDOKRHBrlgQUkVp2N_RXL3EAHzbo-bgQCHMYCw/IMG_8811.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8811.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rRKZxj5cg8E/Vewse_Yd4jI/AAAAAAAAPvM/twes0gTDypM/s1600/IMG_8815.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LUeGiL5HHyg/WkyAcjg8mjI/AAAAAAAASpk/pq97KT3bGyMOkx9pR4cIr35LDUjOeJ2xgCHMYCw/IMG_8815.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8815.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p><strong>Legal Stuff about Ningaloo Station</strong></p><p>Ningaloo Station is a leasehold property of 50,000 hectares of sheep and goat farming, owned by the Lefroy family for the past 80 year. With 50km of frontage on to beautiful Ningaloo Reef beaches, the WA state government is attempting to excise the Ningaloo reef section to create some sort of tourism venture and despite a written undertaking from earlier state governments not to do this, they have now refused the grant the leaseholders a renewal of the lease, which has just expired. </p><p>There are fears that government ownership of the coastal strip will ruin the current beachside camping venture built up by the Lefroy family over many years, with access restrictions, higher costs and tourist “facilities” which current users don’t want or need. Having been there for 6 days I can see the attraction of this unspoilt and undeveloped section of coastline, one of the few left in the country still in its pristine state.</p><p>A high court challenge is currently underway to prevent the WA government from proceeding with it’s high-handed plans, and the leaseholders are fairly confident in the outcome. Goliath doesn’t always win and anyway, the cash strapped WA government may not be able to raise the cash to either defend the high court action or the fund the tourism development itself. Let’s hope the judiciary see the unfairness in the situation and come down on the side of sense based on the prior undertakings, and what’s best for the environment, not government heavy-handedness.</p><p><strong>Shopping in Exmouth</strong></p><p>After the legal discussion, we drove up to Exmouth to do some necessary shopping and then around the tip of North West Cape to Yardie Caravan park to use their laundry. We’d stayed there before and it was quite friendly and satisfactory and close to the Cape Range National Park where we’d booked four nights from tomorrow.</p><p>We set up our $2 bargain pack of 2 plastic Chinese mouse traps behind the vegetable drawer, where we thought the mouse may be residing, baited them with some stale bread and went about our business.</p><p><strong>A Boo-Boo in the Loo</strong></p><p>Maybe because it was the last day of winter or possibly due to last night’s perigeion moon, either way I made a bit of a boo-boo later on, and it was most embarrassing.</p><p>I went for my late night loo visit, and after being there a few minutes some other people came into the empty ablution block. No problem, it often happens, until they started talking in female tones. A sudden dawning…</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);">Did I really come into the ladies loo?</span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><strong>What sort of offence had I committed?</strong></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><strong>WHAT THE HELL SHOULD I DO NOW?</strong></span></p><p>They started gabbling on in Franglais while splashing and showering and cleaning teeth, going to the loo etc, and all I could do was keep very quiet and wait until they’d all gone. But then someone else came in and chatted so there was another delay.</p><p>Finally, after about 3/4 hour, things quietened down a bit and I slipped out past a girl still cleaning her teeth, only to find that the other person who came in had been Janet. She was wondering where I had got to and came to check on me. She had a great and continuous laugh at my expense once I blurted out my error and I shall never mis-visit the communal ablutions ever again (or at least never tell anyone).</p><p><strong>1 Sept 2015</strong></p><p>First day of spring and having made tea, cooked the breakfast, put the bed away, done the dishes etc, I was accused of calling Janet a harridan because she wanted the shirt off my back for washing.</p><p>Well, after consulting a thesaurus, I discovered that the words “shrew, virago, harpy, termagant, ogress, gorgon, martinet, tartar, spitfire, battleaxe, witch or even an Xanthippe” could also have been inferred, when all I actually meant was that I’d be cold with no shirt on. I shall be more careful with my choice of vocabulary in future in the company of English teachers, but I think things are more even now?</p><p>Our mouse never made an appearance or hearance during the night and the traps were unsprung this morning, so we assume that the rough tracks from Ningaloo Station were too much for it and that, plus the access denied by our plastic boxes, caused the mouse to decamp for easier pursuits.</p><p><strong>Arrival at Tulki Beach Campsite</strong></p><p>After the purchase of a $4.90 loaf of frozen bread from the CP shop, we checked in at the National Park. If you keep records of such things we were in Site 10 at Tulki Beach camping area. We set up our extensive camping site, involving erecting the table and 2 chairs, and went for a snorkel at Oyster Stacks, one of the best places to see coral and fishes, but only around high tide since it’s rocky and difficult getting in and out of the water at other times, and fortuitously we had arrived at high tide.</p><p>Very windy today and for the past few days. We even had to don jumpers and leggings for our happy hour with the other motley collection of fellow campers. And those campers numbers were tripled by the late arrival of a bus load of teenagers on a school trip. Lots of noisy giggling big-breasted school girls and lanky youths plus a few teachers/leaders. Rather them than me. Girls tents to one side, boys tents to the other and teachers tent in the middle. Yeah, right, as if that’s going to make a difference.</p><p>Puts some pressure on the single loo though.</p><p><strong>2 Sept 2015</strong></p><p>School kids up early and off in the bus for snorkelling, sightseeing or I don’t really care what, at least solitude has returned, until they do tonight. Like a flock of corellas, raucously noisy in the morning and evening, but silent during the day.</p><p>Did a long walk on our beach today (Tulki Beach), not the best looking but plenty of interesting birds, footprints to identify, shells to turn over and things to kick around.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_gJ0IvBo79dpm-8FS7V8KoLn_6uChuRez8U2n_V3cswVZ_zpRvkNQAriJJbkernVheH-vHDsaygIiuc5i2j-Z076WjhLwmx1v0Acn-BkI7O5sDHEIRL1g25tSl4WSdUg72BHPb8kUJtpi/s1600/IMG_8829-8830-1.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJRkmQyr10OvLlmEc70dAW52w-2EK3mk1wwwR5CwZmbYCjO1RNY2dXByZTZTR6oZikDOsOv3lvc-KH3wDFxjZgQ4HpVswpUIn8IOYSupKDh8FcUq3-hrRMujjZmPVVPD9vpqhF2kpRv-6u/" alt="IMG_8829-8830-1-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rDDT8sh4eAA/VewtZxoVP0I/AAAAAAAAPvg/GajicLu8eiQ/s1600/IMG_8845.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lNNY4hV1e-o/WkyAmtQx8xI/AAAAAAAASqE/Mx58SKvO9zU1ZW7OM7KHihqRr0bAwfDrgCHMYCw/IMG_8845.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8845.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HU8Tdg-gAlc/VewtafdZsOI/AAAAAAAAPvo/TdzuD3w_jqU/s1600/IMG_8855-8856.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7MFlL3MCjFY/WkyAqdq81RI/AAAAAAAASqU/8laOLqIAnfIgXprBVhCgQ09KASYIxuWGwCHMYCw/IMG_8855-8856-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8855-8856-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>The only foot prints on the beach apart from ours were kangaroo prints. We’ve seen roos on the beach here before, they come down to the water’s edge at dusk and seem to nibble the algae off the stones and rocks, must taste like a mouthful of soy sauce.</p><p>The wind has dropped a bit today and it’s a bit hotter, so sun-block and hats for tonight’s happy hour.</p><p>We did a visit to the visitor centre, which is what they’re for, had an ice cream (who said WA’s economy is in trouble? Can’t be at their prices) followed by an exploratory walk into Mandu Mandu Gorge. We planned the full 3km walk for the morning when it’s not so hot and the sun will be behind us.</p><p><strong>Mandu Mandu Beach</strong></p><p>Later we did a nature walk on Mandu Mandu south beach which revealed a lot of clams, crabs and other interesting things in the rock pools at very low tide. But then we had to rush back for happy hour.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I_FsmOWA_wM/VewtcjHj6kI/AAAAAAAAPv0/v2CedIf9AQQ/s1600/IMG_8876.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vV6Vo1z7eD8/WkyBLeQvG8I/AAAAAAAASr0/4n1h_khMU5MDknP0As4fdUJDhw7Q0N5VgCHMYCw/IMG_8876.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8876.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Clams underwater</em></span></p><p>A very annoying fly got into the car as we were cooking dinner and then out-smarted me by landing on the fly swat. When you’re a fly in danger that’s probably the safest place to land.</p><p><strong>3 Sept 2015</strong></p><p>Calmer, warmer start to the morning, but I still don’t know what we’re doing today.</p><p>Called in on Channels 1 and 2 on our HF radio this morning since overseas interference (read Indonesian fishermen on our frequencies) was very strong. Got though to Meekathara Base to confirm all was OK.</p><p>This morning we did the Mandu Mandu Gorge walk/clamber. It’s a beautiful area full with billions of glistening white rocks and red cliffs but strangely it was a lot tougher than it looks, more of a rock scramble than a walk, and a lot tougher that the last time we did it. Are there sharper and steeper rocks this time, or are we in some way not the mountaineers we used to be?</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yRJfAPJOv1Q/VewuNli03TI/AAAAAAAAPwM/enbkWVhcTDU/s1600/IMG_8881-8883.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tjXIdVETqz4/WkyBHKlQ6tI/AAAAAAAASro/tfWUlWYc9BAd6RQ2NZsgeOE4q5TTxu6EACHMYCw/IMG_8881-8883-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8881-8883-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zmO_HyOqJqY/VewuLij3BxI/AAAAAAAAPv8/h95CNG0D3-k/s1600/IMG_8888.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nqLucq5ZQRo/WkyBhNHIVtI/AAAAAAAASs0/PPgwpbWuXxUnoJBDaBfQr0n2OLxB1dIpwCHMYCw/IMG_8888.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8888.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>She didn't look quite so happy after the climb to the summit</em></span></p><p>Part way along, successive walkers have created white rock shrines using some of the billions of white rocks and we felt compelled to continue the tradition. After the next big flood, it will all have to start again.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W9mJAu_Fzx4/VewuNknDUxI/AAAAAAAAPwE/jSjqYEuIub0/s1600/IMG_8889-8891.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lc3JZsmhZCA/WkyBcRxa3nI/AAAAAAAASso/f14IjrXEHJo5QdfxKiq4qAIadP5aDLjpACHMYCw/IMG_8889-8891-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8889-8891-2015-08-29-10-46.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a6qTucRr7mY/WkyA11j_UHI/AAAAAAAASq4/6crJXxJdUcsA2PXkz0Yd2mCqINkM5v6gQCHMYCw/IMG_8893.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8893.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>Anyway the views of the gorge leading out to the shore as we returned breathless and aching were spectacular.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rr-rttMtJ1w/VewuQjYuAzI/AAAAAAAAPwc/InltyMV_BVQ/s1600/IMG_8906-8908.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kNR4o0eBCkk/WkyBMUfcd-I/AAAAAAAASr4/ilHaXN6TWzAGcKhk8VC1Wm5DbL6DqDlgwCHMYCw/IMG_8906-8908-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8906-8908-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>After regaining our strength and lunch, we drove down to Yardie Creek, where in 2002, we came across the dry sand bar coming up from Coral Bay on a coastal track. Right now that same creek crossing is covered by 3m of sea water after some high tides had rearranged the sand bar, which is a regular occurrence every few years.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-868VXWgn9ng/Vewu3y3wxkI/AAAAAAAAPws/iR52eNg4bWQ/s1600/IMG_8918-8919.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nnyyYWMzJhw/WkyAkCibJGI/AAAAAAAASp4/ZiNDGykIMOYId3jEyfo7d8ozN9WVEwwJgCHMYCw/IMG_8918-8919-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8918-8919-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>We drove across this creek in 2002, now a large boat is required</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nULwnilld6Q/Vewu4ZhvXlI/AAAAAAAAPww/hdUaFZ6ANaY/s1600/IMG_8921-8923.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u4LynABkZAg/WkyBiICHUjI/AAAAAAAASs4/sK58o_nVazkZZOYv6qCa44ni3EUgS-cIQCHMYCw/IMG_8921-8923-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8921-8923-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uMcqT6RMVzE/Vewu2TVAvxI/AAAAAAAAPwk/HknEFA5jRZs/s1600/IMG_8926.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1Yqetb9jeMo/WkyAwUVdVTI/AAAAAAAASqs/3VXKP3i5sXwnB0lQ0mGAejiaTzDw_WgPQCHMYCw/IMG_8926.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8926.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>Yardie Creek is a very pleasant little area with some nice walks along the creek, the only creek in the park containing permanent water. It also contains sharks, stingrays, mangroves and other nasties that take refuge there as juveniles, for protection against larger nasties while they are growing up. They can be trapped there for several years before mother nature rearranges the sand again to provide access to the open ocean.</p><p>On the way back for a shower and happy hour, we called in at a few other camping areas teeming with 50+ caravans and agreed that we like our exclusive 10 site campsite the best.</p><p>Packaging laws gone mad:</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-orn1WuyXIcg/VewvjGBfpbI/AAAAAAAAPw8/wgFd8BCXXpg/s1600/Movie+2+18.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gkY2EPjlrDY/WkyBHcO5ddI/AAAAAAAASrs/lagRsR7GB6QrDRvJZX-j8UQWluwOMavsACHMYCw/Movie%252B2%252B18-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="Movie%252B2%252B18-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6t1e3Yb2FWY/Vew2qBa2mYI/AAAAAAAAPx8/IvrDyQv_3ms/s1600/Movie+2+14.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Fuj_1viif3k/WkyBEuuvn0I/AAAAAAAASrg/y4KZR7tlcwQJ0ty6zhcZ_zWYxlrfzMSdgCHMYCw/Movie%252B2%252B14-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="Movie%252B2%252B14-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>"Biscuits shown are not actual size". I ask you?</em></span></p><p><strong>4 Sept 2015</strong> Would have been my grandmother’s 133rd birthday today, bless her soul.</p><p>Found one of Janet’s long hairs in my breakfast Weet-Bix today. Oh, have I not been punished enough in the hair department already that she has to flaunt her surplus hair at me???</p><p>This morning while it was cool, I swapped around a couple of wheels, so that a good tyre with a large slash in its side wall (see below) is now on the rear and a worn one with no sidewall damage at all is now on the front. Seems like a safer arrangement. Hard work but it only took about 40 minutes, and with the remainder of the allotted hour, I checked and topped up the rear diff oil.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0olMIO-9dFk/Vew3J5kkeMI/AAAAAAAAPyE/pXv1jcPIX8M/s1600/IMG_8786.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ee96VzmTt0U/WkyAtPYaN2I/AAAAAAAASqc/ZG1iGE0B-u8tn76EKZ4qhL5StsAHkYoRgCHMYCw/IMG_8786.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8786.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>With the best time for snorkelling between mid and high tide (11am to 2pm today), we drove to Oyster Stacks and spent an hour or so drifting over coral gardens of stag horn, brain and fan corals of all hues, large; bright blue starfish; and hundreds of different types, sizes and colours of fish, some close enough to touch. Being just before high tide, there was no water flow to take us off course.</p><p>When I got out of the water, a man wandered down the beach towards us and said “David Ribbans?” Well how could he know that, being 4000km from home? It turned out to be RIck Whitworth, an Oka owner who I had spoken to a few times and met on our website. He was circumnavigating Australia with his wife Sue and they spotted our Oka from the main road a km away and came over to greet us.</p><p>He knew we were in the area since they had recently met James, my fellow site administrator in Karratha (who we are seeing next week), who told them to look out for us. He recognised me by my beard from website photos and the fact that we were the only Aussie looking people on the beach, the remainder being French/German /Americans with various degrees of bikini bottom coverage.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VXyJvaSLG2Y/Vewv3JR5R0I/AAAAAAAAPxM/VkXNOADEeoA/s1600/IMG_8931-8931.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fZ0D8BngTzg/WkyAi9zNzyI/AAAAAAAASp0/jdlehNSjO4s1j3hIsc0xNRUBtFDIaYZJwCHMYCw/IMG_8931-8931-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8931-8931-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center">Okas 149 and 148 together again at Ningaloo Reef (Oyster Stacks car park)</p><p>We spent around 2 hours checking out each other’s Okas and talking technical, had a nice cup of tea, took some photos and then Rick and Sue went south to Yardie Creek (their first visit to NIngaloo) and we went north to Mangrove Bay and the Bird Hide.</p><p>In the bird hide were a couple of young birdie people from a “Wicked” campervan, with 2 ft long lenses on their cameras and who talked about stop numbers, focus lengths and was it a Nankeen or Striated Night Heron? (The correct answer is both, plus Eastern Reef Egrets and a White Bellied Sea Eagle).</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-a1lSKb3HSXw/Vew578RZjsI/AAAAAAAAPyQ/bNu0Hj8D-Rw/s1600/IMG_8951.JPG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Mp-OS_7L0eI/WkyAvI_IPqI/AAAAAAAASqo/79P_rfY9zVor4CpurTFeqbKm1SJk_c1ugCHMYCw/IMG_8951.JPG-2015-08-29-10-46.jpg" alt="IMG_8951.JPG-2015-08-29-10-46.jpg"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FnB3gHegBu4/VewwEQCEPaI/AAAAAAAAPxc/lB22Sy6qcu4/s1600/IMG_8940.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZiOHmtOWBPQ/WkyBXS7dp7I/AAAAAAAASsc/dv2fUN4W9ws4Pak7mjdZAReMk0WBIrq-QCHMYCw/IMG_8940.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png" alt="IMG_8940.PNG-2015-08-29-10-46.png"></a></p><p>Tomorrow we are departing the Ningaloo area after nearly 2 weeks on beaches and in the water. We are now clean enough to venture further north into the Millstream Chichester National Park and on to Karratha and parts even more northerly.</p><p>Continue enjoying our blog in the next instalment, <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/wa-trip-2015-ningaloo-northwards.html">Ningaloo Northwards and then Southwards</a></span>, or the final section, <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/wa-trip-2015-norseman-east-on-eyre.html">East on the Eyre Highway</a></span>.</p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-18229751033161978152015-07-31T08:20:00.039+09:302018-01-05T10:15:53.859+10:30WA Trip 2015 Home to Newman via Alice<p>We're late starting out on this one, the reasons for which are long and tedious.</p><p>We planned a trip across the Gary Junction Road to the Rudall River National Park (which we completed successfully), however even the longest story starts with the first word, and that word was <strong>Bugga</strong>!</p><p>Bugga, Bugga, and thrice <strong>Bugga</strong>!</p><p>First there was a <strong>wheel wobble</strong> problem, followed by <strong>frothy gearbox oil</strong>, then the <strong>leaking</strong> of a brand new water tank.</p><p>But the worst was the violent wheel wobble problem (called the"Death Wobble" in the US) which took 3 weeks including a trip to Melbourne to resolve. The short story is that the swivel pins in the steering were worn such that they were not under sufficient frictional tension, which allowed them to wobble violently at the sight of any small object, like a matchstick.</p><p>Many days, nights and $$ later, all the parts had been repaired and/or replaced and we no longer have any wobbling.</p><p>The frothy gearbox oil was a surprise, until I found a breather pipe had been ripped off on our last years desert crossing but didn't notice until after I'd pressure cleaned the underneath of the Oka, allowing water to enter the gearbox and mixing with the oil creating froth.</p><p>I flushed out the gearbox using diesel fuel three times, refilled it with 80W90 oil and all is now well, although I haven't checked it again recently.</p><p>Then a brand new flexible water tank, which we bought to replace a previous 10 year old one which had developed a small split in the seam, leaked it's 100 litre contents all over the insides of the Oka on our way to Melbourne to visit our granddaughter (and son/d-in-l). So I had to remove it to confirm a tank leak, not just my pipework, and then negotiate a replacement. I tested the replacement first, being a wise virgin, and that one is now working fine.</p><p>So at last we are on the road to warmer climates, having reached the heady northern latitude of Mambray Creek, just south of Port Augusta.</p><p>Today, some shopping, fuel and a gas bottle refill in PA and then we're heading up the Oodnadatta Track and some outback travel.</p><p><strong>31 July 2015</strong></p><p>379km today into PA, then via Quorn, Hawker, Parachilna, Leigh Creek, Copley, Lyndhurst to Farina. All bitumen now except the last 30km, which was very smooth gravel.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 13pt;"><em><strong>Preliminary calculations in the space/time continuum had us arriving spot on 5pm</strong></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 13pt;"><em><strong>but we actually arrived 15 minutes early.</strong></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 13pt;"><em><strong>On that basis we’d have overshot Pluto by several light years.</strong></em></span></p><p>Farina is a ghost town in the far north of SA about 1/2 way between Lyndhurst and Marree. It's off the highway a km or so so unless you know it's there it's easy to miss, but you shouldn't, because it's a nice diversion for an hour or so and now it has a rudimentary signpost. The campground in the creek also makes it a good spot for overnight stay. There are plenty of walks to do and historical locations to visit, like the Afghan Cemetery with graves facing Mecca.</p><p>The town was established in the 19th century as a potential crop production area after a positive but overly optimistic report by the SA Surveyor-General George Goyder, of Goyder's Line fame. It was intended to have a projected population of around 3000 but it never really succeeded and was finally abandoned in the 1960’s after a century of struggle against a harsh outback existence.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://www.farinarestoration.com/page10/page14/files/Farina map.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-5CwXzuh79bPOT14c_t3hwxJbgAmpyTucfxU0AGera-4dsNNq_G4iQTAvBzkOcf4dUmtRONd75GYVZrOW1FqC_2HR8ezoKx8-0A3uYeUl6gM-3g71AsRNS3YzNtu9zvj6CfKQSK0XRqiE/" alt="Farinamap-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The Farina Town plan circa 1878 (courtesy of the </em></span><a href="http://www.farinarestoration.com/">Farina Restoration website</a><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>)</em></span></p><p>Now Farina is being slowly brought back from a ghost town extinction by the volunteers of the Farina Renovation group. Some shops have/are being renovated (actually just the bakery to date) and lots of signs have been erected, roads have been tidied up and walking trails established.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1LEVXf5uNQc/VcGHmQOavII/AAAAAAAAPb0/pOK1AmN-4oI/s1600/IMG_7882-7883_1.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NRMy4WV59kM/Wkv1ohDIRnI/AAAAAAAASIY/0EgTMPxZWOY2sp1UtAF4_r6136wshavpwCHMYCw/IMG_7882-7883_1-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_7882-7883_1-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The Transcontinental Hotel</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LM6mvtVvGeA/VcGHMQ_OkNI/AAAAAAAAPbs/d8rzXu3yumU/s1600/IMG_7879.JPG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-p0l2eOnrT0E/Wkv0M-Bc1HI/AAAAAAAASEE/NMecBzGU2U03Rp6e_gsrev7NBd94XwFzACHMYCw/IMG_7879.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg" alt="IMG_7879.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Janet at the bakery</em></span></p><p>The campground has had a make over as well with a new shower block but retaining the original wood fired donkey engine to provide hot water (which wasn’t on, our fellow campers are a dirty lot), but otherwise it remains a nice quiet, still, grassy, $5 pp creek bed campground with lots of squeaky corellas in the morning. New walking tails have been established around well sites with copious small pergolas with information plaques.</p><p>Farina was always living on the very edge of existence fuelled by good rains in the 1850’s which fooled town planners in Adelaide that there was potential for sustainable outback crop production. It was never going to be, despite numerous attempts to sink wells which mostly found salty or no water.</p><p>Whilst the town site and crop production was abandoned, the surrounding country remains a viable cattle station.</p><p><strong>1 August 2015</strong></p><p>Following the Heritage Walking Trail (which all towns have, even it seems a ghost town), we trudged around the several wells and “government” (ha) bores in the Farina area, which were just adequate to sustain interest in the town’s development and separate investors from their money but quite inadequate to sustain life. "Trudged", that is, until the nice little posts with historic electrical insulators on the top which were indicating the route, ran out, leaving us to nimbly backtrack to the campground.</p><p>Nevertheless, Farina is slowly coming back to life. 20,000 man or person hours of volunteer work so far is transforming the outback town from an area of crumbling wrecks to something to be wondered over or even admired. The fortitude of the people who lived there, and who still reside in the cemetery, is a testament to the resilience of the time. The slightest hint of an opportunity was enough to galvanise them into action. Try telling that to the youth of today or even the youth of my day.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s5VWd-eTvV4/Vb7zp33HE_I/AAAAAAAAPao/zcgbIIY8yDk/s1600/IMG_7873.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDnKKx8bKJuMIpXJxzLmwlnCbwSbxZZET_rttcm3KKr8adnqRK2ZTnFOKKVWqSHgGdAfXiFugir3Sw_lbnRuZ5AeXcKa2Y9kwYJDXm_Xk9jOXo-3pbcvppnn72DlBKOv9XOSmYCh-J0xa1/" alt="IMG_7873.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>My first car (a 1952 Ford Consul) and our current vehicle at Farina, 40 years age difference but about the same amount of rust. </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5fFIIr1AZkU/Vb72htDTAJI/AAAAAAAAPa8/YSLUxu-7M-U/s1600/IMG_7874.JPG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r3w8lb9hFTQ/Wkv1faoVJTI/AAAAAAAASH4/lwRzmMyUeX8oZGaRXh1lt0s4NtXFx4zXACHMYCw/IMG_7874.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg" alt="IMG_7874.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Three speed column change, bench seats, if only those springs could talk…</em></span></p><p>Check out the Farina Renovation Group’s website <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://www.farinarestoration.com/">here</a></span>. They are always interested in volunteers and donations.</p><p>Leaving Farina, around lunchtime, +/- 2 hours, we passed by the Alberrie Station’s “Plane Henge”, an area of weird outback sculptures we first saw about 10 years ago. They’ve deteriorated somewhat since but still show the quirkiness of the originator.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QDtXaW6iyc0/Wkv1qZYzjoI/AAAAAAAASIg/fikCEyjXLlIwAtYRFa4R-dfTidEugEU2gCHMYCw/IMG_7896.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg" alt="IMG_7896.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Janet checking her watch by the Time Tree which we originally decorated in hanging time pieces.</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ouGSia1etXM/Vb7zoFCnDZI/AAAAAAAAPag/jYlkPYdRnhM/s1600/IMG_7897.JPG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QUsnMGh2OF8/Wkv1dG2Iu3I/AAAAAAAASHw/UVTWKouDVXgxlw1ma5p_AggR9987UhTFACHMYCw/IMG_7897.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg" alt="IMG_7897.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The entrance is marked by twin aircraft welded together, now the residence of a flock of galahs.</em></span></p><p>Nearby there’s also a memorial(?) to the Marree Man, a crop circle type ground sculpture, probably created by bored US service men with a grader and a GPS.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://thefishbowlnetwork.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/MM-31.jpg"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K2yoZB1RJBw/Wkv0gyuefII/AAAAAAAASFA/-1bGm_iXjgEVDYVCpoyLjtejUyeR6w8dgCHMYCw/MM-31-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg" alt="MM-31-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Marree Man from the air (courtesy of </em></span><a href="http://thefishbowlnetwork.com">thefishbowlnetwork.com</a><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>)</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZTQn4Coh7W8/VcGHB6TzIlI/AAAAAAAAPbk/tEPXOWV7OvA/s1600/IMG_7895.JPG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hTfTRexMHSo/Wkv0XDg2waI/AAAAAAAASEk/OajJ8X0IV-EIT7BL9Y51F5uwgBrB6vurACHMYCw/IMG_7895.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg" alt="IMG_7895.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>It’s fading now but J attempted to maintain its relevance by imitation.</em></span></p><p>Later the same day…</p><p>When I said only yesterday that we were “on the road to warmer climes”, I did expect it to take more than a day and a half. But no, almost as soon as we left the shopping experience in Port Augusta, the temperatures started to rise. Last night at Farina it was cool but pleasant but today became horrendously windy and, I kid you not, actually hot.</p><p>The huge high pressure cell which has been centred over southern Australia for the past week or so, yes, the one that brought freezing temperatures to Adelaide and places even souther, is now bringing hot northerly winds, from the north as you might expect, and gale force ones at that.</p><p>This afternoon on the Oodnadatta Track it reached way over 30º, so warm in fact that we had to break out the shorts and sandals. And J even had to shave her legs just in case we met someone.</p><p>It almost made me regret not getting our air conditioning regassed before we left Adelaide. I had wisely decided, based on previous experience, that it wouldn’t get warm until way into the tropics and I could leave such maintenance activities until we reached the Alice. But Tony Abbot has got his way and global warming really is just a myth, except on the Oodnadatta Track.</p><p>We battled head and and side winds all day across barren plains and past long abandoned fettlers cottages along the old Ghan line to reach Beresford Siding to camp for the night. Nothing here except the ghosts of railways past, a rusting water tower, iron roofing sheets banging in the wind and lengths of old railway line waiting to trip us up if we need to go outside during the night.</p><p>But here we are, happy hour glass in hand, waiting for the cook to create beef rogan josh curry and rice.</p><p>For those given to counting the glasses, I think it’s about 5 so far. Luckily, of the 26 litres of wine, port and sherry bought from Dan Murphy’s while there was still one nearby, we still have 25 or so left, not including the block of 30 beers of course. We could last upwards of a month at this rate.</p><p><strong>2 August 2015</strong></p><p>Up early from the warm night to a cold windy morning. The aforementioned high pressure cell has been replaced by a cold front, and not just mine.</p><p>So just what you need in a cold gale is a broken down vehicle to assist. Soon after setting off from a William Creek comfort stop we encountered N and L in their LandCruiser towing an Ultimate Camper Trailer, which had shed a tyre. Shred would be a better word for it. Badly shredded, delaminated and wound around the axle would describe it best.</p><p>The tread had become detached from the sidewall of a trailer tyre, been run over by its own rim and wound itself tightly around the brake drum a couple of times like a scrunchy. That tightened on the brake cable causing the trailer brakes to turn fully on, jamming the wheel and dragging them to a stop. The brake preventing the wheel from turning (which is exactly what they’re supposed to do) but the tyre tread around the brake drum prevented the wheel from being removed from the hub.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KEMQMnQXYZ8/Vb7zRX0_T6I/AAAAAAAAPaY/Pb0Cn0GdJdA/s1600/IMG_7913.JPG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2CGpyHXiTWE/Wkv0z1rPMwI/AAAAAAAASF4/YiQNHt03j1co4Adulf1UUBdDPBDlKi6-ACHMYCw/IMG_7913.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg" alt="IMG_7913.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The rescued wheel and trail of tread.</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><em><strong>“I think you need some assistance” I ventured.</strong></em></p><p>As it turned out we needed about 9 people, who progressively stopped to help, to force the wheel backwards to release the tension, cut the tyre across the tread with knives, tin snips, swear words etc, manoeuvre the recalcitrant tread from around the rim and detach the wheel from the hub with its attached trail of tread. While we were doing this, Janet entertained L in the back of our Oka, out of the biting wind.</p><p>That was never going to be a one person job. However, we successfully made it after an hour of struggling, against the cold as much as the sharp cords of the tyre, and got the spare fitted.</p><p>Luckily there was no damage to the hub or trailer body. They had probably picked up a slow puncture which flattened the tyre leading to the complete failure of the sidewall. Trailers are prone to doing that, we’ve helped several in a similar state since you can’t see/feel what’s happening until after it’s happened.</p><p>We followed them up the track for 50km or so, to ensure no further problems and waved them on their way to find another spare tyre.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WsaUlgqg4Z0/VcGHpeDsNiI/AAAAAAAAPb8/RD4NSe1R5QU/s1600/IMG_7901-7902_1.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NmM6za1CQN8/Wkv05UT2_GI/AAAAAAAASGI/BA0aopUUaMQc4x9UlGd57IUtYMhixnZ1wCHMYCw/IMG_7901-7902_1-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_7901-7902_1-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Lake Eyre</em></span></p><p>Then, suddenly it was lunchtime at Warinna Siding, which happened to be the exact spot that Sir Thomas Elder dispatched an expedition across Australia in 1891. With 14 people and 44 camels, as you do, they surveyed vast swathes of lower western Australia from South Australia to the Murchison River district in WA, in what was one of the more successful examples of exploration, exactly 6886km in 12 months, without a GPS.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--ZKuEDR-JhE/VcGd787tEMI/AAAAAAAAPcM/6Xhoi0rjnQU/s1600/IMG_7914.JPG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GV_gBAYWJZg/Wkv0rpEfJsI/AAAAAAAASFg/10fcxPsamskE9BuQpgsDd3SsRhA16qhlwCHMYCw/IMG_7914.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg" alt="IMG_7914.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Good lunch spot in an otherwise barren plain</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OKpBhA3NgwM/VcGeBL_LCOI/AAAAAAAAPcU/08mgLo-5yAk/s1600/IMG_7915.JPG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G1OOshInbNw/Wkv08RubcVI/AAAAAAAASGU/bjUN5J4aUCgQpyvnPX_8XdnzMR8YgEG3QCHMYCw/IMG_7915.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg" alt="IMG_7915.JPG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The Elder Memorial</em></span></p><p>The team was led by surveyor David Lindsay (Elder wasn't actually on the expedition, he only paid for it all) but I don’t recall him being rewarded by the naming of any substantial feature, river, mountain, swamp etc. after him. Sad really, considering that notable failures such as Burke (of Burke and Wills infamy) have all sorts of things named after him, towns, books, dig trees etc.</p><p>Tonight we are camped at North Creek, eventually, since I incorrectly located a waypoint on the “North Creek” camping icon clearly marked on the map near Mt Dutton. Silly mistake I suppose, I should have known that there were 2 of them, the real North Creek and campsite was 30km up the track. I shall have words with the map maker regarding the domestic dispute that ensued: pilot to navigator: “You’re useless”, “No, you’re useless”, “Shut up”, ”No, you shut up”.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/---5wVLc_oAM/Vb718Vg32WI/AAAAAAAAPa0/Osi_iREPKRU/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-08-02+at+5.54.23+pm.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qff3VRWVx9I/Wkv1NEQlJYI/AAAAAAAASHE/wRC8QzcTrtUmCFkwvSubsiAPWBL1yBJhgCHMYCw/Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-02%252Bat%252B5.54.23%252Bpm-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-02%252Bat%252B5.54.23%252Bpm-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Two North Creeks in 30km?</em></span></p><p>Harmony restored, after a delicious dinner of chicken aux champignons and wine, I had to go outside for a comfort stop. In the silence of the outback, J clonked a saucepan lid loudly behind me which made me wee on my fingers. Luckily, I was about to do the washing up…</p><p><strong>3 August 2015</strong></p><p>Just arrive in Marla after 800km of gravel road and our first internet for several days. Whooppee!!</p><p>Today’s 290km took us up the rest of the Oodnadatta Track, and through the megalopolis of Oodnadatta. The Pink Roadhouse is still there, although looking decidedly faded, and a new general store has arisen just beyond the town boundary, but none of these plentiful attractions caused us to slow down, apart from the 50kph speed limit, let alone actually stop.</p><p>Since the last train passed through on the Old Ghan line in 1986, Oodnadatta has hung on as a watering and supply point for persons travelling across the Simpson Desert (which we haven’t) or the Old Andado Track to Alice Springs (which we’ve done twice). Although after a panic attack last night in which I foresaw the potential need for the services of a health professional, it was gratifying to note the existence of a substantial Health Care Centre in the town.</p><p>Only 200km and 2 million corrugations later we reached Marla and no sooner had I established Telstra communications and read (actually discarded) about 17 emails, and started updating our blog, when the sound of another Oka engine pummelled my ears.</p><p>Tim and Lorraine in Oka 124 had sidled up next to us and we spent the next couple of hours discussing world events and who had done what and where, with and to their Okas.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o1fnQfzqjQk/VcAyvnQNUFI/AAAAAAAAPbU/Vcx4vlRIgg4/s1600/IMG_7924_1_1.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IEPif_gLMfw/Wkv0gqV2AXI/AAAAAAAASE8/8Iet34qvXGQNEoZpO-FbTaRL7mrVqnOcQCHMYCw/IMG_7924_1_1.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_7924_1_1.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Janet and Lorraine between our Okas</em></span></p><p>We seldom see other Okas on our trips so this was a welcome opportunity to share experiences over a cup of tea/coffee (sadly it was too early for happy hour).</p><p>T and L come from Tambo in NSW and are on their inaugural around/across Australia trip in their Oka.</p><p>The result was that I didn’t get to complete the blog edit before we had to move on north up the track towards the NT and out of Telstra range, and T and L had to leave south for Coober Pedy.</p><p>As we travel north the scenery improved from untidy desert scrub to more attractive desert scrub and we’re camped at the Chandler Rest area, about 100km south of the NT border, glad that darkness will soon delustre the fairly grotty scene outside and a glass or three of wine will complete the process...</p><p><strong>4 August 2015</strong></p><p>After an evening watching huge road trains rolling past the rest area, all lit up with rows of side lights, this morning we continued up the Stuart Highway and into the NT, where suddenly it was no warmer than SA.</p><p>A clear blue sky and therefore full-on sun greeted us a Kulgera and followed us to Erldunda where internet service was reestablished and emus were counted (more than 20).</p><p>A splash of fuel, the first since Port Augusta 1000 km ago, and we headed up to Owen Springs Reserve, 60km south of Alice Springs, to camp by Redbank Waterhole, complete in every way except for no water in the hole.</p><p>1679 km in 6 days so far, +/- a couple of inches, mostly against strong headwinds. 6.3 km/l or 15.9 l/100km for a 6 tonne vehicle. $1.30/l in Adelaide, $1.87/l in the southern NT and $1.42 in Alice Springs.</p><p>Today's 390km of the Stuart Highway was so interesting that I can recall nothing whatsoever about it.</p><p><strong>5 August 2015</strong></p><p>Arrive in Alice after a freezing night when a jumper and 2 pairs of socks were barely enough.</p><p>Did initial desperation shopping, the washing, hair cut for Janet and I bought a couple of expensive $7 shirts in Kmart to replace those someone forgot to pack, but having to pay 50ç for spending a penny is a bit rich.</p><p>Camping on an area of scrub land just south of Alice Springs where the Finke Desert Races are held. We got bogged there once but not this year, it’s very dry and dusty.</p><p><strong>6 August 2015</strong></p><p>Up early in the extreme cold, ice on the windscreen etc, to get our air-conditioning re-gassed. 0º is the perfect conditions for such an event, but it will warm up so we needed it done while we can.</p><p>Then more real shopping, food, fuel, water.</p><p>Back at our campsite I refixed the leaking water tank, yes, the one I’d first fixed before leaving home. I had replaced the tank with another identical item, I thought, but in 10 years, the French manufacturer had slightly changed the thread on the filler cap so the old one didn’t quite fit the new one and leaked a bit (actually a lot). So I replaced the old filler cap with the new one and all is OK again. I tested it properly this time by pumping water into it from another tank, but it did make a bit of mess during the process.</p><p>Then, Oh Joy of Joys, the cricket is on again. With every expectation of a strong Aussie comeback, I connected up the TV module to my computer and tuned into Imparja TV which is showing the Channel 9 telecast in the NT. Joy soon turned to despair as wicket after wicket tumbled and it was left to our fast bowlers to push us past 50 in the shortest test innings on record.</p><p>No matter I said, full of optimism still, the English will now face the same pitch conditions as the Aussies and we’ll show them. And show them we did, just how mediocre it was possible for a professional cricket team to become.</p><p>I retired a dejected soul.</p><p><strong>7 August 2015</strong></p><p>Another very cold night, not helped by the cricket score, -1º but a warm sunny day, in fact 3 cloudless days in a row so far, but nowhere near our record of 44 consecutive cloudless days in 2012.</p><p>Re the cricket, at least this morning’s social media provided some good smiles (“The English team has successfully avoided the follow-on”, “At least the run rate was good” etc), but with dual English/Aussie nationalities, I was sorely tempted to do a Syria and change sides, something I have never contemplated before and won’t be doing now either.</p><p>After a final top up of fuel and water so we have all our tanks fully full (270l of fuel and 250l of water) plus a refilled gas bottle, we waddled out of Alice Springs along Larapinta Drive through the West Macdonnells, which is a very scenic drive.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gPWk6uzq4g8/VdSEZkN5xAI/AAAAAAAAPdo/ghphf9n6_8k/s1600/IMG_7933-7934.png"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG0SWxRCMuKqiqvNW-knJm2DAw0pguWto7zeVCY1QZ3RylqcENg6b9s8ClLqaiQbLT62HUsCf4MPiuD_oK1Cbi8Dsy3hCiPQRjO3m26NvnCMDDtTskRAnKsmWB_nyeZF84Znq_uz9V7j02/" alt="IMG_7933-7934-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>We stopped for lunch at a very scenic lookout when we were set upon by a swarm of bees intent on carrying off our lunch. Whether they were the bitey kind or not we didn’t want to find out but they were a lot smarter than flies and managed to squeeze through small openings. We quickly closed all the doors and windows and ejected those that made it through the fly screens and moved on. Scenic, yes, dangerous, also yes.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oXcBN7AFErY/VdSEvozd0VI/AAAAAAAAPdw/IYrUGv2eQdo/s1600/IMG_7928.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2lGs3k0qn1M/Wkv1vykBIuI/AAAAAAAASIs/S0cPEenZsAc_C9PeRL3JvHRENtQ6OJlEQCHMYCw/IMG_7928.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_7928.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>Camped at Redbank Gorge, the most westerly gorge in the Macdonnells, and did a walk into the gorge. 20mins each way was the promise but it took us a good hour and a half for the round trip and was quite demanding, scrambling over rocks like a pair of teenagers who had spent too much time in front of the tele. Had our photos taken by a kind Japanese family, and when I slowly asked where they were from in my clearest Aussie accent, she said “Perth”.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tnIbFEpVHig/VdSFA-CP9-I/AAAAAAAAPd4/Y6qIF3Vxgno/s1600/IMG_7966.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JFbufgjX94c/Wkv1Dcq4SvI/AAAAAAAASGk/8yg6gPANCoQBZjzJzBUAD2N7wLAZgt9wgCHMYCw/IMG_7966.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_7966.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>We were quite hot when we returned from our scrambling and had to reduce our stocks of beer and cider somewhat to compensate.</p><p><span style="font-size: 15pt;"><strong>8</strong></span> August 2015</p><p>The bitumen now lasts along Larapinta Drive as far as the Tylers Pass turn off which connects up with the Mareenie Loop Road via Gosses Bluff meteorite crater as a nice long (540km) trek from Alice Springs to Watarrka (Kings Canyon) and Uluru (Ayers Rock) . We however turned the other way, north towards Haasts Bluff and Papunya. This is a rocky rough track but fortunately only 100km or so.</p><p>Near Haast’s Bluff is a memorial to Frederick Blakeley, explorer and friend to aboriginals, whose main claims to fame were his ill fated attempt to find Lassiters Reef and his passion for riding across Australia on a bicycle.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mg0wMKtTyyU/VdSFa3eCpqI/AAAAAAAAPeI/Ecplfyq491I/s1600/IMG_7983.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1nvvBeRs-sU/Wkv0qjRX_yI/AAAAAAAASFY/N2pEumoTbowcu2MmHcbdLmeKYvlcb-C8ACHMYCw/IMG_7983.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_7983.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oErtfDEwoks/VdSFWKqq-uI/AAAAAAAAPeA/BrI0h_bSgFM/s1600/IMG_7984.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SA9tBnAGhqI/Wkv1clwXrbI/AAAAAAAASHs/YrxmMRowu2YcuLTDp-i4Guo5Mks3_bq5QCHMYCw/IMG_7984.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_7984.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>Just a bit further on we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn. No signs, but I swear it felt warmer as soon as we crossed into the tropics so I checked the thermometer, 23.5º, and the latitude of the tropic?, 23.5º. How likely is that? Actually very likely. Every time Adelaide’s temperature reaches 34.9º, it’s the same as its latitude. Luckily it never quite reaches its longitude.</p><p>As the day wore on, the temperature rose steadily to 27º, and time to check our new air conditioning. The compressor and the front fans turned on OK but the rear/overhead fans didn’t. Bugga, so we stopped and I checked the fuses and the associated relays, which I swapped around, and all was then working and cooling things down well, just dirty contacts. So our Alice Springs investment in Thursday morning’s 0º has paid off.</p><p>Papunya, a medium sized Aboriginal town, is laid out from above as a series of neat interconnecting circles, but at ground level it’s a fairly grubby settlement which is hard to find your way out of. You have to turn right at the basketball court down a dusty track which is actually the main road west to Kintore, although there are no signs to say so. Fortunately our moving map navigation system showed us the way.</p><p>The Kintore Road (also know as the Gary Junction Road) was constructed by Len Beadell in the 1960’s as one of the access tracks for the British/Australian atomic weapons test program. Hard to believe that any government would allow atomic testing to be carried out on the Australian mainland, but those were different times with different priorities.</p><p>Anyhow, the Kintore/Gary Junction Road thus far is quite a smooth outback track with the occasional sandy dips to catch out the unwary.</p><p>We passed by the most impressive hills of Mt Liebig and the small settlement of Illili, which looks on the map more like a bar code than the name of a location (and not to be confused with Illpili further down the track).</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DiKDep9SDk0/VdR42j7GquI/AAAAAAAAPck/NbCdZJQmcrk/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-08-08+at+7.08.29+pm.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7K_6ks7rXWk/Wkv1fuK0PqI/AAAAAAAASH8/42i9FezJeYoZnw1tCmwul_Qzv07eiwyawCHMYCw/Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-08%252Bat%252B7.08.29%252Bpm-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-08%252Bat%252B7.08.29%252Bpm-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>We are camped tonight behind one of Len Beadell’s plaques which he placed at regular intervals as he constructed his network of tracks in the 1950’s and 60’s.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xc25TQXIFTc/VdSF7QblIOI/AAAAAAAAPeU/RtlE9gRhG7k/s1600/IMG_8010.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-st7FjT_cSL8/Wkv1sbqnxgI/AAAAAAAASIk/H1f5qtb8AgIFkE_FjyoXePXRjmBj7MAdgCHMYCw/IMG_8010.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8010.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p><strong>9 August 2015</strong></p><p>I’m a worry wart, I worry about fuel consumption, tyre wear, which shirt to wear etc. and today was no exception, except to those we added the adverse state of the track, whether we should have come this way at all, what if something breaks etc.</p><p>But here we are nearly 200km from the nearest community having a nice campfire, a drink in the warm evening sun and excellent meal of pork fillet in a ginger sauce on a bed of rice and stir fried veggies. How could it be better than that?</p><p>We left our Beadell Plaque campsite heading west towards Kintore, and the top of the Sandy Blight Road (which we did a few years ago). The track started off quite smooth but as soon as we passed a “Grader Ahead” sign, things got worse, corrugated, rocky and rough. Our speed dropped from 60 to 30kph while my frustration level increased from medium to high.</p><p>The temperature did likewise rising to 28º so it was back to shorts, tee shirts and aircon for the afternoon. We crossed the NT-WA border and into the welcoming arms of the Shire of East Pilbara without the usual quarantine kerfuffle, but suddenly the track stayed much the same.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4bjv6u10v6M/VdSIpmKn_XI/AAAAAAAAPfA/T6E2apdBwIw/s1600/IMG_8035.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y_PSGql6rzU/Wkv0Wj8cMAI/AAAAAAAASEg/rkpc01kpovkdrfL90Rj_i3-UM9cBcxl3wCHMYCw/IMG_8035-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8035-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>We did see our first camel today, a fairly scruffy beast who was still learning the road rules, and termite mounds have started to emerge.</p><p>After 237km today, we reached Mt Tietkens (543m), a very pretty hill just 10km inside WA, with an excellent (and deserted) camping area at its feet. Even though it was now only just after breakfast in WA time, we decided to stop here for the night. We made use of firewood someone else had collected yesterday to construct an adequate fire to burn our rubbish and roast the pork, although it could so easily have been the other way around.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0_oCug7Zr5E/VdSGYhznThI/AAAAAAAAPec/gDj_iw6I-rQ/s1600/IMG_8053.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TuFHAhYUDAk/Wkv04UAqTyI/AAAAAAAASGE/wz3GR9Fm8MgRZ4u34WsbI1RJz6SBEd_0QCHMYCw/IMG_8053.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8053.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sjePHx7ZIm8/VdSGZZ8_CSI/AAAAAAAAPeg/yQ8Lh_Rdd_c/s1600/IMG_8061.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6-uTWq61kBs/Wkv0ik55TkI/AAAAAAAASFE/63Y0sTae-wADX-pTdC3MMYet3s5J2JGFgCHMYCw/IMG_8061-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8061-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>Nearby someone had constructed the world’s shortest walking trail.</p><p>It starts with a near vertical incline up 6 steps cut in the hillside, followed by a steep 1/2 metre decline for a couple of metres, a sharp left turn and a 2m rise to the nearby termite mound summit. All of 4.5 metres total distance.</p><p>And by the way this has been our 6th consecutive cloud free day.</p><p>This is one of those places where you don’t need to dig a hole, the dingoes will only dig it up again overnight and feast on truffles.</p><p><strong>10 August 2015</strong>, would be my mum’s 104th birthday today.</p><p>Being a nice warm day and we were standing on a good firm base of solid rocks, I decided to change a wheel. One tyre which is s bit worn, has become badly chipped up on the rocky track surface and before it fails, I’d rather like to change it so we still have 2 useable spares, rather than 1 1/2. And so I did, took about 45mins of back breaking work but all went OK.</p><p>Several interesting low ranges of hills today, we lunched at the Pollock Hills, but we could have chosen the Dovers Hills or Mt Webb.</p><p>Started the sand dune section mid afternoon, some sandy sections quite difficult.</p><p>Today we were driving through the Gibson Desert:</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GgPuDIJ0GFk/VdR5trX4cqI/AAAAAAAAPc0/y3pp3jPXP2s/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-08-10+at+4.54.58+pm.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-30OfjtVWQm8/Wkv1g3VI6zI/AAAAAAAASIA/QUPJT_lPdDsQMBB-7DxHL4m4e69_OXV3wCHMYCw/Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-10%252Bat%252B4.54.58%252Bpm-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-10%252Bat%252B4.54.58%252Bpm-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>Although at times you wouldn’t know it was a desert with a beautiful 30km section of Desert Oaks (Casuarina Decaisneana):</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bpjco69ZjNM/Wkxr8OhFElI/AAAAAAAASpE/BJdD-2Z1Txc-OfeSlOWXEKfpWk0kbmDyQCHMYCw/IMG_8067-2015-07-31-08-20.JPG" alt="IMG_8067-2015-07-31-08-20.JPG"></span></p><p>Sadly this was followed by a long burn out section leading almost to Jupiter Well which made me quite grumpy. This is one of the spectacular areas I had been looking forward to. Fortunately the surrounds of the campsite have not been too badly affected and the hand pump is still OK:</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yepDzufiX2Q/VdSG_9GkAlI/AAAAAAAAPes/I6SDjoFr4fs/s1600/IMG_8115.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uNLxQShHURw/Wkv0kuPefRI/AAAAAAAASFM/XFOx4jFtSvAn0wNG_WRqQm_Rbta3KYu0gCHMYCw/IMG_8115.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8115.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>Here I'm using the same pump in 2007, but there’s a new mechanism now:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LGROnX2-Lok/Wkyc9OcLJEI/AAAAAAAASuE/HO9BrOQs-RsK6qQut4sUs8X-r8wBsyY0gCHMYCw/PumpingwateratJupiterWellIMG_9270copy_1024-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg" alt="PumpingwateratJupiterWellIMG_9270copy_1024-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></span></p><p>Plenty of fresh water here so we’re staying for a couple of days to do washing etc. and recuperate from 800km of gravel tracks from Alice Springs.</p><p>Did a walk round of the other 3 vehicles camped here to make their acquaintance and have a friendly chat. All going the other way so we gave them our track info and vice versa.</p><p>Had a nice evening outside and cooked chicken à la veggies on the outside BBQ.</p><p><strong>11 August 2015</strong></p><p>Feel much better today after bacon, eggs, tomatoes, fried potatoes and toast for breakfast. Then I fixed the rear side door mechanism which prevented the door from remaining shut, which is a bit of a show stopper. Had to take the door mechanism apart, de-grime the and re-lubricate the sliding plates. All OK now.</p><p>With a fine warm dry breeze blowing it was only sensible that we did the washing. Here’s a view of our beautiful (and free) shady campsite covered wall to wall in drooping desert oaks, from the socks drying on the left, across to the toilet tent on the far right.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8MNBh8qg-lE/VdSHF9vgXVI/AAAAAAAAPe0/-_Is9fGQQKg/s1600/IMG_8113-8114.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9ZT8TAz0raw/Wkv0ex54QiI/AAAAAAAASE4/8V3ORyfZ31Ern58yfmadqy0M5c60-BpVgCHMYCw/IMG_8113-8114-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8113-8114-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>Doesn’t look like we are 100’s of kms from the nearest town does it? (Newman 700km west, Alice Springs 800km east, Halls Creek 600km north (only via the CSR), nothing much at all south, no tracks and even Eucla has a population of only 11).</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5zCexz3qJ5M/Wkxr0BXrwfI/AAAAAAAASpA/JEzJLyaaiG4VA11Td562yixfTZ0fH7CRwCHMYCw/RemoteCampsiteatJupiterWell-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="RemoteCampsiteatJupiterWell-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></span></p><p>After lunch we walked to the site of the original Jupiter Well, dug in 1961 at the same time, but not directly related to Len Beadell’s development of the GJR, and named after the planet whose reflection was seen on the surface of the newly created well.</p><p>Nothing much to be seen of the original well after 54 years (there is supposed to be a blazed tree and plaque), and the current bore was sunk in 1985.</p><p>The interesting history of the development of Jupiter Well (as part of the geodetic survey of Australia) and why 2 wells were dug, can be read <a href="http://xnatmap.org/adnm/docs/JWELL/jwell.htm">here</a>.</p><p>Although we only walked a few 100m from our campsite to the original well site, it was strangely worrying, being so remote, hot, dry and alone, and it was only 25º today.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 13pt;"><em><strong>Alfred Gibson got stranded alone in this desert in 1874 and was never seen again.</strong></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 13pt;"><em><strong>A horrendous fate to contemplate.</strong></em></span></p><p>Alfred Gibson, in whose desert we are travelling, got stranded alone in this desert in 1874 on an expedition organised by Ernest Giles and was never seen again. He was only 23. A horrendous fate to contemplate.</p><p>There are 3 other vehicles camped here so we organised a happy hour this afternoon with all their occupants (Terry, a Kiwi, Tony and Lee-Ann, Graeme and Elaine, sister of Tony) to swap anecdotes about outback travel.</p><p><strong>12 August 2015</strong></p><p>It’s surprising just how much clutter you can distribute in one’s day’s camping. We had stayed for an extra day at Jupiter well to relax and do the washing (mutual opposites?) and we sat outside for most of the day. So there were chairs, a table, stubby coolers, drinks, camping lights, toilet-tent/loo etc, rubber door mats to combat dust, washing line, BBQ cooker and spade, all of which had to be reinstalled in their correct locations before we could drive over to the water pump to replenish our supplies.</p><p>Despite all that, due to the weird WA timezone, we were still on the road by 9.00am. My internals have not yet adjusted to getting up with the sun at 6 am but not having lunch until 12.30.</p><p>155km later, we had said lunch at Gary Junction, a 3 way track junction which gives the Gary Junction Road (GJR) its name (Gary was Len Beadell’s son). The junction marks the end or start, depending on your orientation, of the GJR, the Jenkins Track which leads to the Canning Stock Route, and the Gary Highway which leads south past Windy Corner and ultimately to the Gunbarrel Highway, Len Beadell’s best known outback track.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3fztC29vCAA/VdSJc0CBOcI/AAAAAAAAPfY/fKXvtjRqvHg/s1600/IMG_8134.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-spFQew-v7EU/Wkv0KO3ZbaI/AAAAAAAASD4/98xMul6clP4f5dVeND6X9aBrg-CyvfmhwCHMYCw/IMG_8134.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8134.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Oil drums and a visitors book mark the middle of the 3 way junction. We saw no one all day.</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q8i2qXV9G-Y/VdSJog4MU7I/AAAAAAAAPfo/Lk1sgqRcadQ/s1600/IMG_8145.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IQQTi3TQL3s/Wkv0yRED5vI/AAAAAAAASFw/PZaOpk2ALk8t-5-F8I5fRy1JRavF16DJgCHMYCw/IMG_8145.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8145.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The plaque placed by Len Beadell on the turned up top of an oil drum. He used his revolver to drill the screw holes.</em></span></p><p>We’ve been this way before and at the junction there are a couple of oil drums, one of which contains a visitor’s book in a steel enclosure into which travellers write their life stories, or a cheery one-liner for others to never read. We are no exception and when we looked back through the dusty, faded exercise books, there was our 2007 inscription, still looking like I wrote it yesterday, untidy, grammatically obnoxious but factually correct.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-adBw4IoJRlU/VdSJaoCSMuI/AAAAAAAAPfU/n__OOi6bPmk/s1600/IMG_8139.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3KLo94WaHa0/Wkv1XGE937I/AAAAAAAASHg/whsZOfWO0wY7hD3IkbyVUxe-J8dbT271gCHMYCw/IMG_8139.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8139.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DJA6ninE86Q/VdSJZPqA1HI/AAAAAAAAPfM/hMAiucRDrV0/s1600/IMG_8137.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SkkJlVDujAE/Wkv1e410yXI/AAAAAAAASH0/ocVaTLBSAQQpsglQlE5bGZN0ubB1RJvZQCHMYCw/IMG_8137-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8137-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center">Our previous inscription 8 years earlier, dated 1/6/07</p><p>We added our current Hello’s, and not being able to think of anything both witty and family friendly, took some photos to compare with our last visit and motored on. In doing so I inadvertently drove over a bolt sticking up out of the road, probably the remnants of a trig marker point. Luckily I went right over it, so the main tread of the rear tyre took all the force, not the side wall, and 60km later all seems well.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8P88AcaPdFQ/VdSJo00qhnI/AAAAAAAAPfs/8lf7Nw-2eI8/s1600/IMG_8140.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b-hpIfN3aDQ/Wkv1yfpA0aI/AAAAAAAASI0/lTHauyE0T1oKhBaH1XaX4GTQF1yEEiWgwCHMYCw/IMG_8140.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8140.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>On a previous visit we travelled down the Gary Highway and saw no one in 5 days and 800km until we reached Warburton on the Great Central Road (not one of Len Beadell’s tracks). When I researched the Gary Highway on our return I discovered that there was no Wikipedia entry for the Gary Highway, so I wrote one and you can still see it <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gary_Highway">here</a></span>. There’s a photo in it I took of our Oka and Janet in her blue shirt at Veevers Meteorite Crater part way down. I mention this because someone else tried to claim ownership of my photo until I complained to Google who graciously reversed the credit. Google does have a soul after all, albeit a small one.</p><p>Later in the afternoon, we reached the Canning Stock Route (CSR) at Well 33, 1076km from Alice Springs and we still have 70l of fuel left. We’ve done up and down the CSR before but this time we are heading straight across it.</p><p>The CSR is the world’s longest 4WD track, over 2000km across thousands of difficult sand dunes and is Not Easy. Many vehicles have succumbed to its risks and I didn’t want to add to that total.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pZ139jxsqSs/VdSKiHAv4wI/AAAAAAAAPf8/8ZvIHKWjw5k/s1600/IMG_8155.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oDDzRVw4z3M/Wkv1uRN3DTI/AAAAAAAASIo/YIdMqEFImAEAUXH7g_T1LxW-d65fDrmpgCHMYCw/IMG_8155.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8155.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>Refuelling at Kunawaritji's new fuel depot:</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HmVYEgKifq8/VdSKiRhTKjI/AAAAAAAAPgA/UVai8a4ES9I/s1600/IMG_8164.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yLsC8mIWimY/Wkv1Lkva3SI/AAAAAAAASHA/xpeLvxt5tHUaSvtEdukNuscAC6uBWaTFwCHMYCw/IMG_8164.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8164.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>We have now moved from the Gibson Desert to the Great Sandy Desert, although I failed to notice the join, and tomorrow we’ll fuel up at Kunawarritji Community and head for the Telfer Gold Mine where we can turn south to the Rudall River National Park (now renamed the Karlamilyi NP).</p><p><strong>13 August 2015</strong></p><p>Had a good day today, starting with a spectacular sun and moonrise out of our rear window across the desert.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wXs-ZT4a2MY/VdSKbKQnIUI/AAAAAAAAPfw/mJdiGbUW3qQ/s1600/IMG_8163.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lXFCWTQrjlc/Wkv0aAwmUQI/AAAAAAAASEs/mlaj-pCAeiQiI-nVNSTsCZfBaBNwscJVQCHMYCw/IMG_8163.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8163.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>But then there was a sad moment. We were camped at Well 33 last night with several other vehicles on a Tag-Along-Tour half way down their 3 week trip on the CSR. Sadly one lady’s mother has just died, so she and her husband have had to abandon their trip, set off alone 1200km east to Alice Springs, the nearest large airport and a 3 or 4 day drive on the same track we just came on, to catch a plane to Brisbane. This would have upset the other members of their party as well. One of the problems of being a remote location is that despite the advances in communications, the tyranny of distance remains the same. We know the feeling.</p><p>Anyway, after breakfast (when we had ice cubes in our milk since I forgot to turn the fridge down last night), we filled with delicious well water, refuelled with 160l of diesel at Kunawarritji Community store (at $3.40/l) and bought some groceries from their sparsely stocked shelves. The total bill was over $500, but this is a very remote location so the prices are very understandable and the local people are very nice and friendly. And it’s good fun watching the dollars ticking up on the fuel pump, like a poker machine.</p><p>We set off up the track towards Punmu, a small aboriginal settlement 185km west, just inside the Rudall River National Park. When we stopped for lunch I put some rubber mats down under the engine to repair a wire to the compressor which got ripped off somewhere along the way. Not a long or difficult job but it prevented my compressed air compressor from working. We had seen no one before or since on this track but in the 5 minutes I was fixing the problem, 3 vehicles stopped to render assistance, all of them friendly local aboriginals. One of them even offered me a beer to help my work which is very unusual. He had a smashed windscreen which he said happened this morning when a bush turkey (bustard) flew up and hit it.</p><p>We crossed Lake Auld, a dry salt lake with a good mirage hiding the opposite shore and on through very scenic sand dune country.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vqC-kY6hjiw/VdSMFEcyMYI/AAAAAAAAPgY/KZiUfTrNdOk/s1600/IMG_8168-8169.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c2u-PrwVxc4/Wkv1VliI99I/AAAAAAAASHc/yDeexo5i2os5Gzk-Tdfa-h1esN6Nv9p7gCHMYCw/IMG_8168-8169-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8168-8169-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>Pumnu's impressive entrance statement:</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eZ13nbUOtA8/VdSL9Yd1ARI/AAAAAAAAPgQ/Fbdq5fVSeD0/s1600/IMG_8177.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-il5SeVtgUO0/Wkv1Bo3wJDI/AAAAAAAASGg/pqSK5EkIjWQT63VBR-LTT34TaKdQoJB8QCHMYCw/IMG_8177.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8177.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>We passed Punmu and found a nice campsite nestled amongst white barked snappy gum trees:</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-85Z3wJVgPS0/VdSMGGYN8gI/AAAAAAAAPgc/yThfrjwvClo/s1600/IMG_8182-8183.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PwBGh0xBL7A/Wkv02g90fzI/AAAAAAAASGA/x6ONh_fkCY8_mj5bAXQodRXUbHCsx1b7wCHMYCw/IMG_8182-8183-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8182-8183-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>It was the former site of a road or mine construction team. I logged in on our HF radio to Adelaide Base, more than 2200km away as the emu flies, to tell them our location, travel plans and state of well being and got a 3 out of 5 signal reading, pretty good for such long distance communications. When there’s no one around for 100’s km, it’s comforting to be in regular contact with the human race and who can help when needed. The other morning a vehicle broke down (no engine oil) on the Barkly Highway in eastern NT and the VKS network organised assistance from a motoring organisation.</p><p><strong>14 August 2015</strong></p><p>Our 11th sunny day and another good day.</p><p>It was only 10km or so from our snappy gum campsite to Lake Dora. This is a dazzling salt lake into which the Rudall River flows, when it has water in it. From there the NP access track is a 100km further on past the Telfer Gold mine.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BZ3ipvVaKVc/VdU7Ap8-haI/AAAAAAAAPh8/jLiFsOSCVSA/s1600/IMG_8187-8188.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A9Y5bS7Zub4/Wkv0zZxGotI/AAAAAAAASF0/G8eay7UQwJQSkgilgwo0hBniIDK3TAs4gCHMYCw/IMG_8187-8188-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8187-8188-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RMgqv108iIE/VdU7HKG40aI/AAAAAAAAPiE/i5TvQRA2XM8/s1600/IMG_8197-8199.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cqwXjng8YDU/Wkv1paxCJHI/AAAAAAAASIc/cb2hzd5xbCsdNdOv9CQPCokABZT33-DKACHMYCw/IMG_8197-8199-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8197-8199-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8Kuefwl439I/VdU6_N1_gDI/AAAAAAAAPh0/MZljaNPpxvs/s1600/IMG_8206.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P7Y9f3gfrds/Wkv1kKEQYgI/AAAAAAAASII/DYQxV36IZmg35Xu1yzBEJ_Gb3qA-PstJwCHMYCw/IMG_8206.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8206.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><table><tr><td style="width: 640px;padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px;border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0);border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0);border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0);border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0);margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px;"><p style="text-align: center">We dazzled too...</p></td></tr></table><p>Owned by Newcrest Mining (if you listen to the resources sector of the daily business news) the Telfer Gold Mine is one of the largest in the world and tucked away in a remote corner of WA’s Great Sandy Desert so it’s very difficult to access. The spoil heaps are visible from 50km away and the size of the mine can be imagined from the “Golf Course” which is shown on the survey maps. Being in the desert, we can only wonder what colour the greens really are.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1hm0kfxhV1Q/VdR6h7VJcII/AAAAAAAAPdE/-wUt-Gi030M/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-08-14+at+6.54.11+pm.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G86lvoGlfRs/Wkv1QqAvJpI/AAAAAAAASHQ/hGRAca_NIB45edju04M5-QvgJaOy_Q5YwCHMYCw/Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-14%252Bat%252B6.54.11%252Bpm-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-14%252Bat%252B6.54.11%252Bpm-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>It worried us somewhat when we encountered a large <span style="color: rgb(164,7,3);">“No Entry Without Prior Approval”</span> sign but we had no option but to drive up their huge mine track anyway and plead ignorance when necessary. Fortunately the tourist police were busy counting their nuggets today so there were no checks on vehicles and we drove past the main entrance and on to the Rudall River access track.</p><p>We passed through the very scenically named Karakutakati Range of hills on a very rough and slow track to Christmas Pool which I had heard of but knew nothing about. Stand by for a history lesson!</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5rBgNTbAOlE/VdVl7l1tlFI/AAAAAAAAPiQ/8MZDs5A8y7w/s1600/IMG_8269-8270.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WRNRfNNK6wc/Wkv1a3jXsQI/AAAAAAAASHo/yv3qfbBufJQrT_Ouzu5jOecZ2mBvkMnmgCHMYCw/IMG_8269-8270-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8269-8270-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>No water in Christmas Pool, it’s just sand. And it's not Christmas!</em></span></p><p>Christmas Pool is a waterhole on a small unnamed creek in the Paterson Range. It’s dry at the moment but was used by aboriginals for thousands of years as a wet season meeting place and kitchen. They called it “Wantanmata” and ground the seeds which formed their main diet on the rocks around the waterhole. Their deep grinding marks are still quite visible.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lTe7Ab3PAT4/VdSNmYuM5hI/AAAAAAAAPg0/uDnvfse_odY/s1600/IMG_8272.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ulfNgMt3mU0/Wkv0ZHjGV7I/AAAAAAAASEo/fUskhZXtAdIxnga03ODK7bL1PeD8W-1zwCHMYCw/IMG_8272.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8272.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>The name Christmas Pool was given to the location rather later by William Rudall on 25 December 1896 when he camped here on an expedition to locate the missing members of the Calvert Scientific Expedition. [If you’ve read our report of last year’s crossing of the Great Sandy Desert, yeah right, you’ll recall how we crossed the path of the Calvert Expedition very close to where 2 of his party went missing and whose dessicated bodies were found 6 months later].</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zPDl6S7wnd0/VdVu7TSvHiI/AAAAAAAAPlA/HsB-o8ZlhJI/s1600/IMG_8267.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JMeibh5_14I/Wkv0b3oLXnI/AAAAAAAASEw/-qSkSvKrwMQ2ZzAynQWFNjEv-hujQwWKACHMYCw/IMG_8267.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8267.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The plaque is almost unreadable but basically says what I said</em></span></p><p>The full Christmas Pool/Wantamata inscription reads:</p><table style="empty-cells: show;border-collapse: collapse;"><tr><td style="padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px;border: 6px solid rgb(146,146,146);margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px;"><p><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The seasonally available fresh water at Wantamata was used by local Aboriginals and early explorers.</em></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Nyangumanta people of the Pilbara and Ngulipartu groups occupied the Paterson Range area (Jinwanura) and camped at this waterhole. The many grinding grooves in the sandstone bedrock were made by Aboriginal people processing seeds into an edible paste. Seed based foods were a dietary staple in this region.</em></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>In 1896, William Rudall with his assistants Henry Trotman, Alfred Crofton and Jack Connaughton and Aboriginal guides Cherry and George passed through the Paterson Range while undertaking an expedition to search for the two missing men from the ill-fated Calvert Scientific Expedition. The party used Wantamata as a base camp and Rudall named Christmas Pool when they were here on 25th December 1896. Trotman, Crofton and Connaughton engraved their names and the date into the bedrock. Other early European visitors who left their mark on the rock included government geologist Henry Talbot in 1914 and Jack Mathews, a well known camel team operator and owner of Talawana Station in 1905.</em></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Wantamata is a place of national significance which has been managed in order to protect it for the enjoyment of Australians.</em></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Please respect this site and:</em></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Refrain from carving names and other messages into the rock.</em></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Do not drive beyond the barrier.</em></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Avoid cutting and otherwise damaging trees around the site.</em></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Take your litter with you when you leave.</em></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The management work at Wantamata has been undertaken by the Department of Aboriginal Sites and Newcrest Mining 1994.</em></span></p></td></tr></table><p>The names of Rudall’s party are all inscribed on the rocks around the pool, all <em>except</em> his own. HS Trottman, Alfred Crofton, Jack Connaughton in 1896/97 and other early explorers, Jack Matthews in 1905 and Henry Talbot (HWBT) in 1914. Other later inscriptions are considered as graffiti and most have been obliterated by aboriginal stone chipping.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kbXtWBu-cUA/VdSOTZsSpmI/AAAAAAAAPg8/rh_qfL0IFJ4/s1600/IMG_8283.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-c18OIo-n4BE/Wkv1PeAemKI/AAAAAAAASHM/MLJkJJCiVH0KgAO_1C-CZI7pIGhqlVquwCHMYCw/IMG_8283.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8283.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sfwSmGE-8vA/VdSOXddl6II/AAAAAAAAPhE/DeDCnE5mQ2M/s1600/IMG_8280.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7z3ZJqB8yMo/Wkv0t1CXlLI/AAAAAAAASFk/LhNKuDZk1jEDN6Mp5f8Z8ek6Mgr_GnUAgCHMYCw/IMG_8280.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8280.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>There is also a fairly clear aboriginal stone chipped emu in the rock face but it took a bit of discerning because its head is missing.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uk2l6_9gSzw/VdSOezYC7FI/AAAAAAAAPhU/-AP0Dj_kqa0/s1600/IMG_8292.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y8H_0OvYyvg/Wkv1ZRHFioI/AAAAAAAASHk/wOQKOBACGdcWPMkPYB1dlVd3jclV0hxEgCHMYCw/IMG_8292.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8292.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Can you see the Emu?</em></span></p><p>Arty-farty tree roots in the rock wall of the waterhole:</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wCZcPgQyzYI/VdSOY5qUizI/AAAAAAAAPhM/B_I023ALGNI/s1600/IMG_8285-8286.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Mw8NOq9Qe6g/Wkv110eDnUI/AAAAAAAASJA/7XjSFkrQwXky3tMWWFh6p0_S2_d6-11DwCHMYCw/IMG_8285-8286-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8285-8286-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>All in all an interesting afternoon, so nice in fact that we’ve camped here tonight in a beautiful valley of red rocky hills covered in spinifex and studded with snappy gums.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zVaSAPwzm08/VdSNh1eJY9I/AAAAAAAAPgs/Gu8q7KukWFM/s1600/IMG_8303.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I6XxUwuhZns/Wkv1G8Uw5FI/AAAAAAAASGw/-xN7yHWssv8LunezzFGyUKX9uIGw3oohACHMYCw/IMG_8303.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8303.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>Tomorrow we’ll move on to Desert Queen Baths, a string of permanent water holes on Rooney Creek in the Broadhurst Range of hills.</p><p><strong>15 August 2015</strong></p><p>A cloudy day, bugga it, now I’ll have to reset my cloudless day counter.</p><p>A warm but pretty drive south from our Christmas Pool campsite past Moses Chair, a large round but otherwise featureless hill. Looks more like a beanbag than a chair. One can only conjecture about its name, maybe it’s reminiscent of Mt Sinai, “an arid mountain in NE Egypt”, where it is supposed Moses received the Ten Commandments, several years before Charlton Heston made them popular.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lmX14fmaL9w/VdVmZ2t_AGI/AAAAAAAAPiY/WP5_ZU1O_c0/s1600/IMG_8309-8310.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MhTY6gFwGAg/Wkv0OI25qJI/AAAAAAAASEI/1In65uvWRAsks1YalTEmC-dpdGQU0w6EACHMYCw/IMG_8309-8310-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8309-8310-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Moses Chair looking more like a Beanbag</em></span></p><p>Whilst pretty, the track south was very annoyingly corrugated. However a black dingo ran in down the track in front of us for 10 minutes, faster than we could drive (5km), before deciding the sharp spinifex was less annoying than the big white vehicle following it. Quite a feat of endurance in this hot dry climate.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QcW-GDN3WJc/VdVmxmBzXmI/AAAAAAAAPig/DoR8wnV84Ko/s1600/IMG_8311.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Pz413LBOR68/Wkv1HpppMrI/AAAAAAAASG0/0aigs0xlluIalq6bBcCRF0WGdjvUTowdACHMYCw/IMG_8311.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8311.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Black Dingo galloping ahead of us for 5km</em></span></p><p>We also disturbed a large brown camel which eventually wandered off the track and bellowed at our inconsideration, and several clumps of pretty flowers making use of the recently burnt out landscape.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h3RMlwcWCoM/VdVm7ECxltI/AAAAAAAAPio/zHlX4dPiy2g/s1600/IMG_8357.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kAzXJCq5qec/Wkv1T3GoHoI/AAAAAAAASHY/fOEy9Uf_O4Y8sVaCZVktD7rXbUVjlRrjwCHMYCw/IMG_8357.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8357.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>There’s a hand pump just off the track, probably installed by earlier mining exploration teams, which produces cool clear drinking water for thirsty travellers and local wild life. "We" tested it:</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QUEsB_RwMzM/VdVn7ICvG2I/AAAAAAAAPjA/Nr1md7yrkjU/s1600/IMG_8358.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jX5cFxwj3CM/Wkv16MLcOMI/AAAAAAAASJM/aYupbDp0x3QgI3xKliY-dO8-i3JjtDXAACHMYCw/IMG_8358.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8358.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>A small wheel track of to the right caught our attention so we investigated and discovered Coolbro Creek waterhole, a permanent oasis for wild life in an arid environment. After we’d investigated and recorded the waterhole, 2 vehicles arrived and disgorged 4 birdie people, all strung about with cameras and binoculars and talking about Princess Parrots and Red Backed Kingfishers and had we seen any etc. We chatted for a while and then us “novices” as they unkindly referred to us as, left them to explore and catalog the birdlife.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WZkZhOLN0_g/VdVnLmiDrDI/AAAAAAAAPiw/Jf2LkBgNniw/s1600/IMG_8325.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L8uMesbigUY/Wkv0d_pKwyI/AAAAAAAASE0/uSg3KOR0TXwKCdu5J-9BpHA4DfY_s5ZpwCHMYCw/IMG_8325.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8325.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>Further on we turned down a narrow track to Desert Queen Baths (DQB), a series of waterholes in the Rooney Creek, and one of the magical places in the NP. The track is only 18km but is guarded by a severe warning of difficulties ahead, unmaintained, major wash-aways, narrow, rough and steep. And so it was, all of those things. Thrice I had to stop and walk ahead to select the least risky path for our Oka, and once we had to clear some large rocks from the side of the track so I could deviate around a steep wash-away to avoid the risk of a roll-over.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FW6kRawXpUs/VdVn8OSDZcI/AAAAAAAAPjM/-511YyoJlRg/s1600/IMG_8374-8376.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tvDM_8iTBqA/Wkv10theS4I/AAAAAAAASI8/Vorfb63j6DwFcJYougZP0cypXoCyAnbiACHMYCw/IMG_8374-8376-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8374-8376-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>No one here when we arrived, but our birdie friends and 2 other camper trailers arrived just before dark, but still a very scenic and peaceful place nontheless.</p><p><strong>16 August 2015</strong></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><em><strong>“Never get between the door and a woman’s full bladder”. </strong></em></span></p><p>This was one of the risks of outback travel I learned early this morning but hadn’t previously considered. It certainly shouldn’t be underestimated.</p><p>After an outdoor breakfast of eggs, bacon and fried potato, we packed a small lunch, lots of water, the camera, a GPS and fly hats and set out on a trek to the waterholes.</p><p>Nature has an annoying habit of making the best places the most difficult to access, and these waterholes are no exception. In 4 hours we managed to rock-hop/scramble our way to 4 waterholes, a total distance of 3.5 km. There are a lot more water holes around but they are too difficult to access without a helicopter.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ea00Sad4op4/VdVn7l1nIjI/AAAAAAAAPjE/7tqQ2NTrb00/s1600/IMG_8378-8379.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FX-JAeHV5AI/Wkv0PbtdtDI/AAAAAAAASEM/H9rfIc6We4k88jLxv-PMOTgso05sFlFJgCHMYCw/IMG_8378-8379-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8378-8379-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>When we did the walk last time, in 2007, we only went half this distance, stopping for lunch on what we called Apricot Rock, since we found a piece of dried apricot on it. This time the apricot was no longer there but there was some orange peel, so we carried on to a more salubrious rock.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GVd_9PLpgIA/VdVn_HQHz2I/AAAAAAAAPjY/oeLXiZmReY8/s1600/IMG_8403.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GY8pc1W7QIc/Wkv0RnVkP2I/AAAAAAAASEQ/HTI1_ajhbkkdccbrjDYN0M7vNGnkx3VXACHMYCw/IMG_8403.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8403.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Apricot Rock, no apricot in 2015</em></span></p><p>In one pool we saw a few small ducks with yellow flashes under their eyes and reddish brown necks. Consulting our bird book later revealed no conclusive identification but we suspect it’s an Australasia Grebe in mating colours.</p><p>It was a hot, knee/ankle wrecking walk and not without its risks, we had a few near misses and got a bit lost on our way back (every rock looks like every other one and you don’t leave footprints on rocks to follow), and when we got back everything was hot, aching and/or needing TLC.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l-6u2Jjy8qM/VdVvCHCXL7I/AAAAAAAAPlQ/v58-uuQ_cqA/s1600/IMG_8395.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hnmcLkoGZf0/Wkv0mo6kwyI/AAAAAAAASFQ/hM6QIfWdwTk9kPQC1jAkBE4ChSLdGMHZACHMYCw/IMG_8395.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8395.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>The afternoon was spent recuperating in the shade with some cool drinks.</p><p><strong>17 August 2015</strong></p><p>Brilliant sunny day after a cool clear night.</p><p>After the extravagant exoticnesses of yesterday’s bacon and eggs, it’s back to Weet-Bix today.</p><p>Before leaving I cleaned out the dust and dirt from one of the window channels so we can now at least open one rear window. Next week I might try another one.</p><p>The drive out of DQB was, not surprisingly, just as tortuous as the way in and the track south was just as corrugated. We passed perky miss Compton’s Pinnacle.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-75RkNVON1Dc/VdVngY6R4oI/AAAAAAAAPi4/hLSduTbxnKs/s1600/IMG_8432.PNG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZZFNFq-IsceahyfPW1Gk4Ws7xIz6t5VOVzj5B7XKUEhn8p3yK5qhXYNyiddd2WxirCLXP9mpW8HRTV5rBD5zawg1h_MFbVeQcB1i3DvRLTIK4E-RHrfBsWKDaNUJbRyJQUDEpRMWpRJy4/" alt="IMG_8432.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>"Miss" Compton's Pinnacle</em></span></p><p>Near the Rudall River crossing we turned up a track for lunch at No 11 Pool, where we met a couple of former Kiwi’s (Sean and Hillary) in a dark green Land Rover TDi Defender.</p><p>Later we met again at Tjingkulatjatjarra Pool where they are camped near the waterhole and they saw what was probably a Black Snake hunting at the water’s edge. But Black Snakes come in various colour schemes and Hilary’s photo showed a snake with half orange, half green body with a black head. For black snakes, obvious cross hatching of scales is a better identifier than colour. Either way they are not to be trifled with, they’re very dangerous and we are very remote from any antivenom supplies.</p><p>Common Brown Snake, Black Snake/Mulga/King Brown Snake (don’t rely on colour to identify):</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xn-jNiE_bDE/VdR7NmReb0I/AAAAAAAAPdQ/jBCwsVmkNss/s1600/Pasted+Graphic.tiff"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-R3N9kuxf0ynt6uDPDXYqMjGnItJIU4Ns_13XOpRHgeqz-qTMxwWDQFlAQsgNBNRRRRx7sdujy6m82uM-eDqX_RAuylW9n3AFzrhiDRnM8e0DWC7faRtv7kRlzBgFKx6YiQRK7tVC63vk/" alt="Pasted%252BGraphic.tiff-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RGn9uEiYrrI/VdR7e07KEkI/AAAAAAAAPdY/nul6767IfnQ/s1600/Pasted+Graphic+1.tiff"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nHZmS2T9E8E/Wkv12Tw48pI/AAAAAAAASJE/f52c0SzAGWk0yLNLYm-j9ov0_XG-_SeBACHMYCw/Pasted%252BGraphic%252B1.tiff-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg" alt="Pasted%252BGraphic%252B1.tiff-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></em></p><p>We are camped higher up on the river bank, which is not so nice, but in a snake free zone.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ljw6TG50SFw/VdVpPiuuNOI/AAAAAAAAPjk/rAU0lgcozio/s1600/IMG_8447.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YF1JIVjHTzE/Wkv1SRGniEI/AAAAAAAASHU/mU9POX460_4Nt8hNc01iEXynYFMzZCFbwCHMYCw/IMG_8447.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8447.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>There's a big Black Snake somewhere behind us...</em></span></p><p>Reminder note on snake bite treatment, mainly for ourselves:</p><p><strong>Immediate Pressure Immobilisation Bandaging (tight like for a sprained ankle) over as much as possible of the affected limb starting with the bite area, with complete movement prevention, is the ONLY successful method of slowing the spread of envenomation while urgent medical assistance is sought (brought to the patient preferably, not vice versa).</strong></p><p>Later in the afternoon, we enjoyed a couple of hours chatting with S&H over a few drinks about travel in Oz and in the Middle East and India.</p><p>Ducks in this pool were more easily identified than in DQB and confirmed our earlier siting as Australasian Grebes.</p><p>A plaque on a tree next to the pool describes the 1974 travels of the Ives brothers in this area following the explorations of (probably) their father in the late 30’s.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qo54tPV6sIo/VdVrn74Ja4I/AAAAAAAAPjw/D4CqdE9n5Qk/s1600/IMG_8440.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QAjoZrkuQaU/Wkv0-DRCDCI/AAAAAAAASGY/2iTs8khd6_sjQ2dSeZBR-x9XCwxHr74sQCHMYCw/IMG_8440.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8440.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>Travel in Australia in pre-war days would have been very difficult since up to 1940, only 2% of Australia had been formally mapped, mostly the east coast. The war accelerated this process but it still took another 20 years before the whole country was adequately mapped by completion of the Australian Geodetic Survey program which ran from 1951 to 1965 and incorporated the survey work undertaken during Len Beadell’s road construction network.</p><p><strong>18 August 2015</strong></p><p>Another glorious sunny day at Tching-kula-tja-tjarra Pool, which is exactly how it’s pronouciated. I called in to Alice Springs base and actually pronounciated it that way with some conviction and the base operator actually knew where I meant. It’s commonly referred to as “T-Pool” amongst commoner folk.</p><p>All up and breakfasted before 7am, only 6 hours ‘till lunchtime! It’s a nice place and tempting to stay here another day but all that does is use up resources for no progress, so it’s southwards towards the Talawana Track today.</p><p>S&H left heading towards Marble Bar and then Ningaloo and we agreed we might meet them somewhere down the track or at Ningaloo.</p><p>We drove up a nearby hill to see the view but the southern part of the park is nothing like as scenic as the northern section so I’m glad we came in from that direction this time.</p><p>When we stopped, with a bump, I found this large orange boulder (which I've moved) wedged in front the rear wheel, causing the “bump”. How I missed it with the front wheel is a mystery.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a43hEKbnV18/VdVsF7RplYI/AAAAAAAAPj4/3o5iUO5AOaw/s1600/IMG_8461.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nVOpWfCVcQc/Wkv0Ds2SB7I/AAAAAAAASDo/m22n2eIQtCo5vp6td5QmTnan27vRbqFIgCHMYCw/IMG_8461.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg" alt="IMG_8461.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></p><p>We backtracked from T-Pool to the main track which was quite a difficult little 8km and crossed the actual (but dry) Rudall River after stopping to re-read the plaque. It hasn’t changed since 2007.</p><table><tr><td style="width: 975px;padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px;border-top: 0px solid rgb(146,146,146);border-right: 0px solid rgb(146,146,146);border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(146,146,146);border-right: 0px solid rgb(146,146,146);margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px;"><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f1eC84lrPg8/VdVvP5U2JhI/AAAAAAAAPls/ySN9A0Ei9C8/s1600/IMG_8469.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_L25DWLb91M/Wkv17o4vIAI/AAAAAAAASJQ/Tfyeot3VQpAOi9j6Q4xEha2vdKdrVT3ewCHMYCw/IMG_8469.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8469.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p></td></tr><tr><td style="width: 975px;padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px;border-top: 0px solid rgb(146,146,146);border-right: 0px solid rgb(146,146,146);border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(146,146,146);border-right: 0px solid rgb(146,146,146);margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px;"><p style="text-align: center">The sandy Rudall River crossing</p></td></tr></table><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rcphOWg5BQI/VdVsGWjC06I/AAAAAAAAPkI/n8csVmS9T_I/s1600/IMG_8462.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gva8gYtWd3I/Wkv14QJQ_mI/AAAAAAAASJI/iwvbZVElasYcBk88GzXLIFL0xj5A0f1CgCHMYCw/IMG_8462.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8462.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p9bkLOH91e0/VdVsGFfcwLI/AAAAAAAAPkE/-m3AerbYqYc/s1600/IMG_8464.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n4cZQMmhpcY/Wkv1l6WF4wI/AAAAAAAASIM/fZBqYz0t3VIkNRcJghLWUlxNPwYR8hMmgCHMYCw/IMG_8464.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8464.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>We thought that Kalkan Kalkan Soak sounded interesting but we were disappointed, no water and a tricky little manoeuvre needed after I went a bit too far into the river gravel. However I extracted ourselves with a bit of to-ing and fro-ing and returned to the main track.</p><p>It might be called the “Main Track” but the next 50km was very corrugated sand and the best we could do without shaking J’s bra off was 20kph.</p><p>We stopped for lunch in the only nice spot on the track.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K3FHw4k5FJA/VdVsPF82ZdI/AAAAAAAAPkc/VCf8Xi6_gIc/s1600/IMG_8479.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ulyOHhoUAbs/Wkv0HTNhGsI/AAAAAAAASDw/ClfEx6Y21l8887Ox5RvKefbK-NJGlCzKACHMYCw/IMG_8479.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8479.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>Eventually we turned right on to the Talalwana Track, which is a very wide gravelly/sandy track where even 70kph wasn’t out of the question. We went looking for a superb campsite we found in 2007 after the Oka engine just stopped near here, due to a wiring problem. No such problem this time round, but neither did we find the same camping spot. Instead we located a small track and very nice campsite under a few small Desert Oak trees.</p><p>We had a campfire to burn our burnable rubbish and cooked sausages and beans on the red hot coals (in a dutch oven of course, we're not cave persons!), which we consumed in conjunction with Serge’s home made red wine. Outback decadence.</p><p>Later we watched the stars through our nick-nocs and put the Hubble space telescope to shame with our astronomical observations. “Ooh, is that a comet?”, “No just an aeroplane”. “Why is the Southern Cross lying on it’s side?”. No answer was forthcoming to that one so we went inside to do the dishes instead.</p><p><strong>19 August 2015</strong> our 43rd wedding anniversary.</p><p>Beautiful pink sunny start to the day.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iqLMzO7Kc70/VdVtaKCCOzI/AAAAAAAAPk4/fd7ZvcdVqM0/s1600/IMG_8496-8498.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Py6r_CqjHDs/Wkv07yseYVI/AAAAAAAASGQ/Rx1iBOvOrTgLIc2N8W1s5Fr-_e-DK7o9gCHMYCw/IMG_8496-8498-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8496-8498-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>Finally refitted a fly screen to the window previously de-gritted so we can not only open it but also keep out flying insects, which are becoming more plethoric as we head more northerly. While doing so, a large buzzy fly came in and now of course can’t get out. How bloody ironic.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0,0,255); background-color: rgb(255,255,255);"><strong>While refitting a fly screen to a window,</strong></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0,0,255);"><strong>a large buzzy fly came in and now of course can’t get out.</strong></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(0,0,255);"><strong>How bloody ironic.</strong></span></p><p>The rest of the drive along the Talawana Track was pretty ho-hum, through cattle stations and soft boggy muddy semi-desert. Balfour Downs and Ethel Creek Stations, both we suspect are indigenous owned due to the number of abandoned and rusting car wrecks along the trackside.</p><p>We splashed across Fortescue Creek, the first time in 3700km we've got our feet wet.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yV1LaLe4H5w/VdV5CYZO8XI/AAAAAAAAPl8/9O80XlLdBYw/s1600/IMG_8515.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W53gVcjg4cU/Wkv0Lvz_kcI/AAAAAAAASD8/CF7AXv8MV14WmesGO_tdnQv3tKdcUTJcACHMYCw/IMG_8515.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8515.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>Fortunately, in some ways, there were no rest areas and even small tracks we could pull off into to camp.</p><p>So we reached the Newman to Marble Bar highway late and tired but happily there was a rest area in a beautiful area of bushland just opposite the junction, and if you ignored the wrecked cars, broken bottles and assorted recycling that wasn’t, it was quite a nice place to stop.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SaRbcnzJA6w/VdV5URmx_eI/AAAAAAAAPmE/V7aisoPd6nw/s1600/IMG_8525.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V54te7c8b74/Wkv0FZVbJiI/AAAAAAAASDs/MeRoNv1p0aMylzFElyOQTtiWNFEUwuoWwCHMYCw/IMG_8525.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8525.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>You can just see a wrecked car on the left under the tree.</em></span></p><p><strong>20 August 2015 </strong></p><p>A beautiful scented aroma entered the Oka for most of the night through our newly fitted fly screen from the plethora of native shrubs that are all in bloom, mauve Mulla Mullas, yellow Wattle and purple Solanum flowers.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-24PK-t3FEC8/VdV5pkglviI/AAAAAAAAPmM/4UGlMjQlqDA/s1600/IMG_8519.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HwElXpfPEns/Wkv0o2qnhoI/AAAAAAAASFU/iWsy-M0bDf0b97Ra5J06ccfveZN5R11wgCHMYCw/IMG_8519.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8519.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>So inspired was I by the rubbish tip of a rest area we resided in last night that I wrote a poem about the colours of the outback, entitled “The Colours of the Outback”:</p><p>Red is the colour of dazzling sunsets, bleeding to where red sand lies,</p><p>Pink is the colour of a sunrise warm, transforming to blue of the skies,</p><p>Purple and mauve are the flowering shrubs, home to grey insect flocks,</p><p>Green is the colour of lush soft spinifex, set in a sea of black rocks,</p><p>Orange glows bright from big hot sand dunes, where white are the camels' bones,</p><p>Silver glints from dumped VB cans, and brown are the cars’ rusting groans.</p><p>Words-bloody-worth, eat your heart out.</p><p>'Twas but a 50km stones's throw to Newman by carriage and pair where a Laundromat was sought, unsuccessfully, so we booked into a caravan park for $26 (inc. oldies discount) to get the washing done, fill with water legally etc. etc.</p><p>Newman is BHP Billiton's main iron ore mine site and the location of the largest open cut mine in the world, 5km long, 1.5km wide and deep enough to fill quite a few olympic sized swimming pools and/or land some jumbo jets.</p><p>It also has a range of huge ore trucks on display:</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uceyQpaarhY/VdV74ogtw5I/AAAAAAAAPmc/2AMn8hNE-CM/s1600/IMG_8532.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WBMU6yAvHq4/Wkv0U8pZA5I/AAAAAAAASEc/zWCwuJaptJEiEWtZ5Z4GgYOSGFf2f-MQACHMYCw/IMG_8532.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8532.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>3.7 tonnes per tyre, times 4, equals a lot of rubber.</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uuF370RU3AE/VdV74lmuUPI/AAAAAAAAPmY/kWyMH4r8E4Q/s1600/IMG_8531.png"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AT8q0DKokYg/Wkv1iMDmXdI/AAAAAAAASIE/r1vrqZiML5UiZparW8MfTC0cXP4K_0y8ACHMYCw/IMG_8531-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8531-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>I could use a wing mirror that size on our Oka...</em></span></p><p>On a hilltop outside the town are a couple of huge steel statues of a man and a woman, seemingly holding on to the 220kv power lines.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dic2Gp571is/VdbZumUfGpI/AAAAAAAAPnU/MVx0lq04-pw/s1600/IMG_8535.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lyo_ub0tQ_M/Wkv0Ta7PaVI/AAAAAAAASEY/zK7SS-ByJqgLngX5NUZ0oldi3CcvtgotgCHMYCw/IMG_8535.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8535.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p><strong>21 Aug 2015</strong></p><p>The washing washed the shopping shopped, emails read, cricket watched, calls made to relies all, water and gas supplies satisfied and tanks refilled (with 8ç/l off if I bought 2 Mars Bars, no contest), we sallied forth north from Newman.</p><p>On the way we came across this recovery process. A trailer had become detached from its prime mover and its load was being removed prior to truck recovery.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LreS4bKjrL8/VdbWAjdJIxI/AAAAAAAAPmw/raDmGL8klhg/s1600/IMG_8539.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sqiIzGOfhpA/Wkv0u097sWI/AAAAAAAASFo/GnZFGLFeB889H0_n-vDCR21goGvDMRyhQCHMYCw/IMG_8539.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8539.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kpFHUQ2WRlg/VdbWBJLNccI/AAAAAAAAPm0/NFQp6S3hTfk/s1600/IMG_8540.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RbNSrigod94/Wkv0wtGZ3WI/AAAAAAAASFs/_7MVwYfgMIQuZQwXYk0Wwpg-83tfwGtwgCHMYCw/IMG_8540.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8540.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>From the size of the crane it was a very heavy load.</p><p>One our rear tyres is becoming very chipped and one tread block was imminently about to get ripped off. So to avoid anything penetrating the cords beneath it, I "Araldited" the tread block back on:</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YzbC6fQeDEI/VdbW_2fHFmI/AAAAAAAAPnA/7bPytO5nGkI/s1600/IMG_8538.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-D3k28RY0Yqc/Wkv01lQUM8I/AAAAAAAASF8/9uID8fznu7ckBJg4jCSUzynfZqM-qk7bQCHMYCw/IMG_8538.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8538.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>100kms later and the tread block is still there doing its job:</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mBnM_fBwLT4/VdbW_zicbUI/AAAAAAAAPnE/yv9g3d0q-Sk/s1600/IMG_8544.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HkTSCE9lYoQ/Wkv1JZ0cpJI/AAAAAAAASG4/WjshCww7AuEULECSuGIrqoxaNCCYh_tcACHMYCw/IMG_8544.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8544.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>We reached the Mt Robinson Rest Area in mid afternoon and here we shall stay tonight, quite a picturesque location at the foot of Mt Robinson, surprisingly enough.</p><p><strong>Backtrack for a moment to the Talawana Track on 19th Augus</strong>t</p><p>Later that morning on the Talawana Track we came across a mystery. This almost new Toyota was seemingly abandoned on the side of the track. It’s not unusual to see abandoned vehicles in Aboriginal areas, when their cars break down they just leave them to rust away and go and get another one. But this didn’t look like an aboriginal vehicle, it was too new and clean.</p><p>So we stopped and approached it cautiously in case it was some sort of Peter Falconio type axe-murderer scam, but the ute was deserted.</p><p>I carefully checked but there no one was inside and all the doors were locked, so we scouted around in case someone had gone behind a bush, or bird-spotting or what ever, but there was no trace of anyone and there were only only a couple of footprints outside the drivers door leading nowhere. How strange?</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WOaXUzkJC3k/VeD3JkQVBFI/AAAAAAAAPnw/A43mxtlf0Ds/s1600/IMG_8505.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8gxqglhYavQ/Wkv0_vFCJRI/AAAAAAAASGc/7GWu9qVwfigmWSbWVBmfsk2262zlX_jmgCHMYCw/IMG_8505.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8505.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>I took some more photos with the intention of telling the police about it when we reached Newman the next day, and drove on.</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hU6zbyE1eBE/VeD3I7WYQmI/AAAAAAAAPns/ikRkgvbCCZQ/s1600/IMG_8507_1.PNG"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4MXsEqwSnBw/Wkv06t87LHI/AAAAAAAASGM/fxBmm2JTBOcclAvcZDJ0sk6IzzRN0j1UACHMYCw/IMG_8507_1.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png" alt="IMG_8507_1.PNG-2015-07-31-08-20.png"></a></p><p>An hour or so later we came across another similar vehicle parked on the side of the road, but this time there was a man standing by the driver’s door and someone in the passenger’s seat. Whoa! What’s going on here??? This is a very remote and lonely track and it was all getting slightly scary.</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p7Wxg53HBe4/VeD3E4SXV_I/AAAAAAAAPnk/9U2ah7A_J7k/s1600/Talawana+Track+mystery.jpg"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MbeNpaAPTBs/Wkv1NZkZ8dI/AAAAAAAASHI/5HrT9XrE8ykjZZpkQwWl4XF_G0MLa4llgCHMYCw/Talawana%252BTrack%252Bmystery-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg" alt="Talawana%252BTrack%252Bmystery-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Scary moment on a lonely track.</em></span></p><p>The man flagged us down as we approached and being suspicious we stopped short of him and waited for him to approach us. He was a dark coloured man who I initially thought was aboriginal but turned out to be African, neatly dressed and well spoken.</p><p>I lowered the window and he said he was lost. He only had a simple hand drawn paper map and was trying to locate Parnagurr, a small Aboriginal community about 150km up the track we had come from. But why 2 vehicles and one abandoned?</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-juP4Z6wEW2s/VeD4HdhuZVI/AAAAAAAAPoA/m1A5m05NuD8/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-08-28+at+10.44.31+pm.jpg"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C_iZmNt-1M0/Wkv0rGFf85I/AAAAAAAASFc/4GHE2UUQ0HUw7dTAoBsKfLgrEKsprePzACHMYCw/Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-28%252Bat%252B10.44.31%252Bpm-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg" alt="Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-28%252Bat%252B10.44.31%252Bpm-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Kiki with his “navigation” system.</em></span></p><p>It seems they had both come from Newman, 300km away, in separate vehicles. The passenger, also an African lady in full African dress and holding a Sat Phone, was heading for Parngurr. The man was escorting her as far as the Jigalong track junction after which he would return to Newman and she would continue to Parngurr alone.</p><p>But they had missed the junction which was very small and had no signposts, so they had taken one vehicle and returned to look for it, to ensure they were on the right track, leaving the other vehicle, which we found. Not finding the junction for a second time they stopped and waited, as it happens, for us to come along.</p><p>We showed the man (Kiki was his name) where we were and where Parngurr was on our map system but it took some time for him to grasp the geography of the area. Eventually he was happy that he knew where they were and where to go and we left them to continue their journey(s).</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S58lYztiESE/VeD4agjwGvI/AAAAAAAAPoI/a569goU-nIU/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-08-28+at+10.52.45+pm.jpg"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-69-vmf2C4ow/Wkv1J-m-8uI/AAAAAAAASG8/g8-oD3gaG6kfkt28iumqcN35gwb90f1gwCHMYCw/Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-28%252Bat%252B10.52.45%252Bpm-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg" alt="Screen%252BShot%252B2015-08-28%252Bat%252B10.52.45%252Bpm-2015-07-31-08-20.jpg"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Navigation all sorted out and they were sent on their way.</em></span></p><p>So the mystery was cleared up, but it still struck us as very strange that 2 African people who were obviously new to Australia should be driving around the outback, alone and in new vehicles, unsure of where they were, with inadequate maps and heading for an Aboriginal community. But for what purpose?</p><p>We never saw them again so we assume Kiki escorted the lady all the way to Parngurr (more than 400km from Newman) rather than return early.</p><p>Australia is certainly a strange place.</p><p><strong>New Blog sections for 22nd August 2015 onwards</strong></p><p>Reports of our 2015 travels are continued in subsequent posts:</p><p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2015/08/wa-trip-2015-newman-to-ningaloo.html">Newman to Ningaloo</a></span></p><p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/wa-trip-2015-ningaloo-northwards.html">Ningaloo Northwards and then Southwards</a></span></p><p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/wa-trip-2015-norseman-east-on-eyre.html">East across the Eyre Highway</a></span></p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-50358818996492284492015-06-16T00:07:00.001+09:302015-11-18T06:56:59.313+10:30Farina, a Ghost Town Reemerging from its past<br />
We've visited and stayed at Farina just off the Oodnadatta Track many times and its fascination as a ghost town never leaves us.<br />
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Once laid out as a busy rural town of several hundred residents with a grid of streets, businesses and a railway station, it gradually succumbed to the remote harshness of the desert environment but was only finally abandoned in the 1960's.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uzbjsa7Rbco/VZR-MwJmMoI/AAAAAAAAPZs/PuD8-W-NBHM/s1600/IMG_1292_1_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uzbjsa7Rbco/VZR-MwJmMoI/AAAAAAAAPZs/PuD8-W-NBHM/s640/IMG_1292_1_1.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The Transcontinental Hotel at Farina:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5bJmfKG5UYY/VZR9UekOBjI/AAAAAAAAPZk/Ur11D6BajF8/s1600/IMG_1296-1297_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="321" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5bJmfKG5UYY/VZR9UekOBjI/AAAAAAAAPZk/Ur11D6BajF8/s640/IMG_1296-1297_1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is an ABC Landline report of Farina and its re-emergence from the past.<br />
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<a href="http://www.abc.net.au/landline/content/2013/s3802729.htm">http://www.abc.net.au/landline/content/2013/s3802729.htm</a><br />
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You can also visit the Farina Restoration Project <a href="http://www.farinarestoration.com/index.html">here</a>.dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-90784528843943515512015-05-23T16:19:00.009+09:302015-11-18T06:40:29.495+10:30Pioneers Anglicare Gig 15 May 2015<iframe frameborder="yes" height="200" scrolling="no" src="https://w.soundcloud.com/player/?url=https%3A//api.soundcloud.com/tracks/206983038%3Fsecret_token%3Ds-vOBFu&auto_play=false&hide_related=false&show_comments=true&show_user=true&show_reposts=false&visual=true" width="50%"></iframe><br />
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Played by the Playford Pioneers (including me on the tenor sax), 15 May 2015dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-40650917096413634042015-05-05T13:50:00.006+09:302018-01-01T12:14:22.754+10:30Travels in Nepal, February 1975<p>As part of our overland journey from the UK to Australia in 1974/5, we spent 2 glorious weeks in Nepal.</p><p>The countryside was scenic and peaceful and the Himalayas were spectacular and visible from almost everywhere.</p><p>Once you negotiate the lower foothill mountains from India, the Himalayas are an awe-inspiringly mind-blowingly beautiful sight and wherever you go in Nepal, especially at the western end, they are always there, huge, gleaming white, distant but seemingly close enough to touch.</p><p>The Nepalese people were very friendly and the ancient religious buildings and structures were very impressive.</p><p>So it was with great sadness we heard about and watched the unfolding earthquake disaster in April and May 2015, almost exactly 40 years after our visit.</p><p>This is a slideshow of our travels showing how things were in 1975. They may never be the same again.</p><table style="empty-cells: show;border-collapse: collapse;"><tr><td style="width: 800px;padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px;border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0);border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0);border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0);border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0);margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px;"><p><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: rgb(255,255,255);"><iframe allowFullScreen frameborder="0" height="564" mozallowfullscreen src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/126871445" webkitAllowFullScreen width="640"></iframe></span></p></td></tr></table>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-74500361267701409572015-05-05T13:29:00.001+09:302015-05-06T00:44:58.102+09:30Travels in India, March 1975<p>After traveling through Afghanistan and Pakistan in 1974/5, we arrived in India, where we toured around the north and a stayed for 6 weeks. In between we also spent 2 glorious weeks in Nepal.</p><p>India was not our favourite country, it was an overcrowded, dirty, dusty place but with a colourful past and heritage.</p><p>Traveling in India was a very frustrating business partly due to the oppressive people pressure and also because (at the time) all the road signs were in Hindi.</p><p>Both India and Pakistan have immensely colourful, cultural histories and there was and is a lot to see in both countries. But neither country compared favourably with Afghanistan and Nepal in the overall sense of ease of travel and fun of adventure.</p><p>Yes, there were magnificent sites to visit and exotic experiences awaiting us but they were always overawed by the pressure of population and overcrowding. They were mostly hot, dusty and dirty places, and poverty was everywhere. There was no peace and quiet, no privacy and because of people pressure we seldom felt safe or at ease. In 1975 the Indian population was 600 million and you couldn't move for people. Now the population is over 1 billion and how it doesn't burst its seams is a mystery.</p><p>While they were very interesting places to visit culturally, life was a struggle, navigation in India was a nightmare (we used the sun mostly), finding safe camping spots was difficult and they were not really nice places to be in, (unless you were in an environmentally insulated tourist bus, in which case you might as well visit India on the Internet, it's cheaper and you won't get sick).</p><p>We spent 6 weeks in India and it's a country we still talk about a lot but didn't really like while we were there. It was just a difficult and frustrating place to travel in.</p><p>Here’s a slide show of some of our Indian photos (one Malaysian pic slipped in unnoticed).</p><p><iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/126883386?byline=0&portrait=0" width="800" height="450" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="https://vimeo.com/126883386">Travels in India, March and April 1975</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/dandj">David and Janet</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p></p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-49456152581981927252014-11-20T08:28:00.038+10:302015-11-18T06:50:15.847+10:30Tracks we've been on - update<p>This section includes a summary of the outback tracks we've driven on over the years and what we thought of them.</p><p><strong>Notes:</strong></p><p><ul style="list-style-type: hyphen;"></p><p><li>The word “Highway” to describe some these tracks must <strong>not</strong> be interpreted as an indication that they are easily navigable, in most cases that is not true.</li></p><p><li>All these tracks should all be considered as 4WD only, although some may be possible in a sturdy high clearance 2WD. Check carefully first.</li></p><p><li>Distances mentioned provide rough guidance only and don’t include access distance or side trips. Even some of the short tracks are still many 100’s kms away from centres of population and may be days from medical and mechanical repair facilities.</li></p><p><li>All these tracks hold the prospect of vehicle damage and/or becoming stranded after breakdown. Be fully self-sufficient in terms of food, water, fuel, vehicle spares, repair and recovery facilities, and know-how.</li></p><p><li>Carry good navigational aids (eg moving map GPS), long range communications equipment (HF Radio or Sat Phone and EPIRB). <strong>DON’T rely on CB or mobile phones</strong>. If in doubt travel in a group.</li></p><p><li>Even with good communications facilities, consider the health risks in potentially being several days from real medical assistance (eg personal health issues, accidents, snake bite, heat and dehydration). Ensure <em>all</em> party members know what to do in each situation and carry appropriate first aid equipment and documentation.</li></p><p><li>There are limited fuel and water supplies on all these tracks (and possibly access tracks to them as well) so plan carrying capacity, consumption and re-supply points carefully.</li></p><p><li>Some tracks will require permits where they cross or access Aboriginal Native Title lands, National Parks or private Station Properties. </li></p><p></ul></p><p><table style="border-collapse: collapse; empty-cells: show;"><tbody></p><p><strong>My degree of difficulty code </strong>(as we found them when we drove them, but conditions can change)</p><p></tbody></table></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>E - Easy</strong></span>.</p><p><ul style="list-style-type: disc;"></p><p><li>Could be done on a bicycle, there are none of these on this list. </li></p><p></ul></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE - Quite Easy</strong></span>.</p><p><ul style="list-style-type: disc;"></p><p><li>Mainly wide gravel or light sandy tracks with some corrugations, no really difficult sections.</li></p><p><li>Needs a fair bit of planning due to length and/or remoteness.</li></p><p><li>Requires sturdy vehicle but relatively few off road skills.</li></p><p></ul></p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="color: #f400ff;"><strong>MD - Moderately Difficult</strong></span>.</p><p><ul style="list-style-type: hyphen;"></p><p><li>Could be attempted by an average or new 4WD adventurer with care and planning.</li></p><p><li>Narrow and/or sandy or slippery gravel or rocks with reasonable corrugations.</li></p><p><li>Requires some research on the anticipated conditions and facilities.</li></p><p><li>Requires tough 4WD and moderate off road experience.</li></p><p></ul></p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="color: #a70402;"><strong>D - Difficult</strong></span>.</p><p><ul style="list-style-type: hyphen;"></p><p><li>Not a good first outback track to attempt, especially alone, may contain significant challenges or risks.</li></p><p><li>Narrow with long deep sandy corrugations and/or rocky sections and/or difficult sand dunes.</li></p><p><li>Some overgrown sections which might damage paintwork. Some washaways might requiring diversions from the track.</li></p><p><li>Requires very tough 4WD with good experience of outback travel and recovery procedures. Plan for self sufficiency for long periods (days).</li></p><p></ul></p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="color: #ff141a;"><strong>VD - Very Difficult</strong></span>.</p><p><ul style="list-style-type: hyphen;"></p><p><li>Risky and long and/or challenging, for experienced off road adventurers only.</li></p><p><li>Very corrugated narrow sandy and/or steep rocky sections and/or large sand dunes or very overgrown sections posing serious navigation risks.</li></p><p><li>Significant washaways likely requiring extensive diversions or track construction/repair. Risk of roll-overs and/or vehicle damage.</li></p><p><li>Requires very tough 4WD and extensive off road experience, preferable with another vehicle. Requires full self recovery and repair facilities. Self sufficiency planning needed for long periods (weeks).</li></p><p></ul></p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="color: #1313ff;"><strong>RD - Ridiculously Difficult</strong></span></p><p><ul style="list-style-type: hyphen;"></p><p><li>Requires a space shuttle or jump jet to cover the distance, impossible without.</li></p><p><li>There are none of these on this list either or there wouldn’t be a list.</li></p><p></ul></p><p><table style="border-collapse: collapse; empty-cells: show;"><tbody></p><p><tr><td colspan="2" style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; width: 730px;"><strong>South Australia</strong></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 89px;"><strong>Difficulty</strong></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Googs Track</p><p>(2005)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Ceduna to Tarcoola</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 590px;">Great fun and not too difficult. Deep sand and plenty of sand dunes.</p><p>Camping at Googs Lakes and Mount Finke.</p><p>200 kms, permit needed.</p><p>South to North direction recommended, use CB and sand flags on crests to announce your presence.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 89px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Oodnadata Track</p><p>(several times)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Maree to Marla or Painted Desert</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 590px;">Fairly easy when dry, moderately difficult and slippery when wet, and full of interesting locations: Mound Springs, Old Ghan Railway Line, Plane Henge Sculpture Park, Lake Eyre, Old Peake Telegraph Station.</p><p>Other areas accessible are the Painted Desert (west from Oodnadata) and Dalhousie Springs and Mount Dare (to the north east of Oodnadatta).</p><p>600 kms, facilities at Oodnadata, Marree and a few camping areas (Coward Springs, Farina), bush camping available at many locations.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 89px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE </strong></span>to <span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong></strong></span><span style="color: #f400ff;">MD</span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Old Eyre Highway</p><p>(1975 and 2012)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Border Village to Nundroo via Nullabor Roadhouse and Yalata</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 590px;">The original unsealed section of the Eyre Highway still exists, although it was replaced by the sealed coastal highway in 1976, and is still quite navigable after 36 years. The surface is relatively smooth rocky limestone.</p><p>Access is from the Border Village in SA and it runs inland for 200km via Koonalda Homestead (now a National Park headquarters) before returning to the highway at the Nullarbor Roadhouse.</p><p>It can then be taken inland again via Ivy Tanks (abandoned ruins) for 200 km passing the Yalata Community (no access) before rejoining the sealed Eyre Highway near Nundroo.</p><p>There are plenty of things to see along these sections of track, blow holes, sink holes, caves and wild life. Camping is easy and there is almost no traffic.</p><p>At Nullarbor Road house, side trips are available for whale watching at the Head of the Bight and exploring sinkhole caves 10km north of the roadhouse, where the flatness of the Nullarbor Plain is quite awe inspiring.</p><p>No permits are required even though the track passes through Yalata Aboriginal land, but the track also passes through the Nullarbor National Park for which fees may be applicable.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 89px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><table style="border-collapse: collapse; empty-cells: show;"><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; width: 128px;"><strong>Queensland</strong></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Sandover Highway</p><p>(2005)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Mount Isa to Alice Springs</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 589px;">Quite easy, deep to moderate sand and gravel on the NT section. No facilities but quite scenic. Tricky to find the start at the QLD end. 800 kms, nice camping along the dry Sandover River.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 89px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Bloomfield Track</p><p>(2005)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Cooktown to Cape Tribulation</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 589px;">Difficult, steep, winding and slippery gravel.</p><p>Drainage channels along the sides so there's not much room for error.</p><p>Despite the track being along the coast, there are almost no views of the sea due to the dense vegetation.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 89px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #f400ff;"><strong>MD</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Cape York Peninsular Development Road</p><p>(2010)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Cairns to the Tip</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 589px;">Fairly easy (some corrugations) using bypass tracks NOT the OTT (which would require a Very Difficult rating).</p><p>Long, hot and dusty track (need lights on).</p><p>Regular road houses with camping facilities.</p><p>$88 ferry return fare (trailers extra) at Jardine River crossing, includes unlimited camping (except at commercial resorts but they can be easily avoided).</p><p>Very windy on east coast, calm on the west.</p><p>Key places at the tip are Bamaga, Seisia and Somerset. Take a trip to Thursday Island. Good camping at Wroonga Point and Mutee Heads.</p><p>Plenty of side trips on the way up or back (Weipa, Mapoon, Pennefather River (deep sand!), Capt Billy Landing, Chilli Beach, Portland Roads, Lochhart River, Lakefield National Park and Cooktown).</p><p>800 kms plus side trips. Fuel and food readily available at road houses or small towns.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 89px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 127px;">Burke Development Road</p><p>(2005)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Chillagoe to Karumba</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 588px;">Alternative gravel track to Karumba from Cairns/Mareeba via Chillagoe.</p><p>650km, no facilities west of Chillagoe and not often travelled.</p><p>Easy going but some river crossings may be tricky depending on the severity of wet seasons.</p><p>Very few places to camp amongst unfriendly cattle station properties (“<em>Campers will be Shot</em>” type signs).</p><p>Good caves at Chillagoe.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 88px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;">QE</span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><table style="border-collapse: collapse; empty-cells: show;"><tbody></p><p><tr><td colspan="3" style="border: 1px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; width: 832px;"><strong>Western Australia</strong></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Canning Stock Route (CSR)</p><p>(2007 and 2012)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Halls Creek to Willuna</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 585px;">We've done 2/3rds of the CSR in 2 stages on 3 trips, comprising the top section from Bililuna to Well 33 near Kunawaritji (700 kms, 7 days), and the centre section (twice) from Well 33 to Georgia Bore near Well 22 (300 kms, 3 days).</p><p>The CSR is very long (2000km) and lonely but a great desert experience and well worth all the the necessary effort and planning. It traverses hundreds of sand dunes (maybe >1000), some of which are quite large and difficult, and beyond the scope of smaller 4WD’s. Trailers also present severe limitations on sand dunes.</p><p>A good travelling average would be 100km/day so a full trip would require about 3 weeks (plus time getting to and from the start/end points). So from most population centres, a full CSR trip would require 5-6 weeks minimum.</p><p>Be aware that once you start on this track, there is almost no chance of vehicle recovery except under your own own steam, so total self sufficiency is a prerequisite and travelling in a group of at least 2 vehicles is highly recommended.</p><p>There is very little access to food and fuel on the CSR so plan accordingly. Limited fuel and food is available at Kunawaritji Store (Well 33) and Billiluna only. Stock up at Halls Creek or Willuna before travel. Plan on very high fuel consumption over very long distances (up to twice normal road consumption).</p><p>Fuel drops may be available at Well 24 by arrangement with the Capricorn Roadhouse at Newman.</p><p>Good quality water is usually available at several wells but do <strong>not</strong> place any reliance on the availability or quality of well water (or even being able to find the wells) and carry plenty in reserve, especially in hot conditions (September onwards).</p><p>No permit is required unless you deviate off the track but the Gary Junction access track will require permits.</p><p>In an emergency, the track can be exited at Well 22 west to Newman (800km) on the Talawana Track, or at Well 33 east to Alice Springs (1200km) on the Gary Junction Road or west to Marble Bar, but those are still very remote places. Small indigenous communities in the area might provide emergency assistance.</p><p>To reiterate, the CSR must <strong>not</strong> be taken lightly, extensive planning and full self sufficiency are essential pre-requisites.</td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #ff141a;"><strong>VD</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Steep Point)</p><p>(2013)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Hamlyn Pool to Steep Point</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 585px;">This track starts as a fairly smooth gravel road (120km) on the Useless Loop road from Hamlyn Pool on Shark Bay via Tamala Station.</p><p>Note the gravel used is salt residue from the salt works and will become quite corrosive when wet. Wash down the underside of your vehicle if returning after rain.</p><p>The road deteriorates as you approach Steep Point National Park where it becomes a difficult, narrow sandy track (40km) across several challenging sand dunes and along a beach to the Ranger Station and camping area.</p><p>The actual Steep Point location and sign board is a difficult 7km drive further on from the camp ground.</td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #a70402;"><strong>D</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Gary Highway</p><p>(2007)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Kunawaritji to Everard Junction on the Gunbarrel Highway</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 585px;">Very corrugated, remote and lonely but quite easy. Small washaways at the southern end.</p><p>No facilities, 400 kms from Kunawaritji to Everard Junction on the Gunbarrel Highway, plus another 400 kms to Warburton via the Gunbarrel and Heather Highways.</p><p>Veevers Crater and McPhersons Pillar are worth investigation. Permits may now be needed.</p><p>See my Wiki entry at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gary_Highway">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gary_Highway</a>.</td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Eagle Highway</p><p>(2012)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Great Central Road to the Talawana Track </em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 585px;">Very variable, narrow and very overgrown in places, the track is almost indiscernible and poses a navigation hazard. There maybe large washaway's needing diversions.</p><p>No facilities, although the workmen at the sandalwood plant are very accommodating with water.</p><p>800 kms from Great Central Road to Kunawaritji (Well 33) via the Talawana Track and CSR.</td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #a70402;"><strong>D</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Hunt Oil Road</p><p>(2013)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Great Central Road to Geraldton Bore</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 585px;">Moderately difficult and seldom used. Beware of a soft section near Alexander Spring.</p><p>250km from the Great Central Road to Geraldton Bore on the Gunbarrel Highway.</p><p>No facilities but good camping at the caves. Good water at Geraldton Bore.</td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #f400ff;"><strong>MD</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Talawana Track</p><p>(2012)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Windy Corner on the Gary Highway to the CSR</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 585px;">Very corrugated but quite easy. No facilities except good water at Midway Well.</p><p>200 kms from Eagle Highway Junction to the CSR near Well 24. Permits may now be needed.</td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Kidson Track</p><p>(2012)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Kunawaritji (Well 33 on the CSR) to SW Coastal Highway at 80 Mile beach</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 585px;">This track used to be a very challenging 4wd track from Kunawaritji (Well 33 on the CSR) to 80 Mile beach.</p><p>During 2012, much of the western end of the track was graded to allow access for mining vehicles and has become a wide smooth gravel road. The eastern 200km still has demanding sand dunes and overgrown section.</p><p>650kms, no facilities.</td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #a70402;"><strong>D</strong></span> to <span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Parmango Road</p><p>(2011)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Balladonia to Condingup (Cape Arid)</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 585px;">This is a useful shortcut (in distance, not time) between Balladonia and Cape Arid (Condingup township, store/fuel).</p><p>200 km, wide track but rough in the Balladonia section, better at the southern end. Would be difficult in the wet.</p><p>Sign at northern end restricts vehicles to 4WD and 3Tonnes. No signs at the southern end and unnecessary anyway.</p><p>Be aware that the Mt Ragged alternative route to Cape Arid (turns off half way along) may be narrow and impassable after rain and Esperance can be a very wet area.</td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Gunbarrel Highway</p><p>(2007 and 2013)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Warburton to Willuna via Everard Junction, Geraldton Bore and Carnegie Station</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 585px;">Len Beadell’s iconic (but not first) outback track. Not too difficult these days but still long and lonely and corrugated.</p><p>The Heather Highway section from Warburton to Everard Junction is very corrugated. Almost as bad is the section from Geraldton Bore to the Willuna Shire boundary where the shire’s periodic grading makes the track easier going.</p><p>Many pools after rain, bypass tracks are common.</p><p>800km, facilities only at Carnegie Station (fuel, camping). Good water at Geraldton Bore.</td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #f400ff;"><strong>MD</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Holland Track</p><p>(2013)</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 585px;">We’ve only done the western 20km. Stopped by very frequent deep muddy pools. Bypass tracks are also soft, don’t try this track after rain. Narrow, overgrown and probably a very challenging sandy track requiring possible vehicle recovery from soft surfaces.</td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #ff141a;"><strong>VD</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 127px;">Connie Sue Highway</p><p>(2013)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Southern section, Neale Junction on the Anne Beadell to Rawlinna</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 584px;">Seldom travelled and very variable track south from Neale Junction on the Anne Beadell Highway to Rawlinna on the Trans Australia Railway line. (Doesn’t include the 250km northern section from Warburton).</p><p>The initial 250km section south is smooth, fast and scenic as is the next 75km on the wide Aboriginal Business Road. Heading south, the turn-off left on to the original Connie Sue track is poorly marked with an oil drum and easily missed. The final 200km to Rawlinna is a narrow and rocky track with navigation becoming more difficult as it crosses cattle stations with a myriad of unmarked muddy tracks and gates. Mining operations at Rawlinna has further changed access to the town (which was completely deserted in Sept 2013).</p><p>500km with no facilities (even at Rawlinna), but a water tank at the AB road junction.</p><p>No permit required for this southern section but permits are required for the northern section to/from Warburton (difficult to get, we’ve tried 3 times).</p><p>The final 150km track to the Eyre Highway at Cocklebiddy proved difficult to locate and we went 80km east to Haig (deserted) along the railway access track and took a slow track south from there 120km across the Nullarbor Plain.</td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #f400ff;"><strong>MD</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Great Sandy Desert</p><p>(2014)</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 585px;">Very difficult navigational challenge, from Cherrabun Station south east of Fitzroy Crossing, south west across mostly trackless desert for 400km of the 700km, with very few significant surface landmarks. The route follows old mining tracks and cut lines where still visible and runs via the McLarty Hills and Dragon Tree Soak to the Anna Plains Track and Sandfire Roadhouse on the NW Costal Highway.</p><p>Very slow going, navigating over and around medium to dense desert scrub and 100’s of soft sand dunes.</p><p>700km over 13 days (more if side trips are planned, such as Joanna Springs). Average speed around 10 to 20km/h with daily distances of between 25 to 50km. Tracks and cut lines, where they still exist, are mostly very overgrown and impassable.</p><p>Very high fuel consumption (allow for 3 times normal road consumption), NO facilities and NO useable surface water. Plan for multiple, severe tyre damage. </p><p>Don’t try this route alone or without good comms, navigation and technical support, and anticipate no other travellers in the area.</p><p>Must be totally self-sufficient for 2 weeks as an absolute minimum.</td><td style="border: 1px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #ff141a;"><strong>VD</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><table style="border-collapse: collapse; empty-cells: show;"><tbody></p><p><tr><td colspan="3" style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; width: 831px;"><strong>SA-WA</strong></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 130px;">Anne Beadell Highway</p><p>(2008)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Coober Pedy to Laverton</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">Very long (1500 kms), fairly straight but extremely corrugated. This track will test you and your vehicle’s endurance so travel in a small group. Good desert scenery plus a section of sand hills.</p><p>No reliable water on SA side, fuel and supplies at Ilkurlka Roadhouse plus 3 rain water tanks on WA side.</p><p>Items of interest: Atomic bomb sites, Emu Field and Dingo Claypan, Aircraft wreck.</p><p>Several permits needed in SA, WA and from the Department of Defence (crosses the Woomera Prohibited Area).</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 94px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #a70402;"><strong>D</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><table style="border-collapse: collapse; empty-cells: show;"><tbody></p><p><tr><td colspan="3" style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; width: 831px;"><strong>WA-NT</strong></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 130px;">Sandy Blight Junction Road</p><p>(2008)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Great Central Road to Sandy Blight Junction on the Gary Junction Road</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">Winding and tortuous but interesting (400 kms and longer than expected).</p><p>Deep corrugated sand alternating with rocky gravel. Interesting scenery on the southern section. Permit needed.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 94px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #f400ff;"><strong>MD</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 130px;">Tanami Track</p><p>(1994, 2002 and 2014)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Alice Springs to Halls Creek</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">Long gravel track (1100 kms) but not too difficult.</p><p>Reasonable facilities along the way. Rabbit Flat Roadhouse is no longer operating and this can catch people out if you need fuel half way along but Yuendumu and Tilmouth Well road houses are open.</p><p>No facilities at the Granites Goldmine.</p><p>Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater is well worth a visit, free camp site, no water, crappy corrugated 20km access track.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 94px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 130px;">Great Central Road</p><p>(2008, 2012 and 2013)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Yulara to Laverton via Docker River, Warakurna (Giles) and Warburton</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">Easy going but not very inspiring. The road now bypasses all the native wells along the way, which is disappointing. Giles Met Office is well worth a visit and kms of desert oaks are rewarding.</p><p>1000 kms from Laverton to Yulara, +/- a couple.</p><p>Facilities at Docker River, Warakurna and Warburton. Stock up at Yulara or Laverton.</p><p>2 permits required, for the NT section from Yulara to the WA Border and another from the WA Border to Laverton.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 94px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 130px;">Gary Junction Road</p><p>(2007 and 2008)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Alice Springs to Newman</em></span> </td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">Long straight and easy track which passes some historic outback locations: Sandy Blight Junction, Talawana, Gary Highway Junction, CSR, Rudall River National Park.</p><p>Good camping at Jupiter Well.</p><p>Facilities at Papunya, Kintore, Kiwikurra and Kunawaritji (Well 33 on the CSR).</p><p>1500 kms Alice to Newman. Alternate route through Rudall River NP to Marble Bar. Permits needed.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 94px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><table style="border-collapse: collapse; empty-cells: show;"><tbody></p><p><tr><td colspan="3" style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; width: 831px;"><strong>Tasmania</strong></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 130px;">Road to Nowhere</p><p>(2005)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Stanley to Strachan</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 582px;">This is an interesting winding track down the western side of Tassie.</p><p>Depending on the season it can be cold, wet and cloudy or misty but there is plenty of vegetation, water features, coastal access and green hills.</p><p>The surface is gravel which can be slippery, but the steep hilly sections are bitumen.</p><p>There is a ferry at Corinna across the Pieman River.</p><p>Beware of leeches on the damp vegetation.</p><p>300 kms, no facilities between Corrinna and Strachan.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><table style="border-collapse: collapse; empty-cells: show;"><tbody></p><p><tr><td colspan="3" style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; width: 831px;"><strong>NT-SA</strong></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 129px;">Old Andado Track</p><p>(2005 and 2012)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Alice Springs to Oodnadatta via Old Andado</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">Nice remote red sand dune country, some deep sandy sections.</p><p>Old Andado Station is worth a visit for a cup of tea and camping.</p><p>Access to Dalhousie Hot Springs (Witjira/Simpson Desert National Park) which is good for camping and swimming, even in winter (100 m long lake with water at 38º all year round).</p><p>800 kms, no facilities except at Mt Dare Roadhouse.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #f400ff;"><strong>MD</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><table style="border-collapse: collapse; empty-cells: show;"><tbody></p><p><tr><td colspan="3" style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; width: 831px;"><strong>WA-QLD</strong></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 129px;">The Outback Way</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Winton, Qld to Laverton WA, via Alice Springs</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">A notional highway which links up existing tracks and roads (on paper anyway) into a 3000km continuous “highway” from Winton in Queensland to Laverton in WA.</p><p>The tracks are the Plenty Highway, the Stuart Highway and Great Central Road via Yulara. It might include the Mareenie loop road in the future. Only the Stuart Highway and Yulara sections are sealed</p><p>Note this highway is promoted on brochures as a “short cut” alternative 3rd highway from Queensland to WA, but is not signposted as such on the ground and exists at the moment only in the minds of tourism planners.</p><p>Its length and convoluted nature requires considerable advanced planning, refer <a href="http://www.outbackway.org.au/">here</a>.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 129px;">Plenty Highway</p><p>(2002)</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">Fairly easy track but the QLD end is not well marked or maintained.</p><p>6-700 kms depending where you end up in QLD.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 129px;">Sandover Highway</p><p>(2005)</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">Roughly parallels the Plenty bit further south. More interesting since it is less used and is more sandy, as the name implies. Same difficulty in locating the start in Queensland as the Plenty.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 95px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><table style="border-collapse: collapse; empty-cells: show;"><tbody></p><p><tr><td colspan="3" style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; width: 831px;"><strong>Northern Territory</strong></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Old Karanje Track</p><p>(1994 and 2012)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>El Questro on the Gibb River Road to Wyndham</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">From El Questro on the Gibb River Road to Wyndham the back way around the Cockburn Ranges.</p><p>No Facilities and very variable terrain which changes after each wet season. Can be rocky and slow.</p><p>Allow a full day and be croc aware around Wyndham.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 96px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #a70402;"><strong>D</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Mareenie Loop Road</p><p>(2005 and 2008)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Kings Canyon to Hermansberg</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">Very scenic road from Kings Canyon to Hermansberg, but very corrugated in parts.</p><p>200 kms. Permit needed.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 96px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #f400ff;"><strong>MD</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Parry Lagoon Road</p><p>(2012)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Wyndham highway at Parry Lagoon to Kununurra</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">Linking the Wyndham highway to Kununurra, this former highway is now a pleasant gravel track.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 96px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 128px;">Davenport Ranges Track</p><p>(2012)</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">Links the Stuart Highway to the Davenport Ranges National Park</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 96px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><table style="border-collapse: collapse; empty-cells: show;"><tbody></p><p><tr><td colspan="3" style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; width: 831px;"><strong>WA-NT</strong></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 126px;">Gibb River Road</p><p>(1994, 2007 and 2012)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Derby to Kunnunurra</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">Very rough, long and corrugated in places but this is more than made up for by the many scenic gorges, water falls and rivers along the way.</p><p>650 kms excluding Mitchell Falls, which is another 600 kms round trip from the Gibb River Road junction, see below.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 98px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #a70402;"><strong>D</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 126px;">Mitchell Falls Road</p><p>(2007)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Gibb River Road to Mitchell Falls</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">Very corrugated track but leads to the beautiful Mitchell falls area so it's worth the suffering. Good camping at Drysdale Station, King Edward River and at the falls, which are a 3km walking trek (or helicopter ride) and water crossing from the campground.</p><p>Extra trek to Surveyors Pool (croc warning) is worthwhile on a newly made but re-aligned track, which now starts further north than marked on maps.</p><p>Access to Port Warender (no facilities) is also possible but the track is VERY steep and tortuous towards the end.</p><p>600 kms return from Gibb River Road junction including Surveyors Pool.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 98px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #a70402;"><strong>D</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><table style="border-collapse: collapse; empty-cells: show;"><tbody></p><p><tr><td colspan="3" style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; width: 831px;"><strong>QLD-SA</strong></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 126px;">Birdsville Track</p><p>(2008)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Birdsville to Maree</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">Easy but wide, rocky desert track. Nice mirages when it's hot and sunny. After extensive rain, the Cooper Creek can be very wide and a punt operates for small/medium vehicles.</p><p>Can be very dusty (300 kms)</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 98px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #03ff4d;"><strong>QE</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><table style="border-collapse: collapse; empty-cells: show;"><tbody></p><p><tr><td colspan="3" style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px;"><strong>QLD-NT</strong></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 125px;">Savannah Way</p><p>(1998, 2008 and 2010)</p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Normanton to Katherine via Burketown and Borolloola</em></span></td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 583px;">The main gravel highway (National Highway 1, although you wouldn’t know it) from Normanton to Katherine via Burketown and Borolloola.</p><p>Long, hot, dusty but interesting, plenty of creek crossings (mostly rocky).</p><p>Plenty to see and places to stay. Karumba, Leichart Falls, Limmen National Park, Roper River. Be croc aware along this road.</p><p>Diversions to Lawn Hill National Park and Kingfisher Camp are worthwhile.</p><p>800kms, some facilities at Hells Gate Roadhouse and Borolloola.</td><td style="border: 2px solid rgb(191,191,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px; vertical-align: top; width: 99px;"><div style="text-align: center;"></p><p><span style="color: #f400ff;"><strong>MD</strong></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p>If you have any updated info on any of these tracks please leave a comment below.</p><p>Thank you.</p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-11390084865107875562014-11-16T16:48:00.018+10:302017-09-23T09:17:11.579+09:30Darwin to Adelaide<strong>25 Aug</strong><br />
We are at the Manbulloo campsite in Katherine planning our trip up to Darwin before starting the long journey home.<br />
Had a lazy morning so far, managed to access the internet for what to do in Darwin that we haven’t already done.<br />
A day trip to the Tiwi Islands seemed like a good idea but when I searched for info all I got were confusing and misleading stuff about Aboriginal Tours (the only kind you can get and need a permit to visit anyway), and nowhere to book an economical tour ($250 by ferry or $450 by air, each) either. So I looked at Trip Advisor and all the comments were negative, waste of a day, no culture (no dancing, no art sites, no scenery etc), all time spent in one arts place, childish paintings, expensive arts, money, money, money etc and basically waste of time and money.<br />
So that’s off the agenda, in favour of a $30 per 24 hours hop on-hop off double decker bus tour. It got tons of good reviews, even though we’ve done most of the places before, not having to drive, park, walk about in the heat seems a more and more attractive option.<br />
In the afternoon we went shopping in Katherine for food, fuel and gas, all successfully, plus Janet bought some shorts in Rockmans as she always does. It was stinking hot but the counter girl in Rockmans was wearing jeans, a long jumper and a woolly scarf and still complained of feeling cold. Must have had hypothermia or ebola or something else exotic.<br />
<strong>26 Aug</strong><br />
In the cool of the morning I did a spot of maintenance, checked the gearbox and transfer case oil, all OK, and greased the rear drive shaft UJs.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<img alt="IMG_6466-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-plqSfWjLuO4/VBqF0WkVMeI/AAAAAAAAOAk/M4RSy2Gwo2E/IMG_6466-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /></div>
In the late morning we set off north stopping for lunch at Pine Creek and then a leg stretch at Adelaide River.<br />
We had decided not to reach Darwin tonight as it’s a long hot drive and fighting the Darwin traffic to find a camping place would be hard to bare. So we spied a camping area at the Manton Dam Wall, officially a picnic area, about 70km short of Darwin and stopped here. It was a bit noisy but there were a few other campers here, some more happy with the arrangements than others:<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<img alt="IMG_6469-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-46b0cHVfdyM/VBqIoPRJw5I/AAAAAAAAOJ0/dMSTsN9gTg4/IMG_6469-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /></div>
So it wasn’t too bad and we cooked and ate outside since it’s darn hot (mid 30’s during the day and it doesn’t cool off much until the early hours).<br />
<strong>27 Aug</strong><br />
Not a good day in Darwin, which is a pity since our previous visits have been very relaxing and friendly.<br />
The drive up wasn’t too bad, 70km over fairly good roads, choked with road trains though, and ended up on a big freeway right into the city centre. We diverted to the waterfront, an area we hadn’t explored much before and stopped on Stokes Hill Wharf for a look at the sea. It’s a bit like a mini Glenelg with lots of eateries and a few souvenir shops. The menus make interesting reading but how can you be sure you’re really getting a camel burger and not a piece of horse meat?<br />
<img alt="IMG_6486-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NdenPHMAGWA/VBqFIqOjsOI/AAAAAAAAN-M/5t0aM9Izzkc/IMG_6486-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="427" /><br />
Nearby in a small park were a pair of stone curlews nesting. Their habit is to freeze when alarmed which makes them easy to photograph but also easy prey for dingos and raptors:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6481-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RNiQfz8yBAo/VBqEWFt2uyI/AAAAAAAAN7c/6uhG2oVTvEM/IMG_6481-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
But mostly Stokes Hill Wharf was good because it has free parking. Make a note of that, it’s now the only place in the city where that’s still possible.<br />
Fishing restrictions:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6489-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1A_I6_ySRrY/VBqGcPfjMyI/AAAAAAAAOCk/S2awkCE29qY/IMG_6489-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Interesting news from the NT:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6484-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OBySdehfRtM/VBqEuA4BtiI/AAAAAAAAN8s/hmFzTdFWwY4/IMG_6484-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
From there we drove up to the Esplanade, the main touristy section of park lands along the foreshore and opposite the parliament buildings, and all looked much the same except for the plethora of blue parking pay machines which now smother the city at around 10m intervals, and at $2.40 an hour (no notes or 5c pieces) it’s no longer the welcoming place for visitors it used to be. On our last trip this area had free visitor parking. We tried visiting the visitor centre to find out what else had changed but there was nowhere to park there either. In frustration we headed north to the East Point Military Reserve where there are excellent free car parks and good walking tracks along the cliff tops with plenty of memorabilia to visit too.<br />
Later we trundled though the busy traffic and hectic road works to Lee Point where we had camped in the caravan park there quite economically before. But horror of horrors, it’s now charging $50 per night for an unpowered site. I remonstrated that it was a ridiculous cost for a patch of land for a night and twice the price we had paid in Katherine only 2 days ago but we were told, “well you could drive out of the city and park on the road side somewhere”. So I explained the lady how to clinically dispose of her offer and we did drive out of town, and saved $50 in doing so, along with quite a few other travellers. On the way we called another CP and was told the same story, $50 a night, and more for a powered site.<br />
Strike me lucky!, Darwin has priced itself out of the Value for Money criteria. Worse than that, fuel is 10-15c a litre more than in Katherine (and there’s a lot more competition here), and the whole of Darwin is undergoing rampant development with industrial and housing estates now going up in every spare hectare of land across the city. This makes it a hot, dry, dusty as well as frustrating place to be.<br />
There are no RV friendly facilities in Darwin, as there are now in many other towns and cities, and the government has failed to grasp the economic benefits of the huge number of self sufficient wealthy travelling nomads. By way of example these signs have sprung up all over Darwin:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6511-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jtSxCaCyKqI/VBqE0alVoEI/AAAAAAAAN9E/MRncYBbl8wM/IMG_6511-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Given that tourism sustains the economics of the NT, it’s very surprising and sad that they are paying scant regard to the needs of tourists, to the point that we won’t be spending any of our tourist dollars in Darwin anymore, and we have heard the same story from other travellers. Presumably their eyes and cash registers are firmly pointed in the direction of China, and bugger the rest of us.<br />
We did think Broome would be the economic low point of our trip but Darwin has firmly taken the lead, by a long way. Broome was actually very affordable as well as being a lot nicer, freer and more relaxing.<br />
We stayed in the same place for several more nights, the slight inconvenience and addition fuel costs far outweighing the $250 in camping cost we’d otherwise have incurred.<br />
<strong>28 Aug</strong><br />
Well I feel a bit better today. After a late start caused by talking for too long to a lonely old fellow in a small Winnebago (who had formed the same opinion of Darwin as we had), we drove back into Darwin and “lunched” on the Stokes Hill Wharf.<br />
There are lot of plaques around commemorating the first bombing raids by the Japanese in February 1942 which killed around 300 people in the docks area and sunk 21 ships…<br />
<img alt="IMG_6535-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ktqlkhsLUKw/VBqFWj9_rWI/AAAAAAAAN-8/jpYLnzNv2u0/IMG_6535-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
So it was a bit ironic to see a Japanese naval ship tied up alongside RAN ships on the wharf.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6532-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1nhd_IO18TE/VBqHhfnOSzI/AAAAAAAAOGM/OuLr7omgql0/IMG_6532-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
This is our outdoor cinema day, which I’d booked up earlier, so in the afternoon we awaited darkness by revisiting the MAGNT (Museum and Art Gallery of NT) which is icy cold inside and free and quite good. It still has the same exhibits as on our previous visit, the Cyclone Tracy exhibit, which is very good, and a wildlife section and a lot of indigenous artworks and some from the SA Asia region.<br />
We pottered along past Mindl Beach which they were setting up for the sunset markets and back to the cinema carpark which (as all parking areas are in Darwin) is mercifully free after 5pm, Saturday arvos and all day Sunday.<br />
The Deckchair Cinema is a 50 year old, volunteer-run, not-for-profit Darwin tradition. The earlier Star Theatre was destroyed by cyclone Tracy and replaced by the current outdoor theatre at the waters edge beneath the Esplanade. It’s surrounded by palm trees and shrubs to give it a sheltered aspect.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6539-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-um-AckifG38/VBqGGo1WuNI/AAAAAAAAOBc/NuFI2sd4ooo/IMG_6539-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The deckchairs are metal and canvas affairs (they do provide cushions, plus we took our own), similar to the Sun Picture Theatre in Broome.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6553-6554-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="227" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TS518gtyufY/VBqI01lk3_I/AAAAAAAAOKk/xO7EHQf1ODY/IMG_6553-6554-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
Meals, (like a “help-yourself BBQ” and which are provided each day by a separate fund-raising charity) and drinks can be bought and eaten at tables prior to the movie, or in your deckchair if you’re careful.<br />
Films change every day and the film we saw was “Tracks”, a new all Australian movie recounting Robyn Davidson’s 8 month solo trek (with 4 camels and dog) across the western deserts of Australia from Alice Springs to the Indian Ocean in 1977. Her story was published in <em>National Geographic</em> in 1978. We don’t know why it took 35 years to turn into a movie but it was very well done.<br />
<img alt="PastedGraphic1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="384" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EdZI3aaM1nk/VBqHVX2FyCI/AAAAAAAAOFc/3zItBaNg22Q/PastedGraphic1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
Since we had done almost the same trip last year from Alice Springs via Docker River and Warburton and along the Gunbarrel Highway right out to Steep Pinot on the west coast, it was quite meaningful and familiar, although quite a lot of cinematic licence was taken with locations (it was all shot in SA and the NT), the scenery, the story and her obvious love of her camels and dog Diggity was extremely effective. It does have some sad moments but overall a good experience in a very different movie environment. It got cool but not cold and there were a few external distractions, like a ship passing by with lights blazing, and a few mossies, but it was a good night out for $12 each. See the trailer <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-DiOyxCQQI">here</a>.<br />
Late at night we drove back to our Manton Dam campsite in the dark and along the way called Scott who is leaving for his European adventure/honeymoon on Saturday, meeting up with Tash who’s on a business trip in Croatia. It was the usual long call and halfway through our credit ran out, so he called back and then the signal disappeared as we drove out of range. But by then all had been said that needed to be said, and more.<br />
<strong>29 Aug</strong><br />
Instead of traveling back into Darwin today, we (that is I) decided to divert up the Arnhem Highway to the Mary River NP for a couple of days where we knew we could get up close with large crocs, we’d been there before, in 2008. Then we could head back to Darwin on Sunday, refuel or what ever, visit the Mindl Beach markets in the late afternoon and make our exit from Darwin and head south.<br />
However the Arnhem Highway is not the nice country drive it used to be, for a start the sides of the road are infected by commercial advertising signs for everything from <em>Water Tanks</em> to <em>Bottl-O’s</em> to <em>Dig Your Own Power Pole Holes</em>, second there are a plethora or 3 of road trains and army vehicles roaring down a not very wide road.<br />
We stopped for lunch at Fogg Dam reserve, built in the early 1900’s as a rice growing area for export to SE Asia, but failed to survive due the Asian’s developing their own rice industry.<br />
This heron had caught something but it didn’t look very fish like, maybe a small eel:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6576-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kf4Cp0OHjgE/VBqFSCDH1ZI/AAAAAAAAN-s/4lUmFFdhjuI/IMG_6576-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Janet on a hot forest walk:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6573-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uxFPt7gwNcc/VBqJb65etVI/AAAAAAAAOME/AMJNpQCwrKY/IMG_6573-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
We are camped in the Mary River NP at Couzens Lookout, a free campsite overlooking a large billabong in the Mary River.<br />
It was hot so we sat outside in the evening computing:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6581-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ArXAlHTF2nw/VBqHq-Bl10I/AAAAAAAAOG0/LoY0SkkpEOI/IMG_6581-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<strong>30 Aug</strong><br />
There is a lot of wildlife here (but fortunately no other campers), kangaroos, noisy kookaburra’s, cape barren geese, pheasant coucals (see pic).<br />
<img alt="IMG_6596_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="478" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HVWtTCWodH4/VBqEPqNoM0I/AAAAAAAAN7M/EvqgfLFVJ4E/IMG_6596_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
And a cormorant drying its wings<br />
<img alt="IMG_6608-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GqG2JyYyl-A/VBqGQmiwnHI/AAAAAAAAOB8/F0pl6RG3saM/IMG_6608-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" width="640" /><br />
Under the Oka this morning is a pool of fluid, fortunately only radiator coolant. There’s been a drip from the thermostat housing for some time but now it’s worse so now it needs a new gasket, which I’ve got a spare one of. When the engine is hot the leak seems to subside so it’s not as bad as it looks. It’s only lost less than 2 litres of water so I can top that up daily.<br />
But to make things easier I’ll leave replacing it until we are at a more civilised location lest something serious goes wrong which I can’t fix here, a small leak is better than an avalanche, and replace the gasket in Darwin or Katherine in a few days where help is nearby if needed.<br />
Off to look for crocs this morning and we’ll return here tonight.<br />
So we looked around the Mary River here at the lookout but there had been a lot bigger wet season than the last time we were here and the river level is a lot higher and there were no river flats for crocs to lie on.<br />
We headed north and stopped off at Mistake Billabong for a lunch and look for wild animals but on the walk in it was me that made a mistake. There was a bitey fly buzzing around my head so I snapped off a small leafy eucalyptus branch as you do, for use as a fly whisk. Unbeknown to me green ants had constructed a nest on the branch, made of leaves bent over and glued along the edges, and they don’t like being disturbed, especially if being used as a fly whisk. <br />
<img alt="IMG_6644-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Hc6y64Wf_X8/VBqGJEGYAEI/AAAAAAAAOBk/JPxmTbIa6MA/IMG_6644-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
After a couple of waves of my whisk the bitey fly was quickly forgotten as I was covered in bitey green ants instead, inside and outside my shirt and up my shorts and all over the camera case I was carrying. I had to strip off and remove each of the hundreds of ants one at a time as they bit me, the camera case, my shirt and ultimately Janet who came to my rescue. It took a good 5 minutes but fortunately the bites are not venomous or long lasting, just annoying.<br />
These are the little blighters:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6697-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pk_qYGDTK6s/VBqE3WOMyXI/AAAAAAAAN9U/OFr4X_ZrayM/IMG_6697-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" width="640" /><br />
And instead of dangerous crocs we saw a feral water buffalo. These creatures can also be dangerous but this one was on the other side of the billabong. I thought they had been almost eradicated in the NT, Crocodile Dundee style, since they cause so much damage to waterways, but obviously not.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6637-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-abadcYdPTdg/VBqIpFW2MoI/AAAAAAAAOJ8/q30CnHfuiOM/IMG_6637-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" width="640" /><br />
After lunch we drove north to Shady Lagoon, where we knew from past experience is where to find crocs, lots of crocs, and we were’t disappointed.<br />
At the viewing platform we could see at least 8 or 9 crocs sunning themselves at various places on the far bank, and a few more cruising around just beneath the surface.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6646-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-spvOQnhNubs/VBqG8LMdzLI/AAAAAAAAOEE/8AchAgR99Lk/IMG_6646-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6660-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z9ukCyBvZrY/VBqGV6f1pKI/AAAAAAAAOCM/6KaBZ35Lb3Q/IMG_6660-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
It was at this very spot that in 2007 I dropped 2 rechargeable batteries through this grille on to the mud as I was changing them. Sadly they are no longer there but just like last time, I wasn’t intending to brave the croc river to retrieve them. <br />
<img alt="IMG_6655-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0WuhkSunZAE/VBqJRT3k4hI/AAAAAAAAOLs/LF67NpHH3Og/IMG_6655-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
A while later we spied a large croc, probably 4-5m long and weighing 500kg, heading slowly towards the nearby boat ramp so we went round to check it out.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6676-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ie1pXrouHwY/VBqHPEHXFSI/AAAAAAAAOFE/Ua2bTIbfms8/IMG_6676-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
It cautiously approached the ramp, just like we did.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6683-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HX_LenTW8W4/VBqEf1q-04I/AAAAAAAAN78/wq5olYU43As/IMG_6683-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
I walked tentatively towards him to about 10m away and he heaved himself a bit further on to the ramp and watched me. I bravely and sensibly backed away a bit.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6679-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VhQxc60Rl28/VBqI7JVWuEI/AAAAAAAAOK0/07UkQxLHeWE/IMG_6679-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Look at those interlocking teeth (which they are born/hatched with) with 10 tonnes per sq inch of crushing power.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6686-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yScI6-a7wOU/VBqG4KIwrMI/AAAAAAAAOD0/2_20tFodhEI/IMG_6686-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" width="640" /><br />
We watched him (or her) for 10 minutes or so and he was definitely eyeing me up as a potential feed. I was a good 10m away up the ramp, but he obviously knew the boat ramp meant a potential meal, and this is probably why, at the very same spot. People are advised not to enter the water when launching boats, which this fellow did.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6650-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Kzbqa4-2K6w/VBqJEa7mDLI/AAAAAAAAOLM/9wPFvU4zTuU/IMG_6650-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
After we moved on he slid back into the river, a sure sign that we meant something to him. Perhaps he just wanted to be my friend?<br />
<img alt="IMG_6692_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="481" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z_sGphSe_eA/VBqIJ3QhUqI/AAAAAAAAOIM/yfHw6EL8ezY/IMG_6692_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Actually these are extremely dangerous creatures, they are Australia’s number one predator and not to be messed with. More people are killed by crocs each year than by snakes and sharks combined. The may look slow and fat out of the water but they can move at lightning speed when they want to, we witnessed that on our last visit when we surprised a croc laying on the bank. It surprised us too….<br />
There’s a law in the NT prohibiting boats from approaching within 10m of a croc, and the same common sense applies to foot traffic too. While you’re focussed on one croc, another could be creeping up behind you…<br />
Subsequently we went to Mindl Beach markets in Darwin where a young lady from the Crocodylus Park (where you can take home a “Crocodile BBQ Pack”) was showing off a small one year old hatchling, which Janet had a hold of (the young lady wasn’t allowed to let go of the croc as some people have be known to run off with them):<br />
<img alt="IMG_6721-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-83YzZpSpXKM/VBqGE1lM9eI/AAAAAAAAOBU/dmjiLjgp3mY/IMG_6721-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6722-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mt6aHwydhl4/VBqFntDiQXI/AAAAAAAAN_8/B4A8adf_5VY/IMG_6722-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Actually they feel like a cold sausage, but all smooth on their underside (the valuable part, aren’t they all?). If it was in the wild, this one could have grown as large as our Mary River specimen (even at one year old it could snap your finger off, their jaw muscles have a mechanical leverage mechanism like bolt cutters). But sadly this one will have long since become handbags and shoes.<br />
That night I invented a better way to keep my beer cool between sips, using second stubby cooler as a lid. Worked pretty well.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6695_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--G1FfBGzEzY/VBqFhhjGJ1I/AAAAAAAAN_s/kTlI6_Zm0Sw/IMG_6695_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<strong>31 Aug</strong><br />
Today we left our Couzens Lookout camp on the Mary River and headed 140km back for a last look around Darwin before departing south.<br />
We “lunched” on the Esplanade where parking is free on Sundays, and walked around the many military memorials along the shady grasslands on the top of the cliff overlooking Darwin Harbour. Commemorative wartime plaques are still being erected there, the latest being in 2012 in memory of Canadian Signals and Communications forces who operated here in the latter stages of the war.<br />
This the memorial to the USS Peary, sunk with the loss of 91 sailors during the first Japanese bombing raid on Darwin on 19 Feb 1942, the first ever raid on Australian Soil (other than the European invasion of 1788). At that time invasion was far from expected and there were only 2 fighters (US Kittyhawks) to protect the whole of northern Australia. They were both destroyed on convoy protection and their pilots were lost, but due to a news blackout of the raids, the bravery and sacrifices of the defenders was never disclosed or commemorated until after the war. Neither was the plan disclosed to abandon the northern half of Australia in the event of full scale invasion and defend only across the Brisbane-Alice Springs-Port Hedland line, roughly across the 23rd parallel.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6708-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hSM4zCA_J1c/VBqEm_QyFLI/AAAAAAAAN8U/aXFG-GSnZYI/IMG_6708-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Over the next 3 years a large number is airstrips and military facilities were constructed in WA and the NT and particularly around Darwin and many can still be visited although sadly some are now on private land and only informative plaques remain. A pity because they are useful camping areas where you can immerse yourself in history. Just recently the site of the secret Z Force commando regiment, whose exploits have never been fully disclosed to this day, was ploughed up for an industrial site. The NT Govt considered a plaque was all that was needed.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6711-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cHmUNgTZtZo/VBqHX9vT2II/AAAAAAAAOFk/eJbfqECWBtg/IMG_6711-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
We paddled in the sea off Mindl Beach so technically we’ve been in the sea in Darwin, something you are not supposed to do due to deadly crocs, jelly fish, sharks, cone shells etc. but we did paddle between the flags.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6717-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QbzxO2VPGCE/VBqD-2_dkwI/AAAAAAAAN6c/w9REJHQ8ykY/IMG_6717-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6715-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDvwb4SwaCtcNAthw8InvyE9W-5F01M6YpKOh8L9wF5_JHQFTXcp43keT79L6rhyphenhyphene9g6ifl5n3IOwBT-EysK6XdIn-Y6jm9M2KyJsDTFfe0PjD6_q0bpqqRkXQe0C3fbf6mGxjBYWw9SVo/" width="640" /><br />
We mingled with all the young and beautiful people in Mindl Beach markets where we sampled spring rolls and a fruit salad and Janet bought some more earrings, as normal.<br />
But there were a few new stall types:<br />
Eco-Nappies. Actual cloth nappies you don’t have to throw away. Well who’d have thought of that? But they do come in colours other than white.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6723_2-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y7w_dZHO65Y/VBqFd6-OwNI/AAAAAAAAN_c/t8_wJbjvHtI/IMG_6723_2-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
And the <a href="http://ismashed.com/">iSmashed.com</a> stall where you can have your broken iPhone screen replaced in 30 mins for only $149. 2 guys twiddling miniature screwdrivers on microscopic screws from a magnetic pad, but there’s probably more to it than that.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6718_2-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhawV04IJz6DmRUVYZp-Nw6daoy7SorHRGdUSaX0R-9fGVQZHirtJ_Bz0gOVL2zGiIWnHLWzUr6HC4ALL3K-YLoOsyws7TWrdA1PYFpVZfLGLVMrenY1_f-fRCd-T9LOQdTpBubRaILMF7M/" width="640" /><br />
Halfway through, everyone departed over the sand dune to the beach and just sat there looking.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6734-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IHj0o3CF0aE/VBqGYIQvZXI/AAAAAAAAOCU/H3OwQ5bgwbQ/IMG_6734-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6733-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5ERDJbUMADQ/VBqH6-42YVI/AAAAAAAAOHk/p50QXkS2nuc/IMG_6733-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
At this, more photons from outer space. Moisture and smoke which hangs in the Darwin air always causes spectacularly colourful photons:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6739-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CJsqlmZMCok/VBqJNLo0IbI/AAAAAAAAOLk/nOGjGugnkhY/IMG_6739-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6744-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TgekcmG2SuM/VBqGw_WJQlI/AAAAAAAAODk/HGb-s5aHcMM/IMG_6744-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Our last Darwin sunset, for a while:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6754_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xn7615NH1KM/VBqHe2zJ6sI/AAAAAAAAOF8/yaLzVMFjNYg/IMG_6754_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
After the ball was over we drove back to our our Manton Dam Campsite for the night, which is on the way to Litchfield NP anyway.<br />
We’d spent 6 days in the Darwin area at a camping cost of $0, but it did cost around $50 in additional fuel costs. So we had an extra $200 to spend on other things.<br />
<table style="border-collapse: collapse; empty-cells: show;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="background-color: #eafca8; border: 2px solid rgb(141,171,191); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,5px,0px,5px;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<em><strong>There are still good things to see and do in Darwin that don’t cost a fortune,</strong></em></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<em><strong>but caravan parks and street parking are not ones of them.</strong></em></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
When we got to know the new Darwin a bit better there are still lots of good things to see and do there. We liked:<br />
<ul style="list-style-type: disc;">
<li>Stokes Hill Wharf,</li>
<li>The Esplanade,</li>
<li>The Deckchair Cinema,</li>
<li>The Museum and Art Gallery,</li>
<li>East Point Military Reserve,</li>
<li>Coolalinga Shopping Centre,</li>
<li>The Mindl Beach Markets and</li>
<li>Cullen Bay.</li>
</ul>
On previous trips we also enjoyed:<br />
<ul style="list-style-type: disc;">
<li>The Aviation Heritage Museum,</li>
<li>Casuarina Shopping Centre,</li>
<li>The drive out to Gunn Point and Fright Point,</li>
<li>Fannie Bay beach,</li>
<li>The ferry to Mandorah or</li>
<li>The drive around from Darwin to Mandorah to visit the 1945 <a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com/2009/07/milady-tragedy-liberator-crash-at.html">Milady Liberator crash site</a>.</li>
</ul>
<strong>1 Sept</strong><br />
This morning we took the Old Bynoe Road west to the Litchfield Park road to cut off the corner. It was so old some of it has disappeared and we had to do a bit of skilful navigating to get on the correct road.<br />
We stopped to lower the tyre pressures for the 40km or so of gravel on the back road to Litchfield since it was a lot more corrugated than we recall from previous trips.<br />
We called in at a couple of sites where magnetic termite mounds had been built, flat on the east/west side and thin on the north/south side to minimise the heat from the sun.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6767-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_ANpp1ns9Wc/VBqJhvwwF9I/AAAAAAAAOMU/P2MiqQSO2H4/IMG_6767-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6774-6775-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="231" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hrS9dVvdzYk/VBqJYiZtYVI/AAAAAAAAOL8/5UvLtGjXd6Y/IMG_6774-6775-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
We checked one out and it was built exactly magnetic N/S within a degree or 2, to minimise solar heating. Moreover, the mounds were slightly curved, and leaned towards the west to further minimise solar radiation since the sun is more powerful later in the day. Damn clever these termites.<br />
Photo taken at 10.30am. By noon the mound would be almost exactly in line with the sun.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6764-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-34ZVUgvdIWk/VBqFU6PQdOI/AAAAAAAAN-0/GM28NqNiTW0/IMG_6764-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
Further on we stopped for lunch at Walkers Creek where Janet dangled her toes in the creek.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6782-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S4TWEXAkIAs/VBqFOvU-FoI/AAAAAAAAN-c/Zsz7FXsC1wo/IMG_6782-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
We arrived at the Wangi Falls campground in the early afternoon (only $6.60 each and excellent facilities, plus a pretty good water feature out the back), but by then it was fiercely hot, so a quick swim in the pool was called for.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6804-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UlKWk5rs5pI/VBqJlMJdDrI/AAAAAAAAOMc/fnAXxUkDAjo/IMG_6804-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="481" /><br />
Me relaxing in the warm water:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6791-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gU3WwhXynTY/VBqI4eF4JoI/AAAAAAAAOKs/kbXzSMIIb7Q/IMG_6791-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
In the wet season the whole of this rock face would be covered in a raging torrent and hidden by spray (I’ve seen the photos), but it’s comforting that the park authorities are <em>fairly</em> certain there are no salties in the pool now (like there was last year and they had to close the pool for swimming, 3 weeks after they declared it free of salties). But they still maintain crocodile traps in the creeks.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6794-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uEsbjDtcM44/VBqGTZ5pwHI/AAAAAAAAOCE/z2M-7fsQWx0/IMG_6794-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
Flying Foxes (fruit bats) were roosting in the trees around the pool.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6797-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oF0jHyjp_Yk/VBqFvKqdeHI/AAAAAAAAOAU/bXWQgpL3d-c/IMG_6797-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6797_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="479" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-G98UHj6DmSI/VBqIU_omJtI/AAAAAAAAOIs/Vb2hcLIjsrk/IMG_6797_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
After our swim we had a $5 ice cream from the kiosk and chatted to a girl from Finland who was working there. She’d only been in Oz for a couple of months and was feeling the heat. She was cleaning out a freezer cabinet so we said “Why don’t you jump in it, you’ll feel at home?”. We repaired to the Oka for a cold beer since it was way past I don’t care when and I needed a cold drink.<br />
Bower birds mimicked and whirred their noisy songs all around us.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6807-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2LXCejxTBNI/VBqFLt0LXyI/AAAAAAAAN-U/l9TlxTFoH3g/IMG_6807-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
We had a nice tuna salad outside tonight since it was so hot, followed by strawberries and cr ème anglaise (custard) with red wine (since I’ve finished up all the white stuff), and we played our Farm Day music and reminisced about music practices. Maybe the bower birds will start mimicking our Farm Day music?<br />
Just on dusk, thousands of flying foxes left their roost around the pool and made their way silently overhead to wherever they go to feed at night. Smaller bats flitted around below treetop height catching some, but definitely not all the bugs which were/are annoying us.<br />
Whilst sitting out in the still of the evening, a black feral pig clomped and snuffling its way noisily passed our campsite looking for food scraps. There was an advisory notice about it on the way in and rangers have being trying to catch it. But we caught an image of the beast as it passed by our campsite for a second time. They are heavy creatures and can be dangerous if cornered.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6815-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="478" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jmODXNyDS88/VBqHFzB2o8I/AAAAAAAAOEk/EcuKj_HFZIQ/IMG_6815-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<strong>2 Sept</strong><br />
We went for a morning swim in the falls again since it got quite hot quite early but it’s not as good as in the later afternoon. The sun casts shade over the falls and most of the lake, there are fewer people about and the water seems a bit cooler in the mornings.<br />
After packing up we drove out to the highway and down a corrugated track to the Blyth Homestead. It was built as an outstation on the Stapleton Station in 1928 and housed 2 adults who eventually had 14 children there.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6826-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uYtNuxjXucw/VBqEGU_01aI/AAAAAAAAN6s/Df7JELZsZBI/IMG_6826-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6827-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Kz-1JQu_6GU/VBqE6EwKwpI/AAAAAAAAN9c/AUWTmTYb47s/IMG_6827-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The mother schooled the children and was cook on the main property, the father who was fiercely independent, ran the rural aspects and the elder children ran the market gardens alongside the creek and a tin mine near the small homestead. It was a tough life and none of the children left the homestead or saw anyone else or knew what money was until their early 20’s, they just worked for their father almost as slaves and for no pay.<br />
Mining tin was extremely hard work, they dug down 27 feet and then tunnelled outwards following the tin seam. Tin ore is heavy stuff, the large normal rock on the left weighs 22kg, the smaller lump of glittery tin ore in the centre weighs 43kg.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6823-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivas4Ggm3BblUi7QJx5hJCPF8YS8EU2EdvZckxs7731k88lBidLJx3VPGrq0Oc_xRpNBRzaqYD8dYzDCO-mJncx4CCIy7nySYw2b7ONL3r65oLCdFXteW1F_WHQjwfDQDWs4dCeqO5E2LQ/" width="640" /><br />
Then they had to break it up manually with large hammers, then pass it though several ore crushers and sluice the fine dust with water through hollowed out logs to sieve out the tin.<br />
Still, their father had the right idea about useful scraps of old iron:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6824-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PZI5E4PQ_lI/VBqHRpG9ZhI/AAAAAAAAOFM/k1CnGgcsIN0/IMG_6824-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
During the war they had a bit of excitement when a Japanese plane was shot down nearby and they got some useful info from it for the intelligence services.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6825-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bZa4vdoH1AU/VBqFFtVRp0I/AAAAAAAAN98/7Lxm8ClgLPc/IMG_6825-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
We had lunch at the homestead, which was much easier than mining tin, and then moved on to the Sandy Creek (Tjaynera) Falls for an afternoon swim.<br />
However, there was a tough little 1.7km walk to the falls so we were pretty hot when we got there and the water was colder but more refreshing than Wangi Falls.<br />
Janet taking a dip in the pool:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6834-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lyzSxrhpZ_E/VBqE-FpxreI/AAAAAAAAN9s/wzcdDpt7zUs/IMG_6834-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6837-6838_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ByrCluqATDE/VBqIXYpzZNI/AAAAAAAAOI0/3NtH2HRlHMQ/IMG_6837-6838_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="378" /><br />
Since it was getting late we decided to camp here but it’s not the best campsite around, for the same cost as the Wangi Falls campsite there is no rubbish collection so there are bags of garbage all around and only one loo with a cold water shower. But it will do for one night.<br />
<strong>3 Sept</strong><br />
Not such a good day today. Visited the Tolmer Falls but they weren’t that impressive with little water flowing over them.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6852-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Sc912miESr4/VBqErZ1RqqI/AAAAAAAAN8k/sE4dFCmDZgY/IMG_6852-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
There is a nice rock arch though which water would come in the wet season with a substantial force.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6854-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AjGcmxTTypo/VBqHo91lEuI/AAAAAAAAOGs/mFtlPHU_vtY/IMG_6854-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
We bypassed Buley Rockholes since there were a lot of tour busses in there and we’ve done it all before and headed out to Batchelor for lunch, and access to the internet for the first time in several days.<br />
There was a message from Scott who had arrived in Split (Croatia) all OK and with Tash they’re starting their European vacation/honeymoon, so that was a positive.<br />
After lunch we set out for some WW11 airstrips that we’d been to before for another look around and somewhere to stay. However I got extremely angry that they were now in private hands with locked and barred fences and gates so we couldn’t visit them anymore. So much for the NT government’s much proclaimed WW11 Heritage campaign. Their multi-coloured signboards still show Fenton Air Base as a W11 Heritage Site:<br />
<img alt="Heritage1-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fRk26W17Ld4/VBqHln0WnUI/AAAAAAAAOGc/nNKWoSH61xQ/Heritage1-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
Fenton in particular was my favourite with a graveyard of broken and wrecked aircraft to fossick through and runways to drive down. Sadly this is a trend all over the NT with WW11 memorabilia being lost for ever.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6856-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-shy5YiOVvLc/VBqH-NHIomI/AAAAAAAAOHs/Llj_D2--Qr8/IMG_6856-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
And for good measure the countryside around here is shit as well, all burned out and looking terrible. Much the same all over the top end so no more top end for us for a while. We’ll stick to deserts. You can’t burn deserts.<br />
With this frame of mind I wasn’t about to stay in any Big4 crapsite so we turned off the highway at Hayes Creek to an historic mining pub (Grove Hill Hotel) and are camped out the back for $Big4/3. Very outback as it happens with country style showers and loos in tin sheds.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6857-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FRg_yg0H_bk/VBqHa7jQZKI/AAAAAAAAOFs/_3QZqz4PzWg/IMG_6857-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
And our wine stocks from Adelaide have finally run out after 6 weeks. I knew I should have filled another jerry can.<br />
Tomorrow we’ll trundle down an historic mining area through the Bonnie Ranges to Pine Creek and thence to Edith Falls to camp.<br />
<strong>4 Sept,</strong> my grandma would have been 132 today.<br />
And down we trundled on a very smooth gravel road to Pine Creek and since we made such good time we carried on trundling to Edith Falls for lunch.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6859-6860-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="276" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QmWblK57WZY/VBqETMQzvxI/AAAAAAAAN7U/1VdJ4r7YnOo/IMG_6859-6860-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
It’s quite a few years since we’ve been here and it’s quite nice so for $18 we are camping here for a swim or 2 in the pool. The falls have very little water flowing since we are getting towards the end of the dry season and a huge gravelly sandbar has emerged from the depths, swept up by wet season storms:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6862-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Uak931m1VfE/VBqIA10wLKI/AAAAAAAAOH0/0HxEj8eU3hE/IMG_6862-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The water was cool and dark and you can imagine all sorts of creatures from the deep rising up to do unspeakable things to your appendages:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6875-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-S_16rnhrqpo/VBqH1LFV4TI/AAAAAAAAOHU/W01Fe9fm-rE/IMG_6875-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
As it happens after my swim I was leaning on a bridge, as you do, looking at the Edith Creek:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6864-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q0IY_Wh-ecM/VBqIjrnZYzI/AAAAAAAAOJk/N9K6w40Kkfk/IMG_6864-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
When something caught my eye:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6865-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8oxpBosS_e8/VBqF3KuT91I/AAAAAAAAOAs/i0ieCsj2mz8/IMG_6865-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
A crocodile trap had been subtly set up the creek. It’s either very encouraging or very worrying that they have to set up such things. At least it was empty, and that’s a good thing, I suppose.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6873-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m9gLn7jYA2A/VBqJVJzyPwI/AAAAAAAAOL0/G53Q06NGBr8/IMG_6873-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
There was a report in yesterday’s paper of a man being bitten by a fresh water croc only last month in Wangi Falls in Litchfield NP, where we were a few days ago. They had to close the swimming area while rangers caught and removed the offending creature. Last year they found a saltie in there too...<br />
<strong>5 Sept</strong><br />
A cool night but there were a couple of small kangaroos with joeys feeding in the campground early this morning.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6878_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JgVNGVU6Ec0/VBqGj0JzmhI/AAAAAAAAOC8/14DerqM-HpE/IMG_6878_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6880_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0wrgNpDqrSI/VBqEbk-YJuI/AAAAAAAAN7s/6zRUmiFPt3k/IMG_6880_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6881_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wGZCb50xkhw/VBqIFBoQm-I/AAAAAAAAOH8/ryQbyvFyRIc/IMG_6881_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
By 8 am the sun and the flies had both risen as we ate breakfast outside, rather quickly actually.<br />
By 10.30 it was hot and we reached Katherine and sought out the laundromat. While the washing was well, washing, we went to refill a gas bottle. While the washing was drying we had lunch and when it was all folded and put away we headed for the supermarket for a week’s supplies and 220l of fuel.<br />
Things I hate about Katherine (and many other places which do the same thing):<br />
a) Having to pay to go to the loo in the shopping centre ($1).<br />
b) Having to pay for a shopping trolley ($1 or $2 although you do get it back upon return of the trolley, but it’s still a drag).<br />
c) Having to queue for 10 minutes to pay for groceries, when there are lots of empty checkouts. And the trashy magazines on the stands just make the time go even slower.<br />
c) Having to pay for water at the visitors centre ($2 for 5 minutes on the hosepipe, easily 100 litres). Although we could have got it for free at the servo but it’s not so convenient.<br />
[Interestingly, I spelled “ALthough” with a capital “AL” and the spell checker offered “Although” as an alternative obviously, but also “donut”. Why?]<br />
Heading off down the highway we realised that we had missed out the bottle shop so our 1 can of beer and 2 cans of cider will have to last several days. Still, I did put a bottle of sherry in the fridge since sherry at 40º doesn’t have the same effect somehow. Might have to do the same with the port although we don’t seem to have much of that left now. We still have 1/2 a bottle of Serge’s red wine left which is also in the fridge. Is there a trend emerging here?<br />
d) Having to wait until the bottle shops open in the afternoon and then only getting 1 or 2 litre casks at 5 litre cask prices, which we forgot anyway.<br />
Camped tonight at the Leach Lagoon Rest Area, 50km SE of Katherine. However there is no sign of a lagoon here, which is <em>tanto montare</em> to misleading advertising.<br />
<strong>6 Sept</strong><br />
One of our favourite swimming spots in all the world is Bitter Springs creek in Elsey National Park just 50km down from our campsite.<br />
The water there is incredibly deep, clear and warm (33º all the year round) and it’s in a natural tropical wetlands area of pandanus and palm trees. Steps have been added to reduce erosion of the creek banks. Because the water is high in minerals and low in oxygen very few creature live in it making swimming a real pleasure, and it’s free.<br />
Me lazing around in the warm water:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6889-6895-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rAQpJRDMB6c/VBqEZIxS8zI/AAAAAAAAN7k/Z83SdOXAAwU/IMG_6889-6895-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="602" /><br />
You can swim/drift about 100m along the creek through a primordial swamp to a bridge and exit point. Janet found it too warm for a long swim.<br />
The palms here are the kind that dinosaurs fed on, in fact you can still see their bite marks on the leaves.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-07at8.00.46pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="426" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CcuOB0wySoI/VBqHBfufD5I/AAAAAAAAOEU/lQGCGhYFbDA/ScreenShot2014-09-07at8.00.46pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
After lunch we checked our emails at Mataranka and turned east on the Roper Highway heading for the Limmen NP about 200km away near coast of the Gulf of Carpentaria.<br />
The road is a single lane piece of bitumen which I find more annoying than all gravel roads as you are continually slowing down and putting 2 wheels in the dirt to pass other vehicles.<br />
Anyway, 70km down is a nice rest area (Mt Price) with a large mountain of rock in the centre that you can hide behind and be protected from other campers (there were none) and traffic noise (of which there was none all night).<br />
What there was however, was a pair of donkeys who put up a terrible racket for about 10 minutes while we were eating dinner outside in the dark and scared us sh*tless. <br />
<strong>7 Sept,</strong> my LXIX birthday<br />
This time last year we were at an Oka gathering in Harrismith, SE of Perth, and the weather was cold and wet. Today we had our hottest day on this trip so far, the external thermometer read 40.1º but it felt hotter than that in the Oka. Fortunately the a/c is working fairly well and there are several lily lagoons along the road which make things feel cooler even if they’re not.<br />
We stopped off for a look at Roper Bar, a man-made concrete causeway across the Roper River. Nice and calm now but impassable in the wet season.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6932-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rAHGb64exAM/VBqEI5wyfXI/AAAAAAAAN60/jynCVpTjxkU/IMG_6932-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
A family of Aboriginals were having a fun day out in the water which is safe to swim in around the causeway.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-07at8.39.07pm-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="398" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fclG_KEDajI/VBqEoyGAc_I/AAAAAAAAN8c/Vt8ats43z1U/ScreenShot2014-09-07at8.39.07pm-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
We stopped at a lagoon we had camped near before for lunch and to check our emails.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6945-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-eob2uelQTpc/VBqG6l79yyI/AAAAAAAAOD8/8d24BMXAiKk/IMG_6945-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
This area is not noted for it’s mobile coverage but just near here, on the other bank of the Roper River is the Aboriginal community of Ngukurr and we piggy backed on to their Telstra network.<br />
I had the usual gaggle of birthday emails from all the websites I subscribe to plus one from Charles and Fred in the UK and a message from Scott who is in Rome and just as we were leaving a call from Alan. Soon after we were out of range again so apologies to those who might have sent messages but we’ll collect them when we are next in phone range, probably Tennant Creek in a few days time.<br />
We passed by a number of brand new campgrounds in the NP, none of which had any campers in and made for St Vidgeons, the ruins of a former Lomarieum (don’t know what that is but it sounds serious if it has to be as isolated as this). The usual Aussie disregard for authority was evident:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6955-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="640" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NSWRUgVEfyo/VBqHcTpnXiI/AAAAAAAAOF0/7rIisssL2FE/IMG_6955-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="501" /><br />
The main attraction here however is the nearby huge lily filled lagoon with plenty of camping opportunities (but no swimming due to croc risk), so since it was so hot today and there’s a nice cool breeze blowing here, we are camped alongside it.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6956-6959-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="140" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wdYpKmsV4HY/VBqEDjmMaXI/AAAAAAAAN6k/biGPbU1xpbA/IMG_6956-6959-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
Water lily leaves with turned up edges:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7005-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rn_lBuwhodk/VBqExvzazYI/AAAAAAAAN88/FKlJtwdfc9U/IMG_7005-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Tall water lilies on the far side:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7008-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="382" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h-I0o355YVA/VBqItyQlmEI/AAAAAAAAOKM/ut-wkbqygy0/IMG_7008-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
A duck in cunning disguise:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7015-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="478" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JQJmCNZcuRE/VBqGZ_baBVI/AAAAAAAAOCc/CiIOz9g83lY/IMG_7015-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Relaxing in the cool breeze on a very hot 40º day:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6971-6973-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="405" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4mJSBRHmlsA/VBqEiMqMXSI/AAAAAAAAN8E/jlsTKmW6C1Y/IMG_6971-6973-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
We took memorial photos of the birthday drinks, dinner (tuna salad) and dessert, just as the sun was setting:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6974-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QBruEc1leQg/VBqIgIfQ8sI/AAAAAAAAOJU/XIJevS2K3_Y/IMG_6974-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Dessert consisted of strawberries and yoghurt for Janet, and strawberries, custard and slices of Mars Bar (because it’s my birthday and they were my pressie) for me.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6975-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LsCetHUYYNw/VBqFcKEbOwI/AAAAAAAAN_U/VPW5VKN1VSM/IMG_6975-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The sunset over the lagoon was pretty special too.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6983-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LsFvgUVhEyU/VBqGmXZOXEI/AAAAAAAAODE/sxtDPvmzufI/IMG_6983-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<strong>8 Sept</strong><br />
Today is Charles LXX birthday, <br />
Happy birthday Charles, we celebrated your anniversary with an ice cold glass of sherry under a full moon on a warm evening in the Southern Lost City in Limmen National Park.<br />
We left St Vidgeons still ignorant of the meaning of “Lomarieum” (the informative plaques had all been burnt out), and motored down the worsening track to the Towns River. There is an excellent campsite there and the river always looks beautiful and inviting…<br />
<img alt="IMG_7021-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tJ6pp4lgHWA/VBqImAR4urI/AAAAAAAAOJs/arkY0Ig_y18/IMG_7021-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7018-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Go_KhhTth3s/VBqIH3gF4EI/AAAAAAAAOIE/XriutvoWDHQ/IMG_7018-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7026-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-r7Bxqiud-5E/VBqG-eZxnaI/AAAAAAAAOEM/N6QE3ZAlxeA/IMG_7026-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
From there to the Cox River Crossing the corrugations got worse so we stopped for lunch just past the crumbling causeway and 3 guys (1 English from Guildford and 2 Germans) in a petrol Pajero with no A/C pulled up and asked if they were still on the Savannah Way. Well there’s only one road in the area so we are all on it.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-12at6.21.08pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="463" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QKpK3TY1gbs/VBqHf9Ap2TI/AAAAAAAAOGA/46LanPjKCuc/ScreenShot2014-09-12at6.21.08pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
They were heading for Cairns but only had a flimsy paper map and were amazed at our moving map system. We had a chat for while about the availability of LPG in Borroloola and it seemed to us they were ill prepared for such a trip, one of the roughest tracks across the top of Australia, we’ve done it several times. Still, they were young and nothing much worried them.<br />
The Cox River where they were going to do some fishing.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7044-7046-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="283" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7zf2Y36V4Yc/VBqJBEOg7VI/AAAAAAAAOLE/ym0auxuDqqE/IMG_7044-7046-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
On the way further south, we came across these confusing signs:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7042-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="478" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BvhMKOWjfmI/VBqF5DOjm-I/AAAAAAAAOA0/kshQ12wxWf4/IMG_7042-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
It turns out we were crossing a mining company haul road from/to an iron ore mine. But this is in the middle of a National Park! What is happening in the NT? This is not the first time we’ve come across this on this trip (there are new mine sites all along the Roper Highway and there has been a uranium mine in Kakadu National Park for many years) and they seem to be putting economics ahead of any environmental considerations. <br />
<img alt="IMG_7043-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTBzgPyi740I2431hCEazKcth7ED254VuA04Eudw4-kIBqdfj2aAlMiwl1MHRTZ2c_eO5-Z33jSFIqoFLUxeCxkcqDcq-IFrHcbuZrRuVQuEYIHVNljGt1rTenPawNQ-m0pRlx521fcc6p/" width="640" /><br />
We called in at Butterfly Springs where we have swum before (the only place where it’s safe to do so) but this year the pool is almost dried up and the waterfall has long since stopped flowing.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7049-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oN_O3s3xsM8/VBqIrvY9vDI/AAAAAAAAOKE/f-jaUTUp9yQ/IMG_7049-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
There was a water monitor clinging to the side of the rock sunning himself:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7052-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eOeYnMUIE-M/VBqGftCs7FI/AAAAAAAAOCw/gRuIReeK6ag/IMG_7052-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
We are camped tonight at the Southern Lost City, an amazing place of crazy leaning rock formations which we’ll have a look around early tomorrow morning before it gets too hot.<br />
<strong>9 Sept</strong><br />
We did our morning walk and most of the area had been burnt out. However that was a bit different and allowed a better view of the rock formations.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7086-7088-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="212" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lUfhJFY_v5Y/VBqF8pFUqrI/AAAAAAAAOA8/51wnz-F-PAM/IMG_7086-7088-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7063-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1-iiVi5gywo/VBqHkRWikOI/AAAAAAAAOGU/zQuAIOikXsw/IMG_7063-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7079-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_HVE5qOOEp_GPLkndgjY3omGXN_DdUHlYIx9kAMJdbaUHkOC0lSmwIYuQbUJ3R6_aGF8Mzr60sc-Da_UCSk-FzlTq0p4w3Y3byLMVn-leRlXan18F1P6eWpLVyonej8Twx5D76Y4WEFyD/" width="480" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7072-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-05JLOR3Ox4M/VBqELgeMr5I/AAAAAAAAN68/51hbOX7hR6U/IMG_7072-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
After our 7am walk, the clouds were burned away by the sun and it started getting very hot so a shower was called for. The wire in the large antenna got very tangled up as I was lowering it and I couldn’t get it apart in the hot morning sun so I left it until later to sort out.<br />
Then the A/C stopped working on the way down the track so we stopped to fix it at Batten Creek. The compressor fuse blew and a few minutes after I replaced it the replacement also blew.<br />
I confirmed that the compressor was working OK and found that one of the connections on the pressure switch on the front condenser was causing the problem (something on that other wire was dragging the voltage down from 12 to 9 so it’s a heavy current partial short circuit which slowly blows the 30A fuse) but not the additional fan I had fitted, so I replaced the cable from the switch to the compressor and all was OK again, I thought, so we had lunch.<br />
The original evaporator fans wasn’t working on that circuit so I assumed that might have been the problem but possibly not. A few minutes later the rear A/C didn’t seem to be working indicating that the solenoid allowing cooling fluid to the rear evaporator wasn’t functioning and then the rear fans stopped working as well presumably a fuse problem too, but maybe a thermal cutout issue since it was OK the next morning. <br />
Rather than buggerise around any more we carried on using the front A/C only and one condenser fan, which was just up to the job, and I’ll investigate further tomorrow in the cool of the morning.<br />
The Nathan River Road through the Limmen NP got gradually and very frustratingly rough and corrugated as we drove south and we could barely manage 30kph. And there were quite a few creek crossings and causeways to negotiate.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-10at7.22.38am-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="446" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KLapIRc-6DQ/VBqGMGM2lwI/AAAAAAAAOBs/0KaEpvMxUx4/ScreenShot2014-09-10at7.22.38am-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
When we got to what I thought was the Carpentaria Highway and a bitumen road, I was sadly 50km out of place and it took another hour to reach the relative comfort of the Cape Crawford Road and Tablelands Highway.<br />
These are sealed roads but only a single lane and very undulating to the point of seasickness. Eventually after 2 hours of lonely driving though reasonably attractive cattle country and “<em>hill covered trees</em>”*, we reached a rest area only to find several other caravans already here, but here we will stay after a long gruelling day in the saddle. This road, although sealed, is very rough and narrow and not really suited to caravans. It’s also nearly 400km between fuel stops.<br />
* Janet didn’t see anything wrong with this statement.<br />
There was a nice looking big windmill along side the rest area with a water tank.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7092-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zhJbaJu-86s/VBqHDUdxM6I/AAAAAAAAOEc/0zKV6Nc0GbI/IMG_7092-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
We sat outside but the cicadas were absolutely deafening, like severe tinnitus turned up 100dB.<br />
<strong>10 Sept</strong><br />
The “nice looking” windmill woke us up several times in the night with it’s screeching and rattling as the breeze varied from nothing to light.<br />
Fairly uneventful today if you exclude the indicators which stopped working. That turned out to be a fuse with dirty connections which I refitted yesterday. A quick clean up and all OK again.<br />
There was the usual Aussie humour(?) along the way…<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-10at11.54.34am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="567" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3OrzWZ8I0WA/VBqHmLVRuLI/AAAAAAAAOGk/mIEkcwEVPc0/ScreenShot2014-09-10at11.54.34am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
And a couple of reminders of just how big this country is:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7093-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JGqfTOmY0Pk/VBqF_Aiq7OI/AAAAAAAAOBE/VQxn4cDyKhw/IMG_7093-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-10at11.51.59am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="430" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7MTer6rsoeg/VBqFXjiJCVI/AAAAAAAAN_E/DXLUQmgSkGc/ScreenShot2014-09-10at11.51.59am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
Just endless vistas of dry Mitchell Grass from horizon to horizon.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-11at6.45.48am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="322" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G27dLD6431s/VBqE7ZvX5BI/AAAAAAAAN9k/_dB9_vD9sBM/ScreenShot2014-09-11at6.45.48am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
The front A/C worked pretty well during the morning session but struggled in the 36º heat this afternoon. Tomorrow I’ll check if the rear solenoid is the faulty item and if not, I’ll rig up a connection from the compressor so we can use both systems again.<br />
325km today over the single lane, undulating Tablelands Highway south to the Barkly Highway and a fairly crummy but just adequate rest area about 150km east of Tennant Creek.<br />
<strong>11 Sept</strong>, anniversary of 9/11.<br />
This morning I tested the rear a/c solenoid and it appears to be OK so I wired it in to the compressor circuit and both front and rear a/c systems now seem to be working, but I am keenly anticipating disappointment. The solenoid should actually be connected to the rear fan switch so it only comes on when the rear fans are on but that will have to wait until I can find the right wire.<br />
The remaining 150km 0f the Barkly Highway were fairly forgettable but we were quite surprised by Tennant Creek. It’s a mostly Aboriginal town but unlike many similar towns, the locals were more friendly and approachable and many of them are working in supermarkets or similar.<br />
Grog limitations are still annoying though, only low/mid strength beer before 3pm and no cask wine before 4pm, and nothing after 6pm. Anyway we got some beer and cider which will do us until we get to Alice.<br />
We checked our emails and called Mark, all is well in Adelaide. We called Troy who is house sitting for us and arranged our homecoming on 20 Sept. We also had a message from Scott and Tash who are in Rome. They just went to St Peter’s Basilica and the Colosseum tomorrow and are loving their European vacation.<br />
After refuelling and refooding at a very expensive (except for veggies surprisingly) IGA in Tennant Creek we drove down the very quiet Stuart Highway to a small track we found several years ago about 70km south of Tennant Creek, and are camping about 1k off the highway.<br />
Very hot again today, 36º but the A/C is working fine, but I sense the temperature trend will now be downwards.<br />
<strong>12 Sept</strong><br />
The drive today took us past the Devils Marbles, always a good place to stop and frolic amongst huge stone boulders.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7094-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-bTXyToZBID8/VBqHK2yneeI/AAAAAAAAOE0/iURuOraSR14/IMG_7094-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7096-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hG-zqcOHibw/VBqJHWq_c_I/AAAAAAAAOLU/CV9r7AKh1Aw/IMG_7096-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7099-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Sse0y6NE6u8/VBqFZlZLOxI/AAAAAAAAN_M/X5pduKgiF78/IMG_7099-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
It also took us through Barrow Creek, the centre of the sad Peter Falconio murder and Joanne Lees assault some years ago (2001 actually).<br />
<strong>But has someone been reading my blog??</strong><br />
A couple of years ago I reported in these very pages that although Barrow Creek had a Telegraph Station as early as 1872 it didn’t have a mobile service in 2010. Well today, in 2014, I am able to report that Barrow Creek now has a new shiny phone tower and megawatts of solar power:<br />
The 1872 Telegraph Station and its contemporary high tech wiring system:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7119-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I8p59INhuw8/VBqEN46uMFI/AAAAAAAAN7E/nmd_5Wu5780/IMG_7119-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The 2014 mobile phone tower and solar farm:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7123-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uYEUKEvE60s/VBqHsi0QuRI/AAAAAAAAOG8/AoOP5BGRbYU/IMG_7123-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="478" /><br />
On the section of the Stuart Highway south of Barrow Creek, the speed limit has been de-restricted, in fact removed all together, it’s an “<em>open speed zone</em>”.<br />
So this road could be one of the very few places in the world where you can legally travel at 500kph, (or more if you had the technology) and it’s not an <em>autobahn</em> or an <em>autostrada</em> or a freeway <em></em>in Dubai, it’s just the main 2 lane connecting highway between north and south Australia. This section is around 40km, dead straight.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7126-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_DpFK-Nva7U/VBqIaGrWLVI/AAAAAAAAOI8/WRHzrTMOloI/IMG_7126-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-13at8.59.15am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="451" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FFnhO-WALcA/VBqIhNlTvnI/AAAAAAAAOJc/2UKjFUQNw58/ScreenShot2014-09-13at8.59.15am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-13at9.02.46am_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="353" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7r2RVPFhDw0/VBqFQOTCrsI/AAAAAAAAN-k/miBDk2FU2Mk/ScreenShot2014-09-13at9.02.46am_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
But as you accelerate though the 200kph point you are required to read this informative sign. We couldn’t even read it at 70kph.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-13at8.57.50am_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="457" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Og4ahwbC58o/VBqITuTN8nI/AAAAAAAAOIk/xJe9NQyMR4U/ScreenShot2014-09-13at8.57.50am_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
Althoiugh, it does have several 30 or 40km long dead straight sections, it’s not all straight, and because of the speed potential, bends are supplied with copious arrows. The average is around 12 per bend, but this long slow bend has 33 double sided arrows to guide speeding motorists around the corner:<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-13at9.03.12am_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="357" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PtL_l3Yca3M/VBqEvXKtO9I/AAAAAAAAN80/GajqKf32MsI/ScreenShot2014-09-13at9.03.12am_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
And continuing with the motoring theme, another notable thing of note that happened today was that our odometer passed the 700,000km point, of which we’ve done around 170,000 of them on our travels over the past 10 years. We’ve now lived in our Oka for nearly 3 years total out of the past 10, that’s over 1000 campsites on tracks which have criss-crossed the country.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7114-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0PcBgQK0jnc/VBqGejMkc6I/AAAAAAAAOCs/m7E1eDNyxxE/IMG_7114-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Mind you the reading is a bit academic since I manually reset the readout to a random value when we had the odometer replaced in 2004 after we bought the Oka and it wasn’t working . The actual reading could be +/_100,000km from the current reading, and even that 100,000km estimate could be wrong too…<br />
We are camped tonight at Prowse Gap rest area, a reasonably OK rest stop about 150km north of the Alice, and the temperature is dropping as the number of flies increases.<br />
<strong>13 Sept</strong><br />
I made a pot of tea this morning as is usual, and I’m amazed how well I can consistently and accurately underestimate how much water is needed in the kettle. You’d think after all this time I would know and adjust my tap control process accordingly.<br />
From our commendably average Prowse Gap campsite the drive into Alice was a lot more interesting than the previous 1000km. Some wild flowers were in bloom but not as many as previous years and the landscape was more hilly and tinged with green.<br />
It was also noticeably cooler as befitting our no longer tropical latitude. We passed though the magic Tropic of Capricorn with barely a murmur.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7130_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="478" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oijfMXBLfBk/VBqHMqdNK_I/AAAAAAAAOE8/NttmGc0DQv8/IMG_7130_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7132_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vIZnP9x2lfQ/VBqFft8ERiI/AAAAAAAAN_k/7COXcgtAsbw/IMG_7132_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
After refooding, regassing, refueling and rewatering, we set off on the Ross Highway to Trephina Gorge for a day in a very nice area about 70km east of Alice in the East McDonnell Ranges..<br />
The setting sun burnt up the rock face above Trephina Creek.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7133_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I5IPhzWHSt4/VBqEkTF07XI/AAAAAAAAN8M/N9fQcBtpucw/IMG_7133_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<strong>14 Sept</strong><br />
And the sunrise also lit up the bluff:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7135-7136-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="227" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MDiEqz_U3nk/VBqHyL51ftI/AAAAAAAAOHM/xK_y5UlGv40/IMG_7135-7136-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
As proposed we did the 3km cliff-top walk today and it was quite a view.<br />
We are now almost exactly in the geographic centre of the Australian Continent and the sky hasn’t been this blue for a long time. It does’t have the impurities and water vapour in it that you get in tropical skies, just pure, unadulterated UV rays.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7163-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1AHKbgvS_hE/VBqH36nbgbI/AAAAAAAAOHc/CpsNEHzhTik/IMG_7163-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The gorge from the cliff-top walk.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7149-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-N9GPii5SS_c/VBqFkQG2VbI/AAAAAAAAN_0/Rbke4n6WFJA/IMG_7149-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7141-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dcOOe934KVA/VBqGzaFgJ8I/AAAAAAAAODs/tsqf0Ofo_aA/IMG_7141-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
After our hot walk we had a cooling shower and decided to stay here for the rest of the day since it was so peaceful and pleasant.<br />
As we were preparing tea, a dingo trotted along the creek bed to an old campfire area, picked up something, probably a chop bone, wandered back to a patch of grass and sat down to chomp it. She did this a couple of times and even circled us as we were eating our tea outside.<br />
She obviously knows where food is to be found, but feeding them is not encouraged or permitted as they can become demanding and aggressive, even though she did remind us too much of Bella.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7165_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU1YD15hhK0RvrDk0D6JE3eF2XnlQkVcy-YZct3D72v7MrcRfC02h5cDd_LUvEKd2Xo_wLfNdSTLCvv4XUEh2yWjgcLxXIrHE3T8nzwJnQtYgSaE7jnbc_WL7f6T4Z5CJxbmYAkd2ANoPQ/" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7168_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPMl5i-3QnSBIExOXh_pNUWvZQeTE_R_4cdPUGv30kEdHjpWp8Nf28w5keXCT4dm85uAAhJ7vMc8N7wMCB_8UcukXCT8UwoIQpDlwZ-rHcjCxU9TaxJ8Y1J_FpahdiCo9p7XhFsMTE2Wi-/" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7170_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD7h1jAWVY7IODkEa5RCju9O4w1Oq1IzcpQkbst61DxmdWdOVQJGOje3RCQaTX8R0z7vRPVD_Nt_RoOvKX1_D29pMpYMjgUgw36xZ6xmqc4gIy5Bjadp8IzoBRbav9Q_q5yxmYwghRkVU-/" width="640" /><br />
They may have the manner of a domestic dog but dingos are wild animals, descended from wolves, who have a well established position in the natural world as Australia’s dominant land predator. This status quo should not be disrupted since without them many introduced pests, particularly rabbits, would not be effectively controlled.<br />
So it’s sad to see so many 1080 warning signs all over the country indicating the planned and systematic destruction of an Australian native species using strychnine, a particularly nasty poison.<br />
Even worse is to see a tree adorned by the carcasses of dead dingos in trophy arrangement, which we’ve seen a few times. Imagine the outcry if you saw a tree full of the corpses of dead koalas?<br />
The 5000km long dingo proof fence which runs from the Queensland coast to the Great Australian Bight in South Australia is a much more responsible approach at problem management in sheep country. Unfortunately 1080 poison is cheaper.<br />
<strong>15 Sept</strong><br />
Leaving Trephina Gorge we went to see a nearby 300 year old Ghost Gum which is heritage listed. Ghost gums are common in the red centre, quite often on the side of red rocky cliffs.<br />
This one is growing on a flat plain and is quite spectacular, they don’t normally grow this large.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7174-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CXM5grwWw7g/VBqHUPbNZVI/AAAAAAAAOFU/tqoGsFKNw1E/IMG_7174-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7178-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-S4-dHGDhLyA/VBqJeXYSCJI/AAAAAAAAOMM/t21P6DS3a_g/IMG_7178-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7176-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0pOZaUXbHtc/VBqIwNxAkJI/AAAAAAAAOKU/UQsHsHdR8DU/IMG_7176-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
On the way back, we called in to Corroborree Rock, an Aboriginal sacred site:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7180-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ykLmTv5rhNg/VBqJKQaeheI/AAAAAAAAOLc/1srAzuA9K1c/IMG_7180-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7184-7185-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="303" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pCP7oYy6LVc/VBqGpQsPl3I/AAAAAAAAODM/u_z95NV21h4/IMG_7184-7185-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7189-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="478" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SI2Y3ahNmc4/VBqI9olxznI/AAAAAAAAOK8/p1POZ-BoCJg/IMG_7189-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The surrounding hills are dotted with ghost gums as if they’d been planted.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7187-7188-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="465" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sYad1SkFXAc/VBqHH9nXl-I/AAAAAAAAOEs/6aZ_s1V2-pI/IMG_7187-7188-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
Then it was back into the Alice, if she’ll excuse the expression, for more supplies and fuel, after which we bade her farewell and set off south, but not too far, about 100km, to Rainbow Valley.<br />
This is an ancient but spectacular set of rock formations which must be one of Australia’s best kept secrets. It’s protected by quite a tough 22km corrugated 4WD track in, but there are also some good walks to do and a campsite to boot, if only the flies weren’t so friendly.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7197-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEighwlC4RU6r3OOE6DwtnCgwKYoZoHyXreZds_jD7NVvOC6g-yeau0zfcn61AnVWrvovy_mEu2T-WySl0__w2SI92u2hCVYObpoYkZxsOfajwDXn9b18GHgsR3VWQa57gVb3AJ5WXnJxZia/" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7205-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yF8GiJALdjA/VBqEdrw9OmI/AAAAAAAAN70/zpAHFXvAVhw/IMG_7205-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7215-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sHyB6cy7Sig/VBqGsFESYRI/AAAAAAAAODU/ZWn0J0gLEew/IMG_7215-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Along the boardwalk we startled a large lizard soaking up the warm sun.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7212_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XuB0p73Wrr0/VBqFtBJPzdI/AAAAAAAAOAM/F_Yr8eRAPXU/IMG_7212_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The track to Rainbow Valley passes though a large grove of Desert Oaks and a carpet of wild flowers, but not as colourful or prolific as previous wetter years.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7193-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5FV5gmuMPkU/VBqGB6r56XI/AAAAAAAAOBM/YuRK95KA4DU/IMG_7193-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7196-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-26_hIBJplUM/VBqIdjBgfkI/AAAAAAAAOJM/F7DynhrmGQ8/IMG_7196-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<strong>16 Sept</strong><br />
Time now to start heading south seriously if we are to be home on Saturday. The SA border at Kulgera is the first step.<br />
We stopped at Erldunda to check emails but there were none of note. Quite a bit of traffic here but most was turning west towards Uluru.<br />
Passing the first and last pub in the NT at Kulgera and into SA, we met more quarantine signs than “Welcome to South Australia” signs, but at least we got a bit of warning on this one.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-16at5.25.09pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="475" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WYtsB439__4/VBqIxOZqeJI/AAAAAAAAOKY/aGeYMnAHUPI/ScreenShot2014-09-16at5.25.09pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
The traffic was almost non-existent for 80 odd km and the country appeared to be completely <em>terra nullis, </em>so much so that I contemplated emulating a certain Lt Cook and claiming this land a new country, called <em>SOD OFF</em> (South of Darwin On the Finke Floodplain), or maybe <em>SOD ALL</em> (South of Darwin All Lost and Lonely). For a brief moment I did consider <em>Foetid Utopian Colonial Kingdom</em> but I feared the spelling might prove too difficult for some citizens who might resort too easily to the abbreviated form.<br />
We saw <em>no caravans</em> at all and only one motorhome this afternoon. Did they know something and were staying up north in the warm?<br />
We passed 2 empty rest areas whereas normally at 3pm they’d be chockers with caravans vying for the best of the worst locations.<br />
After 320km today we have stopped at the Agnes River rest area where there was one camper trailer and a big bus towing a small 4WD, and camped near the nonexistent river amongst the maximum number of flies. Actually all rivers and creeks in northern Australia are real rivers, they are just upside down, dusty dry on the surface but deep down they are still moist, which is from where the river red gums extract their water through the dry seasons.<br />
<strong>17 Sept</strong><br />
411km today, basically down the very lonely Stuart Highway through Coober Pedy and into the arid treeless plains of mid South Australia.<br />
Coober Pedy was the same flat dusty terrain covered by neat mountains of white spoil from the opal diggings.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7248-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="216" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0Lz8rvlgCM0/VBqINc3yorI/AAAAAAAAOIU/cp4U6MsaZPs/IMG_7248-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7244-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="318" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wGaxYkr-iW8/VBqFCrG94aI/AAAAAAAAN90/rPIi7JMADqc/IMG_7244-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
We topped up our water tank from their very professional 20c per 30 litre slot meter public water pump (which is much better than their previous hose hanging on a wire fence model) and then carried on since we’ve seen dusty outback towns before.<br />
Leaving Coober Pedy, not a single “<em>Thank You for visiting Coober Pedy</em>” sign to be seen, every sign was facing the other way.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-17at5.45.08pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="330" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_-oGFNetnVQ/VBqIbEopjOI/AAAAAAAAOJE/ktHqPAwuYQQ/ScreenShot2014-09-17at5.45.08pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
We camped last night at the “Major” Ingomar rest area, although quite why it’s so defined is a mystery. It has no toilets so the desperate have littered the rear of the site with paper products, it’s very exposed on the top of a bluff and isn’t very scenic anyway. No matter we (I) were knackered after 411km so it was fine for us, and we were the only occupants.<br />
<strong>18 Sept</strong><br />
Up with the larks or what ever to carry on down the Stuart Highway first to Glendambo (Population: People - 3, Sheep - 22,500, Flies - 2,000,000) for lunch and to check our emails, and then on to Lake Hart.<br />
This is a very pretty salt lake where there’s a 4WD a track we discovered several years ago from the new to the old highways and where camping is quite secluded.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7257-7260_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="203" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bBSvPYOnEtc/VBti0XI-aNI/AAAAAAAAONk/2lVW1y49ylE/IMG_7257-7260_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
The so called poached egg flower (Myriocephalus stuartii) which abound and all face the sun at the same time. They are paper daisies with everlasting (relatively) papery flowers.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7275-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9Fqa-MB9aek/VBtipeZCZVI/AAAAAAAAONM/b1XMhACUmwA/IMG_7275-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
We wandered down to the lake, and in the process crossed the Ghan/Indian Pacific rail line which skirts the lake edge. The lights were red and no trains came, so we walked along the track to tempt fate but fate wasn’t paying attention, fortunately. <br />
<img alt="IMG_7274-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="402" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-U_sve-fDngA/VBti29mpuzI/AAAAAAAAONs/KHrJxvXE54k/IMG_7274-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
There were emu and kangaroo prints in the salty edge of the lake.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7270-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-S_y9XxW-4w8/VBtivTJbGmI/AAAAAAAAONc/pohtSyoD4gU/IMG_7270-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7263-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MXesgmm_R9Q/VBtisFTQCUI/AAAAAAAAONU/A9AjNuhqbuU/IMG_7263-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
A stick and a moth frozen in ice and snow? No, captured in salt.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7266-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pjAyjR13hMM/VBtifxwR0JI/AAAAAAAAOM0/7gtq_J_CS7k/IMG_7266-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7267-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9LfN6665Va8/VBtijNNZ6MI/AAAAAAAAOM8/tgteCkSqq5M/IMG_7267-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
With a few clouds around, the sunset was quite spectacular. Yes, I know they are only bloody photons, but they are very colourful photons, nonetheless.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7285-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9_E9zcbllJQ/VBtimFcNWII/AAAAAAAAONE/EkKUhpnuhBY/IMG_7285-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7277-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8WEX46qknpc/VBti5jF_YSI/AAAAAAAAON0/LNxayLSnG6E/IMG_7277-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<strong>19 Sept</strong><br />
Our last day on the road, we should be home tomorrow morning.<br />
2 freight trains came past early this morning, from different directions. I wonder how that happens? There must be a nearby passing loop or railway roadhouse they can stop at.<br />
Unlike yesterday, today is a blazing blue sky day with a burning sun. Even a rusty exhaust system has a summery glow to it.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7298-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJwMzAK0yp-G5FcvmcV_IMcjRvO5cWP91nRhHaf60RKvCSTyp2Owqx2PuWiPgcSQyZvPUSFiPNSnQc39OYceizXOvRB31B2657Udp4TCKLolCpEQvE8HT2VJ9bcTWb-RyduW_GUVp-WnEg/" width="640" /><br />
And the lake was glistening in the morning sun.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7302-7318-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="131" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-IlIMN5R0sNU/VBudWgOms8I/AAAAAAAAOOQ/gqVDuuZnVyM/IMG_7302-7318-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
<strong>20 Sept</strong><br />
Camped last night in a small reserve at Clements Gap near Crystal Brook. It’s our normal secluded campsite, in a 10 sq km reserve of bushland in a huge arable landscape.<br />
We arrived home knackered just after mid-day and the sun was shining from a clear blue sky and the temperature was around 22º. Good for Adelaide at this time of year but a lot less than we had been experiencing.<br />
We wandered around in a bit of a daze, the garden looked pretty good really (it always does under a clear sunny sky) and not too many weeds.<br />
We did a bit of unloading, a lot of washing and gradually things became more familiar.<br />
Then we were back to normality once again after another good trip. 2 months, 9,000km and a major desert crossing.dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-46043195712342950612014-11-16T16:21:00.011+10:302018-01-09T08:26:06.157+10:30Broome across to Darwin<p><strong>14 Aug</strong></p><p>Broome, a day of contrasts.</p><p>Up early for the final boring 100km to Broome (after all the excitement of a desert crossing), where we attacked the Coles supermarket, the first we’d seen since Halls Creek and even that wasn’t all that flash.</p><p>We were also slowly getting used to being on our own again after 2 weeks in the company of 2 other Okas and 4 other travelling companions. You get used to seeing people in front or behind (or even to the side) knocking over trees and bouncing over spinifex clumps or chatting on the CB, and then suddenly it’s all quiet again but with a lot of busy highway traffic. We now have to used turn signals again and check in the rear view mirror for high speed road trains.</p><p>But before we reached Broome, knowing that finding accommodation can be a real pain there, we checked into the <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://www.broomesgateway.com/caravan-park">Broome’s Gateway</a></span>, an all non-powered, camping and caravan emporium about 20 mins east of Broome, for a couple of days. $27 a night off which we got a return visitor discount of 10% since we stayed here for 2 days a couple of years ago, they had us on their computer. It’s a nice bush location 20km from Broome with wide sandy tracks and sites, uncrowded and with plenty of water and space.</p><p>And then it happened, problème du jour #1. When we pulled up at the Gateway, I switched off the engine and there was an explosion of noise and water from under the kitchen sink in the rear. I’d fitted a relay which inhibits the water pumps while driving, so if a leak happens the pumps wouldn’t come on and empty the tanks all over the road without us knowing. Today they emptied the tanks all over the floor of the Oka instead. I quickly sussed out that the problem was a valve, which I’d fitted to connect the drinking water supply to the domestic supply in an emergency, had failed (and ironically creating an emergency), allowing both pumps to spill their guts out, so to speak.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iG9_CwXDPjw/WlPn-CXhPfI/AAAAAAAAT2I/HoEGMn_ZZsIAvFrMendMS9mquEnWI1pawCHMYCw/IMG_5998-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_5998-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p>A simple enough problem to solve, if you have a replacement valve or a couple of plugs to block up the pipes, but I had no spare valve easily to hand without dismantling something else and only one plug. I couldn’t locate anything else that would fit, I tried clamping bolts in the pipes, bending the pipes over, jamming in a stick whittled by Janet and even an AA battery (rechargeable). None of them stopped the water flow so I disabled both pumps and made the Mitre 10 store in Broome our first call, to buy up their entire stocks of plumbing components. A few minutes later and it was all fixed. </p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8LeCIA2o3Ks/WlPoKpDcD7I/AAAAAAAAT24/R9VvvFTXWRIJ2k1Y0Dr9HMwvP2rPF3b-ACHMYCw/IMG_6000-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6000-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Our Oka parked in the middle of Broome:</em></span></p><p>Only then could we attack the Coles supermarket. Coles was well stocked and not as expensive as it could have been, given the remote location. We held off buying meat and some other purchases to give us another fuel discount voucher for tomorrow. Fuel at $1.75/l was much cheaper than any other local town (mostly $1.98/l).</p><p>There was another aspect to shopping in Coles that I never thought I’d see outside of movies and comedy shows, a young lady with her skirt actually caught up in her knickers, a bit like this actually:</p><p style="text-align: center"><a href="http://www.kitschbitsch.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/MM793231.jpg"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cT9bii_VRH0/WlPofzCHk6I/AAAAAAAAT4A/TDxR16vlOqQ-umyvIMfRQWxDH1Wq-i6VQCHMYCw/skirt1-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="skirt1-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></a></p><p>Janet was all for telling her but I said why ruin a perfect day? Anyway she’d probably blurt out “my husband noticed... etc. etc.”.</p><p>Then we found problème du jour #2. While we were driving around Broome, I thought the steering felt a but lumpy, and when I checked, the front RHS tyre looked very soft, which was confirmed by an actual measurement of 25PSI. This was the tyre that went flat in the GSD which we plugged with 2 plugs on the track and it saw out the remainder of the trip OK. </p><p>So we pumped it up and wallowed down to Broome Port where we replaced the wheel on firm bitumen in the shade of a huge oil tank. The replacement tyre is much better, it runs smoother and is better balanced as well. The soft tyre was leaking around the plugs after several days of rugged desert travel so I inserted a 3rd plug and it seems to be holding, but it will only be an emergency spare, pending getting it professionally fixed. I was glad it had gone down here, not on the highway where it might have burst ahead of a very large road train…</p><p>After the rigours of replacing a wheel in the heat, we sauntered around the port area and up the still corrugated sandy track to Gantheaume Point for the usual sunset photos, then back to the campsite for steak and salad.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZS9M-K8WSebNQf5EFPUBWTljWUTa-Zx-avThMFahzOE73y45Tfu1W2DgvY_5sqollE7aM3-5-JBTZg-a1NbcnOi1gnpEm4lCmg42DUxBUfr90n3eP7DHuuLLykhyphenhyphengW56SJFK3dahmFe_J/" alt="IMG_6006-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>At the port we spied this strange vehicle. What could it be?</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-StmhzdJ-LQU/WlPnTEomRzI/AAAAAAAATzU/a0NhlFySm6wNsLzYqHtTMtxvSmkMS_OOgCHMYCw/IMG_6008-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6008-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>It turned out to be a Limo Trike which you can hire an $295 an hour for specialised cruises around Broome:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h6B5EJDxFGU/WlPnOFk5API/AAAAAAAATzA/1j8GH1stEL873-7Bq3zSCC6_cKZl34VBQCHMYCw/IMG_6016-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6016-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Me having a cool drink (not champagne) at Gantheaume Point:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2cycIsD2o64/WlPofRECt0I/AAAAAAAAT38/Uv--XZFrJgQ7tEyvvhBqMjRUmFfPVIlSQCHMYCw/IMG_6019-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6019-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>While waiting for the sun to set:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-09cckqK4so4/WlPnvD5BmiI/AAAAAAAAT1E/nmDqcRepRwoBi00FFznQQurvz58d1kfSgCHMYCw/IMG_6022-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6022-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>And it did:</em></span></p><p> </p><p> </p><p>Now just the leaking water tank to repair when we get somewhere soft and warm and not windy. It’s been blowing an easterly gale for several days now, mostly during the day, which makes working outside very frustrating, even if it is warm.</p><p>And just to complete the trilogy of water problems, I had to fix problème du jour #3. Our drinking water pump has slowed to a crawl so I bought and replaced the 0.5 micron filter element from the smallest Bunnings store I’ve ever seen, only about twice the size of my shed but surprisingly well stocked.</p><p><strong>15 Aug</strong></p><p>Today’s forecast temperature is 29, but it’s only about 14 at the moment and very chilly when you’re dressed for 29 and it’s very windy too. </p><p>Lunch spot at Roebuck Bay, Broome at high tide:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--tpBoSkcBV4/WlPn4vaLWFI/AAAAAAAAT1s/0wQvN1J6PsMzOMtaceqBtrVrqXyoX_yrgCHMYCw/IMG_6036-6038-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6036-6038-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>While having lunch at Roebuck Bay we spotted a few other interesting things.</p><p>A statue of a lady with concrete boobs, commemorating the contribution of women to the development of the pearling industry in the Broome area. Presumably the pearl shaped boobs contributed to this contribution in some way:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--uG2UYqFl44/WlPoY-MqVjI/AAAAAAAAT3o/O4av6h5HAfAEAlypgghTBYKFnycpo-EIACHMYCw/IMG_6026-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6026-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-__pUePUse18/WlPoqqT3wJI/AAAAAAAAT4s/Iab7T8lc78IZgO9aHX5J6mXV_uWISERcgCHMYCw/IMG_6047-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6047-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>And I was not alone in photographing these contributions;</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J97mRCM7SWk/WlPnUrx7eLI/AAAAAAAATzc/VqyMduGYFMkIgyFlr5uz_Xs8HSxiMufCACHMYCw/IMG_6043-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6043-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>And a sea eagle which had caught a bat which carelessly left it’s mangrove roost in the middle of the day:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E0ACVmqhOuk/WlPnn6fxuiI/AAAAAAAAT0o/aHVqdpqtsx0CXWsm0gmwQbCfogfQzaAGACHMYCw/IMG_6035-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6035-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>A rusty push lawnmower on the beach:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MVEEXe3tOcw/WlPoovdMzWI/AAAAAAAAT4k/4il8SRuED1c_r0aJfW2To26FNIKyJBkRgCHMYCw/IMG_6033-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6033-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Boabs overlooking the bay:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3aBPXvXPoxY/WlPn88TlvbI/AAAAAAAAT2A/cOyuhcnnZS0KzFK3j8P_QXwI6-c-gA_VgCHMYCw/IMG_6046-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6046-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xnCaFt_DhPk/WlPn2bNDRnI/AAAAAAAAT1k/Hwj2PJc6h3Qucq3Sz75AIMDt3d6ylI1cgCHMYCw/IMG_6059-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6059-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The Pioneer Cemetery at Broome’s Town Beach: </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EE3SLQriiQo/WlPozjD7III/AAAAAAAAT5Q/TRRwup-AiwoZ6KgpUOFrsT6e1aCb1oSyQCHMYCw/IMG_6064-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6064-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>It looks very much like a western Boot Hill:</em></span></p><p>It also commemorates the 70 people killed in Japanese bombing raids on flying boats laying at anchor in Roebuck Bay in March 1942. We were fortunate to visit the wrecks of the Catalinas on a hovercraft trip at very low tide in 2007. They were full of civilians being evacuated from Indonesia.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vkvC6-3GQuA/WlPo89Ug44I/AAAAAAAAT50/LHi_5whf0wYmqViJu7E38Ha3wppTxj2UwCHMYCw/IMG_6068-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6068-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NUX4DDUT-zQ/WlPnjGAmcnI/AAAAAAAAT0U/GK79ExZPjPIm_m--Ch3Bx4TgQzfGJHX7gCHMYCw/IMG_6061-6063-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6061-6063-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Roebuck Bay at high tide:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rJaAP7bObyQ/WlPnsD1on3I/AAAAAAAAT08/50lrbWp-N7EPFSMdUCszMuUcdJdD7nPMgCHMYCw/IMG_6112-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6112-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Our Oka parked under a bean tree in Broome:</em></span></p><p> </p><p> </p><p>Later in the afternoon we dawdled up to Cable Beach for the sunset, as one does.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiBh-r9yJ7RH1t0gEXBX99ok1C6QwwuvXvK6ZVg_XR3cTD6qgRaeLLVatXdDe20yFTbCGTw4MUTnrZe3yvhjFzQQwVAwXYsvoecF5ido_sIeGgxQ9uGh_jXKX8WcsDGao-awD2TsjLlwIw/" alt="IMG_6087-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>How to take a Cable Beach photo, iPad style:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rl0dn4sNu0o/WlPnZ3G_E3I/AAAAAAAATzs/otk7peo7aycgDq55W6FbGbqhqgFVgViEQCHMYCw/IMG_6089-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6089-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Waiting for sunset on Cable Beach:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRBbGnyPlx9yTbwsEdEfrEXekzPhooscDwOPYaeDOAtvmQZ4z50giY50vFAljdi7y6Wk-M3XwFQ3Zm_zPkrpYvRdCcKhx2YTas7BpnD3L7KwUmSWVCF1ILZXfKCjS96YdvrDHbylA_N6Z8/" alt="IMG_6079-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></em></span></p><p>And here it is, more bloody photons and wasted pixels, but for some reason everybody does it:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cENX-nn8nQU/WlPnUGqmMkI/AAAAAAAATzY/dNAHGahlIXgWTRhCXNRoArHtTjn3HufsQCHMYCw/IMG_6096-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6096-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p><strong>16 Aug</strong></p><p>Leaving Broome today and heading east, but first we went back into Broome for the Saturday Markets in the grounds of old Courthouse.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5W7J8tIP9tY/WlPnymbFT4I/AAAAAAAAT1Q/jlmK8u1woRUb0L_-F9QbTMPuy4_JDf8qACHMYCw/IMG_6110-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6110-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Janet bought a “thing” for her hair:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g0NfEa75QCI/WlPna58zRXI/AAAAAAAATz0/9ceSL_3vNRw-NC7L5dgy9AkwBOjDzAovwCHMYCw/IMG_6157-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6157-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p>And I found a few other things of interest:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L1FOJkFCGXA/WlPnLwvLuZI/AAAAAAAATy4/09XOruO9lKcTlET4Pb5s-sv69P_1z-uqACHMYCw/IMG_6101-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6101-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Yeah right.</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YkqaArj2d8E/WlPnpOkmMCI/AAAAAAAAT0w/AIfWanTzGZcuLj3IETWhRFqnfQ7UDe7OACHMYCw/IMG_6104-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6104-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>If only I could find someone to apply this to me:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GGcsziD006s/WlPoA1-XTpI/AAAAAAAAT2U/mjz3250rfh4qKdVIuphh4BsaFnvbiPHhQCHMYCw/IMG_6106-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6106-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>No idea what these are:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rTIgEhs_TDY/WlPoYY7-itI/AAAAAAAAT3k/_M_6TuxaLToibrr9aKaUaINzCCtYvUSDACHMYCw/IMG_6107-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6107-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The new way to protect your mouth from UV rays:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ka5YaUyraTk/WlPngqUV1GI/AAAAAAAAT0M/UI3iGip-Pwo3Udkjvlpucyu1BPm30A-hQCHMYCw/IMG_6102-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6102-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Lots of hangy things made of shells:</em></span></p><p> </p><p> </p><p>On the way from Broome towards Fitzroy Crossing we passed this Oka, they waved but we didn’t recognise it or them.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwgAliAXUcWAjA7JKKF_6NtJKrt1ker8G1JTTUDN1jshJ7aM0jfLPyPCfgbRVk8kxJAK-fpzDFAdCtBy8iPKG_skOaSnJDj-9pirCB0rWJU43-hzYpDBb_lvHht9OGmfZlIRO48jTlW-M5/" alt="ScreenShot2014-08-16at12.37.39pm-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YxMwnBnikEI/WlPo38jLJOI/AAAAAAAAT5g/eui_OXS-CSck9sRp0TIuHlgC7X-_3bEhgCHMYCw/IMG_6114-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6114-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Crossing the Fitzroy river:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T9k_76DRXLQ/WlPogMGz_YI/AAAAAAAAT4E/Wf8DeLupgJ8PWRFAlkBGqtwp7hgLPS5lQCHMYCw/IMG_6115-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6115-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Boabs at Wellare Bridge:</em></span></p><p> </p><p> </p><p>More huge boabs along the roadside;</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gXPOaymOgGo/WlPoBVWObhI/AAAAAAAAT2Y/pH3JOBnZck0xSuNphl2DJPYPrBujBx9qwCHMYCw/IMG_6124-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6124-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QneJh-i4PIA/WlPnolZMt3I/AAAAAAAAT0s/SIrJpFh-QRkrpHaevzI3nAGrh6xI1F3gACHMYCw/IMG_6125-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6125-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P0Ek4HLYucQ/WlPnkHNiKlI/AAAAAAAAT0c/3N28EGZxnU8VYNw6GNPCZs7SY4dFevgzACHMYCw/IMG_6126-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6126-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iw2yVpv_kPU/WlPo3CDadAI/AAAAAAAAT5c/2nzNSMBADiwKm5GF17cP60FIFmazB8owwCHMYCw/IMG_6127-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6127-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w5_fJlCdmg8/WlPn1_o52HI/AAAAAAAAT1g/OC050_4VaRsowxMM-FfNmKP0gdkytViXwCHMYCw/IMG_6128-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6128-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-D58orIiNLLo/WlPogiH5b0I/AAAAAAAAT4I/yA2xRTqz3AA4RartKFwGfRdd_hFBzTf6QCHMYCw/IMG_6133-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6133-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>Smoke started appearing on the horizon:</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HCd3yti6K_Q/WlPnPx6znwI/AAAAAAAATzI/t3jw1r7eqgg1WW-Ubo7_uwsddeW1JatBwCHMYCw/IMG_6138-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6138-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>And soon we were approaching the Gates of Hell:</em></span></p><p>Video of us passing through the Gates of Hell:</p><p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://vimeo.com/103583390">The Gates of Hell</a></span> from <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://vimeo.com/dandj">David and Janet</a></span> on <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a></span>.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ERn1VEC08AA/WlPnab779hI/AAAAAAAATzw/We5D5KCj0_k_4Xv3ftv2r17FLMOPOMDgQCHMYCw/IMG_6141-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6141-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-daCLrOiRDOc/WlPoNbh0QGI/AAAAAAAAT3E/PQbP_YeQKZwJXNy2KGfJPUn8efuVw_NAwCHMYCw/IMG_6142-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6142-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pvutLMG97t4/WlPngIY4IKI/AAAAAAAAT0I/nqzHF1xfs9ckzVeEFd6uPPdC-y1mBxVRgCHMYCw/IMG_6143-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6143-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7vJYBzHZ9A4/WlPn6yXDtOI/AAAAAAAAT10/M96faBGgCvAmQ4FkkhKuwBhNt-pWTxMVACHMYCw/IMG_6145-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6145-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YsSsGuNr4VU/WlPox_dGdgI/AAAAAAAAT5I/vihILGx3Lww-gkBgFsrayjY60IoUE8VOgCHMYCw/IMG_6146-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6146-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p><strong>17 Aug</strong></p><p>4 weeks since we set out, it seems a lot longer considering what we have done over those 4 weeks.</p><p>Last night we camped in a gravel scrape alongside the road, only 3km from a rest area, although we didn’t know that of course. Anyway our spot was nice and secluded and we had it all to ourselves, not jostling amongst caravans.</p><p>We had only done 70km today when we passed “The Lake”, a large rectangular man-made dam for watering stock. But it’s also a camping area with access allowed by the station owners and quite nice so we went in for a look and stayed all day to do some maintenance.</p><p>I took our leaking water tank out and eventually discovered a small hole in the PVC bladder. I’ll need some PVC cement from the next hardware store to fix it.</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EeIRCVBdOO8/WlPo4l7gHHI/AAAAAAAAT5k/dOFQNOIpeRw9JGJPnHAPZp_dk-BF8KAHwCHMYCw/IMG_6150-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6150-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0XDPL-oqwTA/WlPneXcdmPI/AAAAAAAAT0A/4ujS2VAcaC0QE7HqukW3Qu_YLRdsrpJMgCHMYCw/IMG_6154-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6154-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbn9I2oiJ1duEbqGEpYWe6hjgqXl43T4oz9kY8hDyPBya4gh54nW817ML3FvAeLYEebbwcn8z9W42zbCwJ5O1r7WLT_-0tIXgSlDc2EmDeACX1VN-DKdr8jsKru5JCnHoiuRydzQ380roT/" alt="IMG_6156-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJcvvsOuCcqi04NaP4-D2Qkv8KFp-Swdbg9_P2gBMFmhEO9tOzYlghzjV9gPBjfTI5JPjcHAF64Y3HcwP7TbEpZwZtt-q_-MKw8tlobw8bV9Sgz8lu1AfHx9cMP6zs2QCzBA5yIrVztIqT/" alt="IMG_6158-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdKIQHqzHl3K84kxCM2mlp0OpVDX_liITnqWOGwQKw-ofutVRkeuTmal7RH7GZUZesC1tkGVaMcMSMP45rPSnlBACM3SQR7Vr80CRUhmFSc6V2zILasbXugTf7g3X1CNa4wcpF9f5kPOAW/" alt="IMG_6160-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>We needed some washing done so we used the lake water…</em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"> <span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em> </em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_jplqO5HOIg/WlPot6csEbI/AAAAAAAAT44/zIL-A5by2PcdyT_ZIu8WowQpNx_Odd4kgCHMYCw/IMG_6161-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6161-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>and so did the local wildlife:</em></span></p><p> </p><p> </p><p><strong>18 Aug</strong></p><p>From our quite nice Lake campsite we trundled down to Fitzroy Crossing for some water and hardware supplies.</p><p>The Fitzroy River was wide and still, unlike the wet season.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hD3-EgpOv2g/WlPn088noCI/AAAAAAAAT1Y/-QnieMIdonsf-IPEHkrh4g46SxGzOzAmQCHMYCw/IMG_6167-6169-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6167-6169-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>The FC Visitor Centre was far from friendly. We asked if we could use their tap to top up our water tanks and the young lady said, “normally yes, but someone has stolen our tap top so we can’t turn it on.”</p><p>So being an engineer, I went outside and turned it on with my pliers and topped up our tank. However, that was apparently all wrong, Ms boss lady came out and said “you shouldn't be doing that, you might damage the tap and then I'd have to get a new one which will cost me money".</p><p>Too late by then though, we already had our 50 l, but I had asked first. It wasn't a very welcoming start to our FC visit, which then lasted only as long as a trip to the very helpful hardware store for a vinyl patch for a small hole in our flexible water tank.</p><p>Later we stopped for lunch at the very place where we had met up with Dave and Pauline only a few weeks ago at the start of our desert crossing, and met this very friendly lizard that had made his home in an old tyre:</p><p style="text-align: center"><em><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/T72f8N5G4qRlwf1GmINaytMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ea15SSPSowk/WlPn7dXC1oI/AAAAAAAAT14/k_vSVwsMrqE_OeOIsUuljj1z_qczIVBAQCHMYCw/IMG_6184.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="IMG_6184.JPG-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></a></em></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mQ5xWD2yVwA/WlPojPgLKnI/AAAAAAAAT4Q/VHHEnN2NH18CnaPmLMcdaQCnsvSkL4KrwCHMYCw/IMG_6200-6204-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6200-6204-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em>The breakaways from the Ngumpan Rest Area were quite nice:</em></span></p><p> </p><p> </p><p>We motored on intending to get to our previous Laura River camp spot but we passed the Mary River rest area and popped in for a look. It was quite nice and not too many people there so we decided to stay.</p><p>Well we should have motored further on, by nightfall there were over 50 vans etc milling around and it became a bit of a caravan slum. We will never learn apparently.</p><p><strong>19 Aug. our 42nd wedding anniversary</strong></p><p>Now it's 9 am and I’ve glued and clamped the patch on to the water tank, 2 actually, a larger one over the top of a smaller one, (well it wouldn’t make much sense to do it the other way around) and the place is almost empty again.</p><p>The clamps will remain on the tank until I can get around to refitting it.</p><p>And so we bade farewell to the Mary River campsite, which actually looked quite nice after most caravans had left, and drove down to Halls Creek for a few bits of fruit shopping, then headed north towards Kununurra.</p><p>We stopped to look at some very pleasant groves of boabs growing along a creek line:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L9zrPf-1FXA/WlPoGnIRcRI/AAAAAAAAT2s/QjKTkQLznWAl3vrKqB7M37jLsJHbKL7owCHMYCw/IMG_6213-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6213-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xVoiAw5Bb4E/WlPncU4ZpPI/AAAAAAAATz4/2iSL7t0sf2Q2LAXEYLodzdq2hPh8Lk3CACHMYCw/IMG_6212-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6212-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OZF0BObSClU/WlPn6Fc3kZI/AAAAAAAAT1w/v0Su5Rkykv02lPDkoraNhvvgOAzszWZuwCHMYCw/IMG_6217-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6217-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></em></span></p><p>The scenery became quite pleasant with rolling hills and creeks with water in them, not unlike the Marble Bar region.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cr4pfG5d01I/WlPnqtm37EI/AAAAAAAAT00/ndf4rYbZO3okAaFRYYfetQsobeMiQJSUgCHMYCw/IMG_6221-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6221-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>From a distance, this piece of tatty wire mesh on the old crossing looks just like a crocodile. Are we becoming paranoid?</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C8JaL7EARgU/WlPoTbBP39I/AAAAAAAAT3U/cnIbh0Sox0QwTjnfPfnwtGLMycOQG5KvQCHMYCw/IMG_6220_2-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6220_2-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>Then we started seeing Fruit Fly Restriction signs for the Kununurra area, “No Stone or Citrus Fruit from April to December”. We hadn’t seen this restriction before so we are having mandarins and custard for dessert tonight. </p><p><strong>A slithery moment</strong></p><p>We were camped alongside the Warmun Creek this afternoon, sitting outside having a quiet beer when a long black snake, at least 20m long, but actually around 1.5m, slid along the edge of the grass towards us.</p><p>I involuntarily lifted my feet off the ground and said “Hey Janet”. She saw it at the same time and lifted her feet too. The snake must have sensed something, movement or vibration, and turned a sharp left into a clump of grass about 1 meter from us and shot off at alarming speed, leaving us to slowly regain our normal heart rates.</p><p>This a recreation of the exact same spot so we can avoid it next time:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6Dfe5B-VgvI/WlPoXvld6tI/AAAAAAAAT3g/raozLXuC2IEd4fOCM7Bbvu9sS0aXnNqIwCHMYCw/IMG_6222snake-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6222snake-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>Not sure what type it was, maybe a brown snake which lives in this part of the country and can be black in colour. Either way, not an animal to be trifled with until you know what type it is and even then, not to be trifled with.</p><p>When normal heart rates had been recovered, I erected a tall NextG antenna and got a reasonable service, enough to know what Clive Palmer was up to today, but the modem claimed to have a flat battery and kept turning off. It refused to charge and turned out to have an overheating battery so a few minutes in the fridge and all was OK again.</p><p><strong>20 Aug. 42 years, one day and still going strong</strong></p><p>Continued up the road towards Kununurra past many road work restrictions and single lane bridges. Started seeing pandanus palms along creek lines which now have water in them. And it’s getting decidedly hotter. However, my decision to blow out the stuff from my radiator seems to be paying off, the temperature doesn’t rise above 90º now with A/C on and with a hot engine, but Darwin conditions will test that theory.</p><p>On the way we passed this very old car/caravan combination. It doesn’t seem the right sort of vehicle for these remote, hot outback roads, with 100’s km between service centres. Maybe cars (or their drivers) were built tough in the and 30’s and 40’s:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VAi_J8bKCig/WlPoB6N17ZI/AAAAAAAAT2c/l9ZAfn-_gwcz0t0PR-9RMd2fGh4nmqw_gCHMYCw/OldcarandcarvanontheHallsCreektoWyndhamRoad-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="OldcarandcarvanontheHallsCreektoWyndhamRoad-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></p><p>Tonight we are camped at an exclusive and free gravel scrape a few km west of Kununurra for a couple of days and I feel a rant coming on.</p><p>I don’t like Kuna much anymore, it seems a big hot dry dusty place now, not like the small green tropical oasis it used to be. We went to the Zebra Rock Gallery to feed the cat fish and be spat at by archer fish, but even that wasn’t as much fun as before.</p><p>There is still plenty of water about and big empty grassy areas but there are so many restrictions it makes one feel trapped.</p><p>We went to check out the Pump Station Restaurant where we had a good $20 night out with Charles and Fred a few years ago but that has gone downhill while the prices have gone up. $38-45 for a main course? Plus side dishes? That’s almost as much as a Big4 caravan park. I’m not being cheap but Value For Money is and always will be the criteria.</p><p>The ANZAC Hill memorial overlooking the Kununurra Valley is a sad place, just a few white concrete blocks scattered about the dusty ground, a boab tree and a bunch of flowers. No monuments or plaques of any kind. Maybe they’ve been taken away for restoration but there was nothing to suggest that, and the gates are still locked at night, to prevent what exactly?</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Kzgpmt9t7Xk/WlPn1Z_01FI/AAAAAAAAT1c/FDa8NbmSzqIFrieUQEYbRnmCOZZhbvg_QCHMYCw/ScreenShot2014-08-21at1.07.37pm-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg" alt="ScreenShot2014-08-21at1.07.37pm-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.jpg"></p><p>We did do some washing and refilled the water tank in Kuna but fuel is $1.92/l so that’s not cheap either. Overall Broome was much nicer and much more economic.</p><p>We’ve done 1128km since leaving Broome with about 450km to go to Katherine and reasonable fuel cost again so I’ll need to put in a splash of fuel to get us there. Not many fuel stops between here and there (Timber Creek, Victoria River).</p><p>I’ve taken a happy pill now so everything will feel better soon.</p><p>Tomorrow morning while it’s still cool I have to refit the glued up water tanks and test it and on Friday we have booked a half day cruise on Lake Argyle with lunch thrown in ($95 each seemed reasonable although the concession was only about $5 less), before heading east into the NT.</p><p><strong>21 Aug</strong></p><p>The water tank is now refitted, not without some difficulty and a few swear words, but it’s now 3/4 full and it seems to be holding water.</p><p>Janet had another wildlife scare when she nearly trod on a land crab. They are supposed to hibernate in deep mud until the rains come but this one got woken up too early.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQa8oJD8BWMVHYgSjQSQfSpi4Jwg9uyYBWjMaWxNWu5A5vbVKoBL0sz8Cy-5u3i1A64QtCE7dlW9AQWH4M2gl0t8iFLd1BEjxMOYxx1JFIkek9wLvYYPfbRqC4MpXaeWVTQJv9ytCs3ZK6/" alt="IMG_6241-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>We bought a few items in Coles, got our fuel 4c off and came up to the Swim/Ski Beach for lunch.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-poP08ItDDIw/WlPo1FLKjBI/AAAAAAAAT5U/aO_XSGbjJYMhlGnsYB38bTamcIlzxZ14QCHMYCw/IMG_6245-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6245-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>The last estuarine crocodile sighting in Lake Kununurra was 14 July, like only a month ago, so the Swim/Ski Beach may have to be renamed.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7byLSYPPGNQ/WlPo2vkza-I/AAAAAAAAT5Y/TMaqtAM1Q_8l1gzjiJdm4_0dJmg1qvtRwCHMYCw/IMG_6246-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6246-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>A dragon tree near the Kununurra Swim Beach. The only other dragon trees we’ve seen were in the middle of a desert:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hTp6R9cGyEw/WlPoQm8PMXI/AAAAAAAAT3M/_9JXHEc9Ewwp-UAKe1tt9gfeE09ttuHIACHMYCw/IMG_6248-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6248-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aRn8WM-ANOg/WlPnRQCY2TI/AAAAAAAATzM/76iLv6CIkGcpgRv9VF_n33yMwhtAk3VWQCHMYCw/IMG_6249-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6249-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>After lunch we were sitting around, in between float planes taking off and wondering what to do when we had an idea. Instead of our exclusive and free gravel scrape campsite tonight, why not drive up to Lake Argyle and stay in the caravan park there where we will be nice and early for our cruise in the morning. And so we did.</p><p>It’s a 1 hour, 70km drive to the “resort” and it was very crowded when we got there but they had plenty of space as long as you weren’t waiting in line behind 6 camper trailers all wanting to camp together, which of course we were.</p><p>However our simple needs took precedence and for $30 (not too unreasonable) we soon got an unpowered site in what turned out to be one of the most spectacular caravan parks we’ve been to. </p><p>The views over Lake Argyle were stunning, as was the “water to the rim” swimming pool. Apparently voted the most stunning pool in Australia, and I want one, especially with that view.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6hFw9sFK1Bc/WlPnfVU7UmI/AAAAAAAAT0E/UuvuABHyQUwphplP9GHd3K5-WerO5bvzACHMYCw/IMG_6264-6266-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6264-6266-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia2L0GCRrvnp7QkcZRtqJhYxFtMaBVdydbIeaRXqu-x6b4T7PFhX6lCmVv85rhUYueTKwMr7zlaUv6WOh2qNCX4Xt5fC8yWb33Iwba0uBCVyVhlz6oM8otH9rHlvsXKr0G80-EIElc69jV/" alt="IMG_6285-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></em></span></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dNMSqdDaMFc/WlPnwOXBbAI/AAAAAAAAT1I/n36bH-dTUEQyyJEOUeYIz8zNQi4PZ23yACHMYCw/IMG_6275-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6275-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></em></span></p><p>A helicopter was on standby in case anyone needed a sunset cruise over the lake. No doubt he’ll be up with the larks at 6 am tomorrow morning as well.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-fUok_P0OAD9L9STclGPCTZPoGdyRncZyJoKgUk8Z2qJp13wDdV2YsLbUaPZBgDPPFtl76KULQ4Oanxl6_9gOSBwj4SCngI3BYz0GBHekqDvpuYjs1H4yGMXoe_R1tVunLx0Llaf0LVTG/" alt="IMG_6276-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>Sunset over Lake Argyle</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0wBW64xfAIg/WlPoDEB76QI/AAAAAAAAT2g/M7bVpovTN8YqXNnBoK6T0QetPARVaFnCQCHMYCw/IMG_6279-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6279-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p><strong>22 Aug</strong></p><p>Early morning cruise today, preceded by a very interesting 1 hour video on the construction of the Ord River dam and its infrastructure, but not before bacon, eggs and tomato for breakfast, with bacon(!!).</p><p>The cruise was much, much more interesting than we had anticipated with a very well informed and almost continuous presentation from a young Kiwi, Josh from just north of Wellington with a PhD in Australian Raptors.</p><p>The lake looks big on the map but it’s not until you get down to it that you realise just how big it actually is, 70km long, 35km wide and up to 44 meters deep (today), there are parts where you can’t see the hills on the far horizon and the views are, well, stunning.</p><p>Here’s our cruise in pictures:</p><p>This is our cruise liner, 50 seater, all aluminium catamaran, with powerful twin Cummins diesels, although there were only around 25 persons on board for our cruise today. It was named the Kimberley Durack, (the grandson of Patsy Durack who first acquired the land in the 1870’s) who saw the benefits of damming the Ord but sadly didn’t live to see his vision completed.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rODGScGjZQk/WlPop6tmH-I/AAAAAAAAT4o/f6Tpbjkyg8swPQKbHRcY_2qbX0chlrs1gCHMYCw/IMG_6346-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6346-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>The dam wall took 3 dry seasons to construct and is made of compressed clay with a rock protective covering. It’s very small considering the vast volume of water it’s holding back (18 to 70 times as big as Sydney Harbour, depending on the wet season variations). Currently the lake area is more than 1,000 sq km (up to 2,000 sq km in the wet season and can be 9m higher than the current water level). It was anticipated to fill in 7 to 8 years but actually only took 3 years.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NDKDFBvV6Ag/WlPo5ZyuDLI/AAAAAAAAT5o/6XZeNuWQMBcSbJ7hwzU2giMF4NjvKxzogCHMYCw/IMG_6290-6291-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6290-6291-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>Cruising at 40 kph:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GznjGMtDP9k/WlPodHG-m1I/AAAAAAAAT30/4xoZ3Sk_IjgczN6GMfJjkinicaYrJZLuQCHMYCw/IMG_6327-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6327-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>The size of the lake becomes apparent as we rounded the local islands and headed out across the lake:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1gEURdViD8A/WlPoM96bJ5I/AAAAAAAAT3A/nz1ZysjRos0qSnSCgQe6IDVgyA0dZaKvACHMYCw/IMG_6308-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6308-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>We passed pelicans and black cormorants:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UPUg_CfGcGE/WlPoe7WpPdI/AAAAAAAAT34/HHe7VCXC9wcX1jGJnzkkCgRGH6Yu8BqJwCHMYCw/IMG_6299-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6299-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>At least Janet wasn’t sick, the lake was flat today but the waves can reach 3m during wet season storms:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZJfz8pUXLbI/WlPoFJERZWI/AAAAAAAAT2o/Rj8wncoXV6gSkV97Mov2pKkC6MtKn6vIQCHMYCw/IMG_6292-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6292-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>The boat cabin was spacious and light with no windows to block our view (fully air-conditioned and it was pleasantly cool).</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kwTn-swQsfI/WlPoiAf1uGI/AAAAAAAAT4M/JE2ZSjbwnc0akJcf3JqxI3UsShByGNRCACHMYCw/IMG_6322-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6322-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>I took a turn driving the boat while we were doing a pedestrian 17kph between islands (but our moving map display is bigger than Captain Jack’s):</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UD3eTBjQxoM/WlPonN7D0hI/AAAAAAAAT4c/kX298p231GgdD4osHUFWb1crAzf3dtW0QCHMYCw/IMG_6306-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6306-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>The end of the lake is 50km away and over the horizon:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QAurCnrLm8c/WlPn8Bjq4qI/AAAAAAAAT18/-nhZfBBw0AQmmJP9wYAgf97iqFdQsJ4_gCHMYCw/IMG_6340-6342-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6340-6342-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>We stopped off at a large island where local wallaroos had been relocated to by environmentalists Harry Butler and Malcolm Douglas in the early 1970’s as the lake filled.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UjR6WNBur_8/WlPnl7YPPhI/AAAAAAAAT0g/Vpg_MBbykrcq7PnOOsY84i4SenKJ-_uKQCHMYCw/IMG_6317-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6317-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>A nearby “Kimberley Rose”, a pretty small tree with sticky red flowers on it:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LPxZfIxOUdE/WlPotLh0f_I/AAAAAAAAT40/Dw3e7-MW6bkrphxWLlXqbnaH0JL_Q56uACHMYCw/IMG_6324-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6324-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>Later we stopped on a beach on an island for lunch and an optional swim:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Rrskoug6m8s/WlPnWDeNg5I/AAAAAAAATzg/V40oomkNOowpMldEeHEiWICGk0PCph71QCHMYCw/IMG_6336-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6336-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>You’d think we were cruising a major ocean.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r3L66fdjnBQ/WlPnSsMM4zI/AAAAAAAATzQ/70xM0x4PGqkzBH99m0ZhXx0XjqdrgtbqQCHMYCw/IMG_6337-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6337-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>Lunch was BBQ’d Silver Cobbler, a large tasty catfish variety from the lake (which is highly sought after in Perth fish markets) plus chicken, ham and salad, with beer or wine: </p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YOdXkBKnmrc/WlPomOwHgyI/AAAAAAAAT4Y/MRtZbrCCCGI86GvTZFvwxg1UMsPImXtzgCHMYCw/IMG_6338-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6338-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>On the way back (and after the swim, lest anyone be scared witless), we visited a section of the lake shore where freshwater crocodiles nest. There were an estimated 25,000 freshies in the lake at the last survey, but fortunately no salties (as yet discovered):</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dk0cX94Geqg/WlPniU5F9hI/AAAAAAAAT0Q/tRC9iJRDmO0KYOguB22KYoFlrsRT8EVYwCHMYCw/IMG_6343-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6343-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>The flat-topped Argyle diamond mine is visible 35km away to the west:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OWQ_PqtI3KU/WlPnPaWO2PI/AAAAAAAATzE/ipZX4-FwN0862y5dCNpOhlrp6iChJLlzQCHMYCw/IMG_6333-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6333-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>Downstream from the dam is a hydro power system which supplies Kununurra, Wyndham and the Argyle Diamond mine with environmentally friendly power: This is also the Ord river which is dammed again in Kununurra (by the diversion dam) as a water supply. Overall, the original flows of the Ord have been maintained, despite having created the largest freshwater lake in Australia.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u39YEiItIrY/WlPn36aiy6I/AAAAAAAAT1o/V7jFB281bZMZ6NhCxIrsfvHSh4pLZvjSwCHMYCw/IMG_6355-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6355-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>This Ord river tributary which is now a spillway exit for the lake still flows with its original flows although it’s fairly low in the dry season:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nM1nCVkr3nU/WlPntLer-NI/AAAAAAAAT1A/WLHCiIa_NPQQ6LzAyZU2tv3jg2RbMi6fgCHMYCw/IMG_6362-6364-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6362-6364-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>Crossing the Ord River I saw a beautiful Jabiru Stork (now boringly called a Black Necked Stork):</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ITNpwTU0Wys/WlPovB2e-II/AAAAAAAAT48/S51a5JGKwY8P4HaVVjw0Da2YqmGTYYTMQCHMYCw/IMG_6356-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6356-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>This cruise was one of the best experiences we’ve had in a long time. We been to Lake Argyle several times before but never had a cruise before. Janet takes all the credit for the idea but I take the credit for turning it into an anniversary pressie.</p><p>Warning political rant follows:</p><p>Overall, the statistics of Lake Argyle are mind boggling, or at least mine was boggled. And ultimately made me sad but mad.</p><p>1000 sq km surface area, evaporation rate of 200,000 l per day, and enough water annually to supply all of Australia’s water requirements many times over. The peak flow rate in the 2011 wet season was the second highest in the world after the Amazon, measured in millions of gigalitres per second. During March 2011, they received 1400mm of rain in 3 weeks in the catchment area.</p><p>But the area under irrigation is actually relatively small, 12,000 hectares and most of this is now used for growing Indian Sandalwood for a Chinese company. Why? That was never the original intention. So after all this work and expense, very little is actually used for growing crops for Australians and worst of all, <strong>almost all the Ord’s water still flows into the Indian Ocean</strong> at Wyndham. </p><p>Same old sad story, lots of resources but in the wrong place. Plenty of water here but it’s needed down south. Plenty of solar energy in the centre but the consumers are all down south. The WA minister who dreamt up a canal from the Kimberley to Perth got the idea right but the technology lags behind. Shipping solar energy (electricity or something made with it) to major cities down south should be quite possible.</p><p>It’s not rocket science, it just takes governmental guts and determination, not piddling around with parental leave schemes which generates no benefit. A 500km water pipeline from Perth to Kalgoorlie was installed in the 1880’s. The engineer was hounded into suicide by opposition doubters but the pipeline was built and is still in use today. The Snowy Mountain scheme of the 1950’s reversed river flows to irrigate the inland of NSW, so all things are possible. Currently we can ship thousands of tonnes of live beef, iron ore and natural gas around the world but can’t ship a few litres of water a few km south. <strong>Instead we spend $billions on desalination plants</strong>.</p><p>This one touristy cruise has opened my eyes to the total stupidity and lack of vision of our governments, of all persuasions. I would happily give back my $550 (if I ever got it) from the carbon tax if I could see something worthwhile being implemented, but sadly I’m reminded of dead horses and how it’s a waste of time to flog them.</p><p><strong>The words “Government” and “long term vision” can no longer be used in the same sentence</strong>.</p><p>End of rant.</p><p>This afternoon we left Lake Argyle and headed into the NT, only a few km east but 1 1/2 hours ahead in time, to camp in the Keep River National Park at the Gurranldalgn campground.</p><p>But first we called in at the Ranger Station at Cockatoo Lagoon for a quick look. It seems to have a bit more water in this year and looks as pretty as ever:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wYxoTjsHWkE/WlPoy-_L4MI/AAAAAAAAT5M/mUgGwUd9lbgsOk8t5cMXJHwRzSxotAsmQCHMYCw/IMG_6369-6371-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6369-6371-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p><strong>23 Aug</strong></p><p>At first light (plus a bit) we did a very nice 2km walk over the Gurranldalgn hills, one we’ve done twice before but it’s very picturesque.</p><p>It was quite nice to find some cool shade even at 8am:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oPkf9t1uo3Y/WlPnNSo0dPI/AAAAAAAATy8/AboZNldC2NMDz8PdUXCemvAPrNwGgxiiwCHMYCw/IMG_6372-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6372-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>And a shady hole in the rock. I bet no one has ever had their photo taken here before:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8GOJnAN1ImA/WlPowX4T_SI/AAAAAAAAT5A/G93FyZz3yGMfP-qvRN4Gx5lSIbTHXDYZwCHMYCw/IMG_6374-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6374-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>A large “leaf” from an Acacia Dunnii. Actually we discovered that acacia leaves are not true leaves at all but flattened stems painted green, which accounts for the fact that veins in acacia leaves run parallel to the stem, not across like most leaves.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7iybObC89NM/WlPn0HVDmUI/AAAAAAAAT1U/zCiCwmfJ8McrWdc3OvLNdzYvvRKJHWNrACHMYCw/IMG_6386-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6386-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>The view from the escarpment in the early morning sun was spectacular and looks like a mini Bungle Bungles:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9xaE6slVb68/WlPoAbVA5II/AAAAAAAAT2Q/mFWFe06H-S4hRMvNKAr-mG_WAtny8lYqwCHMYCw/IMG_6378-6382-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6378-6382-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>A bank of silver leafed acacias agains the rock wall:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v1EQAMKui8w/WlPo6xyHdmI/AAAAAAAAT5s/Zo_Tw7HkoHczJ5coTELdGArOcoOIaZlNgCHMYCw/IMG_6385-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6385-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>A very pretty but unidentified mauvey-pink bush with a magnificent backdrop:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zZL5busfs4c/WlPnXsuRUOI/AAAAAAAATzk/av-czsCe9dABadyn896dv70UVtQXpACvwCHMYCw/IMG_6377-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6377-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>After our walk we left the Keep River National Park, at least as far and the entrance track where I stopped to grease the clutch release bearing which had started squealing. Much better now.</p><p>We then drove down the monotonous mostly burnt out highway towards Timber Creek. About 20km west of TC is the Gregory Tree, a large Boab alongside the Victoria River (a major crocodile river) blazed by Gregory and his mates in 1856. He named Timber Creek since it was the best location for acquiring timber for boat building.</p><p>We stopped to look at the 200m wide Victoria River and all looked pleasant and calm until I blew up some pictures from the opposite bank.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rd16I-LTrXA/WlPoxITKE7I/AAAAAAAAT5E/O32Taqpz8lUahV2lO7kCZjBiOuUn2QZuACHMYCw/IMG_6388-6390-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6388-6390-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>These “logs” on the far bank have changed places in the space of about 1/2 hour.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1_Y14BhAGiU/WlPokcg-b7I/AAAAAAAAT4U/kR9xvWXCkY0sYcmwPZXYOaY7u_Es5oWfACHMYCw/IMG_6391-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6391-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"> <img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JW2prau4fOI/WlPoR5YxGXI/AAAAAAAAT3Q/pGq7du5slXAiyVoXg0SJJ2L67-Bbm5GcQCHMYCw/IMG_6392-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6392-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>A blown up section but you can see the head on the right and the curled around tail on the left.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Bc4z732ycfc/WlPoLps376I/AAAAAAAAT28/LZqrLTUxOXg7tNpIh-wnKL1iXstATDy4QCHMYCw/ScreenShot2014-08-23at4.31.56pm-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="ScreenShot2014-08-23at4.31.56pm-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>We are camped overlooking this spot on the nearside bank but at least 100m from the water’s edge and 10m up on an embankment. We had a close encounter with a croc a few years ago on the Mary River east of Darwin and have no wish to repeat the experience.</p><p>We did have a visit from a couple of kangaroos though.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gn7DR1CcmHM/WlPoKGVkl1I/AAAAAAAAT20/sbvep6bUi0gAP9UeKSJ_75uMlZq76UzhgCHMYCw/IMG_6396-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6396-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>Tomorrow we strike out for Katherine.</p><p><strong>24 Aug</strong></p><p>Before striking out for Katherine, we thought we should actually have another look at the Gregory Tree which was the purpose of our side trip anyway.</p><p>Augustus Gregory was tasked in 1855/6 to determine if claims of good cattle grazing country in the north of Northern Australia were true (which he did and they were)</p><p>The nearby township of Timber Creek was established and named by Gregory as a source of good timber, surprisingly enough.</p><p>He established a base camp on the Victoria River and his artist, Thomas Baines, inscribed this then much smaller boab tree with details of the expedition’s progress, including the date July 2nd 1856.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QkJTJCm646k/WlPnx9s4FBI/AAAAAAAAT1M/gnXpEsgm2T0ta1Q0GYE4pGjc3CCx7UAbgCHMYCw/IMG_6402-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6402-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>These twin boabs were also referred to in Baines writings as a direction pointer to the camp. Janet wee’d behind them, or was about to when some other tourists appeared and curtailed the process.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3xCAW8lJuro/WlPoIuLJ4lI/AAAAAAAAT2w/x3wkNwhQOisnTSt2Q0nQw0qJo3FB68bVgCHMYCw/IMG_6404-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6404-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>On the way back we spied this northern rosella in a boab tree with some boab nuts (all parts of which are edible):</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kwV_ymDlgHc/WlPoPC3UsCI/AAAAAAAAT3I/Cal52abm7X4zAG-3fB1iS1kqJ_m0EJtJACHMYCw/IMG_6409-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6409-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>Does this bull’s face (on a neighbouring station) remind you of something out of Star Wars? </p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_PvhirlsiMmSigefd9REf2g9AGh3dtNUHGTGgqf5jD4pbFBV3pU0CzGz1iQTSAnRZa3uAsl6nDN_X8WOyZRO5SsANVKRUj656RrEhoWa6ACnI4hoWyKOvo6-pWcD3NvgsVHWQWp5hV96H/" alt="IMG_6411-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>Leaving such imponderables behind us we continued east to where the Victoria River become narrower and shallower, to where an early causeway had been built.</p><p>Not a bad lunch spot?</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ieLjPOCHkEE/WlPoboFrZhI/AAAAAAAAT3w/qfGDu7lSD5YFDVIVHaZF1MQRn4jq9mwpACHMYCw/IMG_6464_1-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6464_1-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Mh5n1VJ0apg/WlPnrSYUoxI/AAAAAAAAT04/B7TVL_3JhRAQqJmJR5jJEmbn8t6kTZVbgCHMYCw/IMG_6434-6438-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6434-6438-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="color: rgb(0,0,0);"><em><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sNLUduyBQS4/WlPooLzNaiI/AAAAAAAAT4g/Aw8FU5wEw2QmverKCR41BumsdxE1Or7WwCHMYCw/IMG_6451-6453-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6451-6453-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></em></span></p><p>Radjah Shelducks were foraging in the shallows:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEituCtncL_RwWM2dwbzh03Hy3DC14W6g1v6NQzK74DyzImeaFL8TIONlV64kbbqy8NxC-r8KgWq3wunIarJVRZaml_1qB1vX1FEb8ow763cBOogwhPbZJTJvUaLOjNOPcphNqI21xHMEQy0/" alt="IMG_6463-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>The old causeway is looking in a sad state after 100 years of wet season’s raging torrents:</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RI7g-DiJoOE/WlPnKtIQRWI/AAAAAAAATy0/r-TrvhEr2_AuYTxlbZwu_Ej8kK5aT7X7wCHMYCw/IMG_6443-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png" alt="IMG_6443-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-11-16-16-21.png"></p><p>We reached Manbulloo Station Stay, just west of Katherine at 4pm after 1600km and 7 days from Broome, for a couple of days maintenance and shopping before heading north to Darwin.</p><p>5600km completed so far on this trek, about 3500km to go.</p><p><strong>25 Aug</strong></p><p>Had a lazy morning so far, managed to access the internet for what to do in Darwin that we haven’t already done.</p><p>A day trip to the Tiwi Islands seemed like a good idea but when I searched for info all I got were confusing and misleading stuff about Aboriginal Tours (the only kind you can get and need a permit to visit anyway), and nowhere to book an economical tour ($250 by ferry or $450 by air, each) either. So I looked at Trip Advisor and all the comments were negative, waste of a day, no culture (no dancing, no art sites, no scenery etc), all time spent in one arts place, childish paintings, expensive arts, money, money, money etc and basically waste of time and money.</p><p>So that’s off the agenda, in favour of a $30 per 24 hours hop on-hop off double decker bus tour. It got tons of good reviews, even though we’ve done most of the places before, not having to drive, park, walk about in the heat seems a more and more attractive option.</p><p>In the afternoon we went shopping in Katherine for food, fuel and gas, all successfully, plus Janet bought some shorts in Rockmans as she always does. It was stinking hot but the counter girl in Rockmans was wearing jeans, a long jumper and a woolly scarf and still complained of feeling cold. Must have had hypothermia or ebola or something else exotic.</p><p>Follow the other sections of our 2014 trek here:</p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/adelaide-to-halls-creek.html">Adelaide to Halls Creek</a></p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/northern-highway-to-mclarty-hills.html">Crossing the Great Sandy Desert</a></p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/darwin-to-adelaide.html">Darwin to Adelaide</a></p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-58988886906082532552014-11-09T09:54:00.002+10:302015-11-18T06:55:11.240+10:30Power Door Locks update<p><span style="color: #021968; font-size: 10pt;"><strong>Introduction</strong></span></p><p>During our 9 month trek around north and eastern Australia in 2005, the Oka performed very well but one of the frustrations we encountered was having to walk around the vehicle locking and unlocking the doors by key every time we left it or returned to it.</p><p>Since I had to remove the drivers door lock for maintenance (the door wouldn’t stay closed sometimes due to build up of dirt in the mechanism (see <a href="http://travailsofanoka.blogspot.com/2009/05/reviving-oka-door-catches.html">here</a> for how I fixed this problem) I vowed then to investigate central locking, preferably by a remote control.</p><p>The remote function is a fairly easy add-on to complete the process, but the mechanics and electrics have to be working first.</p><p>I used a 4 Door Power Door Lock System from Jaycar (Part LR8812, $39.95), plus some microswitches for each door and then added a Remote Control System from Oatley Electronics (about$50.00). Total cost was about $150, plus a few days work.</p><p>The hard bit is getting the solenoids mounted and operating effectively, the slightly easier part is electrical wiring.</p><p><span style="color: #0a2850;"><strong>How has it Worked in Practice?</strong></span> </p><p>This system has now been in operation for more than 8 years and we've had remarkably few problems:</p><p>1) Occasionally the rear door locks itself. This is due to vibration which can shake the operating plate down into the lock position, but only on the rear door, the design of which is inverted from the front doors due to space constraints. It can easily be fixed by locking and unlocking the doors.</p><p>2) If the auxiliary battery (or which ever battery is powering the system) is isolated (or flat), the doors locks can't work. This might seem pretty obvious but it can be annoying while I'm doing maintenance work, when I forget, and can't unlock the doors. The normal door key still however.</p><p>3) Such is the reliability of the system, we frequently don't even remove the keys from the ignition when we leave the vehicle (it's difficult to see in anyway due to its height plus we have an immobiliser). We just lock the doors electrically, which works fine, but does place more reliance on the external hidden switch/remote control working when needed. It's advisable to secrete a normal door key on the outside of the Oka, somewhere vibration-proof, for peace of mind.</p><p><span style="color: #021968; font-size: 10pt;"><strong>How It Works</strong></span></p><p>Oka door handles work by a pusher, bolted to the rear of the key lock barrel, which pushes a striker plate on the door mechanism to release the catch.</p><p>If the doors are then locked, by turning the key 180º, the pusher misses the striker plate and does nothing, the doors will not open.</p><p>Oka door locks aren’t like ordinary cars and can't be automated by direct access to the door handle pusher: </p><p>1 -It would need the pusher lever rotated 180º to change from locked to unlocked or back, which is difficult to implement, and</p><p>2 -The barrel won't turn anyway unless the key is inserted, which defeats the object</p><p>of the exercise. </p><p>In this implementation, a movable extension is added to the lock striker plate, and is rotated in and out of the path of the pusher by a solenoid. While in the key locked position, the door handle pusher opens the door by pushing the plate, when it is moved into place by the solenoid, ie. "unlocking" the door. The pusher misses the plate when it is moved away from the pusher, ie. "locking" the door.</p><p>This modification does not affect normal internal door opening, closing or locking mechanisms, which will all still work. It can only affect whether the external door handle can be used to open the doors or not, and then only in the key locked position. The unlocked position by key will still work as normal (but obviously prevents the solenoids from taking effect). Thus this mod cannot prevent entry to the Oka, even if something fails. (You can, however, still lock yourself out if you try hard, see Potential Problems and Fixes).</p><p>The worst case failure mode is that the modification could prevent one or more doors from being locked from the outside. This could happen if one of the moving plates jammed in the unlock position (unlikely) or a solenoid or the electrical supply/fuse failed (more likely).</p><p>In this event, the moving plate would have to be rotated out of the way manually and the key used as normal for door locking until the problem is resolved.</p><p>(See Potential Problems and Fixes). </p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><a href="http://s449.photobucket.com/albums/qq216/dandjr/Power%20Door%20Locks/?action=view&current=file-22.jpg"><img alt="file-22-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD9r62XkIQBSOt8nNsAS9exLxRehZnFHok2gIAR7IC1_LB-nmzWrP9Uyxg8Tc_4YwjhknhL-zomPiQIe2bVWtYxp1UETykgfhxIMs1eDERSaKol4gKgiPkRWs6PJLUd2Hv9H4mVcq1G70/" /></a></div></p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-6-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA9TFotiu1elZppPUTgUt8bH998AXLafgVrfZlEEJWoVa0D1dMomyu9k0wXmfc1sDXdKabIm2iA6y1umdhnqAoinHUyY94Fj0Ex_tOL3ZXf87cD0ig2mfeNcwF8FhPsArN8UCP5uezzww/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 1a and 1b, Moving Plate System (Unlocked Position)</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><a href="http://s449.photobucket.com/albums/qq216/dandjr/Power%20Door%20Locks/?action=view&current=file-4.jpg"><img alt="file-4-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOeGfAqjDTmax0ULUVZqR1HmvqfqiSfm6svuWcBcSlLdKe7NZ53XbQy3RjfzQDxDf2ox6rXTKlSGHKSoqBzXz8ZqSIa8UdUCmT9Ir1gniF5bUGZl_BYT3HIfvS_Lz-RVke-MDbjlVuu3s/" /></a></div></p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-5-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTre96k9HwMsWGcXxG4vfs7TASrrzFdKARoEcGvfOcB0OWArMjk4s5bYS0PECuGKzmdAqCyvUldVak0vRN1aM_DeY38wuiA16ywx8l4zhPVQipBniuZTdeZudbONVEx62WrvJT3svmvt0/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 2a and 2b, Moving Plate System (Locked)</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p>Note the moving plates were enlarged a bit after these photos was taken to increase the area the pusher had to push against. It was too close to the edge in this design. </p><p><span style="color: #021968; font-size: 10pt;"><strong>How it is Implemented</strong></span></p><p>The 4 door power door lock kit from Jaycar comprises a master and 3 slave solenoids, fixings and wiring harness. They also have a 2 door version.</p><p>A solenoid is fitted to the catch mechanism of each door driving a moving plate as outlined above. The master solenoid is fitted in the drivers door.</p><p>Microswitches are mounted inside the doors, operated by tabs on the internal door handle lever, to lock and/or unlock the door solenoids from inside the vehicle. These are optional but greatly increase the flexibility of the system.</p><p>For this implementation to work, doors must remain in the locked position, by key, at all times. Only then can door lock solenoids enable or disable entry, by moving the plate in or out of the path of the door handle pusher.</p><p>If the doors are unlocked manually by key, the solenoids can have no effect either way but the doors will open normally (eg. in case of solenoid failure or stuck plates).</p><p>If the doors are subsequently locked manually by key, entry status will be determined by the position of the solenoids. </p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p></div></p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-16-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJwVDJ6a3WkuDFz0-0EqGtr0H_Qiw6l8xk9GN0iPHOO0HN8EhjlEg9daacMUPMWbQcLnemQAX8ALyTqXHZPzbPjFYyrDpwM6g_Acj4tFti21Ry8d4MBHL2QwzmKOzRYvkiuj16miHHqFQ/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 3 Solenoid and Plate Mounting - Top View</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><a href="http://s449.photobucket.com/albums/qq216/dandjr/Power%20Door%20Locks/?action=view&current=file-14.jpg"><img alt="file-14-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP5PqFao_79T4bAiHUTfY_nbSSCbO_DMh_9ku8iCDBaRLptitP9jOtHriu-6dNHEtE6gQgAglh-nvK791K7poYb1Q4cLFwbggTgqvX0888dHCY5eKx-QFDMe4o2FPOiuNnAsHEhG2vio8/" /></a></div></p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 353px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-17-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQWCfCpzqRCJ1ZLeOzR8GsaPyMOF9JoRyd1TfPGB35MsxZkDtQ8CMihiTBM7oZo7ISU9NjIafWc58uPrtAht5RrnrQgqbpbJ1FnEEz9rfyAT7V4haZjk6iINHAhQ5wE9nh92dFXNLWY4/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 353px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 4a and 4b, Solenoid and Plate Mounting - End View and Installed View</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p>(Rear Door, Locked Position, note the pusher rod will miss the plate when the handle is pressed)</p><p><span style="color: #021968; font-size: 10pt;"><strong>Solenoid Operation</strong></span></p><p>Solenoids have to be triggered via one or more of the following methods:</p><p>1 - a remote control, or</p><p>2 - an external, hidden, 2 way momentary action toggle switch or magnetic window switch, to lock or unlock all doors (simple, but a small security risk), or</p><p>3 - microswitch(es) mounted on the internal door frame/rails operated by tabs fitted to the internal door handle levers to unlock all doors when opened from inside (and relock all doors if 2 microswitches per door are used).</p><p>This is so you can go outside at night, for example, without the door locking behind you, and then relock all doors on re-entry. The remote is not necessary for this.</p><p>4 - Internal security switch to lock or unlock all doors from within the vehicle.</p><p>Any or all of these options can be implemented concurrently since all switches are wired in parallel. My recommendation for best functionality and reliability is to use all four methods.</p><p>Note: the remote and additional switch functions can be added after the system is otherwise operational. </p><p><span style="color: #021968; font-size: 10pt;"><strong>Operating Summary</strong></span></p><p>In this implementation, Power Door Solenoids can only enable opening or non-opening (locking) of doors while the handles remain in the locked position, by key.</p><p>Solenoids cannot lock the doors if the locks are unlocked by key.</p><p>Normal external and internal door opening and locking mechanisms are <strong>not affected</strong> by this mod, although the internal locking position could be deemed redundant (see below).</p><p>An internal, momentary action, security switch could be added (or by using the remote) to activate the solenoids whilst inside (at night for example) to enable, or prevent, access from outside. This does not affect operation of internal door mechanical door locks, but has essentially the same result, and is a bit easier than crawling around to each door in turn.</p><p>A remote control entry system can be used to energise the solenoids, subject to the above requirements and is the best solution.</p><p>Information on the Jaycar Power Door Lock system can be seen at <strong><a href="http://www.jaycar.com.au/images_uploaded/powrlock.pdf">http://www.jaycar.com.au/images_uploaded/powrlock.pdf</a></strong></p><p><strong><a href="http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LR8812&CATID=&keywords=%3Cbr%20/%3Eremote+entry&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&%3Cbr%20/%3EProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=%3Cbr%20/%3E&SUBCATID=">The Jaycar Door Lock Kit, part no. LR8812 at $39.95 for 4 door kit</a></strong> <a href="file:///Users/davidribbans2/Documents/Cars/Mechanical%20Info/tiki-view_cache.php?url=http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LR8812&CATID=&keywords=remote+entry&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=">(cache)</a></p><p>Also Jaycar LR8839 remote keyfob entry system for $69.95 see <strong><a href="http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LR8839&CATID=&keywords=%3Cbr%20/%3E8839&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCode%3Cbr%20/%3EOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=">http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LR8839&CATID=&keywords=</a></strong></p><p><strong><a href="http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LR8839&CATID=&keywords=%3Cbr%20/%3E8839&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCode%3Cbr%20/%3EOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=">8839&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCode</a></strong></p><p><strong><a href="http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LR8839&CATID=&keywords=%3Cbr%20/%3E8839&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCode%3Cbr%20/%3EOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=">Only=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=</a></strong> <a href="file:///Users/davidribbans2/Documents/Cars/Mechanical%20Info/tiki-view_cache.php?url=http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LR8839&CATID=&keywords=8839&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=">(cache)</a></p><p>Oatley have usable remote systems a bit cheaper and more flexible (but not as elegant and have to be assembled) see <strong><a href="http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//product_info.php?products_id=382">Oatley Electronics</a></strong></p><p>The K203 is a 2 or 4 channel kit, with 2 channels used for Lock and Unlock functions.</p><p>The additional channels could be used for turning lights or other electrical equipment on remotely.</p><p>Dick Smith has a 4 door solenoid set for $50 and appears to be similar to the Jaycar kit. They are also available on-line via eBay. </p><p><span style="color: #021968; font-size: 10pt;"><strong>Door Lock Mechanics</strong></span></p><p>Construction of the door lock system needs a degree of precision fiddling to get the solenoids into the best position to operate the moving plate, while providing clearance from the door mechanism, door frame and window slide.</p><p>Four components must be manufactured for each door (see attached photos and diagrams, microswitch plates not shown). Note that the left and right hand doors will need mirror image brackets and plates.</p><p>1 - Right angle bracket, bolted on to the striker plate. This is attached by 2 screws to prevent movement and forms the basis for mounting a sliding striker plate extension. See picture below of solenoid assembled on rear door catch.</p><p>2 - Striker plate extension mounted on the above bracket by 1 screw and well greased lock nut, such that it can rotate. It has a 3mm hole to accommodate the actuating rod from the solenoid. (You'll probably need to remake a few of these before getting it right, since the shape depends a lot on the relative location of the door handle pusher, which can vary from door to door and with wear on the lock barrel).</p><p>3 - "Z" rail__ for mounting the solenoid, bolted to the catch mechanism frame, using</p><p>one existing and one new hole, both countersunk.</p><p>4 - Plate for mounting microswitches in the doors. </p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicug_i55gC6eUFVEuT1N2DyAtNpVhhf5PFUfBuYa7_XTuMi2lGU4mJm56fQT5WiHXs1lLZFfus6sYtxJ_v-5_Ci4yvHhdIdB0agCjDKpUZpsp3WPg27Hyx87FJqQV7nO0x6IIJwFN26O0/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 5 Mechanical Components for Door Locks</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p>I used 2mm steel for the brackets and moving plates since they have to bear all the force of the door handle pusher against the catch mechanism.</p><p>For the "Z" rail and microswitch plates I used 1mm steel (actually part of the Oka</p><p>outside skin, left over from access panels cutouts).</p><p>The microswitch plates were made from aluminium.</p><p>Countersunk screws are essential for fixing the major components, to minimise protrusions which could foul the door frame or the rotating door handle pusher, particularly the 2 shown below, which can prevent the catch fixings lining up with the door frame: </p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-15-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqWWp3knL2U4l_QSdia-jqROmUNFe9pvPKmLGLA2NQ8IhPwjMh9ceAG3oA_5h6fJ9aCeIm5U3EPcZVD44SN4BQKAL6snMrhU4QnxSP8w6NI9AJHJvRXZqm-0xi6OX4lZaLH2pbkrgQ1OA/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 6 Solenoid in Position showing Screw Heads to be Ground Smooth</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p>Nyloc nuts are advisable to avoid loosening due to vibration (remembering this mechanism will difficult to get to for maintenance). Loctite could be used as well.</p><p>The manufactured components were painted with RustGuard for protection and to hide manufacturing deficiencies.</p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p></div></p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-7-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw29lHAlpU7AhqKCt_7xeeRfPNykDySA6aCYaJph95hmbnr_Lh4KEHWTQluY504TTgB5jYcqc1N9BOI_uLO8waXweYpTIQnTdBAOVXuEt2iyOyBDxQ3DZ-O8H8b2qG40_U_ocGjRCIlUI/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 7 Moving plate showing ruler for scaling.</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p>Note, this is an enlarged moving plate from those shown in Figs 1 and 2. Subsequently, I had to grind off the corners (left and right as shown in red) so it didn’t foul the door frame and window slide in operation. The area where the pusher hits can just be seen (in blue) and shows why I had to enlarge it, it was very close to the edge. </p><p><span style="color: #021968; font-size: 10pt;"><strong>Installation</strong></span></p><p>Removing the Door Lock Mechanism</p><p>To remove the door mechanism:</p><p>1) Ensure the window is wound up, remove internal door handle and window winder,</p><p>2) Remove the interior door trim (the little plastic Christmas tree fixings can be difficult to remove. A sharp pair of pliers or scissors can be used to lever them out),</p><p>3) Loosen and move the window slide nearest the door catch out of the way (see below),</p><p>4) To move the window slide, remove the 2 fixings (6mm bolt to rail inside the door and 6mm screw at the bottom of the door),</p><p>5) Turn slide through 90º exposing its flat side before moving it (there is insufficient</p><p>space to manoeuvre it in its normal orientation),</p><p>6) Twist it up horizontal and rest it on the window ledge (see picture below, you will need to reposition it frequently to check clearances). Avoid damaging the window molding in the slide,</p><p>7) Undo the 2 screws holding the internal door handle mechanism in place,</p><p>8) Click up the external "U" shaped catch plate to the fully upright (door closed) position,</p><p>9) Undo the 4 Allen headed countersunk screws holding the door catch mechanism in place,</p><p>10) The door mechanism can now be manoeuvred out through the cut-out in the door.</p><p>11) To make it easier to work on the catch mechanism, remove the circlip holding the internal door operating lever on to door catch mechanism and remove the lever (replace the circlip to avoid losing it). </p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><a href="http://s449.photobucket.com/albums/qq216/dandjr/Power%20Door%20Locks/?action=view&current=file-24.jpg"><img alt="file-24-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMlP_l0Er3TwXK0RJMgI7TWY6CJ3hat90SvI7VNCNXvZn9l2UipVMa597F0vuTWOZAP7U6FzS16iZgpcReSzb8gSYwWMvVfiJNFBcAKj2X3LsHTrsKHHI74L7L0gF8mvRmwMbpFAGPsjY/" /></a></div></p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 417px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-23-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHLmX5tIFSV05vv7tUvoXKbuBnuWkgr2XiKjwJO_F7hQmBpYXqnKrKRP6FZv9AehtJa2sOu2yz3vYm3I54jfNgxC3RgUJqA0OTSSf_7LPEmrjpdIwnfZ9PAwHo96Ho0f38n2ISAvdCpz0/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 417px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 8a and 8b, Shows Window Slides relocated to enable catch mechanism to be removed</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p>The mechanism will probably be very dirty and covered with a thick layer of grease mixed with bulldust. It should be degreased before being worked on. (Note for reassembly: a foam surround to the catch mechanism would reduce ingress of dust).</p><p>While the door mechanism is out, the external door handle can be removed, although this is not necessary for this mod. Just check that the pusher lever is securely fixed to the lock barrel.</p><p>Also the window winders are worth checking at this time for operation of the friction pads, and tighten if necessary (see photos). Both our front windows slowly slid down on rough roads then rattled and let dust in. To improve the friction, I glued a section of rubber strip on to the pads before tightening. </p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-25-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikAolj4HEVVgcAKWU_JewgSuq3LgQRPKLTkJKMcaNQ0PvNCHCYvur44QxNKyM0m66T6zU_AMAnYiEpaNmDfwuPCsqZYOF8_P0y0CYNoCNaJBEHsXKH6iv90-OEBbPPMikXpg5WC_IeCfk/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 9 Window Winder Friction Pads</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><span style="color: #021968;"><strong>Rear Door Differences</strong></span></p><p>The rear side doors are slightly different to the front cab doors.</p><p>They have no window slides but are narrower than the front doors and have restricted depth, so the "Z" rail bracket will need to be further modified to fit, but the principle remains the same.</p><p>Also the moving plate system for the cab doors didn't fit in the space available above the catch in the rear door, so a variation is required.</p><p>Instead of the plate moving <strong>down</strong> to enable opening, on the rear door it's hinged lower down so that it moves <strong>up</strong> to open. This only requires that the wiring to this solenoid be reversed, which works just fine since they are bidirectional anyway.</p><p>All door plates could be made this way if desired, but I had already done the cab doors before I discovered the rear door space problem. </p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="1__%252524%252521%252540%252521__file-16-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ydl9QuixUTxoge1yIgKYMDKHc9R6TiY0VWEkJCfPdnwRAc29Y6oWnYoSLzZQ4HgwUMooHR-b7MrFLE4kdchHeazLW5FE56HOi_d0e-NXKlSZqz6UzNIo-88jWr5pWDwDLwjOmRttb3Y/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 10 Rear Door Solenoid Mounting</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p>(Note, the end hole is not required, it was left over from an earlier version which wouldn’t fit in the rear door.)</p><p><span style="color: #021968;"><strong>Fitting and Adjusting the Solenoids</strong></span></p><p>Bolting the solenoids to their "Z" rails is easy enough if you can locate some 3mm x 35mm long screws and Nyloc nuts (Coventry Fasteners stock them).</p><p>Alternatively use 3mm or 1/8th inch tapped rod with lock nuts each end. Don't use the self tapping screws provided in the Jaycar kit, they could work loose through vibration or from the forces exerted by the solenoids.</p><p>The solenoids must point roughly in the direction of the hole in the moving plates, but it's not that critical. The 3mm holes in the moving plates are located so that they don't foul the rotating barrel lock pusher, and give the necessary movement of the plates when the solenoids operate (approx. 18mm stroke).</p><p>What is critical however, is that the solenoids and moving plates fit in the space available and don't foul the window slide or internal door lever when operating. Since each door catch pusher is slightly different in position and operating angle due to wear and assembly, even if only by a few mm, this can effect the operation of the moving plate.</p><p>Developing the solenoids fixings and moving plates for the door catch will therefore probably need several fit and adjust phases to ensure nothing fouls the door frame or window slide. I had to remake the moving plates a few times and grind edges off to ensure everything fitted.</p><p>Each door catch needs to be test fitted (including bolting the window slide back into place) and checked operationally before final installation.</p><p>I assembled and adjusted the microswitch plate as part of this test fitting, but then found it necessary to remove it so I could manoeuvre the catch mechanism and internal door lever through the opening in the door panel. I then refitted the microswitch plate when the mechanics were all OK.</p><p>Adjusting the length of the actuating rods can be time consuming and best done on the bench before the mechanism is fitted to the door. In fact the whole door system can be wired together and tested on the bench using the wiring harness provided before any fitting is started. All it requires is a 12 volt supply to the red and black wires, and the ends of the brown, black and white wires stripped so they can be touched together to simulate door switch operation.</p><p>Using the rods provided in the Jaycar kit, don't bend them yet, put them through the hole in the sliding plate, slide the brass tapped block provided on to the rod and secure with a 4mm bolt through the eye in the end of the solenoid arm.</p><p>This temporary arrangement allows the length of the rod to be adjusted on the bench before making the rod a permanent fixture. To do that, mark the exact hole centre of the solenoid arm on the rod and remove it so that a 90º bend (parallel to the plane of the moving plate to allow for movement of the striker plate) can be made in the rod at that point. Then reinsert the rod in the moving plate and poke the bent end through the eye of the solenoid arm. Hold in place with glue, tape, spire nut or other removable fixing.</p><p>The pressed steel flat nuts provided with the Jaycar kit can be used to hold the rods in place if opened out a bit and pushed on the rod. Tap a piece of rod through them first to open them out, slide them on to the rod when in position and then pinch the little tabs flat, if necessary, with long nose pliers. They hold quite tight but a dob of glue would make quite sure, but still be removable.</p><p>When in place, the rod should be tight, but loose, if you see what I mean. Tight enough so there is minimal slop as the solenoid operates, but loose enough to allow for movement of the striker plate without placing stress on the solenoid arm when the door handle is pressed. Some experimental rod bending might be needed to achieve this outcome.</p><p>As insurance against a solenoid or electrical failure causing a door to be stuck in the unlocked position (ie. can still be opened but not locked), a hole could be drilled in the side of the door frame above where the catch mechanism is bolted and in line with the moving plate.</p><p>This would enable a screwdriver or similar to be inserted to lever a stuck plate into the lock position and the key then used to unlock and relock the door. The hole should be plugged by a blanking grommet. If it is a hard fault, the system should be switched off (remove the fuse) and the key used until the fault is fixed. </p><p><span style="color: #021968;"><strong>Door Lock Electrics</strong></span></p><p>The wiring harness included with the Jaycar kit is comprehensive and long.</p><p>However, it assumes that the control box is installed first and the cables are then run out to each of the door solenoids though the body and into the doors. In practice, I found this to be back to front and impractical.</p><p>Since every car and installation will be different, it's more logical to decide on the location of the control box, fit the door units, then connect the wiring loom to the solenoids, feeding the loom through the internal space of the door, across the hinge area and working back to the control box in the body of the vehicle.</p><p>You can't do that with the harness as provided, so the wires to the doors will need to be cut near the control box connector and rejoined after feeding them from the doors and getting the lengths right.</p><p>The location for the control box needs to be near a source of +12 volts (fused, but unswitched so it's on all the time), ground (0 volts), and any internal switches. Under the dashboard to the right of the steering wheel is convenient in our Oka, and an internal lock/unlock security switch can be located nearby. If a remote control is ultimately added, its control box can be located here too.</p><p>BTW, note that the Jaycar documentation refers to +12 volts and -12 volts. They really mean 0 volts or ground in place of -12 volts. </p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-1-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm4wezVn4z8ML-QFanwxw2nkD6o5uj02DeqZlAz4EUcSjVaIP2RVKWrf-9MOZltx4__vLVrMVUiFDwcj8WlYawADmn8Jdqstg6v7TFCYq8BP7EefUMVsNXSQ3skmQXmugAyAvdwXc1rD8/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 11 Control Box mounted behind Dashboard</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p>For provision of an external switch, 3 wires (brown/white/black) can be added from the internal switch and taken to the centre console area for access to the outside of the Oka in your chosen location. The lengths of the wires are not critical and can be very long if desired so it could be fitted almost anywhere.</p><p>Feeding the wires across the bottom of the Oka doors is fairly easy, but must be low enough to avoid the window when wound down. A new 12mm hole (with a grommet) will be needed on the hinge side of the door and a corresponding hole (with a grommet) on the fixed door frame, in a position which enables the wires to make their way into the cab. This should be a few cms higher or lower than on the door to allow the cable to twist and flex as the door is opened. Where the wires run outside the body of the Oka, cover them with some plastic sleeving or spiral wrap to protect them.</p><p>The drivers door cable has 5 wires in it for the master solenoid, the other door cables comprise only 2 wires for the slave solenoids. An additional 3 wires are required to doors fitted with microswitches (except the drivers door, see below). Extra wires and the microswitches, if fitted, are not part of the Jaycar kit.</p><p>When laying out wiring, allow for additional white (Lock), brown (Unlock) and black wires to the passenger and rear door(s) for microswitch installations (see diagram below). No additional wires are required for the drivers door since the white, brown and black leads go to the master solenoid anyway. The drivers door microswitches can be connected into these existing wires.</p><p>All like coloured wires will ultimately be connected together but it's not necessary to bring them all to the control box first. Wires from the rear door can be connected to the passenger door wires in the passengers dashboard area and one set taken across to the control box. </p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><a href="http://s449.photobucket.com/albums/qq216/dandjr/Power%20Door%20Locks/?action=view&current=file-3.jpg"><img alt="file-3-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy8_SL_niw7zQaGBiWIdw6AvX4oEbspsmO4NYkwgMN1k4AhNddIO96N3HtrfwVOWBCfDvvY8-lR1ibXH4bbJiYlKaM36nCv8vuMsrS_X-F-ynRGugSwkFLz1hWc1uPH09xvvXk1B-jRmo/" /></a></div></p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 371px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-2-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi966uNeBaoEOHVWyVtuI_5UXtnIRC4eI5Mfh2Kr70BrrnVNnS5aZaj7_vYwKa2_9f_zN8YVTh7Qzb09NkwbDbFMY1_ziKI5RHy0XCI9BG48rt90DVToLeaFtyeLsP7MGpd7tDR4PYddzU/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 371px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 12a and 12b, Electrical Block Diagram and Microswitch Wiring Diagrams</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><span style="color: #021968;"><strong>Microswitch Implementation</strong></span></p><p>I fitted each door with 2 microswitches, one to unlock the system when any internal door handle is used to open a door, and one to sense that any door has been mechanically locked from inside and relock all doors. This second switch is only really necessary on the rear door, where you might want to relock all doors after reentry at night, but while I was working on them anyway, it was easy enough to put 2 in on all doors rather than have a change of mind later.</p><p>A tab was bolted to the door operating lever in the opening of the inside door panel. This pushes the actuators on the 2 microswitches as the door lever moves. See pics below (of the rear door system). </p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p></div></p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-12-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyRHW_06Z9W1xjNL3Xaki3MqiUhkqBTbhQw8DNmSB-imba1MlCutF8pxycBZFF-Bci7-m05SNDzFWhG8gr81L0paigEhduYDYfwSlt77evtuyTCa5EhKMNwGuEzTotltZWP7w7IcZuQx0/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 13 Microswitch Panel in Normal Position</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p>The microswitches were mounted on the inside of an aluminium panel bolted to the door panel. On the rear door, the door handle fixing bolts can be used to hold it.</p><p>The location of the switches requires a bit of trial and error to ensure they operate at the right time but don't get too stressed by the movement of the tab. I made the tab from a piece of plastic angle to give some flexibility when striking the microswitch actuators. Also I angled the microswitches so that there was more of a wiping action. Both of these techniques will reduce the stress on the switches. The positioning of the switch plate needs to ensure that the tab won't slip past the switch actuators at the normal extremes of movement and bending of the door operating lever. That's why the switches are on the inside of the panel. </p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p></div></p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-13-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhClGjLRlUVCDN3x85uOMUW5B-RhXAHOv6arWGZDcjjoYMlJ3EffYlgP2uwWit8Mf9FSveBkm1jcfz-xVW5LdnMnuf4_1ZN5Zw8iFHvs4de6S21EzB34IA5-Itx91SYqCpOW0Et3SMsJn0/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 14 Microswitch Panel in Unlock/Open Position, which is spring loaded</em></span></div></p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-11-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4n1Yo_TkEX5AqOsXoPWhagCOxfdlZiHVYs9HvxEGeT503kiNVaom3KMsslwKMmAL1KceQG7jw3vLeqtvD_JQvTicu6bMWwdm24XAIVwhD5ncmLxUoXjyiWzkRdZMOGUXqwzmTCHwLBuM/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 15 Microswitch Panel in Locked Position</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p>Electrically, all like switches are connected in parallel. Even if one switch is in the lock position, operating any of the other unlock switches still triggers the system, since the control box senses the negative edge of a switch signal, not it's on or off status.</td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p><span style="color: #021968;"><strong>Remote Control</strong></span></p><p>A remote control can be added to the system quite easily. I used a kit from Oatley Electronics (K203 plus K203E) receiver and two Tx7 key fob transmitters.</p><p>The receiver kit provides 4 channels (by adding the K203E components), 2 of which I used for Lock and Unlock. The other 2 will be used for Internal Lights on/off, and External Lights on/off. Alternatively, these 2 extra channels could be used for any other remote electrical switching (eg TV/Radio or Car Alarm).</p><p>The key fob has 4 buttons plus a sliding cover to protect them from accidental use. It also has a small telescopic antenna which Oatley claim increases its range to 100m plus, but is not needed for short range.</p><p>I could have used the add-on remote kit from Jaycar (LR8839) which comes already assembled and is easier to incorporate. However it only provides lock and unlock functions and I wanted a bit more flexibility.</p><p>The Oatley key fob transmitter is easy to assemble, just put the battery in and screw together. </p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p></div></p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-19-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglMctiWSpHmzfuER2sSHi2RveL4gZynaWkvbL2p9mYpH2XrVSWiCkB5q5irx9sW43oFRMHHNRcYjJYVaNwykDuB-1snxOySElCDoLUw4HS2HbUkhc3c-ijtsHyhs-6HGahv-dTQdW4VBg/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 16 Key Fob Transmitters and Receiver Board</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p>The receiver is an electronics kit which requires assembly of a printed circuit board and is a bit more complex. I left out several components which are unnecessary for triggering the door lock system but which would be required for powering other electrical equipments. I can provide additional info on the receiver assembly if needed.</p><p>The circuit board will require mounting inside the vehicle near to the control box. It requires +12v and ground, and 2 outputs (I used “A" for Lock and “B" for Unlock) must be connected to the White and Brown control box wires. I mounted it under the centre dashboard area. The 6 inch antenna wire can just dangle somewhere.</p><p>I fitted a small piezo buzzer to the “Lock" output so it beeps when the “A" button is pressed to indicate the doors are being locked. I figured unlocking the doors was pretty self-evident anyway, but it could be connected to the unlock function too via a couple of diodes. The receiver could also be used for flashing the lights or beeping the horn to indicate that it has done its job. This would require the additional components (relays mostly) that I left out of the receiver construction.</p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p></div></p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-18-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGyU0FEf-86UrqWeMKZKTbsreZ18hz77vEf93IrYCuxW18VVWMHRnA1XxGyYnvBaFWavp_TcisKag6DYRShvVeGsioql7E35jMgOnA8EAhuesFzfnqSCW1cSI39HykQfVSQx13H8gRn0Y/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 17 Receiver Circuit Board.</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p>The area under the buzzer is where the additional 2 channel components will fit when I get around to them.</p><p><strong>Note 1</strong>: The key fob transmitter and receiver can be encoded to provide security so they will not respond to other systems encoded differently. You can choose from thousands of codes, implemented via wire links. Sketchy details are in the kit or on the Oatley website. The system will also operate perfectly well unencoded but with less security. See encoding areas in the photos below. The receiver and both key fobs must be encoded exactly the same and this will require a fine soldering iron, thin wire and a steady hand. </p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p></div></p><p><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><a href="http://s449.photobucket.com/albums/qq216/dandjr/Power%20Door%20Locks/?action=view&current=file-21.jpg"><img alt="file-21-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF13korFepDPQL_qx3DUCoZnFGZ1eJJ9swcl0B4YqjdgYAH9UVF7Q_2GTi5KXPsWpnHr9eIbKC4T4O2F3iO3-hwWGWXsnDG1lSzdYNSvT1sisHD4gwSjuQNEpvnqsNUxsLViBjsAmK2r8/" /></a></div></p><p><table><tbody></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><img alt="file-20-2006-04-13-08-51.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSY-7z5N2QoCgw95wCVfhhcppyNZNVljId_QPPJN-D-kAM-LqnrdBBJvqj51dzPMZG7HyeS8CYp38Y5cK4D6JePvePlwvWcimimVXovcnZQrNq84b9oIBRMgBTad7m3IrEzj8V-eRlf8s/" /></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="border-bottom: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-right: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); border-top: 0px solid rgb(0,0,0); margin: 0px,0px,0px,0px; padding: 0px,0px,0px,0px; width: 400px;"><div style="text-align: left;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em>Figure 18a and 18b, Encoding Connection Areas on receiver and Transmitter circuits.</em></span></div></p><p></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p>Both must be wired the same.</p><p><strong>Note 2</strong>: the K203 receiver kit is based on a small PIC microprocessor which decodes the transmitter signals and provides a timed momentary or latched output signals. It therefore has the potential to be reprogrammed to perform other functions (such as a longer timer or flasher or personal alarm) using a PIC programmer.</p><p><span style="color: #021968;"><strong>Potential Problems and Fixes</strong></span></p><p><strong>Shock and Vibration</strong></p><p>Since the solenoids are not energised all the time, only when moving the plate up or down, I was concerned initially that vibration from the moving vehicle could rattle the moving plates down from their locked to unlocked position. However, that is the fail-safe position anyway, normally one wouldn't travel with doors locked. When the moving plates are up in their locked position, the vehicle will generally not be moving so this problem won't arise.</p><p>Contrary to this however, in practice, the action of the pusher on the moving plate initially caused the plate to work upwards to the lock position, after 30-40 presses due to the leaning action of the catch plate when pushed, and the proximity of the pusher to the edge of the moving plate. This is not a fatal flaw, just a bit annoying.</p><p>This was fixed by remaking the plates slightly larger so the pusher was further away from the edge of the plate, tightening the lock nut further and then putting on a separate nut locked up tight against the lock nut to keep it tight. Even Nyloc nuts can work loose it seems when used to lock a rotating screw.</p><p>With the rear door mechanism being reversed there is an outside chance of the moving plate working down to the locked position while on the move, but it is only the rear door, and the mechanical door mechanism will still work anyway.</p><p>Experimenting with tightening the bolts holding the moving plates suggests that they can be bolted up quite tight, if well greased, so they can rotate but not drop down, and the solenoids are still powerful enough to operate them.</p><p><strong>Getting Locked Out</strong></p><p>After fitting this mod, it's still technically possible to lock yourself out of the Oka, but you'd need to plan ahead. You would have to lock the doors electrically, leave or put all the keys and remotes in the vehicle, get out and shut all the doors, This will lock you out, since the door locks are always keyed in their locked position for the system to work.</p><p>That's why you need a hidden, external lock/unlock switch, which should be tested regularly so it will work if and when needed. This switch should be a marine grade, 2 way momentary action switch to survive the elements and can be wired in parallel with the microswitch connections, since it does the same job. It needs to be momentary action in both directions so it does not interfere with normal microswitch operation. Dick Smith P7658 and P7689 (very small) switches would work but both need protection, maybe mounted in a small plastic box. At a more professional level, Carling Technologies manufacture an array of marine switches, available from Amelec Australia in Perth, <strong><a href="http://www.amelec.com.au./">www.amelec.com.au.</a></strong></p><p><strong>Note 1</strong>: if the switch ever fails, just whip the white or brown connections off the back (one of them will unlock depending on how it's wired) and short to the black wire or to the chassis, or just short the terminals of the switch with a piece of metal. (You can't use a key since you locked them inside).</p><p>The switch should be mounted in a hidden but protected area so that access is possible to the rear wiring. An alternative (or addition) would be a miniature reed switch mounted inside the windscreen or window. This can be activated through the glass from outside by a small magnet carried on the key ring or stored outside the Oka somewhere, and would avoid the need for an external switch. Keep the magnet away from wallets or purses however, or it might zap your credit cards.</p><p><strong>Note 2</strong>: it has always been possible to lock yourself out of an Oka even without this system installed. You would have to lock all the doors with the key while they are open, put all the keys inside the vehicle and then shut all the doors. So all this implementation does is to give you an alternative method of locking yourself out!</p><p><strong>Stuck Plates</strong></p><p>In the event of a stuck plate or solenoid/electrical failure, the door trim would have to be removed so that the offending plate can be manually shifted to the unlock position. The system should also be disabled (removing the fuse is the easiest way) until the problem can be rectified. Normal operation using the key is then possible.</p><p>If felt necessary, a hole could be drilled in end of the door frame so that a screwdriver could be inserted to shift a stuck plate. The door trim would then not have to be removed.</p><p>Other photos or info on the implementation are available to anyone who wants to do</p><p>this mod. Contact me at <strong><a href="mailto:dandjribbans@internode.on.net">dandjribbans at internode dot on dot net</a></strong></p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-52518122865363779902014-11-08T08:32:00.005+10:302015-11-18T06:43:19.529+10:30Adelaide to Halls Creek<p><strong>20th July 2014</strong></p><p>We are finally on our way. It took a lot of last minute stress and commotion but we finally got our stuff packed and mostly operational and left home just before lunch.</p><p>After a lot of upgrades to the mechanics of the Oka over the past 3 months, to meet the challenges of a desert crossing, we left with some trepidation. Had I done it right? Were there bolts left loose waiting for their moment to cause maximum trouble?</p><p>In the past 2 months, I’d:</p><p> Replaced the front differential for an automatic locking type,</p><p> Removed the rear axle (which took a lot longer to do than to say) to replace the rear differential with a Limited Slip Diff.</p><p>We’d got bogged last year partly though not having any locking differentials and we weren’t going to allow that to happen again, were we?</p><p>I also:</p><p> Replaced the rear gate hinge pins which were wearing thin,</p><p> Replaced the rear brake cylinders, pads and seals,</p><p> Replaced the font axle oil seals which are always leaking,</p><p> Replaced the transfer case rear oil seal which was also leaking.</p><p> Replaced our laptop computer with a new Macbook Air which of course needed setting up as a navigational system for our moving map system,</p><p> Had most of the A/C system pipework repaired or replaced as it stopped working last year,</p><p> Had a replacement windscreen fitted (under warranty) after last year’s version cracked massively though no fault of ours and ended up looking like crazy paving.</p><p>The reason I did all this upgrade work is that we are meeting up with some friends in Halls Creek in WA to attempt a crossing of the Great Sandy Desert from Fitzroy Crossing to 80 Mile Beach via old mining tracks, where they exit, or making or own way over the intervening sections where they don’t, not something you’d want to attempt alone.</p><p>Our prime objective is to reach Dragon Tree Soak in the centre of the desert (and return safely to earth of course).</p><p>We did a lot of pre-planning and have track info and map plots of people who had done this before but that won’t make the challenges any less, well, challenging.</p><p>So yesterday we reached Port Wakefield before our late lunch, all of 80km up the track. By late afternoon we’d reached Mambray Creek, 40km south of Port Augusta, a “No Camping” rest area we have camped in several times before.</p><p><strong>21 July</strong></p><p>Not surprisingly, we slept for about 10 hours, but a hot breakfast and even hotter shower rejuvenated us for the next leg of our journey, a shopping trip into Port Augusta.</p><p>After buying up 190 L of Woolies best diesel, we carried on up the track towards Alice Springs without realising that the rear gate with the spare wheel on it wasn’t properly closed and locked. My fault for not checking adequately and a few km up the track, flashing lights from a following vehicle alerted me to the problem, the rear gate had opened and was swinging wildly about with 100kg of wheel and other items attached to it.</p><p>We stopped ASAP as you would, and fortunately nothing was damaged except my pride and the safety strap I’d put on to prevent the gate from opening too far. That had snapped but presumably absorbed some of the kinetic energy of the swinging gate.</p><p>Relieved and mollified, we were soon on our way again. We also discovered minor leaks from the rear fuel tank and the main water tank, both of which will have to be fixed once their contents have dropped. Not serious, just annoying.</p><p>After the freezing last few days in Adelaide, the warm sun which appeared in a clear blue sky this afternoon was positively burning hot and we had to use the sun visors and opened the vents. Not quite A/C weather yet but a welcome change.</p><p>We stopped at Glendambo Roadhouse to post a birthday card to Diane for her forthcoming birthday which is promised to arrive by the one after. We should have posted it in Port Augusta.</p><p>After a long 450km drive today we are camped in the centre of the Woomera Restricted Area, just south of the 30º 30’ parallel.</p><p>We made contact with Dave and Pauline on the radio, who are at Cape Keraudren on the mid coast of WA, heading up to Broome. We haven’t made contact with Deano and Kaye yet who were in the Katherine area when last we heard from them.</p><p><strong>22 July</strong></p><p>Very clear still night with full on starscapes, I wish I had set up my camera on its tripod, and learned where the manual exposure controls were, other than the “Auto” mode.</p><p>Added items to our TWSF (Things We Still Forgot) list: my soldering iron, without which I can’t fix the LED lights which are continuing to fail on a regular basis, and a small frying pan for fried eggs. Ah well, the bright lights of Coober Pedy or Alice are still ahead. However I did buy a replacement for my iPad charger cable (which is also at home) in PA. It’s a nice dark pink Belkin one which nicely matches the gaudy pink protective iPad cover that someone other than me chose.</p><p>Today on our 480km travels we bypassed Coober Pedy except for a comfort stop, bypassed Cadney Park except to check the fan due to the engine overheating and then bypassed Marla completely without stopping (which is presumably what bypassing actually means).</p><p>We also came across another overturned 4WD with the roof crushed in. It had recently happened but emergency services were present and a tow truck came roaring down the road towards the site. Not for the first time have we seen 4WD’s overturned on this road, and sadly it’s the most common form of accident on outback roads and tracks, with speed and inattention being the main cause. A sad end to someone’s holiday with their belongings scattered over the roadside.</p><p>We are camped tonight at what I thought was the Chandler Rest Area but it’s not signed thus, so presumably that’s still before us. No matter, this is perfectly adequate for an overnight stop. I am manfully attempting to lighten the vehicle load for the forthcoming desert crossing by reducing our wine stocks as quickly as possible.</p><p>“Problèmes du jour”:</p><p>1) Overheating of the engine, not a serious problem right now but it will be when the temperatures rise and we have the A/C on.</p><p>The problem is that the viscous hub in the fan unit is not “viscousing” anymore and doesn’t lock the fan to its pulley when the engine gets hot. So I’m investigating ways of coupling the fan pulley to the viscous hub so they are permanently locked together. Ideas vary from brackets to tie the fixing their bolts together, wiring or roping the fan blades to the pulley or welding the whole bloody lot together.</p><p>Idea #1 is probably the best one, but in a 3 way radio hook up with Dave and Deano, Deano suggested looking at the spiral spring on the front (if it’s the original Oka type) and tightening it half a turn. A task for tomorrow when it’s light again and the fan is cool enough to actually touch. (Dave and Pauline were at Shelamar Station south of Broome and Deano and Kaye were in Kununurra).</p><p>2) The 9m whip antenna refused to function. But how can a piece of straight wire refuse to function? It was due to corrosion inside the connector on the end of the coax cable so I replaced both ends with new connectors (after a frustrating half hour searching for where I stored the crimping tool) and we are back on the air.</p><p><strong>23 July</strong></p><p>Rained gently on and off most of the night but quite warm, although no aardvarks were seen (just testing my spell checker).</p><p>Up early, bacon and eggs for breakfast, but without the bacon, and all before 7am. That’s what happens when you have no TV to watch and retire at 9pm.</p><p>The next 3 hours were taken up fitting straps to the viscous fan to lock the fan pulley to the fan hub. 20 minutes was used constructing the straps from some steel strips found on a discarded Westinghouse oven, and the remainder of the 3 hours was taken up reinstalling the fan and getting the 4 sodding fixing bolts to line up. Par for the course I think.</p><p>First I removed the fan unit and replaced 2 of the studs with long bolts so I had something to fix the straps on to on the pulley side:</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/jb9Kan8rFhD3lWp6OhAK69MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink">Viscous Hub</a></p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/jb9Kan8rFhD3lWp6OhAK69MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="576" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TUYbh1xPrvE/U-vt3RmzDAI/AAAAAAAAMrc/l3gBf10XvV4/s800/IMG_5356-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG" width="769" /></a></p><p>Then I fashioned some straps from steel strips recovered from an abandoned Westinghouse oven (and while doing so, found a novel way of securing my vice to a solid surface):</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5360-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit685TSft1jkcF3IpmaEi3Zp9WFlZoYU-Z9_BF5L0dpDhTmwZsJO8rkps6-Ak0sZQ4DRg1e_jUBWMfu9bInMPpuL5DIWKikpFJXa9UJlFjC7R5ej4vPGDvDxRZXMl2VNRWngEyyWXeLsU/" /></span></p><p>These were then attached between the fan pulley and the fan unit, locking them together, one on either side to maintain the balance. The straps are angled so the pulley “pulls” the fan around without any twisting, which, after all, isn’t that what a pull-ey is supposed to do?</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5364-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinDgaNOW1DkxDij_00tBNCV602WG3LSK7jVoUPjwjMZ8iftzqjuXtVq2c8A3SJvIlAx4kunQwrs_lKG4L9mZB2B_O71SEGFZtdpMJORlbzY7sO3qVj0xUyfHf7kv3YH2id6z9AQShi514/" /></span></p><p>The fan unit installed, after 300km in operation:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5380-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDsud7UQ6xRnqf6IQBairEo9Ss8IJSonWgEHduowuCiCHXO-FjWrnNhGMYoj0TwJib5OEJUfsmPRdRh9x4AYDZy_5itWGnFnFQ0ek7XLqjhglf01B_OfjgwuNUjwIx4UH8XqFZtH_2bS4/" /></span></p><p>It works fairly well and drops the maximum temperature by 5º, but it can still be improved further with longer fan blades which actually fit the cowling properly and a fully working viscous fan hub to save power. It got quite hot this afternoon (27º) with a near cloudless sky, so we had the A/C on most of the day and the temperature remained within an acceptable range (ie, not boiling).</p><p>While I was working, a large road train passed by carrying another large road train:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5357-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZxgYfuHc7heqch34VzAt7y0k5pgCDUC4Dy0MVvotaS3jFw5QnxDPttrdrbaIy0JiZT9gxFZ1f9_T3CWVJB7zxpUlc_ZUgS_Mp5eURM0znZ80JGUTt_VIG6QFJJpie22P2bbCiBI-10FA/" /></span></p><p>Had lunch at the SA/NT border and cruised through very scenic countryside to our campsite in the Owen Springs Reserve abut 60km south of Alice Springs where I had a couple of leaks to fix.</p><p>The Owen Springs Reserve was a former cattle station bought by the NT government in 2002 and opened as a free bush camping and 4WD tour destination close to the Alice. We are camped near the Redbank Waterhole which looks very pretty with ducks and mozzies and small flying creatures in abundance. And it is getting warmer.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5375-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDb8Xya9twa6vUIhxJ1HWUMOIQ1vgkjk_DP6qPRjzROMCzQRU9ub1JzCTRANt3ZY7TXfDTJBo3vK8umQEMkdmiTFnUd8R2Cc0L-fu-RY9SpvCRTOIDut-Ul159EBW_6e2-7_1RItAkXfI/" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5372-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcojBAixyAFCdIUdrVcYmBG2HK6DBvlQz1o3yGCimbQrxfkBmINJ6NCG4C9xb4RN4_MfZnAuc57jWMxTpVfiaelWSgZrf8zs7fQmNIYGtakdvohWJTgQNFMvnVbyGunx5NzXCTlKehe0I/" /></span></p><p>Shopping, “laundry-ing” and resupplying in the Alice tomorrow and then we set off NW up the 1100km Tanami Track to Halls Creek, a route we haven’t traversed since blowing out a tyre up there on our Disco in 2002.</p><p>But first I had to fix a couple of significant leaks, one on the rear fuel tank where the filler adaptor pulled away from the side of the tank:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5377-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit3eVB6-Blf_QapAyos_1wka8mIgGMaFPen0kmDIneIyJ7h8LGeuGOcVNRSfchkYTUwwO5rrEYZTa6z6EBwKbHvsq9mY5gehae9-jIpOuD-A-mrezpOs5XJzOLMwYeD-IaXcq_rwXUPsM/" /></span></p><p>And another on a crack the side of our stainless steel main water tank:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5376-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivhzlVsElyxhXTo09Ww7lVdWp441twyBrXwxsTRl8zWQMn_AKw1d9OixCMIYsQGGJnS0StDM_3j-zKOxvo2Sn2Y7hoZv6gOL984fz5_-f6HC6NP9Y4EM_GXJ-4S9wA9gIJWG5CQvs0t_g/" /></span></p><p>More epoxy liquid steel to be added tomorrow morning and we can try a test fill of both tanks (we do have several other tanks so all our <em>œufs</em> are never all in one <em>panier</em>).</p><p>1469km done since leaving home (without refuelling) with 65km to go to Alice and then 1100km to Halls Creek, a total of 2634km to get to the <em>start</em> of our desert crossing.</p><p><strong>24 July</strong></p><p><span style="font-size: 23pt;"><em>Happy Birthday Diane</em></span>, hope you enjoy your day and any events planned to commemorate your milestone.</p><p>Owen Springs where we camped last night is quite a picturesque location and well worthy of further exploration when next we past this way.</p><p>The 65km into Alice Springs seemed a lot longer than it actually was but everything was very familiar to us when we got there since we’ve been there many times before (about 9).</p><p>We quickly located the Woolies supermarket which satisfied most of our culinary needs. The Home Hardware and K-Mart stores met all the others, except for the Town Library which met the comfort stop requirements since there are very few public loos in the Alice due to certain groups of people who appear unable to treat them well.</p><p>By mid afternoon, fuelled and watered up with 220l of diesel and 150l of water (both tanks fixings seem to holding), we headed north for the Tanami Track. This road north first takes us to the highest point on the Stuart Highway, around 732m. There is a plaque and monument to this point which tells you everything you need to know about the Stuart Highway except, that is, exactly how high the highest point actually is, we have to use our GPS to estimate it.</p><p>The first 100km or so of the Tanami Track are very scenic but particularly annoying since it has only a single strip of bitumen down the centre, and to pass another vehicle, both have to put 2 wheels on the gravel, showering each other with small rocks unless you both slow down. When one doesn’t, a chipped windscreen is the result and I hope we won’t have yet another cracked windscreen as a result. I guess we should be grateful because even this thin strip of bitumen will end soon and then we’ll be on to a gravel /sandy track for the remaining 1000km.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5383-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqHCXBhv9BpotaoWUSZ8CqkTpKcFVX_w5jXVtUXAsZ_Z1lzP654QggtmQkA5MKHbvsrwh4KX_PMKze4T0rtVwFDnzyZoQlsY4YC62ZM1D_2jvr9URuT9mR2U4PuLxO70sJvHQL3_jXttU/" /></span></p><p>Threatening and dramatic scenery on the Tanami Track, but it was actually very warm and we had the air conditioning on all afternoon:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5381-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC-mMcVYEbcSfVhVBVIImPajTDXyow8QBW-xvcVByHiiPyrmDv1Ymi6465t4KfxfJwopZofhcv3mv0a_jaSul-RaQ-kyngbFoQOEJReW1OL3HevrqyOG0Y3IqWHUn0TQ6-XdraV-kmUX0/" /></span></p><p>Somewhere along the track today, about 39km ago, we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn with no fanfare or signs and we are now camped at the Mt Chappie Rest Area about 120km NW of the Alice. Only done 220km today but we did spend 3 or 4 hours doing our “laundry-ing” and resupplying, one of the rare occasions when we actually achieved everything on our shopping list.</p><p><strong>25 July</strong></p><p>I was awoken very early when J went outside for a comfort stop and I thought I heard her softly calling me from the darkness, as if she was being attacked and abducted by some nefarious persons and somehow wanted my involvement in the process. I rushed out of bed but fortunately it must have been the breeze in the spinifex and the last thing she actually wanted was me assisting in her endeavours. You’d think she’d show a little gratitude?</p><p>Later when making breakfast this morning, I first got the all stuff out that I needed, but then I thought “is there a word for things you have to do before the first thing you do?” There ought to be, but this line of thinking could take some time.</p><p>It was and still is a hot blue sky day and I’m sitting at the table in the back of an Oka with a nice cup of tea (wine will follow) and the cooling fan blowing straight in my face.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5422-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy8lCsEMGxbmENd_OqZFuBOtb7TWn3PNJGjaA5dCH6sRsESx0U6SScLGCagJEv9q9orsXE2dRSfueQLZrO8uAgnQB9ymbU-tclz1Y65d-7PLTnUoDBFMnCaPJK7vz6_UEYYRhT1ySZWMc/" /></span></p><p>The track however wasn’t quite up to the same standard. It started well enough with the single strip of bitumen, which became variously sandy corrugations or a full on 2 lane highway.</p><p>It never used to look like this (but sadly it’s only like this for only 20-30km, but why a small section of hifgway in the middle of an otherwise sandy track?):</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5386-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM5fN6eyYhD21Ss2Ycx5xI_oL0ojtprX74Q1TZvKrK_gmP1h2ouhyWHAJWalaZWzX57L-tpAazxFZdnko7chyLq4fcy0-0aqIf4O9RzU2uyU-otJ4tVKK3Q6qzoKtcY4ILtoRy0nK8-BQ/" /></span></p><p>We did come across one strange sight blocking the track, what could it be?</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5393-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjRRbzs1K112tyHjujEVIJwj-cjCTcODLYEUQi_hPNgUCCLbt5Omr6DxAcJdV3Jz0LYNFTl0cWAw4WBaldXl5JoAaeqtJIEjj8eZziUebRoP_rKq7k_9DDIpZHuyGQrYY4s0YcIKWiprY/" /></span></p><p>The answer was a couple of huge mining truck trays being transported to the Granite Goldmine. Why they were blocking the whole track is a mystery, they were moving at about 0.2 kph, and yet one was overtaking the other.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5397-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJIPGyQKGRilUefl7U-d5uKWhd9-F2X3kwze96QSNZoiTMzGRHOR4NnG9l17HHC8i9PM6Y2LsykTYyKPASP_sySLW_nmSXQi7G-idf2lkgnz7WoSaLQ6r9vIsZTFqQZQXan3STCusiwXc/" /></span></p><p>Eventually all of the above morphed into a very corrugated gravel track which made going very difficult, slow and/or noisy. Various nuts and bolts came loose but fortunately nothing serious.</p><p>And we did a few of touristy things along the way:</p><p>Ant mounds:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5387-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBao89zS4B3PNJ-WDWeFKAcMBTaLsIhYqJGHeg4dKhTI75eSUKJLaMBIOjtguB3uUAALJZ81zQMrVHpgnlqpual6bVc898EPkjkW2WHKnTzPF-eKvr5frjZdld-3IWWvswyQsOthH87q8/" /></span></p><p>Some windmills:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5391-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqqGvbeHyNrz978K6BFh-U2KNanp34UstsR4-1Mu_d_XCts_vAseq70EwLrieRxrnVT2PmxbL1dA0fi-VZ8yLqfMNK_97w8ZRCO8RTyOGPDqX4qyJdelQ_fSXPFmxN6y9JYLMbCMNXc9M/" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5392-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtrjfSl_PjWA0SwMHMKBPocoYu27hS0bfg79N-FMwVWxiwYagsWbN3MRdZWgnSgaemRfrFE-tafZc-JONFy8QP3MdxThtntEsWgSzgkB0rs_EGXEz-57oKAO7gNnj4djul2PEW_xlo2qs/" /></span></p><p>Some termite mounds:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5405-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiDlh8_n_1OxqJgRpy3jzbkUiZYSj4KWeNLvs4iv1LaCiI0qasHppGtfqWf9JbBPJiQGoqX2XLcxlmnYuk9FsrDSs1t8gYwsJ6LgKQeT9Gka6wLCaTBFKb9qU74vJ9Iw9TnSWjP5uY0lc/" /></span></p><p>A prickly bush:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5408-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjwX_z8ysgsB77EUsu7JSz59qUPG8_6dUCi1Mu031CWbw03Fj9P38lV97Jz1C43L_AbSXoucHJMJ9al3Xo10ne1Qn-KU6UDMMpWczl0J_rSZuRng_ozzghCv-pzpZivQhjBWPZp55S8wk/" /></span></p><p>A Cork Bark tree:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5411-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM1lVgRPcyq242PJaa_CWQ9vNkU6K_i_7hQqJgT_FcBVdckOw4MICfeYvSxNlhkMg6ZM-aMDLVRq9HG5DOjDv8CfnvvePuK4Os9rMjgGUOynYckxIU9Dk6rueuJ7rxtZPtQ4VFCmNU4A0/" /></span></p><p>A small lizard:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5413-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6kJRs_2hHPl0UhzPu8w0FOZgCrgGjBD9msRLZ6hONYvCHN2cG4vqhFAt06K9Dd5esjWlN2zgU26B-ED5Kp1_AlDzwEnpbe8nIPwz4nta2Y3hW49MapTZ3XjJiG9L-SRYRtEHNAZBj3S8/" /></span></p><p>Holly Grevillea (this plant/small tree is very pretty but was to become our major floral hazard during the later desert crossing):</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5417-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik5s5-Yb8FmwhZf2G8h1LvertJYp2JrBIl0TL-_1d26SuqoAsAMl6Ky5P-rDJNGFlpgbwXhFuprB62Hvz-GB6_r2bXSVQFm0uGyi4dOPzWuaYNK5L-5uDcpX1AcwE9oFcFwW7m_U5iK_g/" /></span></p><p>And a camel (they were also to become a pest later on):</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5419-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO05740u1QC60ZufqRX8Itcp1djHy_I5Lpc-3Nae7Om9akCeNsog3IXh5tPWvBzTyqhmZec5x5IfTeKs3n7Fhn6dYrNZr2EtY7F9kbcJz8lloMwC3on_ZyHwEbl-IS_K_VJkLySe_0XyM/" /></span></p><p>Despite the corrugated conditions we did manage 390 interesting km today with the A/C on, and we’re currently in almost the middle of the Tanami Track, 550 km to Halls Creek or 550km back to Alice Springs.</p><p>Our exotic dinner tonight is a quiche, but without the pastry, cooked in a camp oven and served with sweet and normal potatoes.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5423-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWjziSr4y31bdUWLcdtNONqeiaYQpc_ROwHkdg0me2XthP_HX0POChV9QC3Xnx3J6K7bKfrGmWXeVxNO-Y26l-1t_v3GXm3sdNXNXEkUCxAuxYhlC3xngYJ-rmygec_ij5zoa65baW2Rg/" /></span></p><p>Janet got a bit hot slaving away in the kitchen so I used a tie wrap to tie back her hair.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5420-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVWXYeROPo5Aa2-69WjOYIofATaMoVccFVUaJDkJDWOXpZKO9xitwSRIzMAEXStX-JbiWQVKtnQ50sVck69lh7o84fTCYP3ZYPbcb9xuoR59wlKB1WItU5rOW_JwjNXT0A9uY5DqKo0Bk/" /></span></p><p>A road train rolled past the setting sun:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5424-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAbZxRnIeReOFHLe7Q2KLZvLbbRR595U6FRmQUzQcgPoWCtDLsEwrJwmP-db6b2LdCb13ydC5_MGTLZ2BIdo7H9YQgPbaB_jBtMwus4r8sJkxhzc46jlgpGUyH8fAq2_A0JVNQN-hPcVY/" /></span></p><p>And we had a nice Tanami Desert sunset:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5425-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7jUvq3XpcI4pQRQPqgH_Z6Snicvh5jRA8KhwsDYiOcI8OJfyZ3cgrGhiO48yRPstu5S6pYfWgi5cedTMDHjWrkg8YqoAxtkUFAxkuo63vBXrqCk3B3mKy8G8GB1BMSK4gYymHW5l6HKw/" /></span></p><p><strong>26 July</strong></p><p>It was exactly a year ago that we got bogged on the Hunt Oil Road in the Gibson Desert and had to dig ourselves out, it was the main reasons we fitted diff lockers this year, so now we can go much further before having to dig ourselves out.</p><p>A beautiful flat desert sunrise greeted us this morning right outside the kitchen window.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5442-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3KqP-1xseSQ5USAEpkhGCMeLvQ6FPaGBV7dLNDwIdRhPLVea4cTeVTcSfspZ4C4GQmvRczbwn4NJi4nn-Y8OKYSde4dawfwmxV1sqpH_4p2Mu4snzNGuO_cojWPg35umYHjZO3t3W52g/" /></span></p><p>Today we completed the Tanami Track to Wolfe Creek about 120km from the township of Halls Creek, which is close enough for practical purposes. We’ve been driving almost non stop for 6 days and covered 2400km.</p><p>Todays travels included more corrugated track:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5446-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1ZfPF8bDIPxdjxW12N41jPjnvNLgoEEd7D_lqKJL0NyBYRu2kplxPSwVu-y6JKf95OYKb3Xifq6FqdQNY3cJNFc1k4wOcWI4T6rJbAr60T_oo0aQ6AtHvVyHLgNZ6X_uYbIDkaTu-V6I/" /></span></p><p>The Granites Gold mine, (this is as close as you can get):</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5450-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0gvOD7WjXpIMah7HU7MtzFzZTiUp05-gn24Q3f_cRyr73_yPt_r1boI2QDRhA21a34nyxqz2LhL6ZcbwAekPAgTlOFFjnSgqITbEybswOFlGfQfCQqgj_cTd_Gb_Eu3X6IDiNi5L70sw/" /></span></p><p>The place where we collected a small termite mound for our garden in 2002. Janet thought it woeful that in 42 years of marriage we had only ever collected one termite mound:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5454-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoSdTE8YC3NTv5fD9D-Dgtga8dUCrNjF1MtWhsLE7YEzK6O3wI0ItxSvAZIytNW1aGHNr8-6wV7KWDnP-IiPfOraq6stTrcnajQeb-jtNrxXzLBwounWamRZGg-MKkpsFOKqBI5bhLkF8/" /></span></p><p>The exact spot where in 2002 we blew out a tyre on our LandRover.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="1__2524252125402521__IMG_5445-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOKrBNQPEM5JdTq9Pi0_qaXj09l3TtKUZawmZhLalukSugv1hhQUM5ZSDpyJLgTPUniNSPFbq0AU3qGXB1lcgL-8asZEGOcII57zEvVzDdLY4KB7KDB1tHtzpik8BDBo8IrInf1FERNPE/" /></span></p><p>And the top of the Canning Stock Route that we went down in 2007. If you go far enough south it comes out in Willuna, 1900km and 1200 sand dunes later, not a track for the feint hearted.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5469-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGHa-Ta5qF4dPp2oZlgh2Hf3PLrNk5Redi3PjjYL0fZouQNXnbemmz6kSw8lkVILykTuEfqWFRDY_j_IRPLDMejtGazA5TLvoHRT3KuXwWK8kNvNHFgsuyWhd12yYSgeM649sPqBi0DsM/" /></span></p><p>The WA/NT Conundrum.</p><p>We had lunch at the border between WA and the NT surrounded by “Welcome to WA and NT signs”.</p><p>However on the map as this GPS plot shows, the border is actually 2 1/2 km west of this point:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="ScreenShot2014-07-26at1.02.09pm-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-10-7-07-58.png" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3iuS1pKbFmevDIbucidsuI1zMfe3E8V684VPK71fDZp4qiOdS7b8E2PerzQ-UcFgNpOrKH7NXHYFc5HfQay3MeJirJOlCGbLITtjuR2ApHwwzFKqt2X0Goexhs6oqNS1MPw1XBOyLDDE/" /></span></p><p>The GPS can’t be wrong and if the maps were not properly calibrated all our other positions would be wrong too, which they aren’t, I tried several different maps. So our only explanations are that either the maps are drawn with the border in the wrong place, which is unlikely, or all the signs have been put up in the wrong place. But something is definitely wrong..</p><p>We made contact with Dave on the radio who is visiting friends on Jubillee Station near Fitzroy Crossing. Tomorrow we’ll meet up with Deano and Kaye in Halls Creek and together we’ll meet up with Dave and Pauline on Tuesday for our attempted crossing of the Great Sandy Desert.</p><p>Some of the tracks do or did exist, some we’ll have to construct but others have done it before and we are collectively sensible, experienced and well equipped travellers so we will know when to backtrack or change our plans as necessary.</p><p>That completes the first part of our 2014 journey but you can follow the other sections of our 2014 trek here:</p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/northern-highway-to-mclarty-hills.html?utm_source=BP_recent">Northern Highway to the McLarty Hills</a></p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/exploring-mclarty-hills.html">Exploring the McLarty Hills</a></p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/mclarty-hills-to-desert-tree-soak.html">McLarty Hills to the Dragon Tree Soak</a></p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/dragon-tree-soak-to-anna-plains-track.html">Dragon Tree Soak to the Anna Plains Track</a></p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/broome-across-to-darwin.html">Broome to Darwin</a></p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/09/outback-trek-2014-darwin-to-home.html">Darwin to Adelaide</a></p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-69288966304254573922014-11-07T15:06:00.012+10:302015-11-18T06:53:50.392+10:30Exploring the McLarty Hills<p><strong>4 Aug</strong></p><p>We only achieved 8.8 km today, partly due to a blowout of Dave’s rear left tyre and partly since it wasn’t far to the today’s destination, the McLarty Hills, but it still took most of the day.</p><p><strong>Dave’s Missing Tyre</strong></p><p>Dave noticed his Oka was leaning a bit ascending a sand dune (which is not unusual on this terrain) and when he investigated, the rear left tyre was missing completely. He’d been driving on the wheel rim after the tyre had rolled off rim and was left 30m behind his Oka.</p><p><strong>One tyre track, one rim track:</strong></p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qVA1wkimO3gcY5dHr0TdYtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0zeMSWlRnBw/VDds7_iDJEI/AAAAAAAAO48/cEW7RWRup8Q/s800/Onetyretrack%252Conerimtrack-2014-07-21-19-03.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a></p><p><strong>Where’s the ****ing tyre??</strong></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5697-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GyF6d1cDP1M/VDDaNlNZS2I/AAAAAAAAOhM/kCd6H4-XESA/IMG_5697-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>Secret mens business as Dave does things under the Oka. Actually the tarp is to keep the wind blown sand out of his face while he manipulates jacks under the axle:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5704-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uFWHsicyosg/VDDaSxy6DHI/AAAAAAAAOh8/XMSL-cr-Wgo/IMG_5704-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>After a hot and laborious exercise the wheel was replaced, but the expensive but totally destroyed tyre had to be abandoned in the Great Sandy Desert, sadly there was no hope of repair to the ruptured sidewall.</p><p>We left the tyre leaning against a Desert Walnut tree (<a href="http://florabase.dpaw.wa.gov.au/browse/profile/4518">Owenia reticulata</a>), which are iconic desert trees found all over the Great Sandy Desert area:</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7wtqFQT89CvLQhFzKnrqetMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3VmSWaWR70I/VD8v0TdrIgI/AAAAAAAAO9o/jcXshlgQDmA/s640/IMG_5709.JPG" width="640" /></a></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5710-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zCQNBVMNzyI/VDDZIhfSObI/AAAAAAAAOXc/5tQQazqIY8Q/IMG_5710-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><strong>The McLarty Hills</strong></p><p>After forging a track through the scrub we reached and explored the Mclarty Hills, scene of some historical events:</p><p><ul style="list-style-type: disc;"></p><p><li>Tom Gray, a policeman who was hunting down a murderer in the 1930’s, and</li></p><p><li>Mick Driscoll, (who Dave knew), who was searching for Lassiter’s Golden Reef in the 1960’s.</li></p><p></ul></p><p>Both of these men travelled in this area and left their names etched somewhere in a rock face in the McLarty Hills. It would be a daunting task to find them in such a remote place with only scant location information to go on. Previous expeditions had tried to find them and failed, but we gave it a try.</p><p>Below is an 11 minute video of us “forging the track” towards the McLarty Hills on the 4th Aug. after turning off a known cut line. </p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="301" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/108093302?byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="600"></iframe></p><p>It was a fairly easy task but at 8:20 into the video I hit a small termite mound (or some such solid object) hidden in the spinifex (you can hear a loud bang). Luckily no damage was done but it’s one of the risks in “forging tracks”.</p><p>This is good example of a hidden obstacle, a small but very hard termite mound hidden behind a spinifex clump:</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/OadajgF4Xzc-_L63mNc9fNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="533" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MoKthrAGZoY/VEH5EwZirWI/AAAAAAAAO-0/_wOWVxhbNsI/s800/DSC_0353s.jpg" width="800" /></a></p><p>At this point we were pretty remote from help, more than 250km in a direct line (and 6 days travel) from any nearby community (Sandfire, Broome or Fitzroy Crossing), so a major breakdown here would at a minimum be very inconvenient but could be a major setback, resulting in the towing of a defunct Oka several hundred difficult kms to the nearest highway.</p><p>However, we did log in on our HF radio every night giving the base operator our exact coordinates so they would know where to start looking if we ever broke down or disappeared. It has happened, 2 members of the original Calvert Expedition disappeared in this area in the 1890’s and their remains were only located 6 months later.</p><p><strong>The Rock Engravings</strong></p><p>Somewhere up in these hills we hoped we could locate some historical names engraved in the rocks. Our only information was that they were thought to be in this range somewhere:</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/phbG3KFDFt4ixmF7BXFKOtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="239" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1V5Uxj6Fueo/VEH8kVafFFI/AAAAAAAAO_A/-953kkyshV4/s800/IMG_5712-5714_2.jpg" width="800" /></a></p><p>We clambered up and around the rocks for a couple of hours with cameras and binoculars but failed to find what we were looking for, which didn’t really surprise us given the area to be covered. However we did find a few interesting Aboriginal artworks in the caves.</p><p>An emu foot print and a coolamon or possibly a shield:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5729-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRROHsaCMCSrqybptGcsm4YV0eAAz6zR4gT8tkXf9VzG4YY7N4IgVBdBEJcOIWgV1HOjEHOcDhN1UCPJOU50UVG0UcJX2TvLXUsBWNThWoKJYg9u1fx4cvD32oD6SIHJJg4_CZnHLj_Kjl/" /></span></p><p>This a fish drawing in an area devoid of large bodies of water:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5737-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dKv3bgvF_Vs/VDDZ808Xj8I/AAAAAAAAOek/mu2RRXx2G68/IMG_5737-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>Possibly a map showing the links between water holes?</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5730-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-i4ae2PcRMk0/VDDZh8O88yI/AAAAAAAAOas/aSwlHSq2w3w/IMG_5730-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5736-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b2CBdFHSdG8/VDDZwtiA0CI/AAAAAAAAOc0/9vFKNvkzHKU/IMG_5736-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5720-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ads_HdGNSbA/VDDZU4ae2PI/AAAAAAAAOZM/egJlIinicWI/IMG_5720-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>We made camp at the foot of the McLarty Hills in one of the most remote areas of the country we have been to. There are no tracks in this part of the world, we had to make our own:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5744-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oeOmJfTgNRE/VDDZ12IaN0I/AAAAAAAAOdk/lOEFZfMyF2U/IMG_5744-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>There are a few other small hills scattered around the McLarty Range which is spread over around 100 sq km of desert:</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/iI1EFCzsNplYmOsdf0_X5NMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="263" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HzZbaxKXijs/VEHyI538f5I/AAAAAAAAO-c/BSHs9sShLrw/s800/IMG_5739-5740.jpg" width="800" /></a></p><p>Here’s a 360º view from the top of the McLarty Hills:</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="450" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/108476716" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="600"></iframe></p><p><strong>5 Aug</strong></p><p>This morning we checked our free wheeling hub screws in advance of setting off again. Dean’s were loose and Dave’s slightly loose, mine were OK because I’d had this problem before and fitted a retention device after a complete hub fell off on a previous trek, leaving us without 4WD.</p><p>Very cool breezy morning so we had bacon and eggs inside for breakfast (we found some bacon hidden in the back of the freezer) with toast and marmalade, even china cups for our tea. Despite our very remote location, we certainly don’t rough it on our travels, we do eat rather well wherever we might be.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5767-2014-07-21-19-03.JPG" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-72eKTDzIp7w/VDcE08P4XpI/AAAAAAAAO4Y/hcKGzlkGZkw/IMG_5767-2014-07-21-19-03.JPG" /></span></p><p>Later, before we moved on, we went for a final halfhearted attempt to look for the engraved rocks but inwardly resigned to failure, when suddenly, eagle-eyed Kaye spotted them when everyone else didn’t.</p><p>The engravings were lower down and a lot smaller than we had been expecting, only a few cm tall, but still surprisingly distinct considering how long ago they had been made (78 and 48 years ago respectively). Dave was rapt that “we” had found them when others hadn’t:</p><p><em>T Gray 15 January 1936:</em></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5784-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-McM2BhJ0eLU/VDDaVc0REyI/AAAAAAAAOiU/NcQY_FiqlR8/IMG_5784-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><em>M Driscoll 1966 (July).</em> Dave knew Mick Driscoll before he sadly passed away.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5783-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Nq1ucBi4BnM/VDDZtn3K5wI/AAAAAAAAOcU/xFpqDPBLASo/IMG_5783-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>Dave looking justifiably proud that we’d located the rock signatures, something he had been planning and hoping to do for many years:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5782-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q3DjBiVaHHM/VDDZe_PiSNI/AAAAAAAAOaU/fvZUHyvCeJ8/IMG_5782-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5779-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uSO0Y6xzMmY/VDcQmt3RDwI/AAAAAAAAO4o/gNlZAUZ1jxQ/IMG_5779-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>Having successfully achieved one of our major objectives (but with a little bit of good fortune, because the engravings were very small inscriptions in a very large desert), and with hopes raised high once again, we left the McLarty Hills and headed west between sand dunes towards the Dragon Tree Soak in a convoy of Okas. See “<a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/mclarty-hills-to-desert-tree-soak.html">Mclarty Hills to Dragon Tree Soak</a>”.</p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-65635156973253273222014-11-07T12:07:00.021+10:302016-03-02T10:43:00.891+10:30Anna Plains Track to the Sandfire Roadhouse on the Coastal Highway<strong>The Anna Plains Track.</strong><br />
<strong><br /></strong>
The APT turned out to be more difficult than expected and was not going to give in easily, it took us another 3 days and 200km to reach the NW Coastal Highway near Sandfire Roadhouse.<br />
<br />
<strong>10 Aug (</strong>Would have been my mum’s 103rd birthday today).<br />
<br />
The first 2 days were very slow going and we only managed 37 km today.<br />
<br />
We passed by a small gravel scrape filled with water. I didn’t have to go up the hill but I fetched a pail of water, but only to wash the windscreens with, it would not have been good enough to drink. Even after boiling, surface water is almost always contaminated by animal droppings.<br />
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5938-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5sUSIjm5kl0/VDDZ-1eSc4I/AAAAAAAAOe8/wGOwfzWoWFw/IMG_5938-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span><br />
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Here are the footprints of a large camel as he (or she) shuffled his (or her) feet to make a neat arrangement of droppings.<br />
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5953Cameldroppingsandfootprints-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggmnZHhbVh_MbQT1kMZl9fZYumf9-d7Xapiyiqm6lsP6KdbOauyFRZQsVRqCmYs_zPEs27Ez2WDWM3-It5EySMdJzhsIOJBXgDEKSgVSbnwg6-bPDurJrvv9NRM09rkOh7Fe8iWZemKdA/" /></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
The going was getting slightly easier but there were still very difficult sections requiring significant deviations from the track and knocking down small trees up to 3 cm thick where they became impenetrable.<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/vLVzug16UhJsYgumMXLVIdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="397" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-e25Dbd0Ifcc/VDjBx53-_cI/AAAAAAAAO6c/MxEILApNXeA/s800/Screen%2520Shot%25202014-10-11%2520at%25203.57.11%2520pm.png" width="800" /></a><br />
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This deviation was needed around a seemingly straight and easy track section where we were confronted by a major thicket of Grevillia bushes and had to back up a few hundred meters and retreat to the slopes of a nearby sand dune where the bushes had thinned out.<br />
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There was no evidence of a major obstruction on the most recent Google Earth image:<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Uj_Nwa7PkoyZ4_CJ6sXErNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXKYL3zd-FagPAWOngPyTx-ioz-jAUrSPx6ZECBFUYAofJ30f0H4XtyVX_qj86zd7oxvzf14j8aOT5WQWuY_pofTQnHngh9yrt78HBpxcWfTm6gzP_LLrrrsLemTuSvJRLcjN8TtBGT1JP/s800/Screen%2520Shot%25202014-10-11%2520at%25204.16.53%2520pm.png" width="641" /></a><br />
<br />
Burnt Holly Grevillea are the worst to push though, their black, stiff and scratchy branches tear at the outside of the Okas and their sharp hard roots are potentially very dangerous to tyres. Green living bushes, spinifex and trees were fairly easy to run over and polished the bottom of the Okas removing all oil drips, dirt, grime, wires, pipes and anything not securely bolted on or made of steel.<br />
<br />
The most difficult terrain was irregular clumps of spinifex or tussock grass which covered the ground whenever we had to deviate around impenetrable thickets of small trees and often hid small termite mounds. They caused the Okas to bounce and roll alarmingly at even low speeds and put a tremendous strain on springs and suspension components, not to mention cupboards doors.<br />
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5981-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRPwKJldQYeVgXoRSumz5fY9QG0OYD7Hk4yegfGPKcx431nzWNKmo73nIGps9v9a_F2dkw0q7ZapLXdA4DBPgCNi0jlxC-H9PzfoU7PTZMJJlDQjeWLZUGeVMQw6mclVP9Lg_EEMeWRPLq/" /></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
At the campsite that night, the full moon rose pink in the east just as the red sun was setting in the west. Spectacular, but we couldn’t work out how to get both in the one photo.<br />
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5957Fullmooninthedesert-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-dAgzQzMuA-4/VDDZOLbRSOI/AAAAAAAAOYM/O6AvolhPnJg/IMG_5957Fullmooninthedesert-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5959-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sunh0-uenS4/VDDaE8qzdjI/AAAAAAAAOf8/7EJZXdtdqjY/IMG_5959-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
Except with a bit of trick photography:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/r2TSWlcsUTGUtBPVa_L1ftMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="346" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-P95iOPjbka8/VDhYiDFUIiI/AAAAAAAAO6E/ynCd9jsmQGo/s800/IMG_5957-5960.jpg" width="800" /></a><br />
<br />
We were approaching the end of our desert crossing now and achieved 57km today. So for our final campsite on the track, Kaye cooked a superb roast lamb for all of us which we had with mint sauce. <br />
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Us enjoying Kaye’s roast lamb and mint sauce. We might have been running low on fuel and water, but we certainly had plenty of good food and wine left:<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5YUtG8FBZOui1pE_zZMLaNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="518" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_7LG9ffUXus/VDpJqA40lPI/AAAAAAAAO8U/I0jz184m1ns/s800/DSC_1015-1016.jpg" width="785" /></a><br />
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And I made a contemporary minimalist arrangement for our dinner table centrepiece tonight, of spinifex flowers in an empty Flashlube bottle:<br />
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5968-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-T38uEKsaE6A/VDDZ1L2Hv8I/AAAAAAAAOdc/nB1psKREFwo/IMG_5968-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
At the campsite that night bread was cooked on the campfire with mixed results. This one was fine…<br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/C6EKYwGvVeAckX7K5-EtW9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="384" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eyLjCqpRyEk/VDDZmPCjI2I/AAAAAAAAObg/kAlf2jwGp9w/s800/IMG_5932-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" width="512" /></a><br />
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<strong>11 Aug</strong><br />
<strong><br /></strong>
Nice sunrise this morning for those up early enough (before 6am):<br />
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5969-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rRjHp4NkYO8/VDDZccPuGnI/AAAAAAAAOaM/AcPCVAu99EA/IMG_5969-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
A brightly camouflaged moth had taken up residence in our kitchen.<br />
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5970Mothinthekitchen-Version2-2014-07-21-19-03.JPG" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wdrE17uvPB8/VDFHgWKTomI/AAAAAAAAOkk/pgwsfVq687I/IMG_5970Mothinthekitchen-Version2-2014-07-21-19-03.JPG" /></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
Compare if you will with the same moth (a <em>Spirana</em> <em>Revolvens</em>) spreadeagled and pinned behind a glass case in the MAGNT (Museum and Art Gallery of the NT) in Darwin a few weeks later:<br />
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_6547_1-2014-07-21-19-03.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b9G7Yz6tyK4/VDDZLSDhIuI/AAAAAAAAOX0/z4s2Z7-kmyI/IMG_6547_1-2014-07-21-19-03.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
Eventually the going did get a bit easier as we headed west and we managed 133 km today to reached the NW Coastal Highway.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5975-2014-07-21-19-03.JPG" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhjSHDiVLMdKojxMX9hzy9ovIDprltNbxkCIuM1Q-4RP11825TxbSDJotAgH1Rscdo_TbWsy6WTdPx0F8GWsaMOOsRY1s6YLUEHOzCBYAwOl6yYA4E6MDEFKynd5u51RKpe0JJay709WK2/" /></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
Finally the end of the desert track and into pastoral country, but we still had another 60km to go to the highway.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5983Theendofthetrek-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KDcd_Oqp_GY/VDDaDiTOPtI/AAAAAAAAOfs/JrswuU5jAts/IMG_5983Theendofthetrek-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/aSgaO-T96f7ttjzNhyoh6tMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="533" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iOXDQlkLeCk/VDpJqjg-rQI/AAAAAAAAO8Y/jBxo5nvzNv8/s800/DSC_1052as.jpg" width="800" /></a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5984-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lIR97Z5jiyE/VDDaESzc2LI/AAAAAAAAOf0/F4cLE_yW4i0/IMG_5984-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
Fortunately, track conditions improved somewhat as we approached the highway and all Okas made it with a bit of fuel to spare, in our case we were down to our last 10-15 litres after setting off with 300 litres. To do this we drained one tank and transferred it to the other side rather than have 2 tanks with only a few litres each. We had used over 95% of our fuel which was cutting things a bit fine.<br />
<br />
So with water and fuel tanks bordering on empty and only 1 useable spare tyre left between us, we arrived at Sandfire Roadhouse late in the afternoon, rather keen to locate their showers, washing machines and somewhere to eat. We had plenty of food left but after such a long arduous trek we just couldn’t be buggered to cook.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5992-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YsF48PxGYxU/VDDZvF6bprI/AAAAAAAAOck/Y683dD79xnY/IMG_5992-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
After the essentials were done we ate out at the roadhouse “restaurant” and had rather a good dinner with wine to wash it down.<br />
<br />
However the work wasn’t quite done, Dave still had to arrange for 2 new tyres to be freighted up from Perth, which took a bit of organising seeing as we were around 2000km north of Perth.<br />
Several phone calls later and he had tracked some down and they would be on the next available truck. That gave us a day or so to wait so we took a lay day at Sandfire and did a lot of maintenance and repair.<br />
<br />
<strong>12 Aug</strong><br />
<strong><br /></strong>
The lay day at Sandfire wasn’t as lazy as it could have been, there were tyres to fit and swap around, greasing to be done, various repairs to be completed as we all still had a very long way to go.<br />
<br />
And we took time to reflect on where we had been and what we had achieved.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq" style="text-align: center;">
<b>We had covered 700km of mostly trackless desert, but those 700km had taken 13 days, during which time we had met no one else, the 1969 Apollo 11 Moon Mission didn't take that long (only 9 days) and they didn't meet anyone else either.</b></blockquote>
We had covered 700km of desert since leaving the highway near Fitzroy Crossing and reaching the coastal highway near Sandfire. Our average distance per day was only 48km at less than 10kph which was a lot slower than expected and made worse by the rocketing fuel consumption which averaged more than twice the normal rate, and was often higher.<br />
<br />
We also only found 2 sources of water in this distance so some frugality was necessary. Next time we will learn from this experience.<br />
<br />
But we had successfully achieved our 2 main objectives and were subsequently cheered(?) by the news that another similar expedition using smaller, nimbler 4WD vehicles had suffered even worse tyre problems than we did.<br />
<br />
We had suffered no major mechanical failures and after a tough desert crossing, all three Okas arrived at their home paddocks many thousands of km further on, and spread across the country, with no subsequent problems. Our Okas had proved once again their strength and endurance, plus our travels had been in the relative comfort and security of larger vehicles.<br />
<br />
That evening we ate out again for the last supper in our best attire (comparatively).<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5993-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pZ1ew6UVyHA/VDDaQZHCjZI/AAAAAAAAOhs/Z5KmdAXlb-I/IMG_5993-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5996-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x_f2FYHeqwM/VDDadzrA2wI/AAAAAAAAOjU/zkD_cY16cCM/IMG_5996-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span>
<strong>13 Aug</strong><br />
<strong><br /></strong>
In mid morning we sadly said our good-byes to Dave, Pauline, Deano and Kaye at Sandfire to await the arrival of the new tyres, fuelled up with just enough expensive fuel to get to Broome and headed up the highway into a fierce headwind.<br />
<br />
We camped at the Goldwire Rest Area near Barn Hill and had a quiet evening, the first for more than 2 weeks.<br />
<br />
Thus we had successfully completed a crossing of the Great Sandy Desert, definitely our most difficult trek yet and one that not many people have done [we were aware of only 4 or 5 similar small expeditions in recent years], but our 2014 journey did not start or end here, and other sections of our 2014 outback adventures can be seen here:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/adelaide-to-halls-creek.html">Adelaide to Halls Creek</a><br />
<a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/broome-across-to-darwin.html">Broome to Darwin</a><br />
<a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/09/outback-trek-2014-darwin-to-home.html">Darwin to Adelaide</a>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-69252442672577614172014-11-07T12:05:00.036+10:302015-11-18T06:53:50.388+10:30Dragon Tree Soak to the Anna Plains Track<p><strong>South to the Anna Plains Track.</strong></p><p>The route south was nominally following a old cut line but that petered out quickly or became overgrown and it was easier for us to make our own way over the sand dunes following the rough direction of the cut line. It was tough and slow going as we had to recce most sand dunes on foot first first to ensure a) that we could get over them and b) that the steeper southern side wasn’t too steep or blocked by vegetation. The southern side was often steeper than the approach side and covered in different foliage. With no previous wheel tracks to follow, we also had to beware of potential soft patches which could have caused a roll over.</p><p>With only the benefit of ground based topographical assessments, on the 7th we did 21.4km but on the 8th we managed 24.8km. It was very slow going over spinifex clumps and pushing through thickets of small but sharp shrubs.</p><p><strong>Heading towards another dune:</strong></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5879-2014-07-21-19-03.JPG" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-bU31ifseX0I/VDD1NiiONKI/AAAAAAAAOj8/dvTUJrIyW84/IMG_5879-2014-07-21-19-03.JPG" /></span></p><p>But over the top, the swale between sand dunes had almost park-like qualities with tall, white barked trees in a grassland environment. Hard to believe were in a very remote desert location.</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/hYE983mJYvtl6bdHgE4RNNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMNmrFlM__P1rhKaSjdLzK0gOHnelGjguzxJ6YIUKO_sjqiLWNltVYRqpnaFbQmDSyzL9fH_gOd0mQSiLx7jVyRE_GI0GRyU8MqYVtAg8WIgozaTApJEt6vI-Hag0w_0TRQYZU99518pfI/s800/IMG_5874-5876-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" width="800" /></a></p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/mTsOJNJltEC_nCj4fvLZetMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="352" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3oHvvjhcMIk/VEWGb4spbsI/AAAAAAAAO_0/3eUW2PnHGc8/s800/IMG_5874%2520-%2520Version%25202.JPG" width="800" /></a></p><p>Compared with a swale on the next day which was more desert-like spinifex and small shrubs. It’s as if each swale has it’s own micro climate and plant community.</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TOz247EFHiy1wBeNMgypotMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="314" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Pdv5JuFzLdE/VDD1RAzLDBI/AAAAAAAAOkI/lylERMy3X5M/s800/IMG_5911-5913-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" width="800" /></a></p><p>Sometimes we could make out a former exploration cut line which helped with navigation and sometimes made progress a bit easier but mostly they were overgrown after 30 years of non-use. </p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5889-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KuDYTRnPJKk/VDDZG7-OuCI/AAAAAAAAOXU/jylY0n-6Bv0/IMG_5889-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>Occasionally we came across survey markers from a bygone age.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5933-2014-07-21-19-03.JPG" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--1_Qp0pDUk0/VDD1KzSyFmI/AAAAAAAAOj0/YEHsKXUMDAY/IMG_5933-2014-07-21-19-03.JPG" /></span></p><p><strong>Deano powering over a sand dune:</strong></p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="450" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/108030331?byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="600"></iframe></p><p><em><strong>An alternate approach?</strong></em></p><p><em>About that time, an idea was forming in my mind. Seeing the terrain from ground level or even the top of a sand dune can be difficult and deceptive. What we needed was a local form of Google Earth, but in real time and closer to the ground. Like a quadcopter drone with a live TV camera fitted underneath and Wi-Fi connection to a display on the ground.</em></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="61x8yJcesfL._SL1500_-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u3Hl8jQzhgw/VDKlewIx8iI/AAAAAAAAOnE/yevx1Jw1jC0/61x8yJcesfL._SL1500_-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><em>Such devices are becoming common place in search and rescue situations and for surveillance requirements. Serious devices are becoming affordable (less than $1000) and for our next outback trip I’ll look into the practicalities of such a system, like <a href="http://bestquadcopterkits.com/dji-phantom-2-vision/">this one</a>. It would have saved us a lot of time and energy by being able to see the lie of the land from within our Okas: assessing potential routes over sand dunes or around thickets of vegetation, and locating potential campsites.</em></p><p><strong>A near disaster:</strong></p><p>On the morning of the 7th, one member of the group set off on foot, alone and unnoticed, to locate a route over the next sand dune, but he became disoriented which is very easy to do in thick scrub. His distant calls could be heard and he could hear us but couldn’t easily determine the direction of our calls, so the remainder of the team set off towards his calls, keeping in contact but not knowing if he was OK or injured.</p><p>After 10 minutes of worrisome scrambling though the scrub we located him safe and well, but feeling a bit abashed that he hadn’t taken a hand-held CB with him. It was a salutary lesson for all of us, not to roam too far from the camp alone or without a reliable means of communication.</p><p><strong>Cork Bark trees in flower:</strong></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5898-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qvmqBqTRzRs/VDDZjR6ShkI/AAAAAAAAOa8/V2vGaqZdJfw/IMG_5898-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><strong>Oka 148 on the top of a sand dune:</strong></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5887-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vElW3fO_Fv0/VDDZlVsfPxI/AAAAAAAAObU/Er68O_D8DPg/IMG_5887-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>Sharp, hard branches and roots like these were often hidden in the small bushes and spinifex to attract the unwary. The flag on the top of our sand flag subsequently got torn off in heavy going.</p><p><strong>A couple of Okas about to pounce on an unsuspecting sand dune:</strong></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5897-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WvjzaimpIWo/VDDZuT8iuKI/AAAAAAAAOcc/ltOJJCivHlI/IMG_5897-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>But first Dave had to remove a small but prominently positioned tree from our path. Most we simply pushed over but some, like this, one had thick sharp roots on our chosen route with the potential to damage our already reducing tyre stocks:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5885Daveremovingasmalltreeinourpath-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-82LdG1Bhy7k/VDDaPqoVUhI/AAAAAAAAOhk/4qMRtAkzjzg/IMG_5885Daveremovingasmalltreeinourpath-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><strong>Dave crossing a heavily vegetated sand dune:</strong></p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="450" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/108472517?byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="600"></iframe></p><p><strong>Us descending a sand dune:</strong></p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/t4Mm99CNyGg0cmWI0mjxsdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="536" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mGMhhV4glbM/VDpJk94HVjI/AAAAAAAAO7g/3T-zLq_AViw/s800/DSC_0581.jpg" width="800" /></a><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/cBCqw6-IM067YnjD6VOx8NMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="533" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-P0hqMss7U4E/VDpJmvVZ-9I/AAAAAAAAO7w/UZ8DBluJqA4/s800/DSC_0659a.jpg" width="800" /></a></p><p>Most of our tyre troubles stemmed from small sharp pencils of dry timber which penetrated the tread of the tyre and went unnoticed until it was flat and running on the rim, destroying the sidewall.</p><p>Between us we had 5 tyres which were staked and separated from the rims, one of which we found before the sidewall was damaged and could be plugged, but 4 where the sidewalls were destroyed, including one which came off the rim completely. Many smaller stakes were noticed in the treads and removed before they could cause any damage.</p><p>Punctures it would seem, only happen in the most difficult locations, in soft sand, or on spinifex and on the sunny side of the vehicle. It required hot heavy team work to safely lift an Oka in soft sandy conditions to change wheels. First we had to clear a large area of spinifex and bushes around the wheel before we could start work. Then the jacks would sink into the sand without large base plates, and holes dug under wheels would quickly fill in with dry sand or undermine the jacks. However the benefit of having 3 similar vehicles certainly paid off in terms of experience and equipment, for various jobs we collectively used 2 hydraulic jacks, 2 high lift jacks, 2 hub lifters, axle stands, various jacking blocks and a screw jack.</p><p>We had one flat tyre which had broken the seal but fortunately it hadn’t come off the wheel and we were able to plug the leak with 2 plugs and reseat the tyre on the rim. But I still had to replace the wheel subsequently in Broome as the plugs worked loose.</p><p>This was our flat tyre, fortunately it hadn't run off the rim:</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/OP7SGTZ9ZGEzcdWSzRi6-tMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="536" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t5MJee7jgV8/VFwdDA0GFVI/AAAAAAAAPQ4/giHvYA5UgTs/s800/DSC_0859.jpg" width="800" /></a></p><p>Janet holding the <i>parasol</i> while we plugged the tyre:</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/NYkdpumYvFZuuPI0iP-okdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="536" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FURCv61vIQ4/VFwdCEM2tTI/AAAAAAAAPQw/iKmJF3cvU0Q/s800/DSC_0862.jpg" width="800" /></a></p><p>Later I also found this stake in the rear right tyre, fortunately it was in diagonally and hadn’t penetrated the cords:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5895-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ou_iz2zpGAQ/VDDZVkVP1iI/AAAAAAAAOZU/w2D0Y1oXBkM/IMG_5895-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>Progress had been slower than anticipated and was starting to cause concerns over fuel consumption which dropped to less than 2km per litre at times as we pushed though soft sandy terrain and over around 40 sand dunes in low ratio second gear for most of the day. If things became critical we made tentative plans for one vehicle to proceed with sufficient fuel to make it to Sandfire, and then return with enough fuel for the remaining Okas.</p><p>Some sand dunes became very soft after the first vehicle had crossed them and broken though the surface sand and needed a second attempt:</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="450" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/108472973?byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="600"></iframe></p><p>Our route today was nominally on an existing dead straight cut line but you can see from this track plot, our actual track was far from straight as we had to circumnavigate overgrown sections and difficult sand dunes.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-21at12.21.20pm-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9dVDMPc97sI/VDJCuYUJVzI/AAAAAAAAOm0/4iyDOudlfO8/ScreenShot2014-09-21at12.21.20pm-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p><strong>A typical desert campsite:</strong></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5900-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPDvBZNRDP_6s2bizvVaCmgD2JuQlrnRcQrDm5zfdjfWIRePOI1iArIzcYBB6WBaJIP5JvXD4el1pIDmeFtuDefEuhKI4y7I64hwo2l0K7PYOOEFMfQOXmfciguHbwbHGcqe_AOm9m5L0/" /></span></p><p>Shade provided by an Oka for the late afternoon and a campfire for when it cooled down. We collected firewood when we could and cleared the spinifex and scrub to make things a bit more comfortable.</p><p><strong>9 Aug</strong></p><p>During the night, clouds rolled in making a spectacular sunrise, but as I pointed out at the time, “they’re only bloody photons”. But they were very attractive photons.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5904-5905-2014-07-21-17-33.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbEc7NdixVeyR8sLs4CgqkFJTyMYXoQTZhHM1QVkyiX0wwbmMF1ASRnxl2LDcWoQ4GrPh8yHDybJOH7q12wuvBspCb8MH7C2d-SZf-4PGR5yIEx6Tc0KI52Xl1t1XwTxF1EGUiRcU6dLA/" width="800"/></span></p><p><strong>Reaching the Anna Plains Track</strong></p><p>Today, only 4km from our campsite but over around a dozen sand dunes, we completed the southward trek from the Dragon Tree Soak to the Anna Plains Track (APT) after making our own way over 50 or more sand dunes in 3 days.</p><p>In fact we ran straight across the APT without noticing it due to a mix up in the number of sand dunes we had actually crossed, you can clearly see our wheel tracks in this photo crossing the APT:</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lViG57UOO5BSG6DLbdNrc_SLfVcaqfzhkg2EGcMSDKI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_cSQhdUjqZA/VFxrZZV7qtI/AAAAAAAAPSA/TcKOOOOG_n0/s800/IMG_5916.JPG" height="442" width="800" /></a>.</p><p>How did we miss something so obvious and anticipated? Well, from our GPS mapping system we knew we were very close to the APT (within 10 metres or so), but we were focused on finding the least difficult route forward rather than looking sideways, and in my defence, some dunes were double or triple headers so a bit of confusion over numbers was not unexpected.</p><p>Anyway <em><strong> it was me</strong></em> who actually found the track, and this is it, Janet standing on the real Anna Plains Track. In this area the track looked in quite good condition, if only it had remained this good we would have been laughing…</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8IevxlbhmPogxqryyasEU_SLfVcaqfzhkg2EGcMSDKI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z1gPTeM1lSc/VFxrVqBpmkI/AAAAAAAAPR4/d_401hqr6AE/s800/IMG_5915.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a></p><p>Dean and Kaye were following last today and as the rest of us were getting mixed up over the location of the APT, they sat on top of the last sand dune watching the confusion.</p><p>Then the CB crackled and Dean said he could see an old Land Rover through his binoculars to the right of us, up the track a bit. Well “a bit” turned out to be about 400m but sure enough, near the APT junction were the remains of a old Land Rover and trailer. They belonged to a couple of prospectors and were burnt out in a spinifex fire in 2007. Fortunately the occupants recovered their sat phone as they escaped so they were able to call for help and were rescued by helicopter.</p><p>Vehicles broken down or stranded in remote areas normally have no realistic chance of recovery and abandoned vehicles are very quickly stripped of anything useful. But in this very remote location with no more than a handful of visitors a <i>decade</i>, the vehicle remains are still left pretty much as they were 8 years ago.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5918-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zXMouiykNHI/VDDZklDrGmI/AAAAAAAAObM/H7VYFVlkFkc/IMG_5918-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5922-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F8yhQ0lA9Ug/VDDZ0tiWmnI/AAAAAAAAOdU/_mL9PVz7PMs/IMG_5922-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5924-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3QynEtpqmjw/VDDaZqkCHDI/AAAAAAAAOi0/tpFzdzd9Viw/IMG_5924-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>We drove around the world in a Land Rover a bit like this:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5929-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDnzuYsUFVe0BIjqNO23eaJ_5cldM1GmCR3iRHKIl0XfmzC9JYodzPxT9HSyMHpUgwLI0Q8qBA0dHfYP8fsUasJ7qJjlMKQyX5v3ZUOEOY6rW0CD9kFU1CltVH5kRTxS2A-4t1bviIoJI/" /></span></p><p>A small lizard, probably a Ridged Tail Monitor, had taken up residence in the radiator:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5927-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JJ9oVyLZQg8/VDDZCzTOjlI/AAAAAAAAOW8/FSzdfYFL060/IMG_5927-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>Internet photos of a <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://www.vmsherp.com/ImagePages/Past/Ackie.htm">Ridge-Tail Monitor</a></span> for reference:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="Ackie-2014-07-21-19-03-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPvUyY9u7QVzvZDql4Q0feo1Jx6Sgup9CKn6eohYIhWiKG0-VsYfT1yvKo1_TuxFzzIjA4JpOv1JI08cF__CtID53snM1ts0JOB0kEeEut1TOUg8QnGPKM-2YHmlPkn-qXsEUexx1_okkF/" /></span></p><p>Sadly, our early optimism from the condition of the Anna Plains Track in this area didn’t last and it was not going to give in easily, it took us another 200km and 3 days of difficult driving to reach the NW Coastal Highway near Sandfire Roadhouse. See “<a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/anna-plains-track-to-sandfire-roadhouse.html">Anna Plains Track to Sandfire Roadhouse</a>”.</p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-77401423280603113282014-11-07T12:02:00.017+10:302015-11-18T06:53:50.401+10:30McLarty Hills to the Dragon Tree Soak<p><strong>West towards the Dragon Tree Soak</strong></p><p>Heading west from the McLarty Hills towards the Dragon Tree Soak there are no established tracks and we thought that traveling between and parallel to the sand dunes might be easier, but we were wrong. There was a lot more vegetation in the swales and travelling was often a lot easier up nearer the dune slopes:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="ScreenShot2014-10-09at5.59.04pm-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--ApJF7Ji6nE/VDY6QxE6qzI/AAAAAAAAO3s/TwsMbQz0XL0/ScreenShot2014-10-09at5.59.04pm-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>The terrain between the sand dunes was anything but flat, as this video shows as we try to follow Deano’s wheel tracks:</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="450" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/108445186?byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="600"></iframe></p><p>The springs and suspension got a real work out on this section and quite a few small trees and bushes had to be pushed out of the way:</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="450" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/108446364?byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="600"></iframe></p><p><strong>A Convoy of Okas:</strong></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5803-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hst07vW4cwk/VDDaO-HbDAI/AAAAAAAAOhc/-G7i3UnzRrE/s800/IMG_5803-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" width="800"/></span></p><p>We weren’t usually that close together in a convoy, we were often a km or more apart, sometimes trying different routes and communicating via CB radio, but we tried to remain in visible range, just in case…</p><p>That evening we made a superb garden campsite by clearing all the spinifex off a square between the Okas in a slight sheltered depression in a sand dune.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5811-2014-07-21-19-03.JPG" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pVyzMzB04wA/VDaK00Kv9FI/AAAAAAAAO34/tcA8DnHC7PA/s800/IMG_5811-2014-07-21-19-03.JPG" /></span></p><p>We called it the <em>Milk Powder</em> campsite since the rough ride this afternoon had shaken a cupboard door open and a container of milk powder (that someone other than me had failed to secure the top of) had fallen out and spread itself liberally over the floor of the Oka. </p><p>Kaye cooked a superb silverside beef in the camp oven for all of us to share, with a committee of other cooks contributing the veggies and gravy, very nice. We even had chocolate cake and custard for afters.</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Zgrea0wDJtFYeayWlDijeNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="536" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_2TKG3-8Ijw/VEJoDlGTAyI/AAAAAAAAO_Q/oxIUSA-Zxag/s800/DSC_0687a.jpg" width="800" /></a></p><p>Later, after a few ales and celebratory glasses of wine around a roaring campfire, over a discussion of “trucks we have owned”, Dave reckoned his Kenworth A/C system wasn’t worth “2 knobs of goat shit”. Hadn’t heard that expression before but the meaning was plain enough.</p><p>The moon was shining brightly by the time we had polished off the port but it started waxing soon after. (Waxing, shining, polished? Get it?)</p><p><strong>6 Aug</strong></p><p>The same camp site in the bright glare of the morning sun, after all the silly puns had gone away:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5816-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cI0Mn9vlUYs/VDDZhK8hasI/AAAAAAAAOak/qbQbS6Tmq0E/s800/IMG_5816-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" width="800"/></span></p><p>We left our “superb” garden campsite and turned south towards the Dragon Tree Soak. It was only 25km but took all morning to navigate the sandy and overgrown terrain.</p><p>We traversed several sand dunes but only after walking up and holding a conference on the crests to determine the best approach:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5828-2014-07-21-19-03.JPG" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hP6W0rf1e7M/VDaWTLRUOPI/AAAAAAAAO4I/5BoBuGT4xrg/s800/IMG_5828-2014-07-21-19-03.JPG" /></span></p><p>The decision is made:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5821-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aNRTwyrR_qw/VDDaXf1Ct_I/AAAAAAAAOic/rPUhqTWS628/s800/IMG_5821-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" width="800"/></span></p><p>Dave crossing the sand dune fairly easily once we’d decided on the best approach:</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="450" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/108468636?byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="600"></iframe></p><p><strong>Dragon Tree Soak</strong></p><p>After a couple of hours of sand duning, the terrain turned from sand into into dry salt marsh and a green smudge started appearing on the horizon. This was Dragon Tree Soak emerging, or at least the Dragon Trees were. It was flatter than expected but then water features often are flat.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="ScreenShot2014-10-10at5.19.31pm-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-am-mwTRAx_k/VDeCrK3KB7I/AAAAAAAAO5I/UVapWfZSi08/ScreenShot2014-10-10at5.19.31pm-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>Finally, when we reached the Dragon Tree Soak there was plenty of water and a few access beaches and it looked almost like the location we had seen from the photos, maybe a bit greener even.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5839-5841-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ypthxq9dWrk/VDIU_MSYHcI/AAAAAAAAOmk/fxlK0oQGD2M/s800/IMG_5839-5841-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /> </span></p><p>The flowering Dragon Trees, the waving reeds and whirling flocks of finches made it a welcome sight, an oasis in an otherwise dry desert.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5869-5870-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LiB1_q9uNpw/VDIU0Lys_gI/AAAAAAAAOmU/OfUKCNwVFGk/s800/IMG_5869-5870-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>However, when we got a bit closer, we were disappointed, but not really surprised, to find that camels had fouled the water so we couldn’t use it. Luckily (or rather through good planning) we had not counted on getting good water from here, but it would have been a bonus.</p><p>This is <i>not</i> what you’d expect to find in the middle of a desert:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5848-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-37Tn0DVfDJk/VDDafLOMANI/AAAAAAAAOjc/vGvfbVxyTfM/s800/IMG_5848-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" width="800"/></span></p><p>Dave and Pauline who was having to hold her hat on in the strong breeze:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5852-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DC6aMFHFWc4/VDDZit_1jEI/AAAAAAAAOa0/9G0QkqE2iiI/s800/IMG_5852-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" width="800"/></span></p><p>Dean photographing Kaye at one of the Dragon Tree Soak’s “beaches”:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5836-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KiLG3YBXnTY/VDDZ7JsW-RI/AAAAAAAAOeU/fUEGF6WhYU0/s800/IMG_5836-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" width="800"/></span></p><p>A group photo on the beach at the Dragon Tree Soak:</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/OC06-zMMFCIPqt2vRhFTM9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="533" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CegxbBhnnzA/VDpJoNHKVcI/AAAAAAAAO74/hacqoxD_sHI/s800/DSC_0723a.jpg" width="800" /></a></p><p>Dragon trees and a dragon tree flower:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5832-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O5HK8VJNHLc/VDDZ6KdfHDI/AAAAAAAAOeM/b9NEMOaE2Bg/s800/IMG_5832-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5834-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Rtu1BkE3FFc/VDDaczN5NAI/AAAAAAAAOjM/hqMaB_64HCs/s800/IMG_5834-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5835DragonTreeFlower-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7H196i6kAt4/VDDZNjsLraI/AAAAAAAAOYE/zK-xwy-XLzM/IMG_5835DragonTreeFlower-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p>After lunch we set out to find Elizabeth Soak, only 1km south of the Dragon Tree Soak. We had been expecting it to be surrounded by a thicket of acacias but after forcing our way though the tangle of sharp scrub it is was completely dry. We tried the other side of the soak but it was much the same:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5864-5866-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m6gtCOK6ii8/VDIU681lP_I/AAAAAAAAOmc/_cd_zG6NpAw/s800/IMG_5864-5866-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" width="800"/></span></p><p>This is supposed to be a lush blue lake of fresh water protected from camels by an impenetrable thicket of acacias. The acacia was certainly impenetrable, it took me quite a while to get through for a photo, but there has obviously been no substantial rain in this area for a couple of years and the green grass was turning brown.</p><p>Janet disturbed a couple of the aforementioned camels coming for their afternoon drink:</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="450" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/108468534?byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="600"></iframe></p><p><em><strong>Whilst we were a bit disappointed about the quality of the water in the Dragon Tree Soak, it had taken us 8 days of difficult desert crossing to reach this isolated spot, and beneath it all we were really quite proud of achieving our major objective, it had not been easy, neither would the exit route.</strong></em></p><p>The whole areas looked drier than previous photos had suggested, presumably due to intervening less wet wet seasons. This clay pan on the way to Elizabeth Soak was quite dry whereas earlier photos show it filled with water:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="ScreenShot2014-10-10at5.42.02pm-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MbkVFfbl3Zk/VDeIWdow8jI/AAAAAAAAO5Y/rlhx7L54QB0/ScreenShot2014-10-10at5.42.02pm-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>Analysing our trip on Google Earth after we arrived home revealed some interesting information about this area.</p><p>Looking at the track altitude profile for this section shows that Dragon Tree and Elizabeth Soaks are actually on top of a rise amongst the sand dunes, whereas you would expect them to be a the lowest point between dunes.</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/LkJp0x441ZnNqV-Vz7lJ6NMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="680" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-D2Z2cR0c50M/VEBFGNV7vKI/AAAAAAAAO-M/G1SmUvgHlFo/s800/DTS%2520Image%25202.jpg" width="800" /></a></p><p>The area containing the soaks is roughly 15m above the low points in the surrounding dunes (with Elizabeth Soak being higher than the Dragon Tree Soak), so I infer from this that they are true springs, not just lakes formed from the collection of rain water, with water pressure from a larger catchment area (maybe the nearby McLarty Hills area, which is higher), forcing water upwards and maintaining some of the springs at least during dry seasons.</p><p><em>[I also checked the altitude profile around Joanna Springs, which we didn’t visit, about 100km east of Dragon Tree Soak and it’s generally true in that area too although the variation in altitude is much less pronounced, presumably accounting for the smaller springs there]</em>.</p><p>There were a number of other potential soaks or springs marked on the maps but the general dryness of the countryside suggests less than average recent wet season rains. That would have made finding any good water seem somewhat chancy, so together with our increasing concerns over fuel usage, we made the sensible decision to head west rather than expend fuel on further searches.</p><p>Looking back now, it would have seemed reasonable to do more exploration in the area but at the time we saw things differently, so after our failure to find water at Elizabeth Soak and since we weren’t keen to return to the rather polluted Dragon Tree Soak, we turned west and headed towards a cut line which would take us theoretically down towards the Anna Plains Track.</p><p>There were no tracks in this area so we made our way cautiously across salt marsh country and camped in the next sand dune area about 10km west of Dragon Tree Soak where the terrain was certainly not boggy, if not firm and flat (Campsite #9).</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-21at12.22.33pm-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CmOEpSmfQ2U/VDeQshbuEII/AAAAAAAAO5o/FrbPBaflLw4/ScreenShot2014-09-21at12.22.33pm-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /> </span></p><p>That evening around the campfire we made a short video for Serge and Eli while we drank some of Serge’s home made wine to mark the occasion, we really had achieved our major trek objective but it took quite a while to sink in:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="ScreenShot2014-08-15at9.31.05pm-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OZ36mNuon0s/VDDZjwIXEII/AAAAAAAAObE/8OzIi2N_ec0/ScreenShot2014-08-15at9.31.05pm-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><strong>7 and 8 Aug</strong></p><p>The next 2 days were a repeat of previous travels, forging our way over dozens of sand dunes and through thick scrub as we turned south from the Dragon Tree Soak swale and headed towards the APT, but we had some good campsites and spectacular sunsets. See “<a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/dragon-tree-soak-to-anna-plains-track.html">Dragon Tree Soak to the Anna Plains Track</a>”.</p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-88639292563828738262014-11-07T11:59:00.014+10:302015-11-18T06:53:50.409+10:30Northern Highway to The McLarty Hills<p><strong>Crossing the Great Sandy Desert, the Grand Plan</strong></p><p>In July and August 2014, a group of 3 Okas and 6 people set out from the Great Northern Highway near Fitzroy Crossing in northern WA to cross the north western section of the Great Sandy Desert .</p><p>With us (Janet and David, Oka 148) were Dave and Pauline (Oka 137) and Deano and Kaye (Oka 413). We each carried the maximum amount of fuel and water practical (around 300l of fuel and 250l of water per vehicle), food for several weeks, 6 spare wheels (all the same size rims for compatibility) plus a couple of spare tyre casings.</p><p>Between us we also carried 3 HF radios, 2 Sat phones, 3 GPS navigation systems, an EPIRB and an array of recovery gear. All 3 Okas were fitted with diff lockers front and rear to cope with the expected soft sandy conditions.</p><p>Our major safety concern was to avoid a vehicle roll-over at all costs, which is why we were so careful in reconnoitring routes over sand dunes. Between us we felt certain we had the spares, tools and expertise to fix or circumvent any major mechanical failure (we didn’t actually have any) but a roll-over would have have been a serious and possibly irrecoverable disaster.</p><p>Dave was the architect of the trip since he worked in the area for many years and had prior experience of the terrain and awareness of the sites to be visited. The planned route was to follow former or existing mining tracks or cut lines whenever possible (they may have been unused for up to 30 years), our primary objectives being:</p><p><ul style="list-style-type: disc;"></p><p><li>to reach the Dragon Tree Soak, a small permanent lake in a nature reserve in the centre of the desert,</li></p><p><li>to locate the names of historical visitors to the area engraved on the rocks somewhere in the McLarty Hills,</li></p><p><li>and of course, return again safely to earth.</li></p><p></ul></p><p>Exploration of the Joanna Springs area would be a possible side trip if conditions allowed. </p><p>This is what Dragon Tree Soak <em><strong>should</strong></em> look like, (courtesy of a photo from a previous travellers’s account from Exploroz), but we had no idea of the size or exact location in the McLarty Hills of the engraved names:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="PastedGraphic1-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7ZCIkmwPt2g/VDIOnuyB29I/AAAAAAAAOmE/8UTDcjhnbD8/PastedGraphic1-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p><strong>Route Planning</strong></p><p>Starting from the Great Northern Highway near Fitzroy Crossing, we planned to emerge from the desert on the NW Coastal Highway near Sandfire Roadhouse, the full distance of the desert crossing being around 800-900km which should take around 2 weeks. Alternative exit route strategies were considered via the Edgar Ranges north west to the Roebuck Plains if the western route became impassable.</p><p>A things transpires, due to emerging fuel concerns, we had to abandon the side trip to Joanna Springs, which would have added around 250km to the route, and put that on the list for a future trip.</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BRJmHobNlo94Uysp9Jc1BNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="385" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-OloRxNKl-NA/VDG8gOXIiwI/AAAAAAAAOk4/7e7H2mVb-Kk/s800/ScreenShot2014-10-06at8.15.11am_1-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></a></p><p>The blue and red tracks on the map above indicates our actual desert track, with the red centre section (about 400km) being the most challenging section. For most of that section there were almost no visible tracks to follow, only feint Google Earth photos of tracks (which were a few years old) that I had saved and geo-referenced for our mapping software before leaving home, and occasional exploration cut lines from the 1970’s and 80’s, most of which are very overgrown at ground level.</p><p>We had some old mining maps of the 1980’s and GPS track plots from a couple of previous expeditions, but vegetation conditions can change significantly over just a few years, and even our most detailed topographical maps (EOTopo 200K maps from Exploroz) showed no tracks at all for around 70km where our route crossed the Calvert Expedition’s route of 1896 (the feint yellow south-north line on the map above). That 70km section would take us 2 1/2 days to cross.</p><p><strong>27 July</strong></p><p>We had all arranged to meet at mid-day at a point 70km south east of Fitzroy Crossing on 29 July to start the crossing, but starting from 3 widely dispersed parts of the country, getting to the starting point was our first challenge. We came up from Adelaide, Dave and Pauline came up from Perth, and Deano and Kaye came across from touring in Queensland.</p><p>Coming up from Adelaide in less than a week, we completed the 1100km Tanami Track to Halls creek and met up with Deano and Kaye in the caravan park at Halls Creek. We compared notes on our Okas at some length and I did some maintenance work on the handbrake since the cable had slipped off its pulley and was jamming and got badly frayed.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5470-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lwEnMxmM35Q/VDDZaIfZguI/AAAAAAAAOZ8/DNawXlBjr1k/s800/IMG_5470-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p>I tidied up the sharp hard frayed ends, wrapped them in tape, and to ensure the same thing didn’t happen again, I fitted a bespoke stop to the handle so that only fresh unfrayed cable went around the pulley and freed up some cable at the handbrake end to compensate.</p><p>Apart from that we relaxed over a few drinks in the warm shade to discuss our future adventures.</p><p>At 5pm we called Dave and Pauline at Jubilee Station where they were visiting friends, and confirmed when and where to meet them; midday on Tuesday at the Cherrabun turn off, 200 km west of Halls creek, before heading south west into the Great Sandy Desert.</p><p>Tomorrow we’ll refill all the water and fuel tanks and do some final shopping for supplies in Halls Creek and set off west to a campsite on the Laura River.</p><p>This will be the final upload of our blog for a couple of weeks, there are no Telstra phone towers between here and 80 Mile Beach on the other side of the desert.</p><p><strong>28 July</strong></p><p>Refuelled, regassed and refooded in Halls Creek we set off 70km west to a Laura River campsite which Dave had recommended rather than the caravan congested Mary River rest area. A bit rough alongside the old river crossing but we did some gardening and made the most of it.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5480-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-dWk03Tn8Hkw/VDDZPLhpn3I/AAAAAAAAOYU/e96dlLztouQ/s800/IMG_5480-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5478-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-60mn3M3u1QA/VDDZ-HCUD2I/AAAAAAAAOe0/qHgeoVpf1N8/s800/IMG_5478-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><strong>29 July</strong></p><p>We met up with Dave and Pauline at the Cherrabun T/O, after a 140km drive from our previous Laura River campsite with Deano and Kaye, who we teamed up with in Halls Creek. They arrived one minute early and we arrived one minute late, not bad after 2500km from Adelaide.</p><p><strong>The first meeting of our 3 Okas:</strong></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5490-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LekzgBdKYIM/VDDaKLn9WTI/AAAAAAAAOgk/MJmohq4BJik/s800/IMG_5490-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><em>[Note for the future regarding fuel: In hindsight, we should have gone the next 70km to refuel again in Fitzroy Crossing. The 200km from Halls Creek had used valuable fuel which we were to need during the latter stages of the desert crossing, but we didn’t realise at the time quite how tough the crossing would be on fuel.</em></p><p><em>We had worked on a worst case average fuel consumption of around 4km/l, as we had experienced on the CSR, but actually it was twice as heavy for much of the crossing, averaging 2.5km/l for the most challenging sections. A lesson for the future.]</em></p><p>We drove quickly though picturesque Cherrabun station on rough station tracks, keen to get camped on an old abandoned WMC airstrip on the desert crossing proper.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5494-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Vj51KSNgL4A/VDDZXJHz2XI/AAAAAAAAOZk/bqI0Sop30B0/s800/IMG_5494-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5503-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-NTL80EA3vMo/VDDZ3x4R0fI/AAAAAAAAOd8/c7z-4NEHRqM/s800/IMG_5503-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5513-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oP6gQEUXLJw/VDDaaWNh2uI/AAAAAAAAOi8/ZrHORJMgp2o/s800/IMG_5513-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5514-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JShW63b4hcQ/VDDaYPeFdCI/AAAAAAAAOik/hEE_WG3IMzQ/s800/IMG_5514-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>We located the old WMC airstrip about 100km in from the highway and set up for our first camp.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5519-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I-mOCE92b6c/VDDaJTN-T6I/AAAAAAAAOgc/XkZ6FnxvadM/s800/IMG_5519-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>We all had superb BBQ-ed Baramundi for dinner, courtesy of Dave and Pauline who had brought them from Jubillee Station where they’d been staying (and obviously fishing).</p><p>A high flyer passed over our airstrip campsite, which seemed appropriate.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5515-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-z0vRFaanOmM/VDDZX_ERmgI/AAAAAAAAOZs/JaU63RMZdYI/s800/IMG_5515-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><strong>30 July</strong></p><p>We passed the junction of the old 1980’s WMC mining track with it’s still legible (and sadly accurate) sign:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5521-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Y0N6Iyp5mG0/VDDaG3Pu5OI/AAAAAAAAOgE/rFxZXdVzdwY/s800/IMG_5521-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p>At the track junction we stopped for a group photo, in this area the track is still in very good condition:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5524-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TGpSk5D7pm8/VDDaAaVrcpI/AAAAAAAAOfE/AJJ6A9nSD0c/s800/IMG_5524-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p>We drove though an abandoned Aboriginal out station and refilled with water at their still working water system, since we weren’t sure where our next water source would be.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5544-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMXdcS48EuttMs3UhMLcah6BMuCrcIydqso-aFga2bt8noNkX3DBBI-ybykZa5rX1hena0d1jrjhkD1hsq_w6rJxdg_hGZXKhbQr6NL4L_GEbatDVeg2Q3ZfPVLUmMYavDstx9bJ3Cy2RW/s800/IMG_5544-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>A few km further on we met the junction of the McLarty Track and turned west.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5545-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nTiYtbQ3u68/VDDaSBoPqYI/AAAAAAAAOh0/AKSc0roboH0//s800IMG_5545-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p>The track deteriorated in visibility and quality as we headed further west but the purple flowers and Holly Grevillea looks very pretty, when they weren’t blocking our way.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5549-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-48Izk9crFRU/VDDZQsbSH9I/AAAAAAAAOYc/RzPcCsjeO04/s800/IMG_5549-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/N5ohXlWULOm52v4Qoj_Mk9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkX_cmvjxPAmWDUvxrbGNWDdNFsZNP2J4H3QxhluzCgCVCBwjL1pu0H0GNncOy8qRlfdI7FM6-sIl1ywSNi5hs00RpbcJarfUjzp-pV1hfp8Mi94xfCXNthj4Qcm5BIzkFpXlXMesldSX6/s640/IMG_5550.JPG" width="640" /></a></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5554-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OSJe5lrSN9o/VDDZyb4tCgI/AAAAAAAAOc8/VgRBr4F0FkE/s800/IMG_5554-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5553-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-og2B5wgXpJA/VDDZ8GTxGBI/AAAAAAAAOec/Z0PYEvqrk0o/s800/IMG_5553-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>We camped 90km further on from last night, just off the track at an old mining campsite used by Dave a few years ago.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5560-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WHbegEBoKRI/VDDZJfZZHGI/AAAAAAAAOXk/6fLVSIydXGY/s800/IMG_5560-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>We located their still working bore and drew water using Dave’s very effective flap pump. We didn’t know it then but this would be the last useable water we located until Sandfire Roadhouse a week and a half later.</p><p>To demonstrate the amount of recent vegetation growth in the GSD, this is a merged photo of the same area now (left 2/3rds), and in 2010 (right 1/3rd):</p><p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UUsoUenSGv0xGBFAmgnOU9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="312" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iI-cmP2l3PI/VESD2IB2pUI/AAAAAAAAO_k/2nDAKojAzyg/s800/DoubleTake%2520Result-1.jpg" /></a></p><p><strong>31 July</strong></p><p>From here the track started to deteriorate further and became overgrown requiring frequent deviations around thickets of small trees and bushes where we couldn’t push through them. We only achieved 47km today.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5561-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zctr9U3t0XE/VDDZTbgJLfI/AAAAAAAAOY8/vIZa6Yr7_no/s800/IMG_5561-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5569-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wGdH6L7LxXw/VDDZ4SoK8JI/AAAAAAAAOeE/iHB44eCdtKA/s800/IMG_5569-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>One of the more obvious cut lines across a sand dune:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5571-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nWFtiLLByZ4/VDDZL-TPn0I/AAAAAAAAOX4/DLcPOu-baWw/s800/IMG_5571-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>The camping arrangements were becoming more organised each night.</p><p><strong>This was a “tablecloth” night:</strong></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5575-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Eh9RAQ0ZAgs/VDDZvq2fNfI/AAAAAAAAOcs/shEqVzmvmHk/s800/IMG_5575-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><strong>1 Aug</strong></p><p>Another slow day along the McLarty Track, we only achieved 44km today.</p><p>There is no dotted line on the map to follow for 70km across this section of desert, 2 1/2 days drive:</p><p><table style="width: auto;"><tbody></p><p><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TpAGOxCjWLCV16p5dlcHS9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img height="328" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XnK2WTaTyQc/U_qTs-nyODI/AAAAAAAANrU/yOcEo47KV_Y/s800/ScreenShot2014-08-25at10.00.02am-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></a></td></tr></p><p><tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/dandjribbans/DropBox?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Drop Box</a></td></tr></p><p></tbody></table></p><p>We were on even more our own for this section, but we knew where we were and we knew what we were heading for.</p><p>Fortunately there were still some signs of a track on the ground and occasional signs of human presence to provide reassurance we were on the right line.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5576-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oyT1MOs4iak/VDDZzKJm5iI/AAAAAAAAOdE/uibYAhEATXM/s800/IMG_5576-2014-07-21-17-33-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>We passed the approximate location where the 1896 Calvert Expedition crossed our track. [Calvert financed the expedition but it was led by Larry Wells, you can read the book of their explorations online <a href="https://archive.org/stream/calvertscientifi00hill#page/n7/mode/2up">here</a>]. They were heading north and having to cross thousands of sand dunes in the process, whereas our track was predominantly east/west to minimise dune crossings but we still crossed more than 100.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="ScreenShot2014-10-06at10.26.12am-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kaBrE76doD0/VDHdzhMopoI/AAAAAAAAOls/hy0I2GaOGds/s800/ScreenShot2014-10-06at10.26.12am-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p>Our 700km desert track, in red, superimposed on Calvert’s 1896 map of unexplored areas of north western Australia.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="ScreenShot2014-10-06at10.38.05am-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GmCNyVqcwTM/VDHdy8HKNfI/AAAAAAAAOlk/vKBqhO5jErs/s800/ScreenShot2014-10-06at10.38.05am-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p>Two of Calvert/Wells’s men (Charles Wells, cousin of Larry, and George Jones) died in the desert of heat and thirst in November 1896, <em>“a day’s march”</em> from Joanna Springs, but it took 6 months of exhausting searches to find them. Their mummified bodies were eventually recovered and buried in Adelaide.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="ScreenShot2014-10-06at10.24.11am-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JST6-XJkJB0/VDHd0QisAVI/AAAAAAAAOl0/HJu2Tl11ejk//s800ScreenShot2014-10-06at10.24.11am-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p>Although we didn’t reach Joanna Springs due to fuel concerns, there is a <a href="http://www.exploroz.com/images/blogs/3533_4__TN800x600.jpg?_46156">memorial</a> plaque to the 2 lost men, installed there by the Land Rover Calvert Centenary Expedition, (photo courtesy of Mick O on Exploroz):</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="plaqu"e to Wells and Jones src="http://www.exploroz.com/images/blogs/3533_4__TN800x600.jpg?_46156" /></span></p><p>Back on our track the thickets were becoming thicker but at least we didn’t have to find water for our camels:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5577-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jGHywfr34NU/VDDZF0LwFSI/AAAAAAAAOXM/13BKOeg7nbc/s800/IMG_5577-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5582-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p9NNpkBIAac/VDDZ9YimyrI/AAAAAAAAOes/ZfqwjReFBsM/s800/IMG_5582-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>Occasionally they became “thinnets”:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5587-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZaWgkBOgjlQ/VDDZayE2JAI/AAAAAAAAOaE/2SOgvJKhM3Q/s800/IMG_5587-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>Or grassy spinifex clumps:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5585-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Fp-jVPaMVmc/VDDZn-lwM6I/AAAAAAAAObk/fvbMVqJdKw0/s800/IMG_5585-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p>And the same camping arrangements, on a clearing on the track:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5590-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cwFUQGgIZOo/VDDZsLgMqLI/AAAAAAAAOcE/GYb69LYATug//s800IMG_5590-2014-07-21-17-33.PNG-2014-07-21-19-03.png" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5589-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zA092kdUBKU/VDDZpXL54sI/AAAAAAAAOb0/EFE7Hb_UggQ/s800/IMG_5589-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><strong>2 Aug</strong></p><p>This was the day we had to seriously start making our own tracks.</p><p>The dotted red line on the maps disappeared completely yesterday and today the tracks on the ground did likewise. We were left with Google Earth photos and the track plot of a previous adventurer to guide us. As a result we could only achieve 22km today.</p><p>Things started out OK…</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5597-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gX6aFtf7UM4/VDDZokXVAGI/AAAAAAAAObs/o7YqcEATo2g/s800/IMG_5597-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5602-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-dMmCZWyDySA/VDDZWeCkgbI/AAAAAAAAOZc/bqMoL_RN3QM/s800/IMG_5602-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>…but became more difficult:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5608-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-emaHmPCFZEg/VDDaCfLp3DI/AAAAAAAAOfc/GmeUcElqcjs/s800/IMG_5608-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5610-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-izXE-nnTMWI/VDDZs53bWQI/AAAAAAAAOcM/B3WBanmjK5k/s800/IMG_5610-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>And collected some passing flora:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5622-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YgnU1P8fIuw/VDDaa34fOOI/AAAAAAAAOjE/CJMppzDkZdI/s800/IMG_5622-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>We did find a large spider hanging from silver threads of steel. He (or she) obviously knew how to survive out here:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5615-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MalHazFl4k8/VDDaM6Rx8tI/AAAAAAAAOhE/H8jSfiUUdJI/s800/IMG_5615-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>Here’s a video of pushing our way across the desert spinifex. It started fairly easy but was to become more difficult, much more difficult in the later stages of our trek.</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="450" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/103610628?byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="600"></iframe></p><p><strong>3 Aug</strong></p><p>After about 20km this morning we regained the red line on the map and reached the McLarty No 1 drill site, but we couldn’t locate their bore, so we had lunch here instead.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5636-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UgkrRy8C6cM/VDDaY2anZHI/AAAAAAAAOis/aIFAJtoOFzo/s800/IMG_5636-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>The McLarty No 1 drill site was made in 1968, with the details firmly etched into a piece of thick steel plate.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5648-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4RdNT9poDXQ/VDDaUcsve4I/AAAAAAAAOiM/xIbpWHbClwY/s800/IMG_5648-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>We located the junction of the Edgar Ranges Track from the north which showed some evidence of recent wheel tracks (a day or 2 old) although we never saw anyone, and turned south down the McLarty Hills track which was an old mining cut line but now mostly very indistinct and overgrown.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5640-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wB0-Bfj-lwE/VDDaKuTBXTI/AAAAAAAAOgs/8-f71J5ORa0/s800/IMG_5640-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>A star picket is a valuable indication of human presence:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5644-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zFxVH60EaHU/VDDZUIXpYdI/AAAAAAAAOZE/x8H1pZYADV4/s800/IMG_5644-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>We managed a bit further today, 32km, but it was hard slog and we were getting tired so we made camp a few km short of the McLarty Hills, they could wait until tomorrow.</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5683-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xVGJBH25qSw/VDDZYtGyBmI/AAAAAAAAOZ0/0wRJ9aLaAVw/s800/IMG_5683-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>Camels came to visit our campsite, but they were more curious than threatening but we were very cautious, large male camels can be very protective of their harem if threatened:</p><p><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img alt="IMG_5673-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jJf88iMX9UE/VDDaTu2Z6jI/AAAAAAAAOiE/u4tAOXjn1Jw/s800/IMG_5673-2014-07-21-17-33.JPG-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></span></p><p>As I explored the facilities around the campsite I noted that it’s so dry out here your wee dries up before it hits the ground (almost, men only).</p><p>Tomorrow we should reach the McLarty Hills, our first major objective. See “<a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/exploring-mclarty-hills.html">Exploring the McLarty Hills</a>”.</p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-67124489512458500182014-10-19T17:43:00.003+10:302015-11-18T06:53:50.383+10:30Crossing the Great Sandy Desert, the Grand Plan<p><strong>Crossing the Great Sandy Desert, the Grand Plan</strong></p><p>In July and August 2014, a group of 3 Okas and 6 people set out from the Great Northern Highway near Fitzroy Crossing to cross the north western section of the Great Sandy Desert. With us (Janet and David, Oka 148) were Dave and Pauline (Oka 137) and Deano and Kaye (Oka 413).</p><p>We each carried the maximum amount of fuel and water practical (around 300l of fuel and 250l of water per vehicle), food for several weeks, 6 spare wheels (all the same size rims for compatibility) plus a couple of spare tyre casings. Between us we also carried 3 HF radios, 2 Sat phones, 3 GPS navigation systems, an EPIRB and an array of recovery gear.</p><p>All 3 Okas were fitted with diff lockers front and rear to cope with the expected soft sandy conditions. Our major safety concern was to avoid a vehicle roll-over at all costs, which is why we were so careful in reconnoitring routes over sand dunes. Between us we felt certain we had the spares, tools and experience to fix or circumvent any major mechanical failure (we didn’t actually have any) but a roll-over would have have been a serious and possibly irrecoverable disaster.</p><p>Dave was the architect of the trip since he worked in the area for many years and had prior experience of the terrain and awareness of the sites to be visited. The planned route was to follow former or existing mining tracks or cut lines whenever possible (they may have been unused for up to 30 years)march, our primary objectives being:</p><ul style="list-style-type: disc"><li>to reach the Dragon Tree Soak, a small permanent lake in a nature reserve in the centre of the desert,</li><li>to locate the names of historical visitors to the area engraved on the rocks somewhere in the McLarty Hills,</li><li>and of course, return again safely to earth.</li></ul><p>Exploration of the Joanna Springs area would be a possible side trip if conditions allowed.</p><p>This is what Dragon Tree Soak should look like, (courtesy of a photo from a previous travellers’s account from Exploroz), but we had no idea of the size or exact location in the McLarty Hills of the engraved names:</p><p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 12pt;"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_HzWQZiM9Ko/VF5_lQTiYrI/AAAAAAAAPS8/CQE_IQVevyQ/PastedGraphic1-2014-07-21-19-03-2014-10-19-17-43.png" alt="PastedGraphic1-2014-07-21-19-03-2014-10-19-17-43.png"></span></p><p><strong>Route Planning</strong></p><p>Starting from the Great Northern Highway near Fitzroy Crossing, we planned to emerge from the desert on the NW Coastal Highway near Sandfire Roadhouse, the full distance of the desert crossing being around 800-900km which should take around 2 weeks. Alternative exit route strategies were considered via the Edgar Ranges north west to the Roebuck Plains if the western route became impassable.</p><p>Due to emerging fuel concerns we had to abandon the side trip to Joanna Springs, which would have added around 250km to the route, and put that on the list for a future trip.</p><p><table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BRJmHobNlo94Uysp9Jc1BNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-OloRxNKl-NA/VDG8gOXIiwI/AAAAAAAAOk4/7e7H2mVb-Kk/s800/ScreenShot2014-10-06at8.15.11am_1-2014-07-21-19-03.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=dandjribbans&target=ALBUM&id=6047187974848717777&feat=embedwebsite"></a></td></tr></table></p><p>The blue and red tracks on the map above indicates our actual desert track, with the red centre section (about 400km) being the most challenging section. For most of that section there were almost no visible tracks to follow, only feint Google Earth photos of tracks (which maybe a few years old) that I had saved and geo-referenced for our mapping software before leaving home, and occasional exploration cut lines from the 1970’s and 80’s, most of which are very overgrown at ground level.</p><p>We had some old mining maps of the 1980’s and GPS track plots from a couple of previous expeditions, but vegetation conditions can change significantly over just a few years, and even our most detailed topographical maps (EOTopo 200K maps from Exploroz) showed no tracks at all for around 70km where our route crossed the Calvert Expedition’s route of 1896 (the feint yellow south-north line on the map above). That 70km section would take us 2 1/2 days to cross.</p><p>Our trek report is split into several sections. Click on these links to read them:</p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/adelaide-to-halls-creek.html">Adelaide to Halls Creek across the Tanami Desert</a></p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/northern-highway-to-mclarty-hills.html">The Northern Highway at Fitzroy Crossing to the McLarty Hills</a></p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/exploring-mclarty-hills.html">Exploring the McLarty Hills</a></p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/mclarty-hills-to-desert-tree-soak.html">The McLarty Hills to Dragon Tree Soak</a></p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/dragon-tree-soak-to-anna-plains-track.html">Dragon Tree Soak to the Anna Plains Track</a></p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/anna-plains-track-to-sandfire-roadhouse.html">The Anna Plains Track to Sandfire Roadhouse</a></p><p>Of course, our 2014 outback trek didn’t just end at Sandfire Roadhouse. These are the subsequent sections:</p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com/2014/11/broome-across-to-darwin.html">Broome across to Darwin</a></p><p><a href="http://dandjribbans.blogspot.com/2014/11/darwin-to-adelaide.html">Darwin to Adelaide and home safely</a></p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-42420359730675930492014-09-14T07:32:00.007+09:302017-09-23T08:41:00.330+09:30Outback Trek 2014 - Darwin to Home<strong>25 Aug</strong><br />
We are at the Manbulloo campsite in Katherine planning our trip up to Darwin before starting the long journey home.<br />
Had a lazy morning so far, managed to access the internet for what to do in Darwin that we haven’t already done.<br />
A day trip to the Tiwi Islands seemed like a good idea but when I searched for info all I got were confusing and misleading stuff about Aboriginal Tours (the only kind you can get and need a permit to visit anyway), and nowhere to book an economical tour ($250 by ferry or $450 by air, each) either. So I looked at Trip Advisor and all the comments were negative, waste of a day, no culture (no dancing, no art sites, no scenery etc), all time spent in one arts place, childish paintings, expensive arts, money, money, money etc and basically waste of time and money.<br />
So that’s off the agenda, in favour of a $30 per 24 hours hop on-hop off double decker bus tour. It got tons of good reviews, even though we’ve done most of the places before, not having to drive, park, walk about in the heat seems a more and more attractive option.<br />
In the afternoon we went shopping in Katherine for food, fuel and gas, all successfully, plus Janet bought some shorts in Rockmans as she always does. It was stinking hot but the counter girl in Rockmans was wearing jeans, a long jumper and a woolly scarf and still complained of feeling cold. Must have had hypothermia or ebola or something else exotic.<br />
<strong>26 Aug</strong><br />
In the cool of the morning I did a spot of maintenance, checked the gearbox and transfer case oil, all OK, and greased the rear drive shaft UJs.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6466-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-plqSfWjLuO4/VBqF0WkVMeI/AAAAAAAAOAk/M4RSy2Gwo2E/IMG_6466-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
In the late morning we set off north stopping for lunch at Pine Creek and then a leg stretch at Adelaide River.<br />
We had decided not to reach Darwin tonight as it’s a long hot drive and fighting the Darwin traffic to find a camping place would be hard to bare. So we spied a camping area at the Manton Dam Wall, officially a picnic area, about 70km short of Darwin and stopped here. It was a bit noisy but there were a few other campers here, some more happy with the arrangements than others:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6469-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-46b0cHVfdyM/VBqIoPRJw5I/AAAAAAAAOJ0/dMSTsN9gTg4/IMG_6469-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
So it wasn’t too bad and we cooked and ate outside since it’s darn hot (mid 30’s during the day and it doesn’t cool off much until the early hours).<br />
<strong>27 Aug</strong><br />
Not a good day in Darwin, which is a pity since our previous visits have been very relaxing and friendly.<br />
The drive up wasn’t too bad, 70km over fairly good roads, choked with road trains, and ended up on a big freeway right into the city centre. We diverted to the waterfront, an area we hadn’t explored much before and stopped on Stokes Hill Wharf for a look at the sea. It’s a bit like a mini Glenelg with lots of eateries and a few souvenir shops. The menus make interesting reading but how can you be sure you’re really getting a camel burger and not a piece of horse meat?<br />
<img alt="IMG_6486-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NdenPHMAGWA/VBqFIqOjsOI/AAAAAAAAN-M/5t0aM9Izzkc/IMG_6486-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="427" /><br />
Nearby in a small park were a pair of stone curlews nesting. Their habit is to freeze when alarmed which makes them easy to photograph but also easy prey for dingos and raptors:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6481-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RNiQfz8yBAo/VBqEWFt2uyI/AAAAAAAAN7c/6uhG2oVTvEM/IMG_6481-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
But mostly Stokes Hill Wharf was good because it has free parking. Make a note of that, it’s now the only place in the city where that’s still possible.<br />
Fishing restrictions:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6489-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1A_I6_ySRrY/VBqGcPfjMyI/AAAAAAAAOCk/S2awkCE29qY/IMG_6489-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Interesting news from the NT:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6484-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OBySdehfRtM/VBqEuA4BtiI/AAAAAAAAN8s/hmFzTdFWwY4/IMG_6484-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
From there we drove up to the Esplanade, the main touristy section of park lands along the foreshore and opposite the parliament buildings, and all looked much the same except for the plethora of blue parking pay machines which now smother the city at around 10m intervals, and at $2.40 an hour (no notes or 5c pieces) it’s no longer the welcoming place for visitors it used to be. On our last trip this area had free visitor parking. We tried visiting the visitor centre to find out what else had changed but there was nowhere to park there either. In frustration we headed north to the East Point Military Reserve where there are excellent free car parks and good walking tracks along the cliff tops with plenty of memorabilia to visit too.<br />
Later we trundled though the busy traffic and hectic road works to Lee Point where we had camped in the caravan park there quite economically before. But horror of horrors, it’s now charging $50 per night for an unpowered site. I remonstrated that it was a ridiculous cost for a patch of land for a night and twice the price we had paid in Katherine only 2 days ago but we were told well you could drive out of the city (and presumably park on the road side somewhere). So we did, and saved $25 in doing so, along with quite a few other travellers. On the way we called another CP and was told the same story, $50 a night, and more for a powered site.<br />
Strike me lucky!, Darwin has priced itself out of the Value for Money criteria. Worse than that, fuel is 10-15c a litre more than in Katherine (and there’s a lot more competition here), and the whole of Darwin is undergoing rampant development with industrial and housing estates now going up in every spare hectare of land across the city. This makes it a hot, dry, dusty as well as frustrating place to be.<br />
There are no RV friendly facilities in Darwin, as there are now in many other towns and cities, and the government has failed to grasp the economic benefits of the huge number of self sufficient wealthy travelling nomads. By way of example these signs have sprung up all over Darwin:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6511-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jtSxCaCyKqI/VBqE0alVoEI/AAAAAAAAN9E/MRncYBbl8wM/IMG_6511-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Given that tourism sustains the economics of the NT, it’s very surprising and sad that they are paying scant regard to the needs of tourists, to the point that we won’t be spending any of our tourist dollars in Darwin anymore, and we have heard the same story from other travellers. Presumably their eyes and cash registers are firmly pointed in the direction of China, and bugger the rest of us.<br />
We did think Broome would be the economic low point of our trip but Darwin has firmly taken the lead, by a long way. Broome was actually very affordable as well as being a lot nicer, freer and more relaxing.<br />
<strong>28 Aug</strong><br />
Well I feel a bit better today. After a late start caused by talking for too long to a lonely old fellow in a small Winnebago (who had formed the same opinion of Darwin as we had), we drove back into Darwin and “lunched” on the Stokes Hill Wharf.<br />
There are lot of plaques around commemorating the first bombing raids by the Japanese in February 1942 which killed around 300 people in the docks area and sunk 21 ships…<br />
<img alt="IMG_6535-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ktqlkhsLUKw/VBqFWj9_rWI/AAAAAAAAN-8/jpYLnzNv2u0/IMG_6535-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
So it was a bit ironic to see a Japanese naval ship tied up alongside RAN ships on the wharf.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6532-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1nhd_IO18TE/VBqHhfnOSzI/AAAAAAAAOGM/OuLr7omgql0/IMG_6532-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
This is our outdoor cinema day, which I’d booked up earlier, so in the afternoon we awaited darkness by revisiting the MAGNT (Museum and Art Gallery of NT) which is icy cold inside and free and quite good. It still has the same exhibits as on our previous visit, the Cyclone Tracy exhibit, which is very good, and a wildlife section and a lot of indigenous artworks and some from the SA Asia region.<br />
We pottered along past Mindl Beach which they were setting up for the sunset markets and back to the cinema carpark which (as all parking areas are in Darwin) is mercifully free after 5pm, Saturday arvos and all day Sunday.<br />
The Deckchair Cinema is a 50 year old, volunteer-run, not-for-profit Darwin tradition. The earlier Star Theatre was destroyed by cyclone Tracy and replaced by the current outdoor theatre at the waters edge beneath the Esplanade. It’s surrounded by palm trees and shrubs to give it a sheltered aspect.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6539-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-um-AckifG38/VBqGGo1WuNI/AAAAAAAAOBc/NuFI2sd4ooo/IMG_6539-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The deckchairs are metal and canvas affairs (they do provide cushions, plus we took our own), similar to the Sun Picture Theatre in Broome.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6553-6554-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="227" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TS518gtyufY/VBqI01lk3_I/AAAAAAAAOKk/xO7EHQf1ODY/IMG_6553-6554-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
Meals, (like a “help-yourself BBQ” and which are provided each day by a separate fund-raising charity) and drinks can be bought and eaten at tables prior to the movie, or in your deckchair if you’re careful.<br />
Films change every day and the film we saw was “Tracks”, a new all Australian movie recounting Robyn Davidson’s 8 month solo trek (with 4 camels and dog) across the western deserts of Australia from Alice Springs to the Indian Ocean in 1977. Her story was published in <em>National Geographic</em> in 1978. We don’t know why it took 35 years to turn into a movie but it was very well done.<br />
<img alt="PastedGraphic1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="384" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EdZI3aaM1nk/VBqHVX2FyCI/AAAAAAAAOFc/3zItBaNg22Q/PastedGraphic1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
Since we had done almost the same trip last year from Alice Springs via Docker River and Warburton and along the Gunbarrel Highway right out to Steep Pinot on the west coast, it was quite meaningful and familiar, although quite a lot of cinematic licence was taken with locations (it was all shot in SA and the NT), the scenery, the story and her obvious love of her camels and dog Diggity was extremely effective. It does have some sad moments but overall a good experience in a very different movie environment. It got cool but not cold and there were a few external distractions, like a ship passing by with lights blazing, and a few mossies, but it was a good night out for $12 each. See the trailer <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-DiOyxCQQI">here</a>.<br />
Late at night we drove back to our Manton Dam campsite in the dark and along the way called Scott who is leaving for his European adventure/honeymoon on Saturday, meeting up with Tash who’s on a business trip in Croatia. It was the usual long call and halfway through our credit ran out, so he called back and then the signal disappeared as we drove out of range. But by then all had been said that needed to be said, and more.<br />
<strong>29 Aug</strong><br />
Instead of traveling back into Darwin today, we (that is I) decided to divert up the Arnhem Highway to the Mary River NP for a couple of days where we knew we could get up close with large crocs, we’d been there before, in 2008. Then we could head back to Darwin on Sunday, refuel or what ever, visit the Mindl Beach markets in the late afternoon and make our exit from Darwin and head south.<br />
However the Arnhem Highway is not the nice country drive it used to be, for a start the sides of the road are infected by commercial advertising signs for everything from <em>Water Tanks</em> to <em>Bottl-O’s</em> to <em>Dig Your Own Power Pole Holes</em>, second there are a plethora or 3 of road trains and army vehicles roaring down a not very wide road.<br />
We stopped for lunch at Fogg Dam reserve, built in the early 1900’s as a rice growing area for export to SE Asia, but failed to survive due the Asian’s developing their own rice industry.<br />
This heron had caught something but it didn’t look very fish like, maybe a small eel:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6576-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kf4Cp0OHjgE/VBqFSCDH1ZI/AAAAAAAAN-s/4lUmFFdhjuI/IMG_6576-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Janet on a hot forest walk:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6573-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uxFPt7gwNcc/VBqJb65etVI/AAAAAAAAOME/AMJNpQCwrKY/IMG_6573-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
We are camped in the Mary River NP at Couzens Lookout, a free campsite overlooking a large billabong in the Mary River.<br />
It was hot so we sat outside in the evening computing:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6581-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ArXAlHTF2nw/VBqHq-Bl10I/AAAAAAAAOG0/LoY0SkkpEOI/IMG_6581-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<strong>30 Aug</strong><br />
There is a lot of wildlife here (but fortunately no other campers), kangaroos, noisy kookaburra’s, cape barren geese, pheasant coucals (see pic).<br />
<img alt="IMG_6596_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="478" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HVWtTCWodH4/VBqEPqNoM0I/AAAAAAAAN7M/EvqgfLFVJ4E/IMG_6596_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
And a cormorant drying its wings<br />
<img alt="IMG_6608-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GqG2JyYyl-A/VBqGQmiwnHI/AAAAAAAAOB8/F0pl6RG3saM/IMG_6608-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" width="640" /><br />
Under the Oka this morning is a pool of fluid, fortunately only radiator coolant. There’s been a drip from the thermostat housing for some time but now it’s worse so now it needs a new gasket, which I’ve got a spare one of. When the engine is hot the leak seems to subside so it’s not as bad as it looks. It’s only lost less than 2 litres of water so I can top that up daily.<br />
But to make things easier I’ll leave replacing it until we are at a more civilised location lest something serious goes wrong which I can’t fix here, a small leak is better than an avalanche, and replace the gasket in Darwin or Katherine in a few days where help is nearby if needed.<br />
Off to look for crocs this morning and we’ll return here tonight.<br />
So we looked around the Mary River here at the lookout but there had been a lot bigger wet season than the last time we were here and the river level is a lot higher and there were no river flats for crocs to lie on.<br />
We headed north and stopped off at Mistake Billabong for a lunch and look for wild animals but on the walk in it was me that made a mistake. There was a bitey fly buzzing around my head so I snapped off a small leafy eucalyptus branch as you do, for use as a fly whisk. Unbeknown to me green ants had constructed a nest on the branch, made of leaves bent over and glued along the edges, and they don’t like being disturbed, especially if being used as a fly whisk. <br />
<img alt="IMG_6644-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Hc6y64Wf_X8/VBqGJEGYAEI/AAAAAAAAOBk/JPxmTbIa6MA/IMG_6644-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
After a couple of waves of my whisk the bitey fly was quickly forgotten as I was covered in bitey green ants instead, inside and outside my shirt and up my shorts and all over the camera case I was carrying. I had to strip off and remove each of the hundreds of ants one at a time as they bit me, the camera case, my shirt and ultimately Janet who came to my rescue. It took a good 5 minutes but fortunately the bites are not venomous or long lasting, just annoying.<br />
These are the little blighters:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6697-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pk_qYGDTK6s/VBqE3WOMyXI/AAAAAAAAN9U/OFr4X_ZrayM/IMG_6697-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" width="640" /><br />
And instead of dangerous crocs we saw a feral water buffalo. These creatures can also be dangerous but this one was on the other side of the billabong. I thought they had been almost eradicated in the NT, Crocodile Dundee style, since they cause so much damage to waterways, but obviously not.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6637-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-abadcYdPTdg/VBqIpFW2MoI/AAAAAAAAOJ8/q30CnHfuiOM/IMG_6637-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" width="640" /><br />
After lunch we drove north to Shady Lagoon, where we knew from past experience is where to find crocs, lots of crocs, and we were’t disappointed.<br />
At the viewing platform we could see at least 8 or 9 crocs sunning themselves at various places on the far bank, and a few more cruising around just beneath the surface.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6646-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-spvOQnhNubs/VBqG8LMdzLI/AAAAAAAAOEE/8AchAgR99Lk/IMG_6646-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6660-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z9ukCyBvZrY/VBqGV6f1pKI/AAAAAAAAOCM/6KaBZ35Lb3Q/IMG_6660-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
It was at this very spot that in 2007 I dropped 2 rechargeable batteries through this grille on to the mud as I was changing them. Sadly they are no longer there but just like last time, I wasn’t intending to brave the croc river to retrieve them. <br />
<img alt="IMG_6655-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0WuhkSunZAE/VBqJRT3k4hI/AAAAAAAAOLs/LF67NpHH3Og/IMG_6655-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
A while later we spied a large croc, probably 4-5m long and weighing 500kg, heading slowly towards the nearby boat ramp so we went round to check it out.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6676-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ie1pXrouHwY/VBqHPEHXFSI/AAAAAAAAOFE/Ua2bTIbfms8/IMG_6676-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
It cautiously approached the ramp, just like we did.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6683-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HX_LenTW8W4/VBqEf1q-04I/AAAAAAAAN78/wq5olYU43As/IMG_6683-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
I walked tentatively towards him to about 10m away and he heaved himself a bit further on to the ramp and watched me. I bravely and sensibly backed away a bit.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6679-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VhQxc60Rl28/VBqI7JVWuEI/AAAAAAAAOK0/07UkQxLHeWE/IMG_6679-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Look at those interlocking teeth (which they are born/hatched with) with 10 tonnes per sq inch of crushing power.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6686-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yScI6-a7wOU/VBqG4KIwrMI/AAAAAAAAOD0/2_20tFodhEI/IMG_6686-2014-09-14-07-32.JPG" width="640" /><br />
We watched him (or her) for 10 minutes or so and he was definitely eyeing me up as a potential feed. I was a good 10m away up the ramp, but he obviously knew the boat ramp meant a potential meal, and this is probably why, at the very same spot. People are advised not to enter the water when launching boats, which this fellow did.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6650-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Kzbqa4-2K6w/VBqJEa7mDLI/AAAAAAAAOLM/9wPFvU4zTuU/IMG_6650-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
After we moved on he slid back into the river, a sure sign that we meant something to him. Perhaps he just wanted to be my friend?<br />
<img alt="IMG_6692_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="481" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z_sGphSe_eA/VBqIJ3QhUqI/AAAAAAAAOIM/yfHw6EL8ezY/IMG_6692_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Actually these are extremely dangerous creatures, they are Australia’s number one predator and not to be messed with. More people are killed by crocs each year than by snakes and sharks combined. The may look slow and fat out of the water but they can move at lightning speed when they want to, we witnessed that on our last visit when we surprised a croc laying on the bank. It surprised us too….<br />
There’s a law in the NT prohibiting boats from approaching within 10m of a croc, and the same common sense applies to foot traffic too. While you’re focussed on one croc, another could be creeping up behind you…<br />
Subsequently we went to Mindl Beach markets in Darwin where a young lady from the Crocodylus Park (where you can take home a “Crocodile BBQ Pack”) was showing off a small one year old hatchling, which Janet had a hold of (the young lady wasn’t allowed to let go of the croc as some people have be known to run off with them):<br />
<img alt="IMG_6721-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-83YzZpSpXKM/VBqGE1lM9eI/AAAAAAAAOBU/dmjiLjgp3mY/IMG_6721-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6722-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mt6aHwydhl4/VBqFntDiQXI/AAAAAAAAN_8/B4A8adf_5VY/IMG_6722-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Actually they feel like a cold sausage, but all smooth on their underside (the valuable part, aren’t they all?). If it was in the wild, this one could have grown as large as our Mary River specimen (even at one year old it could snap your finger off, their jaw muscles have a mechanical leverage mechanism like bolt cutters). But sadly this one will have long since become handbags and shoes.<br />
That night I invented a better way to keep my beer cool between sips, using second stubby cooler as a lid. Worked pretty well.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6695_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--G1FfBGzEzY/VBqFhhjGJ1I/AAAAAAAAN_s/kTlI6_Zm0Sw/IMG_6695_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<strong>31 Aug</strong><br />
Today we left our Couzens Lookout camp on the Mary River and headed 140km back for a last look around Darwin before departing south.<br />
We “lunched” on the Esplanade where parking is free on Sundays, and walked around the many military memorials along the shady grasslands on the top of the cliff overlooking Darwin Harbour. Commemorative wartime plaques are still being erected there, the latest being in 2012 in memory of Canadian Signals and Communications forces who operated here in the latter stages of the war.<br />
This the memorial to the USS Peary, sunk with the loss of 91 sailors during the first Japanese bombing raid on Darwin on 19 Feb 1942, the first ever raid on Australian Soil (other than the European invasion of 1788). At that time invasion was far from expected and there were only 2 fighters (US Kittyhawks) to protect the whole of northern Australia. They were both destroyed on convoy protection and their pilots were lost, but due to a news blackout of the raids, the bravery and sacrifices of the defenders was never disclosed or commemorated until after the war. Neither was the plan disclosed to abandon the northern half of Australia in the event of full scale invasion and defend only across the Brisbane-Alice Springs-Port Hedland line, roughly across the 23rd parallel.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6708-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hSM4zCA_J1c/VBqEm_QyFLI/AAAAAAAAN8U/aXFG-GSnZYI/IMG_6708-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Over the next 3 years a large number is airstrips and military facilities were constructed in WA and the NT and particularly around Darwin and many can still be visited although sadly some are now on private land and only informative plaques remain. A pity because they are useful camping areas where you can immerse yourself in history. Just recently the site of the secret Z Force commando regiment, whose exploits have never been fully disclosed to this day, was ploughed up for an industrial site. The NT Govt considered a plaque was all that was needed.<br />
<br />
<img alt="IMG_6711-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cHmUNgTZtZo/VBqHX9vT2II/AAAAAAAAOFk/eJbfqECWBtg/IMG_6711-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
We paddled in the sea off Mindl Beach so technically we’ve been in the sea in Darwin, something you are not supposed to do due to deadly crocs, jelly fish, sharks, cone shells etc. but we did paddle between the flags.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6717-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QbzxO2VPGCE/VBqD-2_dkwI/AAAAAAAAN6c/w9REJHQ8ykY/IMG_6717-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6715-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDvwb4SwaCtcNAthw8InvyE9W-5F01M6YpKOh8L9wF5_JHQFTXcp43keT79L6rhyphenhyphene9g6ifl5n3IOwBT-EysK6XdIn-Y6jm9M2KyJsDTFfe0PjD6_q0bpqqRkXQe0C3fbf6mGxjBYWw9SVo/" width="640" /><br />
We mingled with all the young and beautiful people in Mindl Beach markets where we sampled spring rolls and a fruit salad and Janet bought some more earrings, as normal.<br />
But there were a few new stall types:<br />
Eco-Nappies. Actual cloth nappies you don’t have to throw away. Well who’d have thought of that? But they do come in colours other than white.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6723_2-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y7w_dZHO65Y/VBqFd6-OwNI/AAAAAAAAN_c/t8_wJbjvHtI/IMG_6723_2-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
And the <a href="http://ismashed.com/">iSmashed.com</a> stall where you can have your broken iPhone screen replaced in 30 mins for only $149. 2 guys twiddling miniature screwdrivers on microscopic screws from a magnetic pad, but there’s probably more to it than that.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6718_2-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhawV04IJz6DmRUVYZp-Nw6daoy7SorHRGdUSaX0R-9fGVQZHirtJ_Bz0gOVL2zGiIWnHLWzUr6HC4ALL3K-YLoOsyws7TWrdA1PYFpVZfLGLVMrenY1_f-fRCd-T9LOQdTpBubRaILMF7M/" width="640" /><br />
Halfway through, everyone departed over the sand dune to the beach and just sat there looking.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6734-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IHj0o3CF0aE/VBqGYIQvZXI/AAAAAAAAOCU/H3OwQ5bgwbQ/IMG_6734-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6733-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5ERDJbUMADQ/VBqH6-42YVI/AAAAAAAAOHk/p50QXkS2nuc/IMG_6733-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
At this, more photons from outer space. Moisture and smoke which hangs in the Darwin air always causes spectacularly colourful photons:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6739-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CJsqlmZMCok/VBqJNLo0IbI/AAAAAAAAOLk/nOGjGugnkhY/IMG_6739-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6744-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TgekcmG2SuM/VBqGw_WJQlI/AAAAAAAAODk/HGb-s5aHcMM/IMG_6744-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Our last Darwin sunset, for a while:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6754_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xn7615NH1KM/VBqHe2zJ6sI/AAAAAAAAOF8/yaLzVMFjNYg/IMG_6754_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
After the ball was over we drove back to our our Manton Dam Campsite for the night, which is on the way to Litchfield NP anyway.<br />
We’d spent 6 days in the Darwin area at a camping cost of $0, but it did cost around $50 in additional fuel costs. So we had an extra $200 to spend on other things.<br />
When we got to know the new Darwin a bit better there are still good things to see and do in Darwin that don’t cost a fortune, but caravan parks and street parking are not ones of them.<br />
We liked the Stokes Hill Wharf, the Esplanade, the Deckchair Cinema, the Museum and Art Gallery, East Point Military Reserve, Coolalinga Shopping Centre, the Mindl Beach Markets and Cullen Bay. On previous trips we also liked the Aviation Heritage Museum, Casuarina Shopping Centre, the ferry to Mandorah and Fannie Bay beach.<br />
<strong>1 Sept</strong><br />
This morning we took the Old Bynoe Road west to the Litchfield Park road to cut off the corner. It was so old some of it has disappeared and we had to do a bit of skilful navigating to get on the correct road.<br />
We stopped to lower the tyre pressures for the 40km or so of gravel on the back road to Litchfield since it was a lot more corrugated than we recall from previous trips.<br />
We called in at a couple of sites where magnetic termite mounds had been built, flat on the east/west side and thin on the north/south side to minimise the heat from the sun.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6767-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_ANpp1ns9Wc/VBqJhvwwF9I/AAAAAAAAOMU/P2MiqQSO2H4/IMG_6767-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_6774-6775-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="231" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hrS9dVvdzYk/VBqJYiZtYVI/AAAAAAAAOL8/5UvLtGjXd6Y/IMG_6774-6775-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
We checked one out and it was built exactly magnetic N/S within a degree or 2, to minimise solar heating. Moreover, the mounds were slightly curved, and leaned towards the west to further minimise solar radiation since the sun is more powerful later in the day. Damn clever these termites.<br />
Photo taken at 10.30am. By noon the mound would be almost exactly in line with the sun.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6764-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-34ZVUgvdIWk/VBqFU6PQdOI/AAAAAAAAN-0/GM28NqNiTW0/IMG_6764-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
Further on we stopped for lunch at Walkers Creek where Janet dangled her toes in the creek.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6782-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S4TWEXAkIAs/VBqFOvU-FoI/AAAAAAAAN-c/Zsz7FXsC1wo/IMG_6782-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
We arrived at the Wangi Falls campground in the early afternoon (only $6.60 each and excellent facilities, plus a pretty good water feature out the back), but by then it was fiercely hot, so a quick swim in the pool was called for.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6804-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UlKWk5rs5pI/VBqJlMJdDrI/AAAAAAAAOMc/fnAXxUkDAjo/IMG_6804-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="481" /><br />
Me relaxing in the warm water:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6791-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gU3WwhXynTY/VBqI4eF4JoI/AAAAAAAAOKs/kbXzSMIIb7Q/IMG_6791-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
In the wet season the whole of this rock face would be covered in a raging torrent and hidden by spray (I’ve seen the photos), but it’s comforting that the park authorities are fairly certain there are no salties in the pool now (like there was last year and they had to close the pool for swimming 3 weeks after they declared it free of salties). But they still maintain crocodile traps in the creeks.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6794-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uEsbjDtcM44/VBqGTZ5pwHI/AAAAAAAAOCE/z2M-7fsQWx0/IMG_6794-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
Flying Foxes (fruit bats) were roosting in the trees around the pool.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6797-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oF0jHyjp_Yk/VBqFvKqdeHI/AAAAAAAAOAU/bXWQgpL3d-c/IMG_6797-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="IMG_6797_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="479" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-G98UHj6DmSI/VBqIU_omJtI/AAAAAAAAOIs/Vb2hcLIjsrk/IMG_6797_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
After our swim we had a $5 ice cream from the kiosk and chatted to a girl from Finland who was working there. She’d only been in Oz for a couple of months and was feeling the heat. She was cleaning out a freezer cabinet so we said “Why don’t you jump in it, you’ll feel at home?”. We repaired to the Oka for a cold beer since it was way past I don’t care when and I needed a cold drink.<br />
Bower birds mimicked and whirred their noisy songs all around us.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6807-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2LXCejxTBNI/VBqFLt0LXyI/AAAAAAAAN-U/l9TlxTFoH3g/IMG_6807-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
We had a nice tuna salad outside tonight since it was so hot, followed by strawberries and cr ème anglaise (custard) with red wine (since I’ve finished up all the white stuff), and we played our Farm Day music and reminisced about music practices. Maybe the bower birds will start mimicking our Farm Day music?<br />
Just on dusk, thousands of lying foxes left their roost around the pool and made their way silently overhead to wherever they go to feed at night. Smaller bats flitted around below treetop height catching some, but definitely not all the bugs which were/are annoying us.<br />
Whilst sitting out in the still of the evening, a black feral pig clomped and snuffling its way noisily passed our campsite looking for food scraps. There was an advisory notice about it on the way in and rangers have being trying to catch it. But we caught an image of the beast as it passed by our campsite for a second time. They are heavy creatures and can be dangerous if cornered.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6815-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="478" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jmODXNyDS88/VBqHFzB2o8I/AAAAAAAAOEk/EcuKj_HFZIQ/IMG_6815-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<strong>2 Sept</strong><br />
We went for a morning swim in the falls again since it got quite hot quite early but it’s not as good as in the later afternoon. The sun casts shade over the falls and most of the lake, there are fewer people about and the water seems a bit cooler in the mornings.<br />
After packing up we drove out to the highway and down a corrugated track to the Blyth Homestead. It was built as an outstation on the Stapleton Station in 1928 and housed 2 adults who eventually had 14 children there.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6826-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uYtNuxjXucw/VBqEGU_01aI/AAAAAAAAN6s/Df7JELZsZBI/IMG_6826-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="IMG_6827-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Kz-1JQu_6GU/VBqE6EwKwpI/AAAAAAAAN9c/AUWTmTYb47s/IMG_6827-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The mother schooled the children and was cook on the main property, the father who was fiercely independent, ran the rural aspects and the elder children ran the market gardens alongside the creek and a tin mine near the small homestead. It was a tough life and none of the children left the homestead or saw anyone else or knew what money was until their early 20’s, they just worked for their father almost as slaves and for no pay.<br />
Mining tin was extremely hard work, they dug down 27 feet and then tunnelled outwards following the tin seam. Tin ore is heavy stuff, the large normal rock on the left weighs 22kg, the smaller lump of glittery tin ore in the centre weighs 43kg.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6823-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivas4Ggm3BblUi7QJx5hJCPF8YS8EU2EdvZckxs7731k88lBidLJx3VPGrq0Oc_xRpNBRzaqYD8dYzDCO-mJncx4CCIy7nySYw2b7ONL3r65oLCdFXteW1F_WHQjwfDQDWs4dCeqO5E2LQ/" width="640" /><br />
Then they had to break it up manually with large hammers, then pass it though several ore crushers and sluice the fine dust with water through hollowed out logs to sieve out the tin.<br />
Still, their father had the right idea about useful scraps of old iron:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6824-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PZI5E4PQ_lI/VBqHRpG9ZhI/AAAAAAAAOFM/k1CnGgcsIN0/IMG_6824-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
During the war they had a bit of excitement when a Japanese plane was shot down nearby and they got some useful info from it for the intelligence services.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6825-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bZa4vdoH1AU/VBqFFtVRp0I/AAAAAAAAN98/7Lxm8ClgLPc/IMG_6825-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
We had lunch at the homestead, which was much easier than mining tin, and then moved on to the Sandy Creek (Tjaynera) Falls for an afternoon swim.<br />
However, there was a tough little 1.7km walk to the falls so we were pretty hot when we got there and the water was colder but more refreshing than Wangi Falls.<br />
Janet taking a dip in the pool:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6834-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lyzSxrhpZ_E/VBqE-FpxreI/AAAAAAAAN9s/wzcdDpt7zUs/IMG_6834-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="IMG_6837-6838_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ByrCluqATDE/VBqIXYpzZNI/AAAAAAAAOI0/3NtH2HRlHMQ/IMG_6837-6838_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="378" /><br />
Since it was getting late we decided to camp here but it’s not the best campsite around, for the same cost as the Wangi Falls campsite there is no rubbish collection so there are bags of garbage all around and only one loo with a cold water shower. But it will do for one night.<br />
<strong>3 Sept</strong><br />
Not such a good day today. Visited the Tolmer Falls but they weren’t that impressive with little water flowing over them.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6852-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Sc912miESr4/VBqErZ1RqqI/AAAAAAAAN8k/sE4dFCmDZgY/IMG_6852-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
There is a nice rock arch though which water would come in the wet season with a substantial force.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6854-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AjGcmxTTypo/VBqHo91lEuI/AAAAAAAAOGs/mFtlPHU_vtY/IMG_6854-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
We bypassed Buley Rockholes since there were a lot of tour busses in there and we’ve done it all before and headed out to Batchelor for lunch, and access to the internet for the first time in several days.<br />
There was a message from Scott who had arrived in Split (Croatia) all OK and with Tash they’re starting their European vacation/honeymoon, so that was a positive.<br />
After lunch we set out for some WW11 airstrips that we’d been to before for another look around and somewhere to stay. However I got extremely angry that they were now in private hands with locked and barred fences and gates so we couldn’t visit them anymore. So much for the NT government’s much proclaimed WW11 Heritage campaign. Their multi-coloured signboards still show Fenton Air Base as a W11 Heritage Site:<br />
<img alt="Heritage1-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fRk26W17Ld4/VBqHln0WnUI/AAAAAAAAOGc/nNKWoSH61xQ/Heritage1-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
Fenton in particular was my favourite with a graveyard of broken and wrecked aircraft to fossick through and runways to drive down. Sadly this is a trend all over the NT with WW11 memorabilia being lost for ever.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6856-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-shy5YiOVvLc/VBqH-NHIomI/AAAAAAAAOHs/Llj_D2--Qr8/IMG_6856-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
And for good measure the countryside around here is shit as well, all burned out and looking terrible. Much the same all over the top end so no more top end for us for a while. We’ll stick to deserts. You can’t burn deserts.<br />
With this frame of mind I wasn’t about to stay in any Big4 crapsite so we turned off the highway at Hayes Creek to an historic mining pub (Grove Hill Hotel) and are camped out the back for $Big4/3. Very outback as it happens with country style showers and loos in tin sheds.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6857-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FRg_yg0H_bk/VBqHa7jQZKI/AAAAAAAAOFs/_3QZqz4PzWg/IMG_6857-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
And our wine stocks from Adelaide have finally run out after 6 weeks. I knew I should have filled another jerry can.<br />
Tomorrow we’ll trundle down an historic mining area through the Bonnie Ranges to Pine Creek and thence to Edith Falls to camp.<br />
<strong>4 Sept,</strong> my grandma would have been 132 today.<br />
And down we trundled on a very smooth gravel road to Pine Creek and since we made such good time we carried on trundling to Edith Falls for lunch.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6859-6860-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="276" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QmWblK57WZY/VBqETMQzvxI/AAAAAAAAN7U/1VdJ4r7YnOo/IMG_6859-6860-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
It’s quite a few years since we’ve been here and it’s quite nice so for $18 we are camping here for a swim or 2 in the pool. The falls have very little water flowing since we are getting towards the end of the dry season and a huge gravelly sandbar has emerged from the depths, swept up by wet season storms:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6862-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Uak931m1VfE/VBqIA10wLKI/AAAAAAAAOH0/0HxEj8eU3hE/IMG_6862-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The water was cool and dark and you can imagine all sorts of creatures from the deep rising up to do unspeakable things to your appendages:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6875-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-S_16rnhrqpo/VBqH1LFV4TI/AAAAAAAAOHU/W01Fe9fm-rE/IMG_6875-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
As it happens after my swim I was leaning on a bridge, as you do, looking at the Edith Creek:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6864-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q0IY_Wh-ecM/VBqIjrnZYzI/AAAAAAAAOJk/N9K6w40Kkfk/IMG_6864-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
When something caught my eye:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6865-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8oxpBosS_e8/VBqF3KuT91I/AAAAAAAAOAs/i0ieCsj2mz8/IMG_6865-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
A crocodile trap had been subtly set up the creek. It’s either very encouraging or very worrying that they have to set up such things. At least it was empty, and that’s a good thing, I suppose.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6873-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m9gLn7jYA2A/VBqJVJzyPwI/AAAAAAAAOL0/G53Q06NGBr8/IMG_6873-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
There was a report in yesterday’s paper of a man being bitten by a fresh water croc only last month in Wangi Falls in Litchfield NP, where we were a few days ago. They had to close the swimming area while rangers caught and removed the offending creature. Last year they found a saltie in there too...<br />
<strong>5 Sept</strong><br />
A cool night but there were a couple of small kangaroos with joeys feeding in the campground early this morning.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6878_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JgVNGVU6Ec0/VBqGj0JzmhI/AAAAAAAAOC8/14DerqM-HpE/IMG_6878_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="IMG_6880_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0wrgNpDqrSI/VBqEbk-YJuI/AAAAAAAAN7s/6zRUmiFPt3k/IMG_6880_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="IMG_6881_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wGZCb50xkhw/VBqIFBoQm-I/AAAAAAAAOH8/ryQbyvFyRIc/IMG_6881_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
By 8 am the sun and the flies had both risen as we ate breakfast outside, rather quickly actually.<br />
By 10.30 it was hot and we reached Katherine and sought out the laundromat. While the washing was well, washing, we went to refill a gas bottle. While the washing was drying we had lunch and when it was all folded and put away we headed for the supermarket for a week’s supplies and 220l of fuel.<br />
Things I hate about Katherine (and many other places which do the same thing):<br />
a) Having to pay to go to the loo in the shopping centre ($1).<br />
b) Having to pay for a shopping trolley ($1 or $2 although you do get it back upon return of the trolley, but it’s still a drag).<br />
c) Having to queue for 10 minutes to pay for groceries, when there are lots of empty checkouts. And the trashy magazines on the stands just make the time go even slower.<br />
c) Having to pay for water at the visitors centre ($2 for 5 minutes on the hosepipe, easily 100 litres). Although we could have got it for free at the servo but it’s not so convenient.<br />
[Interestingly, I spelled “ALthough” with a capital “AL” and the spell checker offered “Although” as an alternative obviously, but also “donut”. Why?]<br />
Heading off down the highway we realised that we had missed out the bottle shop so our 1 can of beer and 2 cans of cider will have to last several days. Still, I did put a bottle of sherry in the fridge since sherry at 40º doesn’t have the same effect somehow. Might have to do the same with the port although we don’t seem to have much of that left now. We still have 1/2 a bottle of Serge’s red wine left which is also in the fridge. Is there a trend emerging here?<br />
d) Having to wait until the bottle shops open in the afternoon and then only getting 1 or 2 litre casks at 5 litre cask prices, which we forgot anyway.<br />
Camped tonight at the Leach Lagoon Rest Area, 50km SE of Katherine. However there is no sign of a lagoon here, which is <em>tanto montare</em> to misleading advertising.<br />
<strong>6 Sept</strong><br />
One of our favourite swimming spots in all the world is Bitter Springs creek in Elsey National Park just 50km down from our campsite.<br />
The water there is incredibly deep, clear and warm (33º all the year round) and it’s in a natural tropical wetlands area of pandanus and palm trees. Steps have been added to reduce erosion of the creek banks. Because the water is high in minerals and low in oxygen very few creature live in it making swimming a real pleasure, and it’s free.<br />
Me lazing around in the warm water:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6889-6895-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rAQpJRDMB6c/VBqEZIxS8zI/AAAAAAAAN7k/Z83SdOXAAwU/IMG_6889-6895-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="602" /><br />
You can swim/drift about 100m along the creek through a primordial swamp to a bridge and exit point. Janet found it too warm for a long swim.<br />
The palms here are the kind that dinosaurs fed on, in fact you can still see their bite marks on the leaves.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-07at8.00.46pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="426" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CcuOB0wySoI/VBqHBfufD5I/AAAAAAAAOEU/lQGCGhYFbDA/ScreenShot2014-09-07at8.00.46pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
After lunch we checked our emails at Mataranka and turned east on the Roper Highway heading for the Limmen NP about 200km away near coast of the Gulf of Carpentaria.<br />
The road is a single lane piece of bitumen which I find more annoying than all gravel roads as you are continually slowing down and putting 2 wheels in the dirt to pass other vehicles.<br />
Anyway, 70km down is a nice rest area (Mt Price) with a large mountain of rock in the centre that you can hide behind and be protected from other campers (there were none) and traffic noise (of which there was none all night).<br />
What there was however, was a pair of donkeys who put up a terrible racket for about 10 minutes while we were eating dinner outside in the dark and scared us sh*tless. <br />
<strong>7 Sept,</strong> my LXIX birthday<br />
This time last year we were at an Oka gathering in Harrismith, SE of Perth, and the weather was cold and wet. Today we had our hottest day on this trip so far, the external thermometer read 40.1º but it felt hotter than that in the Oka. Fortunately the a/c is working fairly well and there are several lily lagoons along the road which make things feel cooler even if they’re not.<br />
We stopped off for a look at Roper Bar, a man-made concrete causeway across the Roper River. Nice and calm now but impassable in the wet season.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6932-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rAHGb64exAM/VBqEI5wyfXI/AAAAAAAAN60/jynCVpTjxkU/IMG_6932-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
A family of Aboriginals were having a fun day out in the water which is safe to swim in around the causeway.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-07at8.39.07pm-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="398" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fclG_KEDajI/VBqEoyGAc_I/AAAAAAAAN8c/Vt8ats43z1U/ScreenShot2014-09-07at8.39.07pm-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
We stopped at a lagoon we had camped near before for lunch and to check our emails.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6945-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-eob2uelQTpc/VBqG6l79yyI/AAAAAAAAOD8/8d24BMXAiKk/IMG_6945-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
This area is not noted for it’s mobile coverage but just near here, on the other bank of the Roper River is the Aboriginal community of Ngukurr and we piggy backed on to their Telstra network.<br />
I had the usual gaggle of birthday emails from all the websites I subscribe to plus one from Charles and Fred in the UK and a message from Scott who is in Rome and just as we were leaving a call from Alan. Soon after we were out of range again so apologies to those who might have sent messages but we’ll collect them when we are next in phone range, probably Tennant Creek in a few days time.<br />
We passed by a number of brand new campgrounds in the NP, none of which had any campers in and made for St Vidgeons, the ruins of a former Lomarieum (don’t know what that is but it sounds serious if it has to be as isolated as this). The usual Aussie disregard for authority was evident:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6955-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="640" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NSWRUgVEfyo/VBqHcTpnXiI/AAAAAAAAOF0/7rIisssL2FE/IMG_6955-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="501" /><br />
The main attraction here however is the nearby huge lily filled lagoon with plenty of camping opportunities (but no swimming due to croc risk), so since it was so hot today and there’s a nice cool breeze blowing here, we are camped alongside it.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6956-6959-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="140" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wdYpKmsV4HY/VBqEDjmMaXI/AAAAAAAAN6k/biGPbU1xpbA/IMG_6956-6959-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
Water lily leaves with turned up edges:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7005-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rn_lBuwhodk/VBqExvzazYI/AAAAAAAAN88/FKlJtwdfc9U/IMG_7005-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Tall water lilies on the far side:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7008-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="382" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h-I0o355YVA/VBqItyQlmEI/AAAAAAAAOKM/ut-wkbqygy0/IMG_7008-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
A duck in cunning disguise:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7015-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="478" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JQJmCNZcuRE/VBqGZ_baBVI/AAAAAAAAOCc/CiIOz9g83lY/IMG_7015-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Relaxing in the cool breeze on a very hot 40º day:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6971-6973-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="405" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4mJSBRHmlsA/VBqEiMqMXSI/AAAAAAAAN8E/jlsTKmW6C1Y/IMG_6971-6973-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
We took memorial photos of the birthday drinks, dinner (tuna salad) and dessert, just as the sun was setting:<br />
<img alt="IMG_6974-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QBruEc1leQg/VBqIgIfQ8sI/AAAAAAAAOJU/XIJevS2K3_Y/IMG_6974-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Dessert consisted of strawberries and yoghurt for Janet, and strawberries, custard and slices of Mars Bar (because it’s my birthday and they were my pressie) for me.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6975-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LsCetHUYYNw/VBqFcKEbOwI/AAAAAAAAN_U/VPW5VKN1VSM/IMG_6975-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The sunset over the lagoon was pretty special too.<br />
<img alt="IMG_6983-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LsFvgUVhEyU/VBqGmXZOXEI/AAAAAAAAODE/sxtDPvmzufI/IMG_6983-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<strong>8 Sept</strong><br />
Today is Charles LXX birthday, <br />
Happy birthday Charles, we celebrated your anniversary with an ice cold glass of sherry under a full moon on a warm evening in the Southern Lost City in Limmen National Park.<br />
We left St Vidgeons still ignorant of the meaning of “Lomarieum” (the informative plaques had all been burnt out), and motored down the worsening track to the Towns River. There is an excellent campsite there and the river always looks beautiful and inviting…<br />
<img alt="IMG_7021-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tJ6pp4lgHWA/VBqImAR4urI/AAAAAAAAOJs/arkY0Ig_y18/IMG_7021-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7018-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Go_KhhTth3s/VBqIH3gF4EI/AAAAAAAAOIE/XriutvoWDHQ/IMG_7018-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7026-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-r7Bxqiud-5E/VBqG-eZxnaI/AAAAAAAAOEM/N6QE3ZAlxeA/IMG_7026-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
From there to the Cox River Crossing the corrugations got worse so we stopped for lunch just past the crumbling causeway and 3 guys (1 English from Guildford and 2 Germans) in a petrol Pajero with no A/C pulled up and asked if they were still on the Savannah Way. Well there’s only one road in the area so we are all on it.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-12at6.21.08pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="463" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QKpK3TY1gbs/VBqHf9Ap2TI/AAAAAAAAOGA/46LanPjKCuc/ScreenShot2014-09-12at6.21.08pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
They were heading for Cairns but only had a flimsy paper map and were amazed at our moving map system. We had a chat for while about the availability of LPG in Borroloola and it seemed to us they were ill prepared for such a trip, one of the roughest tracks across the top of Australia, we’ve done it several times. Still, they were young and nothing much worried them.<br />
The Cox River where they were going to do some fishing.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7044-7046-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="283" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7zf2Y36V4Yc/VBqJBEOg7VI/AAAAAAAAOLE/ym0auxuDqqE/IMG_7044-7046-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
On the way further south, we came across these confusing signs:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7042-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="478" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BvhMKOWjfmI/VBqF5DOjm-I/AAAAAAAAOA0/kshQ12wxWf4/IMG_7042-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
It turns out we were crossing a mining company haul road from/to an iron ore mine. But this is in the middle of a National Park! What is happening in the NT? This is not the first time we’ve come across this on this trip (there are new mine sites all along the Roper Highway and there has been a uranium mine in Kakadu National Park for many years) and they seem to be putting economics ahead of any environmental considerations. <br />
<img alt="IMG_7043-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTBzgPyi740I2431hCEazKcth7ED254VuA04Eudw4-kIBqdfj2aAlMiwl1MHRTZ2c_eO5-Z33jSFIqoFLUxeCxkcqDcq-IFrHcbuZrRuVQuEYIHVNljGt1rTenPawNQ-m0pRlx521fcc6p/" width="640" /><br />
We called in at Butterfly Springs where we have swum before (the only place where it’s safe to do so) but this year the pool is almost dried up and the waterfall has long since stopped flowing.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7049-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oN_O3s3xsM8/VBqIrvY9vDI/AAAAAAAAOKE/f-jaUTUp9yQ/IMG_7049-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
There was a water monitor clinging to the side of the rock sunning himself:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7052-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eOeYnMUIE-M/VBqGftCs7FI/AAAAAAAAOCw/gRuIReeK6ag/IMG_7052-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
We are camped tonight at the Southern Lost City, an amazing place of crazy leaning rock formations which we’ll have a look around early tomorrow morning before it gets too hot.<br />
<strong>9 Sept</strong><br />
We did our morning walk and most of the area had been burnt out. However that was a bit different and allowed a better view of the rock formations.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7086-7088-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="212" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lUfhJFY_v5Y/VBqF8pFUqrI/AAAAAAAAOA8/51wnz-F-PAM/IMG_7086-7088-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7063-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1-iiVi5gywo/VBqHkRWikOI/AAAAAAAAOGU/zQuAIOikXsw/IMG_7063-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7079-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_HVE5qOOEp_GPLkndgjY3omGXN_DdUHlYIx9kAMJdbaUHkOC0lSmwIYuQbUJ3R6_aGF8Mzr60sc-Da_UCSk-FzlTq0p4w3Y3byLMVn-leRlXan18F1P6eWpLVyonej8Twx5D76Y4WEFyD/" width="480" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7072-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-05JLOR3Ox4M/VBqELgeMr5I/AAAAAAAAN68/51hbOX7hR6U/IMG_7072-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
After our 7am walk, the clouds were burned away by the sun and it started getting very hot so a shower was called for. The wire in the large antenna got very tangled up as I was lowering it and I couldn’t get it apart in the hot morning sun so I left it until later to sort out.<br />
Then the A/C stopped working on the way down the track so we stopped to fix it at Batten Creek. The compressor fuse blew and a few minutes after I replaced it the replacement also blew.<br />
I confirmed that the compressor was working OK and found that one of the connections on the pressure switch on the front condenser was causing the problem (something on that other wire was dragging the voltage down from 12 to 9 so it’s a heavy current partial short circuit which slowly blows the 30A fuse) but not the additional fan I had fitted, so I replaced the cable from the switch to the compressor and all was OK again, I thought, so we had lunch.<br />
The original evaporator fans wasn’t working on that circuit so I assumed that might have been the problem but possibly not. A few minutes later the rear A/C didn’t seem to be working indicating that the solenoid allowing cooling fluid to the rear evaporator wasn’t functioning and then the rear fans stopped working as well presumably a fuse problem too, but maybe a thermal cutout issue since it was OK the next morning. <br />
Rather than buggerise around any more we carried on using the front A/C only and one condenser fan, which was just up to the job, and I’ll investigate further tomorrow in the cool of the morning.<br />
The Nathan River Road through the Limmen NP got gradually and very frustratingly rough and corrugated as we drove south and we could barely manage 30kph. And there were quite a few creek crossings and causeways to negotiate.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-10at7.22.38am-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="446" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KLapIRc-6DQ/VBqGMGM2lwI/AAAAAAAAOBs/0KaEpvMxUx4/ScreenShot2014-09-10at7.22.38am-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
When we got to what I thought was the Carpentaria Highway and a bitumen road, I was sadly 50km out of place and it took another hour to reach the relative comfort of the Cape Crawford Road and Tablelands Highway.<br />
These are sealed roads but only a single lane and very undulating to the point of seasickness. Eventually after 2 hours of lonely driving though reasonably attractive cattle country and “<em>hill covered trees</em>”*, we reached a rest area only to find several other caravans already here, but here we will stay after a long gruelling day in the saddle. This road, although sealed, is very rough and narrow and not really suited to caravans. It’s also nearly 400km between fuel stops.<br />
* Janet didn’t see anything wrong with this statement.<br />
There was a nice looking big windmill along side the rest area with a water tank.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7092-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zhJbaJu-86s/VBqHDUdxM6I/AAAAAAAAOEc/0zKV6Nc0GbI/IMG_7092-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
We sat outside but the cicadas were absolutely deafening, like severe tinnitus turned up 100dB.<br />
<strong>10 Sept</strong><br />
The “nice looking” windmill woke us up several times in the night with it’s screeching and rattling as the breeze varied from nothing to light.<br />
Fairly uneventful today if you exclude the indicators which stopped working. That turned out to be a fuse with dirty connections which I refitted yesterday. A quick clean up and all OK again.<br />
There was the usual Aussie humour(?) along the way…<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-10at11.54.34am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="567" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3OrzWZ8I0WA/VBqHmLVRuLI/AAAAAAAAOGk/mIEkcwEVPc0/ScreenShot2014-09-10at11.54.34am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
And a couple of reminders of just how big this country is:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7093-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JGqfTOmY0Pk/VBqF_Aiq7OI/AAAAAAAAOBE/VQxn4cDyKhw/IMG_7093-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-10at11.51.59am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="430" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7MTer6rsoeg/VBqFXjiJCVI/AAAAAAAAN_E/DXLUQmgSkGc/ScreenShot2014-09-10at11.51.59am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
Just endless vistas of dry Mitchell Grass from horizon to horizon.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-11at6.45.48am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="322" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G27dLD6431s/VBqE7ZvX5BI/AAAAAAAAN9k/_dB9_vD9sBM/ScreenShot2014-09-11at6.45.48am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
The front A/C worked pretty well during the morning session but struggled in the 36º heat this afternoon. Tomorrow I’ll check if the rear solenoid is the faulty item and if not, I’ll rig up a connection from the compressor so we can use both systems again.<br />
325km today over the single lane, undulating Tablelands Highway south to the Barkly Highway and a fairly crummy but just adequate rest area about 150km east of Tennant Creek.<br />
<strong>11 Sept</strong>, anniversary of 9/11.<br />
This morning I tested the rear a/c solenoid and it appears to be OK so I wired it in to the compressor circuit and both front and rear a/c systems now seem to be working, but I am keenly anticipating disappointment. The solenoid should actually be connected to the rear fan switch so it only comes on when the rear fans are on but that will have to wait until I can find the right wire.<br />
The remaining 150km 0f the Barkly Highway were fairly forgettable but we were quite surprised by Tennant Creek. It’s a mostly Aboriginal town but unlike many similar towns, the locals were more friendly and approachable and many of them are working in supermarkets or similar.<br />
Grog limitations are still annoying though, only low/mid strength beer before 3pm and no cask wine before 4pm, and nothing after 6pm. Anyway we got some beer and cider which will do us until we get to Alice.<br />
We checked our emails and called Mark, all is well in Adelaide. We called Troy who is house sitting for us and arranged our homecoming on 20 Sept. We also had a message from Scott and Tash who are in Rome. They just went to St Peter’s Basilica and the Colosseum tomorrow and are loving their European vacation.<br />
After refuelling and refooding at a very expensive (except for veggies surprisingly) IGA in Tennant Creek we drove down the very quiet Stuart Highway to a small track we found several years ago about 70km south of Tennant Creek, and are camping about 1k off the highway.<br />
Very hot again today, 36º but the A/C is working fine, but I sense the temperature trend will now be downwards.<br />
<strong>12 Sept</strong><br />
The drive today took us past the Devils Marbles, always a good place to stop and frolic amongst huge stone boulders.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7094-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-bTXyToZBID8/VBqHK2yneeI/AAAAAAAAOE0/iURuOraSR14/IMG_7094-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7096-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hG-zqcOHibw/VBqJHWq_c_I/AAAAAAAAOLU/CV9r7AKh1Aw/IMG_7096-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7099-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Sse0y6NE6u8/VBqFZlZLOxI/AAAAAAAAN_M/X5pduKgiF78/IMG_7099-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
It also took us through Barrow Creek, the centre of the sad Peter Falconio murder and Joanne Lees assault some years ago (2001 actually).<br />
<strong>But has someone been reading my blog??</strong><br />
A couple of years ago I reported in these very pages that although Barrow Creek had a Telegraph Station as early as 1872 it didn’t have a mobile service in 2010. Well today, in 2014, I am able to report that Barrow Creek now has a new shiny phone tower and megawatts of solar power:<br />
The 1872 Telegraph Station and its contemporary high tech wiring system:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7119-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I8p59INhuw8/VBqEN46uMFI/AAAAAAAAN7E/nmd_5Wu5780/IMG_7119-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The 2014 mobile phone tower and solar farm:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7123-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uYEUKEvE60s/VBqHsi0QuRI/AAAAAAAAOG8/AoOP5BGRbYU/IMG_7123-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="478" /><br />
On the section of the Stuart Highway south of Barrow Creek, the speed limit has been de-restricted, in fact removed all together, it’s an “<em>open speed zone</em>”.<br />
So this road could be one of the very few places in the world where you can legally travel at 500kph, (or more if you had the technology) and it’s not an <em>autobahn</em> or an <em>autostrada</em> or a freeway <em></em>in Dubai, it’s just the main 2 lane connecting highway between north and south Australia. This section is around 40km, dead straight.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7126-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_DpFK-Nva7U/VBqIaGrWLVI/AAAAAAAAOI8/WRHzrTMOloI/IMG_7126-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-13at8.59.15am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="451" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FFnhO-WALcA/VBqIhNlTvnI/AAAAAAAAOJc/2UKjFUQNw58/ScreenShot2014-09-13at8.59.15am-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-13at9.02.46am_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="353" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7r2RVPFhDw0/VBqFQOTCrsI/AAAAAAAAN-k/miBDk2FU2Mk/ScreenShot2014-09-13at9.02.46am_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
But as you accelerate though the 200kph point you are required to read this informative sign. We couldn’t even read it at 70kph.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-13at8.57.50am_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="457" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Og4ahwbC58o/VBqITuTN8nI/AAAAAAAAOIk/xJe9NQyMR4U/ScreenShot2014-09-13at8.57.50am_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
Althoiugh, it does have several 30 or 40km long dead straight sections, it’s not all straight, and because of the speed potential, bends are supplied with copious arrows. The average is around 12 per bend, but this long slow bend has 33 double sided arrows to guide speeding motorists around the corner:<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-13at9.03.12am_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="357" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PtL_l3Yca3M/VBqEvXKtO9I/AAAAAAAAN80/GajqKf32MsI/ScreenShot2014-09-13at9.03.12am_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
And continuing with the motoring theme, another notable thing of note that happened today was that our odometer passed the 700,000km point, of which we’ve done around 170,000 of them on our travels over the past 10 years. We’ve now lived in our Oka for nearly 3 years total out of the past 10, that’s over 1000 campsites on tracks which have criss-crossed the country.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7114-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0PcBgQK0jnc/VBqGejMkc6I/AAAAAAAAOCs/m7E1eDNyxxE/IMG_7114-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Mind you the reading is a bit academic since I manually reset the readout to a random value when we had the odometer replaced in 2004 after we bought the Oka and it wasn’t working . The actual reading could be +/_100,000km from the current reading, and even that 100,000km estimate could be wrong too…<br />
We are camped tonight at Prowse Gap rest area, a reasonably OK rest stop about 150km north of the Alice, and the temperature is dropping as the number of flies increases.<br />
<strong>13 Sept</strong><br />
I made a pot of tea this morning as is usual, and I’m amazed how well I can consistently and accurately underestimate how much water is needed in the kettle. You’d think after all this time I would know and adjust my tap control process accordingly.<br />
From our commendably average Prowse Gap campsite the drive into Alice was a lot more interesting than the previous 1000km. Some wild flowers were in bloom but not as many as previous years and the landscape was more hilly and tinged with green.<br />
It was also noticeably cooler as befitting our no longer tropical latitude. We passed though the magic Tropic of Capricorn with barely a murmur.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7130_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="478" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oijfMXBLfBk/VBqHMqdNK_I/AAAAAAAAOE8/NttmGc0DQv8/IMG_7130_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7132_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vIZnP9x2lfQ/VBqFft8ERiI/AAAAAAAAN_k/7COXcgtAsbw/IMG_7132_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
After refooding, regassing, refueling and rewatering, we set off on the Ross Highway to Trephina Gorge for a day in a very nice area about 70km east of Alice in the East McDonnell Ranges..<br />
The setting sun burnt up the rock face above Trephina Creek.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7133_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I5IPhzWHSt4/VBqEkTF07XI/AAAAAAAAN8M/N9fQcBtpucw/IMG_7133_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<strong>14 Sept</strong><br />
And the sunrise also lit up the bluff:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7135-7136-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="227" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MDiEqz_U3nk/VBqHyL51ftI/AAAAAAAAOHM/xK_y5UlGv40/IMG_7135-7136-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
As proposed we did the 3km cliff-top walk today and it was quite a view.<br />
We are now almost exactly in the geographic centre of the Australian Continent and the sky hasn’t been this blue for a long time. It does’t have the impurities and water vapour in it that you get in tropical skies, just pure, unadulterated UV rays.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7163-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1AHKbgvS_hE/VBqH36nbgbI/AAAAAAAAOHc/CpsNEHzhTik/IMG_7163-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The gorge from the cliff-top walk.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7149-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-N9GPii5SS_c/VBqFkQG2VbI/AAAAAAAAN_0/Rbke4n6WFJA/IMG_7149-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7141-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dcOOe934KVA/VBqGzaFgJ8I/AAAAAAAAODs/tsqf0Ofo_aA/IMG_7141-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
After our hot walk we had a cooling shower and decided to stay here for the rest of the day since it was so peaceful and pleasant.<br />
As we were preparing tea, a dingo trotted along the creek bed to an old campfire area, picked up something, probably a chop bone, wandered back to a patch of grass and sat down to chomp it. She did this a couple of times and even circled us as we were eating our tea outside.<br />
She obviously knows where food is to be found, but feeding them is not encouraged or permitted as they can become demanding and aggressive, even though she did remind us too much of Bella.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7165_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU1YD15hhK0RvrDk0D6JE3eF2XnlQkVcy-YZct3D72v7MrcRfC02h5cDd_LUvEKd2Xo_wLfNdSTLCvv4XUEh2yWjgcLxXIrHE3T8nzwJnQtYgSaE7jnbc_WL7f6T4Z5CJxbmYAkd2ANoPQ/" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7168_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPMl5i-3QnSBIExOXh_pNUWvZQeTE_R_4cdPUGv30kEdHjpWp8Nf28w5keXCT4dm85uAAhJ7vMc8N7wMCB_8UcukXCT8UwoIQpDlwZ-rHcjCxU9TaxJ8Y1J_FpahdiCo9p7XhFsMTE2Wi-/" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7170_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD7h1jAWVY7IODkEa5RCju9O4w1Oq1IzcpQkbst61DxmdWdOVQJGOje3RCQaTX8R0z7vRPVD_Nt_RoOvKX1_D29pMpYMjgUgw36xZ6xmqc4gIy5Bjadp8IzoBRbav9Q_q5yxmYwghRkVU-/" width="640" /><br />
They may have the manner of a domestic dog but dingos are wild animals, descended from wolves, who have a well established position in the natural world as Australia’s dominant land predator. This status quo should not be disrupted since without them many introduced pests, particularly rabbits, would not be effectively controlled.<br />
So it’s sad to see so many 1080 warning signs all over the country indicating the planned and systematic destruction of an Australian native species using strychnine, a particularly nasty poison.<br />
Even worse is to see a tree adorned by the carcasses of dead dingos in trophy arrangement, which we’ve seen a few times. Imagine the outcry if you saw a tree full of the corpses of dead koalas?<br />
The 5000km long dingo proof fence which runs from the Queensland coast to the Great Australian Bight in South Australia is a much more responsible approach at problem management in sheep country. Unfortunately 1080 poison is cheaper.<br />
<strong>15 Sept</strong><br />
Leaving Trephina Gorge we went to see a nearby 300 year old Ghost Gum which is heritage listed. Ghost gums are common in the red centre, quite often on the side of red rocky cliffs.<br />
This one is growing on a flat plain and is quite spectacular, they don’t normally grow this large.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7174-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CXM5grwWw7g/VBqHUPbNZVI/AAAAAAAAOFU/tqoGsFKNw1E/IMG_7174-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
<br />
<img alt="IMG_7178-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-S4-dHGDhLyA/VBqJeXYSCJI/AAAAAAAAOMM/t21P6DS3a_g/IMG_7178-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7176-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0pOZaUXbHtc/VBqIwNxAkJI/AAAAAAAAOKU/UQsHsHdR8DU/IMG_7176-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
On the way back, we called in to Corroborree Rock, an Aboriginal sacred site:<br />
<img alt="IMG_7180-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ykLmTv5rhNg/VBqJKQaeheI/AAAAAAAAOLc/1srAzuA9K1c/IMG_7180-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7184-7185-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="303" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pCP7oYy6LVc/VBqGpQsPl3I/AAAAAAAAODM/u_z95NV21h4/IMG_7184-7185-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7189-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="478" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SI2Y3ahNmc4/VBqI9olxznI/AAAAAAAAOK8/p1POZ-BoCJg/IMG_7189-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The surrounding hills are dotted with ghost gums as if they’d been planted.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7187-7188-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="465" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sYad1SkFXAc/VBqHH9nXl-I/AAAAAAAAOEs/6aZ_s1V2-pI/IMG_7187-7188-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
Then it was back into the Alice, if she’ll excuse the expression, for more supplies and fuel, after which we bade her farewell and set off south, but not too far, about 100km, to Rainbow Valley.<br />
This is an ancient but spectacular set of rock formations which must be one of Australia’s best kept secrets. It’s protected by quite a tough 22km corrugated 4WD track in, but there are also some good walks to do and a campsite to boot, if only the flies weren’t so friendly.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7197-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEighwlC4RU6r3OOE6DwtnCgwKYoZoHyXreZds_jD7NVvOC6g-yeau0zfcn61AnVWrvovy_mEu2T-WySl0__w2SI92u2hCVYObpoYkZxsOfajwDXn9b18GHgsR3VWQa57gVb3AJ5WXnJxZia/" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7205-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yF8GiJALdjA/VBqEdrw9OmI/AAAAAAAAN70/zpAHFXvAVhw/IMG_7205-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7215-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sHyB6cy7Sig/VBqGsFESYRI/AAAAAAAAODU/ZWn0J0gLEew/IMG_7215-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
Along the boardwalk we startled a large lizard soaking up the warm sun.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7212_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XuB0p73Wrr0/VBqFtBJPzdI/AAAAAAAAOAM/F_Yr8eRAPXU/IMG_7212_1-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
The track to Rainbow Valley passes though a large grove of Desert Oaks and a carpet of wild flowers, but not as colourful or prolific as previous wetter years.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7193-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5FV5gmuMPkU/VBqGB6r56XI/AAAAAAAAOBM/YuRK95KA4DU/IMG_7193-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7196-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-26_hIBJplUM/VBqIdjBgfkI/AAAAAAAAOJM/F7DynhrmGQ8/IMG_7196-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<strong>16 Sept</strong><br />
Time now to start heading south seriously if we are to be home on Saturday. The SA border at Kulgera is the first step.<br />
We stopped at Erldunda to check emails but there were none of note. Quite a bit of traffic here but most was turning west towards Uluru.<br />
Passing the first and last pub in the NT at Kulgera and into SA, we met more quarantine signs than “Welcome to South Australia” signs, but at least we got a bit of warning on this one.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-16at5.25.09pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="475" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WYtsB439__4/VBqIxOZqeJI/AAAAAAAAOKY/aGeYMnAHUPI/ScreenShot2014-09-16at5.25.09pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
The traffic was almost non-existent for 80 odd km and the country appeared to be completely <em>terra nullis, </em>so much so that I contemplated emulating a certain Lt Cook and claiming this land a new country, called <em>SOD OFF</em> (South of Darwin On the Finke Floodplain), or maybe <em>SOD ALL</em> (South of Darwin All Lost and Lonely). For a brief moment I did consider <em>Foetid Utopian Colonial Kingdom</em> but I feared the spelling might prove too difficult for some citizens who might resort too easily to the abbreviated form.<br />
We saw <em>no caravans</em> at all and only one motorhome this afternoon. Did they know something and were staying up north in the warm?<br />
We passed 2 empty rest areas whereas normally at 3pm they’d be chockers with caravans vying for the best of the worst locations.<br />
After 320km today we have stopped at the Agnes River rest area where there was one camper trailer and a big bus towing a small 4WD, and camped near the nonexistent river amongst the maximum number of flies. Actually all rivers and creeks in northern Australia are real rivers, they are just upside down, dusty dry on the surface but deep down they are still moist, which is from where the river red gums extract their water through the dry seasons.<br />
<strong>17 Sept</strong><br />
411km today, basically down the very lonely Stuart Highway through Coober Pedy and into the arid treeless plains of mid South Australia.<br />
Coober Pedy was the same flat dusty terrain covered by neat mountains of white spoil from the opal diggings.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7248-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="216" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0Lz8rvlgCM0/VBqINc3yorI/AAAAAAAAOIU/cp4U6MsaZPs/IMG_7248-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7244-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="318" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wGaxYkr-iW8/VBqFCrG94aI/AAAAAAAAN90/rPIi7JMADqc/IMG_7244-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
We topped up our water tank from their very professional 20c per 30 litre slot meter public water pump (which is much better than their previous hose hanging on a wire fence model) and then carried on since we’ve seen dusty outback towns before.<br />
Leaving Coober Pedy, not a single “<em>Thank You for visiting Coober Pedy</em>” sign to be seen, every sign was facing the other way.<br />
<img alt="ScreenShot2014-09-17at5.45.08pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" height="330" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-_-oGFNetnVQ/VBqIbEopjOI/AAAAAAAAOJE/ktHqPAwuYQQ/ScreenShot2014-09-17at5.45.08pm-2014-09-14-07-32.jpg" width="640" /><br />
We camped last night at the “Major” Ingomar rest area, although quite why it’s so defined is a mystery. It has no toilets so the desperate have littered the rear of the site with paper products, it’s very exposed on the top of a bluff and isn’t very scenic anyway. No matter we (I) were knackered after 411km so it was fine for us, and we were the only occupants.<br />
<strong>18 Sept</strong><br />
Up with the larks or what ever to carry on down the Stuart Highway first to Glendambo (Population: People - 3, Sheep - 22,500, Flies - 2,000,000) for lunch and to check our emails, and then on to Lake Hart.<br />
This is a very pretty salt lake where there’s a 4WD a track we discovered several years ago from the new to the old highways and where camping is quite secluded.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7257-7260_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="203" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bBSvPYOnEtc/VBti0XI-aNI/AAAAAAAAONk/2lVW1y49ylE/IMG_7257-7260_1-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
The so called poached egg flower (Myriocephalus stuartii) which abound and all face the sun at the same time. They are paper daisies with everlasting (relatively) papery flowers.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7275-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9Fqa-MB9aek/VBtipeZCZVI/AAAAAAAAONM/b1XMhACUmwA/IMG_7275-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
We wandered down to the lake, and in the process crossed the Ghan/Indian Pacific rail line which skirts the lake edge. The lights were red and no trains came, so we walked along the track to tempt fate but fate wasn’t paying attention, fortunately. <br />
<img alt="IMG_7274-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="402" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-U_sve-fDngA/VBti29mpuzI/AAAAAAAAONs/KHrJxvXE54k/IMG_7274-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
There were emu and kangaroo prints in the salty edge of the lake.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7270-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-S_y9XxW-4w8/VBtivTJbGmI/AAAAAAAAONc/pohtSyoD4gU/IMG_7270-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7263-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MXesgmm_R9Q/VBtisFTQCUI/AAAAAAAAONU/A9AjNuhqbuU/IMG_7263-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
A stick and a moth frozen in ice and snow? No, captured in salt.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7266-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="480" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pjAyjR13hMM/VBtifxwR0JI/AAAAAAAAOM0/7gtq_J_CS7k/IMG_7266-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7267-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="640" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9LfN6665Va8/VBtijNNZ6MI/AAAAAAAAOM8/tgteCkSqq5M/IMG_7267-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="480" /><br />
With a few clouds around, the sunset was quite spectacular. Yes, I know they are only bloody photons, but they are very colourful photons, nonetheless.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7285-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9_E9zcbllJQ/VBtimFcNWII/AAAAAAAAONE/EkKUhpnuhBY/IMG_7285-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<img alt="IMG_7277-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8WEX46qknpc/VBti5jF_YSI/AAAAAAAAON0/LNxayLSnG6E/IMG_7277-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" width="640" /><br />
<strong>19 Sept</strong><br />
Our last day on the road, we should be home tomorrow morning.<br />
2 freight trains came past early this morning, from different directions. I wonder how that happens? There must be a nearby passing loop or railway roadhouse they can stop at.<br />
Unlike yesterday, today is a blazing blue sky day with a burning sun. Even a rusty exhaust system has a summery glow to it.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7298-2014-09-14-07-32.PNG" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJwMzAK0yp-G5FcvmcV_IMcjRvO5cWP91nRhHaf60RKvCSTyp2Owqx2PuWiPgcSQyZvPUSFiPNSnQc39OYceizXOvRB31B2657Udp4TCKLolCpEQvE8HT2VJ9bcTWb-RyduW_GUVp-WnEg/" width="640" /><br />
And the lake was glistening in the morning sun.<br />
<img alt="IMG_7302-7318-2014-09-14-07-32.png" height="131" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-IlIMN5R0sNU/VBudWgOms8I/AAAAAAAAOOQ/gqVDuuZnVyM/IMG_7302-7318-2014-09-14-07-32.png" width="640" /><br />
<strong>20 Sept</strong><br />
Camped last night in a small reserve at Clements Gap near Crystal Brook. It’s our normal secluded campsite, in a 10 sq km reserve of bushland in a huge arable landscape.<br />
We arrived home knackered just after mid-day and the sun was shining from a clear blue sky and the temperature was around 22º. Good for Adelaide at this time of year but a lot less than we had been experiencing.<br />
We wandered around in a bit of a daze, the garden looked pretty good really (it always does under a clear sunny sky) and not too many weeds.<br />
We did a bit of unloading, a lot of washing and gradually things became more familiar.<br />
Then we were back to normality once again after another good trip.dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-68943519072903592162014-08-12T13:48:00.000+09:302016-06-09T15:18:31.949+09:30Things that went wrong<p>A/Compressor belt.</p><p>Fan hub</p><p>Step bolt</p><p>Snake Tank plate and tap</p><p>Top off waste tank</p><p>Tie wraps</p><p>Coax cable socket</p><p>Front tyre</p><p>Bent ext cooker holder</p><p> </p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-57564958245316886732014-07-22T21:07:00.000+09:302016-06-09T15:17:07.594+09:30test blog<p>wertyui</p><p>jhjhgjhg</p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-61005819364863467442013-12-12T18:59:00.010+10:302014-10-05T15:35:16.811+10:30Another broken spring bolt...<p>Our Oka has been left idle for the past couple of months since returning from our recent trek across the WA deserts.</p><p>But yesterday I removed one of the gas bottles for use at a Christmas BBQ and something around the rear spring looked a bit odd...</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwfi1uYx4gbEuVF0n9gJe2h7L4yh-3h0e5ZXN3c56FRzuDS_Cb3m8Rvb4XErm62YgNygy3n0QMYBZ0s-R4hqWfU4rp-eRnKIEAgTbpDQ7DR5SrqOr-oIN7nq21659uM0TeOrKQF_5gUok/" alt="IMG_3536-2013-12-12-08-29.JPG-2013-12-12-18-59-2013-12-12-18-59.jpg"></p><p style="text-align: center"><em>The rear suspension pin protrudes 50mm, which it shouldn’t</em></p><p>The spring bolt behind the gas bottle is protruding about 50mm whereas it should be flush with the chassis spring mount. The Nyloc nut on the inside of the bolt is still in place so it’s not rocket science to surmise that the bolt is broken in the middle, probably across the grease hole which would be its weakest point.</p><p>Gouges on the side of the gas bottle suggests that the broken bolt was being held in place by the bottle, which is probably better than the bolt falling completely out, but it may have been this way, unnoticed, for quite some time which is a bit of a worry.</p><p>The really strange thing about this event is not that a spring bolt has broken, we’ve experienced a few of those before, but that all spring and tyre related problems have always been on the same wheel, the drivers side rear. That now makes 3 spring bolts, 2 broken springs, a bogging and a tyre staking all on the same corner. What are the chances of that happening? I don’t believe there is anything very different about this corner, the construction and loading is very similar to the opposite side.</p><p>Replacing the bolt is not a major task, I have spares, it’s just a heavy job. The real questions are why and how to prevent future occurrences?</p><p>All other spring bolts apart from the 2 rears have been upgraded to 20mm diameter suspensions pins which are a lot stronger than the original 16mm bolts. These 2 rear bolts had previously been replaced by ultra-strong crankshaft quality 16mm bolts, running in bespoke replaceable bushes, and were claimed to be unbreakable, until now.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUDXoie2syhBVLGVCNvsASGCIiIlDPzIs3HeTjNpt7Hga5bqqJnI8eC1EpZYDu_4bMXuyhn3oKwhgUEjKqUea3ikQ6PVRR5WkRpKWUXd8fFpQLMOR6FMdMv1LRaj55mzDZAm43eBlaFVM/" alt="IMG_0917-2013-12-13-08-29.JPG-2013-12-12-18-59-2013-12-12-18-59.jpg"></p><p style="text-align: center"><em>Replaceable screw in bushes for the previous 16mm rear suspension bolt upgrade</em></p><p>So I shall now upgrade the remaining 2 bolts to 20mm pins, which is not so easy (and the reason why they haven’t been done previously) since the chassis mounts were specifically designed for the replaceable bushes and I’ll have to redesign and reweld them to take 20mm pins. I was going to check and replace the urethane bushes anyway before our next trip.</p><p>I might consider going up market further to the 25mm suspension pins as fitted to the new NT model, (actually the NT pins are 1 inch or 25.4mm diameter). However more thought would be required since the spring eyes are not much more than 25mm anyway, actually around 32mm, which means the wall thickness of the urethane bushes can only be between 3-4mm (the NT pins actually run in steel/phosphor bronze bushes which are only 3mm thick).</p><p>The bolt replacement task is not a huge one and made all the better by the fault being discovered at home rather than on the side of some remote, hot, dusty, insect ridden track like previous similar events.</p><p>Here I have the time, facilities, shelter and materials access to do it at my leisure, all I need is the motivation but they don’t sell that at Bunnings, I know, I asked once which aisle it was in.</p><p>Since starting this article, I’ve replaced the rear suspension pins with high tensile 20mm bolts and fitted bushes to provide a larger surface area for their support.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHS5JrpxfYUEyvchBLdENsIuvA30z3dmS8tdwu2Qz6XjDZuKHztn-5VPkBSjIVaCwaPVcnYQ6_8C66FFqnTo9tWJl2-4EyUrluIvrmS5ZJPidYexION3XQle-J7xCJ_kvXArOWU7ZKRCQ/" alt="IMG_4935-2013-12-12-18-59.JPG-2013-12-12-18-59.jpg"></p><p>To do that I had to drill out the holes in both side plates to 25mm to accept the bushes, which would have been much easier if I had been able to turn the chassis on its side and use my large pedestal drill.</p><p>As it was I had to buy a new larger power drill and go up in size progressively from 20 to 25mm.</p><p>The bushes were fashioned from former Oka suspension bushes, cut to size and drilled out to 20mm to fit the new bolts. I also fitted new urethane bushes although the older softer versions weren’t as worn as I had expected.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS9-p9gNm2XV0nx4uL8WJ-3wBOCT5Diua50dOuDJMwdN-73OQRFfqcH0H9QIHYDEIuPdO_8_fZsDFbrK4f8UCjqzqvoLDjVyMlqoQV9JDz4ClXFFkqIqt-Z57zsN0K9cU7BeeKcu_ncSc/" alt="IMG_4912-2013-12-12-18-59.JPG-2013-12-12-18-59.jpg"></p><p style="text-align: center"><em>This is a simulation of the set up with bushes and thrust washers, and steel samples providing the side plates</em></p><p style="text-align: center"><em>(The previous broken bolt shown for size comparison)</em></p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrWT2qZDOz6R674YGVMZ1cMgClruC-AyFmlCpT1O4zT7DLQZrd05aLA_OtKnZHRduqs12lusfPOQjztXFjRuR38C3ZTz3w0sfot-T2U7vx5VfFU843fzOSfgPYaWLXphyphenhyphenZtFQaddsPK0s/" alt="IMG_4913-2013-12-12-18-59.JPG-2013-12-12-18-59.jpg"></p><p style="text-align: center"><em>The former Oka bushes (R) were 1 inch external diameter but, allowing for some wear, reduced to 25mm quite well to fit the new holes, and when drilled out to 20mm leave adequate sidewall thickness</em></p><p>Because I could only get long enough Class 12.9 bolts in socket head versions I fitted a retaining and anti-rotation wire to their heads.</p><p>Drilling HT steel is not easy and the 3mm drill bit crackled as it went though. Smaller drill sizes just snapped. For good measure I also drilled the threaded end to accept an R pin so the nyloc nut can’t ever come off.</p><p style="text-align: center"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijbLesi3pGeOkfVeQDOGE6V7AEbcLEAgy5IGsQcd_Jkqe37hQhrDQMimi9TGgskyWDAz9gVxLwGvhHfzC2oOdLcWaobLgjGhsXu-J5VVAkirhxZVUa9ROQynO3xnGOc2HhiHASEzqAcbA/" alt="IMG_4942-2013-12-12-18-59.JPG-2013-12-12-18-59.jpg"></p><p>While I had the opportunity, I changed from the lower to upper bolt hole position. This lowers the suspension by around 30mm and allows the airbags to take more of the load levelling task. It also tilts the differential yoke upwards slightly taking some stresses off the UJ.</p><p>All 12 suspension bolts/pins on our Oka are now 20mm HT steel so we should have no more failures of this kind.</p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-3580206719280779582013-12-03T05:37:00.001+10:302015-11-18T06:46:39.133+10:30Stone Strike<p style="text-align: center"><iframe src="//player.vimeo.com/video/80719623?byline=0&portrait=0" width="600" height="338" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p></p></p><p> </p>dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6255508523038088267.post-82523776775584386612013-11-29T18:47:00.091+10:302016-10-03T09:23:08.823+10:30dandjhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12894571230835001260noreply@blogger.com0